Here is a list of all the postings Richard scarborough has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Hi Redex, I use two 5s batteries in series. 5000 mah. The motor is a Turnigy sk3 6364 - 245 kv, esc is Turnigy Dlux 120 amp.
|Thread: Transavia Airtruk|
John, the photo was taken in Tasmania, Australia. Engine failure and subsequent forced landing account for the gorse wrapped around the aircraft. Apart from crop dusting - top dressing these aircraft were also used by the forestry dept for aerial seeding.
The model is built from a short kit by Laser Design Services in the USA. The tail booms are a built up construction of all balsa except for two carbon fibre tubes in each for the pushrods to run in, that also gives some additional strength. The outer skin is 2mm balsa, wetted and wrapped round a broomstick then left to dry. All up weight is 2.5 Kg.
It's quite an easy model to fly, just a bit lively! Flying it in a scale manner just requires a series of very low passes although it is quite happy with loops, rolls etc.
I took my model to scale day at my club here in Australia, where the full size Airtruks were manufactured, no one knew what it was either!
Hi Peter, Power will be an electric set up, somewhere around 2500 W should do the job. The model as it is at the moment weighs 1.8 Kg, it will be interesting to see what the flying weight ends up at. If it flies as well as the little one I will be very happy!
Edited By Richard scarborough on 15/12/2014 08:33:59
|Thread: Transavia Airtruk|
|Thread: Ask..Peter Miller|
Hi Peter, Been flying oodalaly for over six months now, what a fantastic little plane! It has become my most flown model recently. I have had the plan enlarged by 50%, should give a wingspan of 80 inches. Apart from the obvious things like using different wood sizes and so forth, can you see any problems with enlarging to this size? If I can keep the weight to about 10 lb, the wing loading should be close to 20 oz/ft. any thoughts would be appreciated.
|Thread: rarely modelled aircraft|
|Thread: RCM&E September 2013 Issue is here and it's still July!!|
It looks like 'The Whittaker' is having difficulty with simple digit extraction!
I, too have been searching for the downloadable dash board dials, can't see them either!
Andrew, I made the cowl in the same way as shown on page 7, 3/8" sheet for the top & sides, 1/2" sheet for the bottom. 3/4" triangle balsa is glued to the 4 corners inside. Think of it as a tapered box. Once you have glued the nose ring in place, plane and sand it to the profile on the plan. I hope this is of some help. Cheers, Richard.
Hi Peter, Oodalally had it's maiden flight today, no nasty surprises on take off, just a few clicks of trim here and there and all's well. Originally I intended to use a 3s LiPo battery, 1000kv motor and 12x6 prop but the battery wasn't heavy enough, so I put a 4s 3300 in it. That got the C of G almost spot on. This is a lovely little model, not hard to fly and quite quick. I wonder what might happen with a 12x8, I know there's one around here somewhere. Cheers Richard.
|Thread: Harvard build help|
Hi Darryl, Mechanical retracts sound like the way to go, I used E-Flite 60 - 120 size electric units which do fit, but only just. Because the legs are quite short, bending them to fit inside the wheel meant they would hit the end of the retract body, no matter how tight I made the bends.So they fit on the outside. When it's in the air you can't tell. Cheers Richard.
Hi Darryl, Sounds like you have the stepped LE worked out. There's no need to stick rigidly to the plan in areas like this, as long as you get the desired result in the end. I used an electric set up in my model, Turnigy G60 -500Kv (supposed to be .60 2 stroke equivalent), with a 14x7 prop gives more than adequate performance. Flying weight is 4.4 Kg (includes 300g of lead in nose). Using the heaviest motor you can fit will probably save some lead. Tony used an ASP .91 and still needed 113g of weight in the cowl area. Cheers, Richard.
Hi Darryl, I have built one of these models so maybe I can help. From memory there is no bridging piece between W2 & W3, just the block, LE1. 12 mm is not wide enough, I glued 2 bits of balsa together to make the block the same width as the inner leading edge. I think I did the same with LE2. The front edge of LE1 should be flush with the outer face of inner leading edge, where it is glued to W2. As for the skin, yes it has a sort of compound curve. Insetad of trying to sheet this area in one piece, try planking it with strips about 15mm wide. It's one of those fiddly areas but it does work out ok. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on with it, cheers Richard.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis Harvard|
Finally got to fly the Harvard on Sunday! (selling house and moving got in the way) None of the 100 things that could go wrong did. I'm extremely pleased with this model, it flys really well, good roll rate. loops are best kept big, it will flick out of a tight loop - to be expected? It is also quite fast. The reccomended power for electric set up is around 800 watts. 1200 watts is heaps. If anybody is thinking of building a Tony Nijhuis Harvard, do it, you won't be disappointed. Cheers, Richard
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