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Member postings for Martyn K

Here is a list of all the postings Martyn K has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Super Tigre 20cc - 30cc engine parts
12/11/2018 13:28:55

I think Big Brute fuel is by Model Technics. 0% Nitro, nice and cheap.

I have used it - its fine on my ST3250

Martyn

Thread: Hawker Fury Mk1 Replica, K1930 (OO-HFU)
10/11/2018 08:53:10
Duplicate post. Sorry

Edited By Martyn K on 10/11/2018 08:54:08

10/11/2018 08:53:06
Hi Andy
I have been using these servos on my gliders for a while with no problems. The only problems I am aware of are that
The plastic on the plastic cased variants is a bit brittle and you will need to find a way of rubber mounting them (if using an ic engine) as I don't think they come with grommets..

They are fairly quick, centre well and adequately powered to drive a single aileron

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 10/11/2018 08:55:18

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
09/11/2018 13:29:32

As soon as I can find a willing victim to help and a fair wind and a start to steer her by.. :D

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
08/11/2018 16:43:15

Ah I understand, I thought that the sleek line from cowl to cockpit had been lost somehow. It still may not be a bad idea though

Thanks

Martyn

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
08/11/2018 16:39:31

----Foka 4----

Finally finished this and now waiting for a Maiden (and some more cockpit detail).

AUW 5.5kg which apparently is about right for a model this size. Its taken 18 months since I started with my digital crayons but it has been interspersed with other model making and maintenance activities.

paint7.jpg

paint8.jpg

paint9.jpg

That Orange Peel is actually residue from the masking film. Ir rubbed off but caused a panic at the time..

canopy8.jpg

and .. Ta Da

finished.jpg

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 08/11/2018 16:48:36

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
08/11/2018 16:33:11

This is getting a bit worrying Danny

Its good of you to point out these errors. I have a feeling I am going to fit the cowl first and work backwards from there. The only thing I cant easily modify is the cowl..

Martyn

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
07/11/2018 13:47:29

I agree with Andy, Danny. Build the model to your own requirements. If you feel you must do a demo then try putting Lith on a hard boiled egg or similar. You wont get any better compo​und curves and if you manage that you will be in even more awe that you are already are..

laugh

To answer your question - yes - I am going down the Lith path mainly because I am clumsy butter and lith is slightly tougher than tape.

Martyn

Thread: Tony B's replica
06/11/2018 13:07:08

Tony,

I would put the wingtip cap ribs on  before you get too carried away with the sanding. Would be interested to see whether you get a good fit - especially on the outer two ribs.

 

Coming along very quickly..

 

Martyn

 

Edited By Martyn K on 06/11/2018 13:07:48

Thread: K5682 - Martyn's Fury
06/11/2018 09:57:53

Thanks Martin

The wings are OK, its just very repetitive work. The aileron hinge and servo linkage is the trickiest part so far. I have made mine more complex by having a 2 piece wing but now that it is done, I am not sorry that was the path I chose..

Martyn

Thread: Decided on 60cc aircraft expressly designed for electric flight
06/11/2018 09:40:12

If you adjust the tail wheel pivot so its at 90 degrees to the base of the rudder then it should be fine

Martyn

Thread: K5682 - Martyn's Fury
06/11/2018 09:32:33

Continuing with the aileron. this is really quite slow but I want to get it right..

ail-hinge6.jpg

The other parts of the aileron hinge were extracted and drilled - and then panic ensued while I lost one for an hour.

What is clear is that it will not be possible to fit the bolts, nuts and bushes once the aileron is attached so each hinge was assembled, bolted up (and the 10BA nuts secured with superglue) and the aileron slotted onto the hinge. Because I wanted to set the aileron linkage, I simply tack glued the aileron part of the hinge into place while I aligned the linkage and aileron horn. When the aileron has been covered and painted then the hinges will be slotted into the completed aileron. I am adding simple guides so the hinge is located correctly

ail-hinge4.jpg

I have moved the aileron horn in two bays as the location shown is incorrect on the plan. I also wanted to get the linkage angle so that it resembles that on the full sized. I am using ball links here again, but I have carefully sanded the plastic bit down to a slight taper as was rather bulky and was fouling the woodwork slightly.

 

ail-hinge7.jpg

The outer hinge has had a couple of strips if 1/8 x 1/16 balsa to stiffen and strengthen the area around the hinge and add a little glue contact area

 

 

ail-hinge5.jpg

The aileron linkage bends are a bit contorted but its a slow flying aeroplane and not heavily loaded. It seems quite stiff so I think it will be ok.

 
And the proof of the pudding. Although differential has been built in mechanically, I can add extra if required from the transmitter controls, but the throw looks about right.
 
The other bit of progress is that I have completed all the cap strips, fitted the LE and started sanding to shape.
 
More to come
 
Martyn
 

 

Edited By Martyn K on 06/11/2018 09:50:50

Edited By Martyn K on 06/11/2018 09:54:21

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
06/11/2018 08:04:23

That's great Danny. I like the tip for creating the bevels. I have never tried that

Martyn

Thread: MF's Hawker Fury Mk1
05/11/2018 11:44:05

Ah OK.. They looked like light balsa. Very neat. I'll probably add the lith to the balsa or card when I build mine.

05/11/2018 10:22:37

Beautiful work Martin

How did you do the gun troughs?

Martyn

Thread: K5682 - Martyn's Fury
03/11/2018 12:49:10

A bit more progress - still working on the wings.. Lots to do here and I am now getting to the tricky bits

aileron_lead1.jpg

I forgot to add holes in the ribs for the aileron lead so I simply slotted the leas in about 5mm behind the main spar. Added cap strips on top

shroud1.jpg

The shroud was fitted - cut from 1/32 ply with 1/32 balsa behind it. Now added this to the other wing half which is only getting changes and bits added as I prove them first,,,

servo3.jpg

I bit the bullet and have fitted the servo. Its actually sitting on cut down square grommets and a ferrule, The ferrule wasn't long enough to get to the top half. As its out in the wings I think it will be OK with this minimal vibration damping. I am going to link the pushrod using a M2 ball link. As the servo arm is quite short, its important that there is no slop at all

wing42.jpg

With the servo and servo lead in place I could complete the upper and lower cap strips. Just one more wing to go.. Its been like pulling teeth.

wing43.jpg

I mentioned that I was going to move the lower flying wire anchor point into the centre section. Cut from some old 20g brass sheet (a thick Tee section) and glued and screwed down. A short length of 1/4 x 1/16 spruce over the top will slot (hopefully) into a slot in the lower wings. That will be fun trying to get an invisible joint..

wing44.jpg

A funny angle shot. When dry, I can complete sheeting the centre section. The lower side is done and the uc plate has been added (as per plan)

Which brings me to the tricky bit. The first aileron hinge. Apologies if I spell this out, it too a bit of thinking about.

First cut out the GF parts then cut slots in the TE section of the wing. Note the most outer of the hinges needs to be shortened - the plan shows it sitting between the two spars but that is now filled with balsa.

From Chippie experience, it is best if the 10BA bolts are run in brass bushes, The challenge is to get the 4 hinges all lined up with a rod that can be removed afterwards. The end hinges actually butt up against the end ribs (at both ends so you cant simply slide a rod out.

Mine telescopes. Using the bushing tube, I cut 2 x 150mm length and a short length of piano wire to sit between them Cut a short bush to fit in the outer hinges and slot a 10BA bolt through and then lock not to keep it square and a bit of slow set epoxy over the head

ail-hinge1.jpg

Sorry its out of focus - having phone problems. You can see the 1/16" wide bush if you squint and have a vivid imagination.

ail-hinge2.jpg

Assemble the hinges and telescopic alignment rod. It needs to sit against the upper edge of the rear spar - quite easy. add slow set epoxy and slot it all into place

ail-hinge3.jpg

Alignment is quite easy using the Mk1 eyeball. Just make sure you don't bend the tubes. The hinge centre line is just behind the shroud. Leave it all to dry for a few hours then remove the alignment rod by sliding the piano wire into one of the tubes and there should be enough space to ease out the tubes from the hinges. I'll find out if that is true later laugh

More to come

Martyn

Thread: Easy Built Models Ryan ST
01/11/2018 13:32:55

It looks like a kit to get really under your skin. Just hope it doesn't become an irritant

Seriously, its one of those that you need to your time with, please keep us posted with progress reports.

Good luck with it, following..

Martyn

Thread: Ever wondered why the engine won’t start?
01/11/2018 13:26:34

I keep reading this and I think I may be being a bit thick, but just HOW do you get the carb and exhaust wrong way round? Baffled..

Thread: Tony B's replica
01/11/2018 11:45:32
Posted by Tony Bennett on 01/11/2018 11:13:28:

I think i will be dropping out as i cannot understand the plan well enough to build correctly.

i shall watch all you others progress with your builds with envy.

Tony B

Hang on in there Tony. When you get stuck just ask. We are all here to help.

Martyn

Thread: K5682 - Martyn's Fury
01/11/2018 11:35:11

Some comments and thoughts from my FB blog

1. The brass rigging parts are only bent through 90 degrees at the moment. If you bend them fully then the 1/16 ply plate wont fit as the bend needs a step in it. SO bend at 90 deg, allow the epoxy to harden then finger bend the last 45 degrees. Its no problem, the brass is nice and soft

2. The plates need a spacer underneath them to cater for the thickness of the brass plate. It needs a much thicker spacer under the lower wing forward rigging mounting point as the gap between the spar and the cap strips is much bigger. The plate sits flush with the cap strips

3. I used parallel action pliers and bent all 4 in one go so they are the same length. The absolute length isn't critical

 

Martyn

 

Edited By Martyn K on 01/11/2018 11:37:12

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