Here is a list of all the postings stu knowles has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Depron Spitfire|
Thanks for the update, I look forward to the next instalment.
Where do you source your depron? Is the black any different to white depron??
Any update on this project?? I have been to the LMA Elvington show this weekend and bought several sheets of deppy. I', looking forward to trying ot out.
|Thread: Cosford Car park Fee ??????|
I am not a regular show attendee but if I can only go to one, then the LMA do at Cosford is one not to be missed. Great models being flown, prob the biggest trade prescence after the Nats and the raf museum on site too.
If you don't have a good day out at this one, don't bother ith any of the others!!
|Thread: Another thread on paint|
I have only just happened across this thread and I am intrigued by the use of emulsion paint. I have often read of various American modellers using 'latex' paint, which I take to be emulsion paint of one form or another.
Just to spell it out, when usiing emulsion, do you mean vynil paint?, silk?, matt?? does it matter??
I have got to try this for myself soon.
|Thread: Gorilla Glue for canopies?|
Olly P beat me to it, I've been using UHU,- comes in a yellow box from the pound shops. Can be used as a straight glue or like an impact adhesive. I've just glazed a cockpit which has five separate panels and it has worked really well. Does Depron to
|Thread: Depron Spitfire|
Agreed Toni, I think that this is pioneering stuff - breaking new ground. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I hope to have a go at something similar over the winter this year.
|Thread: Sanwa RD6000 Super Conversion to Frsky 2.4GHz|
While there's nothing wrong with FRsky, why are you considering the change at all??
There was never anything wrong with 35 meg and now that the number of users had diminished, it's even better!! Apart from those who fly at public events, I personally don't see any need to change.
|Thread: HobbyKing UK Open|
The question of certain importers not paying VAT has been raised several times in uk forums. Personally I don't know the facts of the matter but equally, I am sure that if tax avoidance is a possibility, then HMRC will be swift to take action.
To the best of my knowledge, this has never happened and until it does I shall spend my cash with whomever I feel offers the best deal and do so with a clear conscience.
I don't really see why a consumer would be concerned with a company business strategy beyond the obvious assessment of quality, price, fitness for purpose and aftersales care??
Is it just me?
|Thread: Depron Spitfire|
How's it going?????
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis' new Vulcan|
When I see lekky ducted fans I see massive jets outlets which completely alter the look of the thing, plus less thrust and lots of noise.
Small pusher props hidden away in the jet pipes seem more practical and preserve the line of the nose.
I think that it would be a popular model though
|Thread: Fairy Firefly|
The Firefly is a good subject, seldon seen at the field, so if it floats your boats, definately worth building.
You have already built a few models so I would build from the plan, using it as a guide only. If 'twer mine, I would get the plan photocopied a bit bigger, 72 - 80" probably so that it is better able to carry the likely weight, and then I would have a good look at the plan and probably change and simplify the construction methods to arrive at the same result. The only problem about a scale up is the loss of the provided canopy etc, but look at Spits etc of an equivalent size.
Peter Russel, who wrote the 'Straight & Level' column in RCME many moons ago, described the CAP designs as using the 'Don't use one piece of wood if you can get away with thirteen' philosophy, which is probably a fair description. Keep the back end simple and light and you won't go far wrong.
When its done, you will have the great satisfaction of producing a model which has a great deal of you in it, a one off that you will be proud of.
What do you think??
|Thread: Taking the plunge|
Clean it up, maybe take of the backplate and cylinder head and wash well with parrafin if any grit has got inside. (You may find that nothing has got much further than blocking the carb ) and you will most likely find that it will back as good as ever.
As for the wreckage, hard to say without seeing it but I always wait a week or so before having a good look at it. It never seems quite so bad as first thought and is often repairable. I make exception for the super light madels made from laser cut ply which I find very hard to fix becuase they seem to shatter. Balsa built models are easy by comparison.
|Thread: Quarter scale Pup|
Mine had a zenoah 26 in the front, still needed a bit of lead and wasn't overpowered by any means. If I were to build another, my choice would be a zenoah 38.
Each to their own but IMHO these models are better suited to large props and slow revving engines. The 38 is a lovely engine, easy to hand start, no ignition battery to faff with, a perfect choice.
I feel that you are likely to be disappointed with anything less than a 26.
|Thread: Depron Spitfire|
looking really good! I shall be very interested to follow this thread and see how you do it.
retracts & flaps??
|Thread: what cert is needed to fly a turbine solo|
Please don't take offence at what I said and I commend you for seeking to be an Examiner yourself, should you be appointed in due course, you will no doubt see some of the pitfalls of the role.
Your Club Examiner was right to decline to take a test with a model under 1kg. it's in the rules and he has no discretion in the matter. I personally wouldn't read too much into the comment that he made without giving him the opportunity to expand on the matter first.
It is essential for the health of the Achievement Scheme that the standards are applied evenly and fairly but in fairness to Examiners everywhere, it is 'challenging' to have to fail people who clearly HAVE the ability to fly the test succesfully, but simply don't because they have not read the test standards properly and don't deliver what it required. If the standards are not displayed the Examiner must fail the candidate. In the case that you describe, I might consider it reasonable to expect an exemplary display of the A test standards from the Candidate but thats as far as is should go.
All that said, passing either A or B only means that the candidate met the standards at the time of the test, it offers no guarantee at all that further flying will maintain the standard... but it's a start.
It has already been said in this thread that the decision is one for the Club to make as to what it chooses to allow or disallow. You may not like the answer but there it is and thats how it should be.
I don't under stand the reluctance to take and pass the proficiency test, regardless of whether it is the most suitable test or standard to fly jets or any other model, it non the less suggests a level of competence and willingness to acknowldge the wider issues of model flying.
If I were on the Club Committee and faced with the same situation, I would find the unwillingness of the modellers concerned to take the test would probably strengthen my resolve to make gaining a B certificate a prerequisite to flying jets at the field. I would still insist the the Committee retains the right to retain a watch on ALL club members and restrict any who displayed a less then safe standard of model operation.
If any club member finds that they couldn't live with these minimal conditions to ensure the safety of all and good governance of the Club, is suppose the final suggestion would be to ask them to shut the gate behind them on the way out.
Ehh! it's a cruel world
|Thread: East Kirkby LMA Event|
I attended at the Fly In on sunday, - not being a show pilot!, have to say that the LMA organises a good fly in and I had a great day. I always like having the opportunity to have a good gander at other peoples models, ask questions and generally see how other people do things, especially large models beyond the scale of what I normally fly.
I flew the SPAD XIII and the 'other thing which has no name' I was invited to join in the WW1 group fly in which was rather different, I found that I needed eyed everywhere while still keeping an eye on my own.
I felt for the guy with the Mew Gull, it looked really good until the unmentionable happened. I took it to be an ARTF and it rather underlined my predjudices about build quality. Must have been a sickener.
I thought that the large Harvard was very well flown, especially the late flight of the day. Liked the B29 and the DB Hurricane / Z38 combination, never seen a Zenoah 38 fly so fast.... must have been on drugs!
No full size Dak in the pits this year but otherwise a good day out.
Edited By stu knowles on 10/04/2012 21:26:30
|Thread: Tony Major DH Mosquito|
I see that you are using four stroke motors. I use and prefer two stroke types and wont attempt to advise on tuning others.
however, now is a good time to learn how to use and adjust whatever carb you are using. Keep them clean inside, Use good fuel and learn how to adjust them properly. Tweak and try isn't really going to cut it on a twin.
I have built a Me 110 and the Chris Golds Lancaster, all of which used OS 25FP engines and a HP42 with 4 x 46AX engines. None have had a mishap or sustained damage caused by engine failure. In my admittedly, not very extensive multi engine experience, I would say that I have learned one thing above all. That is that a few hundred or even thousand difference in RPM between engines will make very little difference, at worst inducing some yaw, whereas one engine stopped will become critical, sometimes causing uncontrollable yaw and sometimes through inducing Pilot Panic, plain & simple.
I strongly advise you to set up and correctly adjust the carburettor on each engine separately and then LEAVE IT ALONE! any attempt to match or synch rpms using carb mixture adjustment will inevitably lead to engine unreliability.
As for throttle linkage, try to make the links identical. I set mine at full throttle stick to be wide open on the carb, and the rest of the throttle range generally just falls into place.
or opening up the lower end on the rich one an 8th or quarter and then closing the high speed needle so the revs are slightly lower than the right?.
This is the worst idea possible and yet I have seen and had the same suggested to me many times, frequently by people who have no multi experience. Set both high and low needles for optimum running. Full stop.
At the end of the day its your model and your risk but,- think about it, any other method is courting disaster.
Good luck with it,
Edited By stu knowles on 01/04/2012 15:35:39
|Thread: Cutting a thread on piano wire|
You can buy 2mm and 3mm threaded bar in lengths up to 1 metre. Stainless is that bit stiffer if you can get it. You can now cut to any length you wish.
If you want to tidy upo the unused threaded section in the middle, slide on a length of heat shrink tubing / brass or even carbon.
Ebay is one place to look but if you have a fixings supplier nearby it can often be bought over the counter.
I works for me anyway
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