Here is a list of all the postings stu knowles has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Super Star|
The finish looks amazing, what did you use?? I have always lusted after a Pete Russell Striker after seeing on a very early issue of RCM&E (when I was doing battle with a Super 60)
|Thread: Connie are you to much for me?|
A great build, it will fly as good as it looks, brilliant!
|Thread: Unrecognisable ARTFs - new paint jobs!|
looks very nice, What paint did you use?
|Thread: 4.8 v or 6 v receiver battery|
My 4 and 5 cell low discharge AA packs, mainly Vapextec work OK and show a healthy voltage on most checkers. When checked with the Futaba battery checker which checks under a 1 amp load a battery showing 5.1 volt - no load drops to 3.3 under load.
When I eventually decided that it wasn't duff checker I stopped using AA size cells altogether.
Sub C cells are fine or I use LiFe depending on the space available and the need for ballast.
On the other hand, I am sure that there are hundreds of not thousands of models being flown with AA Eneloops.
You pay your money and makes your choice in this game.
|Thread: Hitec anyone else thinking of jumping ship|
Another vote for Fr Sky, even if the TX range did not convince you, the quality, capability and price of the Receivers make it a no brainer.
|Thread: Open tx Horus|
I will do when I get to it Rob, I need a couple of clear hours to sit down and walk it through. 2.2.1 has options for switching telemetry on and off and an updated LUA for the S8R. to be fair, the existing LUA does work on the S8R and it is possible to switch off telemetry using the jumpers when binding.
Like you I'm finding the Horus OTX everything that I expected it would be and just think that getting my head around sorting out the firmware updates for both TX and RX is part of the OTX experience. I would be happy if it was a more settled and simple process.
I would find out why Companion isn't working for you because its very useful and necessary to get the best out of OTX. The easiest place to set up a new model, then upoad. (which IS a very easy click button process) Go fly, adjust at the field and then download and back up. I have done it direct into the TX buts its a slower, less clear process.
I have what looks to be a decent quality USB cable and so far it hasn't given me any trouble. Time will tell if its up to the updating process.
Thanks Chris, I'm reading the notes from the original install and will no doubt have a go later
Hmm, not so straightforward then. I have added a number of model images and sounds that I don't want to loose.
To be honest, this is the worst aspect of FRsky / OTX. I dislike dickin' about with stuff that I don't fully understand. It would be a good development for OTX if they could make this a simple click process. When the Horus was new, I still had my old TX and it didn't matter how long it took to change over the operating system. If I spam this up, or even worse, loose the model settings I'm done flying until its sorted. (long time)
I'm going to do a lot more looking before embarking on this. I need a clear 'spell it out' set of instructions for the whole process before I begin. Thanks Attilo and Andy for taking the trouble to reply, It's much appreciated.
I have my Horus running OTX 2.2.0. In the process of converting from the original operating system I did manage to make it completely inert for a few days before getting it up and running. Very scary at the time!
My first thought was not to mess with it again and when 2.2.1 came along I left it alone. Now the trouble is, those tricky people at OTX keep coming up with clever ideas so, sooner or later you do become convinced that an upgrade is the right thing to do. This will be the first time that I have done an update. No1 priority is not to loose the dozen or so models that I have already programmed in.
I've had a look around the web, there's quite a bit on changing from FOS to OTX but less on just updating to the latest version. Has anyone done this and can point me in the right direction and make me aware of the pitfalls
|Thread: 1/6 Westland Whirlwind|
Looking good! Great choice of prototype
|Thread: French scale from 1999|
I found it more surprising how many were built and flown by Brit modellers
|Thread: Does your club welcome multirotor flying?|
We fly Fixed wing, Helis and Multi rotors, no separation and quite possibly all three together.
|Thread: Peterf's 1/4 scale Falcon Models Tiger Moth|
|Thread: Blackhorse Heinkel He 111|
£59 for the cowl is a stupid price but you don't need any, they will fix up better than new
|Thread: Phil Ramsey 65” Gloster Gladiator Plans Wanted|
Although I am using the original struts, I have a couple that broke the plastic threaded section. I had to cut it off square and then drill and screw in a 4 or 3mm section of studding and then make the 'nut' from a circle of ply with a steel nut epoxied into the centre. I have also replaced the plastic cabanes with alloy struts because they broke in a bit of an arrival.
It's highly unlikely that you will find useable originals, - and it you do, chances are that the plastic will have gone brittle. Time to engage in a bit of lateral thinking and see what you can come up with. To be honest the original equipment was pretty rubbishy so replacing is a better option.
By the by, mine just fits in the car fully assembled so added the rigging wires - one length of wire each side just wrapped around the strut ends and then secured under the top wing. It added to the rigidity of the whole thing enormously
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Hi John, Thanks mate, Hopefully, will get the chance to fly it at one of your open days next year.
The dummy engine is just a photo printed onto paper and stuck onto a ply baffle. The gun is cobbled together from scrap with the barrel shield cut from vinyl and wrapped around clear tube. The little 'gun timing' plate is printed onto decal paper and then applied to a scrap of Litho then stuck to the cowl. I guess that it should be written in Italian but you can't have everything.
The prop is just an oversize flying prop (22x1)0 that has been painted and detailed. The usual prop would be 20x10 but as there is plenty of power the oversize prop has cut the noise considerably and it looks about right
I've got my eye on you!
Edited By stu knowles on 29/11/2017 09:36:31
Ready for next season. This is a 1/3.5 scale Nieuport 24 from the DB Models range. I bought it as a 'Hangar Queen', built & covered with servos out of the Ark and some minor damage. It has been fully refurbed and fitted out, rigging changed to Mick Reeves flat wire and 3mm clevis'. Powered by a Zenoah 38 it wafts along at 1/3 throttle, handles very nicely, with the usual 'doesn't always point in the same direction as it's flying' qualities that are so often linked to WW1 types. The colour scheme is 'drawn from history' in that the Italian roundels and under wing scheme are correct, as is the dragon.... but not necessarily on the same airframe. I was sort of driven into the dragon because I found that the underlying original paint wasn't sound despite being washed down with cellulose thinner. Any application of masking tape lifted off the paint underneath so free hand was the way to go
Edited By stu knowles on 29/11/2017 09:21:12
Edited By stu knowles on 29/11/2017 09:28:38
|Thread: PSS A-10 Thunderbolt II - build blog|
Thanks Phil, I appreciate the response
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