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Member postings for Martyn K

Here is a list of all the postings Martyn K has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: K3736- MkI Fury-Jose L.G.
19/02/2019 20:08:57

Great news Jose

Welcome back


Thread: Colin’s Spanish Fury
19/02/2019 11:45:39

They had to be tweaked Danny .Not too much, once I got one right, I used it as a master I also blocked the hinges in

Can't wait to get started on mine again. It needs some quality time on it.


18/02/2019 21:32:14

I used the same method as on the Chippie 10BA brass bolts in a brass tube bushing to prevent excessive wear I used a ror to align them, this was actually two rods within a shirt length of brass tube at the centre so I could get the rod out after the glue had set


Does that make sense?



Edited By Martyn K on 18/02/2019 21:32:45

18/02/2019 19:20:08

I used the fg hinges Colin .

No problems as I seem to remember


Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
17/02/2019 21:48:21

I had the same problem when building my Foka4. The 10mm joiners just would not fit in the 10mm diameter tube after the spar was assembled I wrapped some 180 grit aluminium oxide paper round the soar, masked up and sanded away Lots of black dust and eventually I ended up with a smooth matt black unidirectional carbon joiner which fitted perfectly It is possible to sand these rods to size Not easy though and the dust is not pleasant



Edited By Martyn K on 17/02/2019 21:48:51

Thread: Glass Slipper 2
15/02/2019 12:23:21

A bit more progress. Only able to do an hour or so in the shed at a time... Had another (much milder) heart attack this week sad

With the wing more or less completed, it's time to set the decalage. I am going for +0.5 degrees but I think I really should have gone a little less than this. I bought this really neat little incidence gauge, it came from Bang Good I think. It seems very accurate. Cost was less that a tenner


So with the model securely fastened and using my home made incidence jig +0.8 for the wing

and the tail


+0.3 = 0.5 degrees decalage. Bang on..

With the wing set, I can then make the upper wing fairing.


Plywood facing and the balsa is 3 pieces of 3/8 sheet sanded to shape

Finally, it looks like this at the moment


This morning I have drilled the access hole to the wing mounting bolt and added a short length of tube to keep the edges nice and neat. Finally added some epoxy and micro balloons to blend in the fairing to wing transition. Just waiting for that to set. Hope to get this finished this weekend.

More to come


Thread: Kwik Fli 40
13/02/2019 09:13:01

Hi Daniel

I have replied by email. For info, the plan downloads are available from here:



Thread: Found you at last
12/02/2019 22:25:37

Hi Mike

Welcome. Its nice and friendly here, dont be afraid of asking for advice. There has been a huge number of developments in the past 40 years or so, its better to ask first than manke some possibly expensive mistakes.

You don't say where you are from, I live up (or down - depending on your perspective) in Cheshire.


Thread: Kwik Fli 40
11/02/2019 22:35:35
Hi Daniel

Yes. No probkems. Can you pm me your email address and I'll send them to you.

Thread: Glass Slipper 2
11/02/2019 09:36:53

Thanks both

Nigel, the drag flaps are (as always) a bit of a compromise. Their real purpose is to slow the model up so I can keep the nose down on approach. I don't want them generating lift, the prime purpose is to add lots of drag. Its predecessor was a real pain when it stalled. Always violently..

I have just taken a simple guess at the size, I have no idea how effective they will be. However, I didn't want them blanking off the tailplane with turbulent air, that limited the width. TBH, I wish I had made them another 20mm deeper with the hinge in about the same place. I don't want them to impact on pitch too much and if I had them protracting more along the upper surface, I would have been more comfortable with them. It will be interesting to see how well they work.

The tailplane is a little larger than normal for a glider of this nature. The idea behind that is to move the NP backwards, this means I can move the CG further back (about 35% MAC) and still maintain stability. By moving the CG back, I can fly the wing at a lower angle of decalage which will hopefully keep it fairly neutral across a range of airspeeds. i.e. prevent it from ballooning. Not sure how well that will work, if its too twitchy and I have to move the CG forward, then I'll take about 50mm off the tailplane span. Easier to take away than add.


10/02/2019 22:33:01

Wings arrived last Thursday. They are rather thin but usable (I hope).

First job was to mark out the areas to be cut away for the ailerons and flaps




Marked top and bottom. A bandsaw was used to cut the cross cuts and a scalpel from both sides for the longitudinal cuts


3/8" square balsa rear to the of the wing along the aileron boundary, 1/4 " Rock hard balsa for the LE of the aiIeron.

The front edge of the flap bay is from 3/8" triangle.


The aileron is very very thin and will need substantial stiffening to prevent flutter


The wing LE is from 1/4" square spruce. This has added an incredible amount of strength.

Gorilla polyurathane glue used for all the wood to foam joints


The TE of the aileron has the last 1/4" replaced with spruce. That, along with the hard balsa LE has stiffened it up sufficiently


Wing tips from 2 laminations of 1/4" sheet balsa. Grain this direction to protect the thin TE of the wing


The flaps were fun. The LE of the flap has triangle section so that when the flap is in the up poistion there is a good air seal between the flap and the wing. The hinge is about 25% of the flap chord, I would have preferred it to be further but the section was too thin.

A 16swg pin runs through the wing and through these bearings - a length of Golden rod inner. The flap and wing carefully measured and drilled and the golden rod glued into place. The pin was then glued (using a thin smear of gorilla glue) into the tube running through the flap.


The flap looks like this in the down position..



in the up position.

Done a bit more today but no photos yet,

More to come


Thread: Elan 100 Build
07/02/2019 19:21:53
I use linseed oil. It has a lovely smell and makes the plan non stick.

Thread: Glass Slipper 2
06/02/2019 21:45:38

Just before Christmas, I well and truly broke my lovely Glass Slipper Slope Soarer when I clipped a wingtip landing on the edge of a hill in the peak district. The resulting cartwheel with triple solko well and truly finished the fuselage off. My lovely planked fus ended up as a glass fibre bag of planks.


(Glass Slipper Mk 1 - Photo courtesy Ian Jones)

I built a new fuselage, reusing the wing and tailplane which were undamaged and that is waiting for a new maiden. The new fus is much stronger, comprised of thicker balsa sheeting, big triangle section longerons and the curves carved and sanded so it has retained much of its elegance (or at least I think its elegant).

However this did get me thinking that I really need a spare and hopefully improved version.

So Glass Slipper 2 was created. The drawing was started while I was in hospital in the new year and a bit of design discussion on Facebook followed.

The result looks like this:

plan v2-1.jpg


plan v2-2.jpg

(a bit of a close up). (Hardly a curve in sight)

The wing panels are veneered foam and are currently en route from Bill-Kits (Bill Manley)

The fus layout is similar to the layout I used for the replacement fus mentioned above.

As I am convalescing at the moment, I have been only allowed limited time in the shed but I did manage to make a start on this last weekend.

wing section.jpg

I have elected not to go for a symmetrical section, the design brief is sporty (hopefully fast) with some aerobatics and Andy Ellison (and others) suggested this wing section.

The fus side (and top/bottom) are 3/16 balsa scarf joined to get the length with 1/16 ply doublers to just behind the wing

1/2" triangle in the corners and tapered in the vertical plane to the front and rear






The idea is that most of this wood is carved/planed/sanded away leave a nice profile and cross section but quite strong

The snakes need to be added before the fus is puller together at the rear, you will not get them in afterwards.


Today's task was fitting the R/E servos in the nose. This required me to mill out the triangle from the inside. The servos are mounted tandem style but offset slightly so the servo arm would fit. The fus maximum width at the wing root is 40mm. There really isn't much space in there. The servos are midi sized servos, digital metal gear with BB,


The Rx sits under the wing. Those snake outers are 4.5mm wide...


Final job today was to hinge the rudder and elevator and fit and connect the control horns. 3 hours in the shed was the limit of my physical endurance.

Hopefully the wings will arrive tomorrow and I can mark out the ailerons and drag flap and start work there,

More to come


Thread: Elan 100 Build
06/02/2019 20:46:38

Looking forward to following this one Andy

Thread: Martyn's Chippie RCAF 671
29/01/2019 10:15:36

Thanks both

Denis, the cub yellow is different to the trainer yellow from Klasskote. I tried it. Great minds etc.

I am going to try a small tinlet of the humbrol trainer yellow to see how that matches. I don't want to put epoxy based klasskote through my airbrush, in fact I am reluctant to use enamel, I preferacrylics only as they are much easier to clean.


28/01/2019 23:42:20
Thanks Danny

That image is perfect. I used the Metamark you suggested. After the first failure, I gave the mask edges a coat of clear lacquer which helped. I think the problem was that my paint was too runny and didn't dry fast enough. It didn't help that the white primer back lifted and peeled on the 2nd attempt (I hadn't. Let it harden - it was quite cold in the shed). 3rd attempt was better but having probkems getting the registration correct over the earlier attempts. I am just a novice but Learning the hard way. I finally got it just about right on the wing roundels though - taking it very slow and steady. The hardest bit though was getting the mask in place for the 671 at the rear where it butted up against the strake. That is where I have the most to fix. Not an insurmountable problem though
28/01/2019 22:14:34

12 and a bit months since the last update... There has been (slow) progress through the year, just been lazy with the camera and the updates - sorry.

The engine has been fitted and the cowl has been trimmed and fitted and it was painted in Klasskote trainer Yellow last autumn and the last few days some colour detail has been added.








Its a lot worse than it looks, frown

Had a problem getting the mask to say flat over the rivets so the paint bled slightly, particularly around the strakes at the rear. However it will get touched up with some yellow in due course. The wings have also been done.

The flag is a home made transfer - all the rest of the lettering is paintwork

The 'roundels' were a nightmare with the red bleeding especially badly, these took 3 attempts...

I am mot at the stage where I need to make the undercarriage leg fairings but I am blowed if I can find how Danny did his on the masters build blog. Been through about 80 pages of it tonight..

Would like to get this finished by spring, bur there is no rush

More to come, but hopefully in less than 12 months


Thread: Tony B's replica
25/01/2019 22:42:11
Looking great Tony and I love the gun and pilot. Where did you get your silk from?

Thread: Dancing Wings Hobby "Fiesler Storch Kit"
24/01/2019 10:28:55
That looks like a great kit. Following
Thread: How long have you been in the hobby?
23/01/2019 23:06:17
Since 1970. My first kit was a kk Soarer Baby.

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