Here is a list of all the postings Shane Sunday has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: finishing my BT 61.5 Corsair|
Today I got stuck in geI've daythe retract right. I'd thought 2 retract supports weren't really enough so a third was cut and all of wich had been tacked in place.
i also felt that this needed strengthening with the use of a false leading edge. This will aslo add another surface to glue the retract bearers to.
im all out of triangle stock but also felt the balsa bearers would add strength. I could be over engineering this thing but i'd like toerror on the side of caution.
finally a pic of the retracts in place
it doesn't look like ive got much done but theres Been a heck of a lot of head scratching
Hello folks. Ive been working on this project for some 5 years now. It's Brian Taylors 61.5 Corsair and the project was put on hold I think mainly due to my experience and ability. The plan has always been to go electric but as well to introduce retracts into a wing designed for static struts. This is where I stumbled. While ive stuck with the same idea's I've found a better way to reproduce and hopefully enhance those ideas. Im also hopeing that those builders on this forum will chime in and let me know where I could improve. I've used my stepcraft CNC machine to cut the ribs and wing braces, illustrator to redraw from the plans and photoshop to scan and line up the wing ribs. The images show what ive come up with after a few evenings work. Im looking to distribute the loads of the retracts as well as maintain strength in the wing. The wing "jig" is slotted as are the ribs. I still plan on wing spars extending out to the wing tips although from rib 6 on they will be depron. The sheeting will be depron as well as glass cloth and west systems epoxy. But I'm getting ahead of myself. First thing is to get the retract mounting correct.
please excuse the mess... the maid quit.
|Thread: Scratchbuild 84" Depron DH Mosquito|
About Time! That's fantastic I knew it would fly well. Brilliant to see the wooden wonder ( cough) take to the sky's. She looks even better in the air than she does on the ground. super chuffed for you.
|Thread: Scratchbuild 84" Depron Vulcan Pusher|
most impressive. Now lets see it fly. quite yer stalling get on with it man! HAhahaha. Should fly well looking forward to the maiden. Quick question for you. What lipos do you plan on using? I've got Turnigy and nano tech my opinion is they are both crap and won't balance properly. So I'm on the look out for some quality lipos.
|Thread: Step craft CNC machine|
I'm sorry. I didn't answeryour question earlier because I'm cutting depron. Im unsure what Elapor is. I haven't used the hotwire on the CNC machine because I've not come up with a satisfactory way to secure it. So yes ive milled all of my depron parts so far. Depron is a close cell tight foam unlike epo or eps foams. I use a 1mm fish tail down cut spiral mill. The down cut spiral rotates the material downwards reducing the dust created. An upcut would be used for harder materials where you want the material out of the cut such as aluminium and the like. Hope this helps
I'd wanted to build a micro model because the weather is so crap and maybe I can start some indoor flying. So i sat down to an old Veron model but an hour into cutting the peices and breaking them I decided I could make this thing bigger, lighter and easier out of depron. So into the scanner and computer. An hour or so of drawing, a few momments in Cut2D and 12min cutting on the machine.
weight so far is 17grams. with internals it's 29.
what a heffer
Hello Trevor. I don't know any of the programs you are using but as long as they can make a vector graphic then you are part of the way there. I think as Herri says the DEv upgrade may produce Gcode? I am unsure though. If it does produce Gcode then the program that you will need is a CNC controller such as MACH3 or UCCNC.
I think the CNC machine does cut the building time down.It certainly makes perfect peices and readily duplicates them at will. I've not played with the 3D side of things or the laser but they can all be added to the machine. I'm cutting ply and depron and I plan on cutting some aluminium soon as well. Herri has been doing great hings with his and i'm just loving mine. I keep finding new things to do with it. It's just a great builders tool.
|Thread: Tow Tug - first CAD/CNC Project|
Ive a separate machine plotter cutter but was wondering if it might be possible to get tge cutter to work on my stepcraft machine? Whats your cutting depth when using it? I cut som 3.5 mm ply tonight, must have been 52 cuts usinf 1.5 fluted end mill and 2 passes each piece. Took 36 mins too. Your build has given me more ideas and ways of using the machine. Those wing ribs look fantastic.
your build is brilliant sir! your use of the Stepcraft machine just amazes me. Don't you just love the instanttaneous output of parts and gadgets at your finger? All you have to do is think of what you need and you can have it within the hour most time. please do post more.
Edited By Shane Sunday on 05/02/2016 13:26:39
|Thread: What sport model build?|
|Thread: Step craft CNC machine|
Well I said I would try to upload some video but at the moment im waiting a new battery for the gopro and it has been a while since I've updated the thread. Ive cut a few things over the past few days. The image above of the jet I had planned to use as templates for hotwire cutting a tetris style build. I purchase a while ago some formica sheet as its super hard and keeps a sharp edge which is best when using a hotwire. The templates came out perfect and now I'm waiting for my foam. The machine comes with 2 rails which 3 hex bolts are used in each to hold your material down. I've heard tell of people using 3M spray glue for somethings like balsa but I couldn't be bothered. So the 2 rails and a couple weights is what I use to keep my stuff in place.
So, while I await my foam I've decided to build Steve Shumates Tomcat, its a pusher prop jet with a variable swept wing. My problem in the past is that I'm not deft with the blade and important things like elevator mounting holes dont always line up throwing things off just enough to be anoying. So ive redrawn it in illustrator, refit on many pages which are 400X300 and set to work preparing my kit. Things needed cutting down then reglued together when cut but... every peice is exactly the right size, holes in the exact location they're supposed to be and when you need two of the same part all I have to do is cut a peice of depron to size, clamp in the machine and hit start cycle.
Here's a couple pics
Edited By Shane Sunday on 31/01/2016 22:42:34
I'll be getting to that shortly. Back to UCCNC so above we have the main page. In an ideal world we pess start and away it goes but it isnt. Thankfully its not very difficult at all. If we move our mouse to the far left of the screen this pop up menu shows up and from here we can manually JOG our machine to where we would like the XY and Z axis to start, namely center. Jog feed is the speed the machine moves at. And the arrows right and left move the X axis while the up and down arrown move the Y axis. The set of arrows off tonthe right hand side are for the Z axis up and down. I dont know what the rest of them do.
down the right hand side of the screen we have the start cycle, pause and stop cycle. Home all will immediately move the machine to the limits Nd is used for initial setups.Sometimes an emergency will happen either youve gonetoo far and the machine cannot recognize something and yoyou'll have to hit reset before you can start again.
In the middle left we have zero all.i use the Iindividual zero points zll the time. Once youve got your material locked in the machine you need to JOG the machine to zero or center. Once done we hit the individual zero point. X and Y are easy but Z needs a bit more caution. You neec to bring Z down slowly so adjust the jog feed. In the image above I've it set a 10 and that is manageable. Get a peice of paper under your cutter and when you can only just not move the paper thats your Z zero point, set that then raise the Z axis a centimeter or so. Now the machine knows where to start. Obviously you've already opened your file before you've gone yhrough all this and you can turn on your dremeland press start cycle. Sure that was easy right? Next instalment ill actually cut something and maybe get some video. Thanks for hanging in there guys
Edited By Shane Sunday on 27/01/2016 23:11:37
That is Correct Simon. Once you've set all the orientation parameters as well as the cutting paths then you save it all as a MACH3 file in the drop down menu and open it all up in UCCNC.
So everyone has been following along and I thank you for bearing with me. Now we open UCCNC. You will need to download the settings for your stepcraft machine to let the program know the constrains. I did but this wasn't withought it's problems. Like I said this thread is to let people know what I did to get it working for me and to help you demistify CNC.
here is the main page of the program.
Gotta work I'll add more in a bit.
Good morning Simon. Aw wow know CAD is such a bonus. You coukd skip to a 3D program and still use that to cut 2D pieces as well. Unfortunately you will have to purchase a program to turn your DXF files into GCODE and thats what CUT2D does. So while knowing CAD is awsome you will still need 2 other programs.
AVC you tottaly have to purchase one! This could be used in shop class, art class and just for being class. Its a tax write off for you.
Sorry AVC the program that came with the machine was winpcnc. I thought it was horrible. I purchased CUT2D and UCCNC from stoneycnc.all told I think I spent 1200 quid when I thought I was only going to spend 800 or so. This seems like an awful lot of money for a work top machine but just consider the actual cost of just one of our beloved models. To me its a no brainer
Alright AVC I've been able to import PDF files into cut2D but it looks like you eill have to learn their drawing tools. The good news is that you could skip illustrator or Coreldraw and just use their tools. I gave it a go and it looks as though the tools are self explanatory. So that could be an option. It;s one less program to buy and learn.
unfortunately it never is that easy. but I'll give it a go at home and see what happens because that's a grea question. My feeling is that you can import the pdf file but have to redraw it in cut2d. but I'll see for you.
I'm going to back track here to be a little more helpful and hopefully a little more clear. Bellow is a screen shot of illustrator with the tool bar on the left. black arrow is the move tool which selects the entire object. next is the white arrow which selects part of an object allowing you to edit just that section. I don't generally use the next 2 but the PEN tool is the most important for redrawing your plan. it has a drop down of it's own that can add anker points or remove them and then there is the sideways V which allows you to edit an ancker point. play with these and get to know them. Click and drag the pen tool to create curved lines and use the sideways V to adjust those curved lines. lets go down to the rectangle which also has a drop down menu that has a loop tool. These are great for creating fast shapes. you can draw from the center by holding the SHIFT and CTRL key while you click and drag the shape to size. Adversely you can double click on the page and just type in the size you need if you know the measurements. lets skip the next 4 tools and get down to the rotate tool which has a drop down menu that has the reflect tool. both are great useful tools so play with them. The next one is the SCALE tool does what it says on the tin.skip a few and go down to the eye dropper tool. I don't use this much at all but it's drop down tool has a ruler that I've found is invaluable. Just click and drag to measure an object. The units will come up either on the top bar or in the upper right hand corner of the screen.
Ok Rather than me fudging my way through and perhaps confusing the matter here is a link to a getting started with CUT2D pdf file. It goes through the basics of useing the program and covers everything I used to get me started. It truely is indespensable.
honestly it is so easy. It's a bit more difficult finding info on UCCNC so I will go through the things I did to getting my controller working for me.
Edited By Shane Sunday on 26/01/2016 11:04:42
Im sorry guys I keep getting pulled away with parenting issues in the middle of a thought or sentence. Am I going into too much detail? Is this making any sense? I'm not too good at these things. You know making build / info threads.
I look through the many build logs of all the people on these forums and the wonderful works of art that have been created just blow me away. This also leads me to believe that any one of you can build the machine. Hell if I can do it then so can you. So I don't feel much of a need to go through the process here but mix with the fact that there is so much support online via youtube and just regular searches you don't really need my help.
What I do want to shed a bit more light on are the programs. These are the things people find daunting, or maybe the price, but lets just say you're going to get one no matter what the cost but just needed help making some kind of informed decision on what else is needed. now you can get an older version of illustrator online for around £100. You don't need all it's functions but you do need a handfull of it's tools and once you play around with them a little it becomes easier and easier to do. I scan my plans on my desktop scaner/printer and open them in illustrator. I'll use the measuring tool to make sure I have the right size or you can enlarge or reduce if you like too. Once in illustrator and sized you can then use the pen tool to trace around your plan. There are other tools like the loop tool and the marquise tools to help with this as well. Try it out play with it and have fun. Whne you're happy with your drawing Obviously save it but you can also open up a new page which I like to make 400X300mm to help me orient things on the machine. I'll then copy and past parts of the plan on this new page and when I'm happy I'll save it as an EPS file and save as an older illustrator 3 compatable otherwise the cut 2D program may have trouble understanding your file.
CUT 2D is a wonderful and very simple to use Gcode generating program. In Cut2D you set the material depth orientation top or bottom of material as well as orientation of the XYZ axis which I like to chose center just because then I know exacty where I am all the time. Initially I didn't know where the front of the machine was located on the program so center seemed to be best. After you've done this you can then select and alterter any piece you like within your drawing. Heck Cut2D has some basic drawing and lettering tools of it's own. So lets say you selected an object lets say its a firewall. well you've drawn your firewall with mounting holes in the perfect spot and you want those cut first. you can selct those holes and cut them first, telling the proram weather to cut to the right or on or to the left of the line. there are tutorials online that will be able to get you started. Rather than go through every little bit. next you selct the the firewall itself and again tell the program how deap to cut where to cut also
Edited By Shane Sunday on 25/01/2016 19:38:46
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