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Member postings for pete taylor

Here is a list of all the postings pete taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Brown Paper on a foamie.
01/01/2017 19:21:43

PM sent

Thread: Malyan M180 3D Printer Thread
18/12/2016 21:55:54

You're welcome.

The only software you need to download is Cura (converts the STL file into G Code, a sliced model for printing the layers) which is available for Mac and windows, so I don't see any problems Colin.

The printer itself runs totally independently from the pc (another bonus with the M150) only needing the SD card with the G Code files.

18/12/2016 18:41:21

Fear not!

Here's a simple guide that I wrote for someone just starting. It's for the Malyan M150, but the principles apply just the same.

For anyone wondering which printer to start with, the M150 is probably the simplest and has one of the largest print beds (always handy) as well as being one of the cheapest.

Unless you intent to get into simultaneous multiple filament type and/or colour printing it's best to stick with a single extruder model imho.

Anyway, here's the guide:

Simple 3D Printing Guide for Malyan M150 (aka Prusa i3 & Wanhao Duplicator i3)

1 Assemble printer frame and check that everything moves freely.

2 Apply included tape sheet to aluminium printer bed (improves print adhesion)

3 Move nozzle manually to one corner of the bed and lower the tip so that it just touched the surface. Lower the corner of the bed so that a single thickness of A4 paper just passes between the gap. Repeat for all 4 corners and double-check at the middle of the print bed. Nozzle can be moved by pressing the control button to enter the menu and scrolling to CONTROL to manually adjust the X, Y & Z axis.

4 Adjust AUTOHOME point to the front, LH corner as viewed from the front of the machine.

5 Load filament into the top of extruder by depressing the spring loaded lever on the top - this part can be awkward, so be patient and ensure that the filament has gone straight down into the nozzle and not off to one side.

6 Insert the micro SD card into the slot (it goes in with the gold contacts facing up,) then use the menu knob to scroll down to PRINT FROM SD CARD (it may ask you to refresh, in which case just press the knob to enter) and choose either the calibration cube if present or the mouse (looks like house on the LCD screen!)

7 Sit back and watch!


The normal process for making a print is:

1. Download a suitable file from Thingiverse/Tinkercad etc. (these are usually in STL format)

2. Upload the file into the CURA slicer programme to add the printer settings (stored as a default profile in the programme once downloaded)

3. Save the resulting G-Code file to the micro SD card for loading into the printer.


There are one or two settings worth noting with this printer:

Nozzle temp for PLA should be 190~210°C

Bed temp can be left off, but quite often 30~60°C allows better adhesion. This is really a "suck it and see" thing.

Print speed can be set at 120% without anything becoming over-excited, to effectively reduce printing time on longer prints.





Finally, a review of the M150:


Thread: U-2 Dragon Lady
14/12/2016 19:11:45
Posted by Matt Jones on 14/12/2016 17:58:37:
Those that can, build from wood. Those that can't, pay someone to cut foam for them.

Foam is for pizza bases and washing machine packaging only.

12/12/2016 20:39:21

I know a man who can!

He's away at the moment, but I'll ask him for a price as soon as he returns.

He kits the Canberra in my avatar, and we've been discussing the U-2 for a while so the drawings are quite advanced.

I'll drop you a pm as soon as I know.


12/12/2016 19:40:46
I haven't got a quote yet Chris, but I'm leaning towards blue foam wings with hardwood leading and trailing edges and a carbon/balsa spar arrangement. This would be finished with the brown paper and pva method.
Light, strong and fairly cheap!
11/12/2016 10:07:02
Spookily enough, I've been pondering this plan, but for a 90mm edf unit.
Carbon tube wing and tail joiners are almost a given these days, but the wing section has a few possibilities.
The section that I'm planning to use is MH32 fo and it's all round performance.
Any observations will be gratefully received.
Thread: Green Air Designs Vulcan
05/12/2016 22:47:04

Hi Adrian,

The Vulcan is now made by the designer, Jim Gordon of Jim's Jets. I know as I've got one on the way!

If it flies as well as the Canberra from the same stable it'll be brilliant.

Contact Jim via the website and he'll get back pretty quickly with a firm delivery date, but bear in mind that each kit is made to order, so a 2~3 week lead time is usually quoted.

You won't be disappointed! wink

Thread: Show Us Your 3D Prints
23/11/2016 19:38:50

Thanks Rez, that's really useful!

Can I be cheeky and ask if you have the files for the Tornado exhausts available to share? I understand perfectly if you don't, but they'd be great in the tail end of my new EE Lightning!

Cheers, Pete

Thread: hobbyking - big changes
23/11/2016 10:01:02
Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 23/11/2016 09:56:23:

Ah - but two steps forward - one step back.

As I mentioned above I purchased some batteries last week - it went quite well. It was accompanied by the usual 4-5 emails thanking me for my order, confirming my order, telling me the check robot likes my order, etc. etc. Batteries arrived in 36 hours - great!

Today an email arrived - thanking me for my order,....yes, the same order,...Mmmm? Are we "starting over" - if so I don't want another batch of those batteries - I mean they're fine - I just don't need 12 of them!


I've been getting confirmation emails days after the event too with nothing else subsequently arriving, so I guess it's just another foible of the new site.

23/11/2016 09:45:26

Progress!... The warehouse filters are there again, so I don't have to see what I can't get locally! yes

Thread: Show Us Your 3D Prints
22/11/2016 08:44:52

Wow Rez! Superb

You should make these available for the masses wink

Thread: hobbyking - big changes
14/11/2016 08:48:44
Posted by Daren Graham - Cambria Funfighters on 13/11/2016 19:40:53:

I've also been around the trade side of the hobby long enough to know the 99% of rumours are based on.......eerrrmm well hot air mostly.


13/11/2016 19:33:10
Posted by Daren Graham - Cambria Funfighters on 13/11/2016 17:00:09:

Hey guys, It is worth noting that many HK products are available from Rapid RC. Rapid aren't connected in any way to HK except to say that they both get products from the same place. They are UK based and great to deal with. and no I dont work for them before you ask laugh

I seem to recall someone telling me at a show somewhere that Rapid RC buy their stuff from HK. They spotted the Rapid RC guys loading their truck with heaps of goodies at the UK warehouse, while they were picking up an order apparently. dont know

Edited By pete taylor on 13/11/2016 19:33:40

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
25/10/2016 11:49:39
Posted by Peter Miller on 25/10/2016 11:47:17:

No dusting Peter?

Restricted to glider towing and video duties for now wink

25/10/2016 11:12:42

H9 PawneeH9 PawneeLatest utility model - H9 Piper Pawnee. All electric with 1/4 scale Cub working u/c and sprung tail wheel. 9 mins+ flight time on a 6 cell 4000mAh LiPo.H9 Pawnee

Thread: Malyan M180 3D Printer Thread
22/10/2016 19:37:46

Posted by leccyflyer on 22/10/2016 10:23:20:

Thanks for the post, that prompted me to hit Buy on one of those, after Umming and aahing over a choice of about four printers for the past few weeks. I have no real need for dual extruders at the moment and that is what settled the issue for now.

You're welcome. I'm sure you won't regret it as these things find more uses as you get used to them.

The biggest issue when starting is getting the print bed level and close enough to the nozzle - it needs to be about a hair's breadth off the actual bed to sort of "squish" the first layer of filament onto the bed so that it sticks. When things start slipping around on the bed during printing, 9 times out of 10 it'll be the bed height at fault!

After that, the only real issue is sorting out the temperature settings for the type of filament you use, so once you find one that you're happy with I would stick to it unless there's a need to use another material. Coloido 1.75mm PLA works well for me.

Perhaps the mods might sort out a forum section for this black art stuff where we can all compare notes?

22/10/2016 19:27:25
Posted by Ian Jones on 21/10/2016 21:38:05:

That's very inspiring Pete, I still have a lot learn but I can appreciate the fathomless extent of what can be achieved.

Are you using CURA (latest 2.n.n)? If so have you been able to get it to print x3g files?

I'm using whichever the latest Cura version is and haven't knowingly used any x3g files, but there are several converter programmes to download for free.

The process that I tend to use is to draw or download what I need into Tinkercad, save the final item to my PC before uploading the file into Cura for slicing and converting to G Code ready to print.

The printing is done from either a PC via USB or, my preferred option as it makes the printer stand-alone, via a micro SD card (the Malyan 150 allows this, not sure about others)

19/10/2016 09:06:21

I haven't tried printing ABS yet Ian as the PLA filament I've been using up to now has seemed quite strong enough.

The M150 is perfectly capable of handling ABS with all of the settings being adjustable beforehand and "on the fly."

I know that ABS is reported to be a bit trickier to use as a heated bed is a must and the nozzle temps are higher. If I get around to using it I'll keep you posted.

All round, I've found 3D printing to be a real advantage when wondering how to produce those tricky parts. So far I've used it for all manner of things from scale gun sights, pilot figures, bespoke control horns, complex hatch covers, intake edges, camera mounts etc, etc. The list just goes on!

Thread: Help with this unknown model
19/10/2016 08:55:14
Posted by Paul Jefferies on 19/10/2016 08:51:06:

I am pretty sure it is a "Hep Cat", designed by Paul Plecan and dating from 1946. The original was a freeflght model and I have a plan of that, however I think this one was built from a Ben Buckle kit.......


It looks as though someone has tried to build a second wing with ailerons but I think I would stick with the simple wing and just rudder/elevator control. 'Fraid I can't advise on electric power, firstly because I don't know much about it but mainly because models like this should ONLY be powered with diesels! I would recommend a Mills 1.3. wink

I'm with Paul on this one. I was thinking Hepcat as I scrolled down and saw his post.

My dad built one many moons ago.

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