Here is a list of all the postings stu knowles has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: First scale build from plans?|
I would take a slightly different tack in that, whatever you build it has to be something that you really like and want to see finished and flying. If your heart isn't in it, it may never get finished.
Second point, a so so model that is finished and flying will motivate you for the next build, whereas there are unfinished master scale models in sheds all over the country.
So I say, pick something that you want to fly, get stuck in and do something every day, get it flown. If you like it, you can always add more detail later.. a scale model is never finished
You don't say which plans you are looking at, If you are thinking warbird with full house gear, go up around 72 to 85 inch span. If you want to go smaller, keep it simple and light, although a warbird with dangly wheels never looks good so retracts are a must.
If you think back through the builds that you have already done, the only difference to a plan build is that you have to cut your own parts. That usually boils down to a set of ribs and a few formers, sort those out before you start and there's not much difference to what you have done before.
Be interested to hear what you go for.... I always think that trawling through lists of plans and making the decision is one of the most pleasureable aspects of building.
|Thread: Serious uncool FPV video in the heart of London|
If laws have been broken, someone will be prosecuted. There is no reason to think that this will have any effect of the rest of us.
Almost anything can be abused and used to break the law. It is the responsibility of the appropriate authorities to take that up with those responsible for the infringement.
People get hurt in cars every day (sadly) - the guilty get punished and the rest carry on with their lives.
I suggest that we do the same.
Move along now, nothing to see here.........
|Thread: PSS A-10 Thunderbolt II - build blog|
Excellent thread Mr Cooke, some good leaning to be had here.
Can I ask how you are cutting your foam, is it bow and templates or do you have something exotic??
Ref the tailplane core, are the 32nd spars let into the core or did you slice the core up and then rebuild it with the ply in place?
Edited By stu knowles on 15/11/2012 13:26:38
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
Mine has an OS 50 two stroke, quite old, (OS Max) with the Flair in cowl silencer.
Standard nose, not extended and no ballast.
If building another I would swop the bolted strut fixings for plug in tubes and use rigging to keep them in place. Anything to make field assembly quicker is worth the investment in build time.
|Thread: Are you still flying entirely on 35MHz?|
when the plane goes into fail safe every now and then, you have a problem.
I had this problem a while ago. couldn't understand it. It turned out to be because I had changed my phone to a Blackberry. I leave it in the car now, - no more problem
|Thread: Stepping stones to large stuff!!|
Good advice already written here. I would also add something like 'Double the size = four times the hassle. Some long time ago, despite being a 'fully fldged modelle'r, I went from 60 size models to a 100 inch, 70cc retract equipped model in one leap. I lost count of the number of times that i took it to the field and either didn't fly because some fault developed, or, when in the air a wheel hung up or fell off!!
The complexity of the Welly will drown you if you arrive at it too soon.
The Wellington uses 26cc motors so i would look for something that uses one of the engines that you will eventually need, get something with retracts & flaps. If you have time, build from a plan, it will be good experience and everything that you do is taking you on a direct path to the ultimate goal.
As for the twin aspect, if they both keep going, flying a twin is no more difficult that a single. You need to know and be confident about operating petrol motors, setting their carbs etc,
|Thread: Slec wood pack TN Typhoon|
36" is the standard wood length. Scarfing to extend would be the usual way
|Thread: Yellow Planes Spitfire MK XIV|
I usually wait for a dry bright day, spray outside and then whip it back in side to a warm workshop.
I'm sure that you could brush paint it but spraying is more likely to end in a satisfactory finish
|Thread: engine choice|
My suggestion would be petrol everytime. Glow motors at this size do tend to drink fuel although often reasonably cheap straight fuel, but the biggest downsize for me is that so much of it ends up as residue all over the model. messy messy messy and sure to kill the airframe in the long run.
Petrol is cheap, clean, doesn't attack the paint, can be just as powerful and quiet.
The airframe that you appear to be considering is plenty big enough to carry a petrol so, (IMHO) it's a no brainer. Just to go against the trend though, I prefer the trusty zenoah mag ignition engines for their simplicity and reliability. most modern petrols inc zenoahs are electronic ignition which is an extra battery to carry and more things to consider if it doesn't start.
If you are going towards 3d flying the Zenoahs are probably too heavy compared to the super small & light DLA/E types
I have a few glow motors for up to 60" span models but for anything larger, -petrol evrey time for me.
Edited By stu knowles on 28/10/2012 10:13:48
Edited By stu knowles on 28/10/2012 10:14:02
|Thread: Tank Size for Evolution 26GT|
Petrol engines are very frugal with fuel as compared to glow motors. A 12oz tank will give a 15min flight and time to spare even if running flat out. If you wanted to be sure try it on a bench using the same tank but I'm sure that you will be surprised.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
There was a foam wing kit of a Lizzie around that span. Never seen one, some had u/c 'issues' but quite a few were sold. Fliteplan Models MoonLizzie or something similar.
Someone on here will know. Model looks nice though
|Thread: Tube Wing Joiners on a Turbulent|
The diameter of the wing tube will be governed by the depth of the wing ribs and what you can get in there comfortably. Although I can't claim to have done this myself, a friend has built a number of split wings using phenolic tubes from Falcon Aviation (other suppliers may exist) The neat trick is to order a set of lightply 'washers' that fit neatly over the outer tube and then to bore a slightly lager hole in the wing rib stack before the wing is built.
Frame up the wing, ribs, spars etc and then finally lock all in place by gluing the washer to the ribs. this gives a bit of manouvering room to get the slignment spot on
I don't know if we are allowed to post links to other forums, if not, the Mods will remove this and I beg forgiveness! This is one of Simons current build threads which shows the process pretty well.
the phonolic tubes are pretty strong in themselves and with the inner alloy tube would be bombproof, however a bigger tube would spread the load better, so my guess would be pick one that fits comfortably within the rib profile without any point being too thin.
Edited By stu knowles on 19/09/2012 10:15:46
Edited By stu knowles on 19/09/2012 10:16:21
Edited By stu knowles on 19/09/2012 10:16:46
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer - Any advice on flying one?|
The Flair Pup is the most friendly, viceless model that you are likely to come across.
CG not critical, somewhere around one third upper wing chord but mine is considerably further back.
Can be flown very slowly, will not stall unless grieviously mishandled, won't tip on on its nose, I can't think of a bad thing to say about it except perhaps that you need a car that will take it ready rigged. Until I took that step, rigging it was a pain.
Mine is prob 15 years old and is still going strong. Thinking about it, there was a guy in my club that couldn't get on with his, made a right dogs breakfast of landing every time but he just couldn't fly slowly, came over the fence at full throttle and crammed it onto the ground but wouldn't do it any other way.Painful to watch.
Mine has the Flair vintage floats as an alternate u/c, flies well off water, great in snow. What more can I say??
Get it flown!
Edited By stu knowles on 19/09/2012 10:01:16
|Thread: Who said IC engines were dead|
Lovely engine - unfortunate choice of model in the circumstances but not much the guy can do about it.
Isn't most of the noise (howl) from the prop tips?
|Thread: Vinyl Cutting|
Very useful link. Perhaps not as easy as first thought.
Found some fonts by googling 'free military fonts' which are useful stencil type fonts which look promising.
Thanks for the pointer
I too have just bought a vinyl cutter, this time a s/h robocutter 200-20. So far I have only used the 'Robomaster' cutting software but it seems to do most everything that I have thouyght of so far.
My main interest is in cutting spray masks. I have done a test cut on letters down to 4mm but found that this is too small really - in the weeding process, the centre of 'D's and 'P's is so small that it is difficult to keep it in place. Larger letters bigger than 10mm seems to be OK (All this based on the massive experience of cutting one single A4 sheet)
I have been working out how many masks would be needed for say a three colour RAF roundel, blue, while and red centre. I'm thinking two?? One for the outer perimeter. spray the centre all white, then drop in a mask to cover what will be the white ring. Mask over the centre hole with tape and paint the blue. Let that dry and mask over everthing except the centre circle and spray red. How does that sound?? anyone see a flaw?
|Thread: Feels like autumn is approaching, what have you been flying?|
This is my treasure from the Nats swopmeet. BUSA DR1 with zenoah 26 which flies very nicely but has shown that it will bite if flown slowly and badly handled. Use of rudder is a must. A fw more handling flights are due before a repaint over the winter. Pic is
from a phone so don't expect too much
I have a 80inch Lancaster which has used pretty standard 'Eurokit' retracts with the legs folding back into the nacelles. They have worked well and must have 50 plus flights on them.
So long as they are reasonable quality retracts and not grossly overstressed, then ordinary retracts turned through 90 degrees will work fine.
|Thread: Delta wing I/C model|
It's a glass finish using pond sealer and then painted. It was a bit of a try out for something else, I wanted to see just how little resin I could get away with and how light it could be done. There are a couple of patches where the cloth wave is still visible but it was a useful exercise.
The colour scheme is taken from the Lancaster Models web site. When you decide to look for a kit If you get no response from the web site then Allan C who contributes knows Wes who produces the kits. I think that it is a bit of a one man band, I had to wait for mine but he did come good and deliver as promised.
If you have an OS FSR in yours I imagine that the performance is similar to mine, PDQ!
Thanks to Al C and this thread I was able to track down a new kit for a 1 metre 'Thing' which I test flew just before the light totally faded last night. It flew well although this is NOT a model for poor light - too small - too fast!!
Mine is slightly over powered with a Leo 37. Its a great all weather flier.
Cheers Al, thanks for the contact
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