Here is a list of all the postings cad has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Safety Switches|
Appreciate the redirection Pete B quite a bit there to chew on. CAD
Thanks for your quick response Masher, Will continue as planned then. Regards CAD
Having only returned to modelling in the last few years I was advised to build in an easily accessible switch to immobilise the motor, ie, not have to fiddle with removing hatches etc to break the battery contact. The method suggested was to extend the negative wire from the esc to the battery via a loop that came external to the fuselage. At this point to introduce a simple ( banana I think it is called) connector, as these can be easily pulled apart. Alternative connectors like Deans or bullet type are a much firmer fit and not always easy to separate. It would appear much easier to have a simple on/off switch fixed externally. More experienced fliers observations would be appreciated. Currently finishing off a Popsie and would like to resolve this issues. Thanks CAD
|Thread: Trim Sealing Iron|
Hello Nigel. I recently purchased through Amazon an iron having seen the thread recommending the type used in making dolls dresses and small clothing items. I returned the iron as i found it only had three settings , off low and high. the low setting shrivelled the covering. the head was also very small although larger ones were available. I replaced it with a Prolux digital which i have used twice with excellent results. I also have used a small travel iron to good effect. only downside was that the sole is thick and will not go into all those small crevices.
|Thread: It's the grand pre-Xmas (better stuff than normal) giveaway!|
Love to start the year a winner please add me.
|Thread: Blackburn B2 - a 30's bipe with a whole lot of shiny bits!|
Once agin impressed by your build blogs, and the draughtmanship in turning a small A4 drawing into large scale plans. There is a photo of two fuselage sections set about the vertical and horizontal axsis. Is there a short answer as to how you use the radial lines to set out the sections. are the lines used to set out the small sectiion from the large one or vice versa? Later photos show what appears to be a hard surfaced work board for building up the wings, not a softer surface to enable you to fix pins more easily. I always find that using hard boards tends to end up with bent pins, and sore fingers.
Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 08/11/2011 12:55:05
|Thread: applying decal lines|
|Thanks Richard, Just used an iron as suggested.|
I am currently finishing and rc glider in red and white, and have a reel of assorted width black stick on lines. I have tried to use these before but found that the ends of the tapes tend to lift . Are these trims supposed to be ironed on or sealed down in any way. Are there any answers in the forum that I have not found.
|Thread: health and safety|
|Hi all who have responded to the question I originally posed. I certainly did not expect to see the response that it has received. It is clear that there are many different opinions but the overall message is.... be sensible. Perhaps we should now terminate the thread or retitle it into "the model flying doctor"|
|Thread: wing weight|
|Thanks Simon and Gary for the comments, I can see that balsa quality is more important than `i thought|
thanks for the comment. I am building a self designed glider two channel rc. Span 60". Wings are 48 and 54 grams respectively uncovered so that would not appear to an issue.
do members weigh the wings of any model they are building prior to applying the covering, as at this stage it is still possible to sand away the weight difference. At what span does a gram or two difference become critical?
|Thread: health and safety|
An interesting response. I know we can all joke about health and safety but seriously it is an issue that should not ignored, as david 7 points out in industry the penalties for non compliance can be severe. Our modeling workbase is no different to a place of work. I wonder how many have got the scars to prove it. Think what it might be like if we had to wear butchers fine chain mail gloves to use the sharp craft knives!
A topic not to dwell on but really to say just take care. Not sure that if the worst came to the worst my better half would make the ideal assistant holding the balsa whilst i cut out the formers left handed!
having returned to building after many years, I have read with interest many of the topics on this forum. I have also read several magazine articles on how to build. I have not seen mentioned any concerns or lengths the members go to to avoid the balsa dust when sanding going up you nose and into your lungs. I have noticed my eyes getting itchy, and an increase in sneezing to the extent that I now do most of my major sanding in the garage with the doors open and a mask over my nose. What precautions do the experienced modelers take? How do you guys get on in your tight attic workspaces? I have been surprised how much dust accumulates from shaping a leading edge and wing tips.Is it a health risk ?
Perhaps my name should be changed to coughing billy or runnynose cad
|Thread: Trimming small chuck gliders|
Thanks for your PMs and messages of 22&23rd. I am finding that most articles on trimming are for powered models or at least those with RC. I have just assembled an 18" chuck called the FLICKA, first published in 1959 in the KK handbook as a plan only not a kit.
The original description is interesting " designed on the layout of a fast-climb power model, with short nose moment, long tail moment, rearward CG, to avoid loops on the climb" as for trimming " the stabilizer and fin trailing edges may be bent by gentle pressing with the fingers, meanwhile breathing on the part you wish to bend" !! I suspect i will need to sand a lot more of the fin and tailplane section away to get it to be that manipulative, and didn't appreciate that trimming was that subtle. Flying instructions are also very clear " heave the glider with all your strength in a right hand bank. The flight pattern to aim at is a fast, wide half -loop rolling into upright flight from its inverted position at the top of the climb" Are there any experts out there who can explain how such a manouver is possible simply by chucking this light weight piece of timber with all the strength I can muster?
|think you might be right tom i will change it back and see what happens perhaps. didn't even spell colin right must be my age!!|
Thanks Tom, i have some pics so will load them when i get home. I used a plan off the web to make 4 small gliders for the grandchildren,it should have been 20 inch wing span but photo copied out to about 12 inches. three are ready for repair due to grandads desire to stretch the catapult to the limit. I imagine that the correct size of 20 would be easier to trim too. In fact the children had much better results with slower gentle launches than i did with stetching the elastic to the limit!!!!!
Can anyone give me a steer on how to trim small scale chuck gliders please, also would like to know if there is a correct way to attach larger sets of wings with rubber bands, ie crossed or parallel. thanks
Edited By cad on 19/05/2011 18:30:51
|Thread: Pix - E Major|
Tim, have just posted some photos of my version of your Pixie. Its livery is based on a Auster Tugmaster which I found on the web. Its almost finished.
Having been a bit robust on the front end construction i found that by laying the Li-po flat and fixing with velcro that I could adust its postiion forward or back to fine tune the COG. All up weight is 15, 1/4 ounces. Really enjoyed the build and intend to build a second one with a bit more robust coonstruction,ie slab sided, solid rudder and tail. With detachable wings complete in one piece I am thinking it would make an ideal trainer. I now DO have enough bits in my box to build one for nothing!!. At what weight would you consider uprgading the motor capacity?
Edited By cad on 11/03/2011 18:05:13
Hi Kit just read your concern about fixing the canopy. I used canopy glue as sugggested by Tim having never used it before. I can assure you it does work very very well. I tried instant and balsa glue, with no real success. biut canopy glue sticks like the proverbial. just make sure you have the perspec secured in place with pins or cramps and leave it for at least 12 hours it will be ok.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!