Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Jarvis 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Babybolt RCM&E Feb 2017 free plan|
Progress on mine has slowed, using cyano for the planking played hell with my asthma plus I've ran out of wood for the planking and with no models shops locally now, I need to mail order, because it's length, the postage is £10 so I need to do a big enough order to justify the shipping cost.
I just photocopied the formers and ribs from the plan, cut them out and then stuck them to the wood using a glue stick, ok not as neat as laser cut but does the job and it's not going to be seen under all that planking and wing sheeting.
My build gallery updated
My build gallery updated
My construction gallery updated
My progress on the Baby Bolt so far. I decided that I'd use 1/8th liteply for the servo mounts. I wish I'd looked properly at the build photos linked at the start of this thread as I started building part sheeted and too late to change to fully sheeted so I'll have to go for part sheeted bottom fully sheeted top
Edited By Andrew Jarvis 1 on 17/04/2017 16:29:49
Hi Peter, thanks for the repy I have just checked my man cave and I have 2 new, unused motors that may be suitable, a Turnigy SK3 2830-1020KV and a Turnigy Aerodrive D2836/8 1100KV, I'll probably go with the SK3 .
I'm just about to build the Baby Bolt and was a little confused over what motor to use, it seems the HET Typhoon micro 6/20 is no longer available and couldn't find anything that closely matched the specs, so was looking for advice, the AXI motor mentioned above is way too expensive for me to consider at £55 so I looked at 4Max and they do a 'claimed' equivalent http://www.4-max.co.uk/po-2830-1350.html What do you think?
|Thread: Anyone built a Baby bolt|
Just ordered the wood for the Baby Bolt free plan from the Feb RCM&E and just wondering if anyone has built one yet and if so what motor did you use, the reason I ask is the author used a HET Typhoon Micro 6/20 outrunner, this exact motor doesn't seem to be available and I can't find anything that matches the specs which are:
I can get close to matching the dimensions but not the KV and W I can get close on one but it'll be way different one the other ie close on the Watts but the KV will be nowhere near or vice versa.
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
It says OS Fourstroke, no size, though the model is 64 inch span so I'd guess at a .90 and apparently Futarba servos and RX
Edited By Andrew Jarvis 1 on 31/05/2016 13:11:30
|Thread: Sid King Novice|
It's a shame that Colin Buckle has stopped doing the Novice, looking at the (updated) Traplet plan, it's horrible and bares no resemblance to the original Novice at all. I learnt to fly on the Novice 37 years ago, I built a Ben Buckle kitted version with my daughter 5 years ago and was hoping to build another but this time with an electric set up.
|Thread: Kit shelf Life|
Recently, I've built a Micro Mold Tyro Too kit from the early 80s, it went together as it should and no issues with the wood, I sold the bare airframe so can't comment on how it flew. I am currently building a DB Sport and Scale Rookie 86 of similar vintage, again no issues with the wood and it's going together really well.
|Thread: A Gangster 52 for today ?|
Agreed, the Ripmax ARTF version was rubbish, get the proper kit version.
|Thread: Why you should always fit a pilot...|
Ah, had wrongly assumed it was the ARTF version, that said, I've always binned the hardware supplied in Foss kits, it may have been 'OK' in the 70s and early 80s but these days it's junk, Mylar hinging was never ideal as like you say, it's really difecult to get to glue in securely, I've built 4 Wot 4s from kit over the last 15 years, none of them were built using the supplied hardware or hinging material.
You don't need to pin CA hinges, the furry surface is designed to merge with the wood, if glued in properly, they won't move without taking structure with them, I've been using them in lots of different models over the last 15 years, never had one fail. The main reason for a CA hinge to fail is not gluing them in correctly in the first place, unfortunately, the instructions in many ARTFs are woefully inadequate when it comes to advising on the best way to glue in CA hinges, you need to remove the covering from around the hinge slot so the cyno (very thin) can work properly, it needs to wick into the wood and the hinge. Pinning a CA hinge that's not glued in properly is not going to achieve anything, the hinge will just rip out past the pin, I've seen this happen a lot with mylar type hinges that haven't been glued in properly.
|Thread: Hobby King 30cc models|
I had that model a few years back when it was sold under the Cermark brand as a package with an SPE26 engine.
Undercarriage issues are something most ARTFs of this type suffer, not just Hobby King, the airframes are designed to be very light so there are bound to be week spots, in most cases undercarriage parting company on less than perfect landings. Bulkheads also seem to be a weak area on a lot of ARTFs and not just the cheap ones, they often need a little more glue and some re-enforcement.
|Thread: Show us your workshop!|
No, it's 14 x 10
My workshop starting to look more business like.
|Thread: RCM&E Springfield Bulldog|
Anyone know if there is going to be a CNC part set for this model, I would like to make one but one or two of the formers look a nightmare to cut out.
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