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Member postings for Shane Sunday

Here is a list of all the postings Shane Sunday has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: finishing my BT 61.5 Corsair
29/11/2017 10:50:25

Trevor you are a genius. Although I tried a little experiment on the theme. I took a regular peice of paper and dusted it with clear coat then ran it through the printer twice then allowed it to dry and hit it again with the clear.

Now to cut it out and paste it to the fuselage


28/11/2017 21:59:47

Hey guys I've been putting my little cutter to work. I started out making paint masks from vinyle transfer tape but they didn't work great and anything more tacky than that starts to pull the paint off. So I actually did what I always do and just cut white vinyl for the insignia. I like the look. Now I'm a bit confused how to go forward. I need to make 6 rising sun markers and I don't think at the size they need to be that the knife won't just chew the hell out of the vinyl. I could always try to source some decals from the net but at 62 inch wingspan is she 1/8 scale? I know I could actually try to hand paint them. AAAAARGH!

Anyhow heres a couple pics



photos are from my phone and it's kind of old so they are a bit blurry. sorry guys. I can aford new models but not a new phone. Hahaha

26/11/2017 19:05:13

Hey Trevor like you I too get very impatient at this point and yes I went straight into paint. I was unsure what I wanted to paint her but I knew I didn't wan the same as the big one I have still in the box upstairs. So I searched and searched and finally I think I've decided on either #530 0r #13 both have checkered cowl but 530 has a checkered rudder as well. I do like that #13 has NAVY lettering on her too so still undecided.


When I'm doing a built up structure like this I like to use west systems epoxy and I use 45grm cloth on the bottom with 25grm cloth on the top. I've used PolyC on lots of foam models but I feel this needs the trength and durability epoxy affords. While I have airbrushes for the details nothing beats a rattle can from the automotive shop for shear coverage.

I had thought about getting the laser but I'm waiting for something just a bit more powerful for the machine. A 2watt laser will go through 3mm balsa in about 5 passes and just forget ply. It would be great on depron but I have the hotwire cutting attachment for that and it's sweet. Not to mention a hell of a lot cheaper.

here's a shot of how the corsair sits for now. There's lots more to do but sure it'll get there soon enough. Maybe she'll be up and flying by january when it's balmy and warm here.


Edited By Shane Sunday on 26/11/2017 19:15:30

16/11/2017 22:19:55

Hey Trevor it's good to learn and try new stuff. On the topic of redrawing plans, I use Illustrator. The pen tool is your friend. I'll scan the plans in photoshop, this takes many scans but can be done with excellent results. I line them back up in photoshop and once I'm happy I'll flatten the image and just click and drag it into illustrator. I lock the layer the plan is on and create a new layer to draw upon. I'll use a different colour so I can see what the hell I'm doing.

Tip: replicating any part of the drawing is as simple as click hold ALT and drag.

Tip: Curved edges, using the pen tool click and drag and release when you're happy with the shape.

All programs that are new to us are daunting to start but just hold the mouse over a particular tool and a pop up will tell you what it is. Then just play with it see how it goes.

Tip: Command or CTRL Z. Your best friend. Just undo your mistakes then try again.

Really the pen tool in any drawing program is the main tool. Learn it and there will be no plan you can't recreate.

Boy. What a day! I thought I was going to start painting today as I had it off work but nooooooo! In order to complete the stickers to any form of satisfaction I had to level the bed on my stepcraft machine. I knew it was off a touch but after taking it apart I found that the factory had botched up the bed. It was like a rolling ocean! Anyway I got that done then went back to cutting alluminium foil tape. This was tricky as I needed much wider foil than I had so I used Vinyl transfer tape to stick 2 pieces of foil tape side by side to gain the width needed. Also it seems the best way to affix this to the bed is UHU por or some sticky glue. Otherwise it just snags and ruins your work. Like 6 or seven time before you smarten up and do it right. Then you need to use a knife to pick all the stuff you don't want off the cut. Finally use more Vinyl transfer tape to lift your stickers off the bed and place them onto your model.

It's not perfect but it's better than nothing on there. And it'll show up through the paint.


And this one


This has been so much work BuT I think I've got it down to a science now. A few more things to cut out and add before paint don't plan on going crazy though.

14/11/2017 22:07:04

You were able to cut aluminium with a stanley? Wow that is dedication or is it pig headedness. Haha. I built my BT mustang using mostly depron. It flies really well. Electriflier on these forums has some great ideas for building with depron. What he does with the stuff is like magic. I had considered rebuilding the corsair from depron but I'm a bit pigheaded and don't like to throw stuff away.

Regarding the drag knife. I wrapped some thin piano wire around a drill bit to make my spring. I think I could cut a turn or two off of it in order to allow the knife a little more give. So far I've found cutting "ducting tape" the depth is best at .12 to .15. Cutting speed reduced to 10.

WHat controller are you using? I've got UCCNC.

Best of luck with it. Takes a bit of fiddling but it does work. Next I'm gonna try cutting some solar film. that stuff is thin!

14/11/2017 07:05:24

heres a rough drawing of the drag knife. I hope it helps

dragknife drawing.jpg

13/11/2017 22:14:37

Depron built wings are great. Ive built 4 maybe five wings using depron ribs and sheeted with depron then glassed. They are all brilliant. Lessons learnt though... you're going to need some ply ribs if you're going to have undercaraige. Otherwise build the same as a built up structure. So yeah I plan on building more and more models this way. Also im just a beginner on the lathe too. I'll get you a drawing and you'll see just how simple it really is.

13/11/2017 21:29:14

Hey There Trevor. I can see there are people watching but the odd comment helps to keep interest. So thank you good sir. The drag knife is pretty simple but needed the use of a lathe. Rather than ue the main hole on the stepcraft machine I built the knife to fit the smaller hole on the caraige. I can draw up a sketch and post it here soon. The trickiest part has been getting the cutting depth set just right. I use depron as a sacrifice layer and tape my material down to it. This helps to keep the blade sharpe. I also slow the machine down to 20%. I'm still working on it little by little but each new invention takes time from actually building and doing. Aw well once this tool is sorted it'll help with all future builds.

Thanks for looking in

11/11/2017 07:06:40

Hey guys. I've been wanting to start painting this bird but t just needed some details. Like I've said before this is going to be stand off scale but I still wanted to add a little something. I didn't want to go through all the work of building up panel lines the way some of the great master builders do it. I've never tried it and I know i'd botch it up. So my idea is to use Ducting tape. It's a very sticky foil tape that is thin and light. So I needed a drag knife for the CNC machine which I made on the lathe. It's simple enough. The factory bought ones are £100 plus and mine cost me £7.00 the cost of new blades. Basically it's an aluminium bar milled to shape with a 2mm hole drilled to accept the blade then a 6mm hole drilled to accept a magnet and spring with an end cap. I milled this last bit too much therefore the black tape. Lastly an O ring just to snug everything up. Once I'd got the cutting depth sorted I redrew the details in illustrator and sent it to the machine to cut. Works a treat.

drag knife 2


sorry the images are on their sides.

drag knife1

27/10/2017 10:39:42

Well the lite span showed up and I've been working away. Covering is time consuming and a PINA! I've also located my fake radial. I thought I'd lost it.




22/10/2017 22:04:31

been puttering along here and there. Turns out I don't have enough litespan to cover the fuselage. Waiting on delivery. While ivd been waiting I've tried to sort a way to mount the cowl. I made 3 brackets from aluminium, epoxied hard balsa to each peice and soaked them with CA. Getting the right nose length that looked good was tough. Lots of eyballing.


Side shot



Ive also aded a bit of trength to the vert stab befor covering. Now waiting on that lite span



Thread: Novice Build
15/10/2017 23:01:45

As far forward as possible. Ive only once had to place a battery on the CG. Most of the time you need nose weight. Just make sure your battery retention allows you to adjust by an inch or more back anf forth. The build looks good and much better thamost novices. Keep up the good work

Thread: finishing my BT 61.5 Corsair
15/10/2017 22:35:22

As promised. It's been quiet the past few days and I've got some work done. I had decided ithat micro ballons was the way forward and a tub of the stuff cost me 15 quid for a fair amount. I then mixed up west systems slow cure epoxy and microbaloons to get a thick paste, lay cling film ontop of the wing, attach the fuselage and squeesed the paste in between the wing and the fuselage to close the gap on the wing seat. Sorry no photos.

I then went to work on the cowl. The plan has the shapes for the flaps on the cowl, which ive lost a few peices over the years with moving. So witht the remaining few I rumaged through my junk to find scraps of litho plate and cut out some more. Using CA to afix to the cowl I managed to glue thumb and forefinger to it as well. That slowed things down. But this time I followed intruction better and used a glass cloth and epoxy bandage to weld everything in place. I seem to have learned with age.


im covering this model with LITESPAN. Its light, paintable, light and I have a bunch of It. Unfortunately its red. But iit's paintable. And im noth the greatest at covering. Its also a slow process due to the fact you have to put balsa lock down first as well as on any over lapping peices as well. Which requires 15 mins to dry. So forward planing is a must with this stuff.


Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
13/10/2017 23:36:41

Almost finished my LX A10 thunderbolt. Bought as a kit from jepe jets. Twin wemo mini fan v2 with dr madthrust 2200kv inrunners. Stock retracts (we'll see if the hold up) fully glassed and CF tow reinforced wing. Fuse bottom has been glassed and the rest id cloth and water based polyC. Lipo will be a 6s 5000mah 65c graphine. Lets hope it flies.

Had this kit for 4 years it was about time I built it.

13/10/2017 23:27:40


Edited By Shane Sunday on 13/10/2017 23:28:54

13/10/2017 23:15:31

Not a heli guy but thats class!

Thread: converting paper plans to CAD files
13/10/2017 22:59:33

You dont really need CAD fikes for most of these guys. Lots of them can work from adigital copy of your plan. If you have a scanner at home you can scan your plan. Youll need a photo editing program. If your parts are too large for your scanner make registration marks on your plan, fold so that it fits your scanner and join the scanned pages in your photo editing program using your registration marks to line them up. Often they will be able to make CAD drawings from these.

If you've an illustration program like Coreldraw or illustrator and know how to use the pen tool to redraw the scanned images from your photo editing program you can redraw over the plan, save as an EPS file and send that over to the laser cutting company which will make the job easier for them. It could be cheaper for you too. Just remember to include job measurments in the message.

Hope this helps

Thread: finishing my BT 61.5 Corsair
11/10/2017 10:41:42

Hey folks. Last post was back in January. boy is this build trudging along. But I'm back at it again expect to see some new photos soon. THis thing will get done yet!

Thread: Tell us about your most embarrassing stories from the field...
15/05/2017 00:15:04

i'd built, repaired and set up 3 models for nigh on a month waiting for the weather to change. FINALLY THE DAY CAME. Sunday bright, dry and calm perfect conditions. loaded the car and the patner and i headed 45 mins to the field. She dropped me off and I started to get ready only to find i'd left my trany at home. Called my partner and bless her she brought it all the way back out. I felt about 6 inches tall.

Thread: Making them light
07/05/2017 22:58:30

I've built Tony's 46 Spitfire twice now. I've started his FW190 and I've crashed destroying his mustang and the one thing I could never figure out was how to get them as light as Tony has them on his plans. Until now. I don't think I'll finish the 190 instead I'll start again. the original Spitfire torqued like crazy and was a heffer. So how do you build them as light as Tony? You build them from mixed media AKA Depron, balsa, plywood and glass cloth epoxy finish. Do this and you can get closer to the original. My latest Tony Nijhuis 46 Spitfire finaly came at 1lb 13oz with 4s 2450 mah lipo.

I say this with tongue and cheek obviously but I've this time managed to build a TN model in and around to the original flying weight and I'm happy to say she flew beautifully today off a dolly. this is the first time i've been able to fly this model after 2 builds. I'm extremely pleased and I'll post some pics soon as. She required a little down trim and 3 clicks of right but then she was right as rain. Great in the air and so smooth to fly. Unfortunately a three blade prop on a belly lander is prone to breakage. So it's onto a 2 blade prop and new spinner.

This is a great flying Model Thanks Tony.

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