Here is a list of all the postings Outrunner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thank you for your reply. I did hold model up into wind and the blades did spin up and whistle, although they did shake a bit when spinning up. Not sure if this is normal.
I will try your suggestion, I think I was accelerating too quickly and running out of runway, I will try moving forward slowly with backstick as suggested and from a downwind start position.
Well, I hung my Whippish up and it hung at about 13-14 degrees so I left it at that. Lockdown now eased I ventured down the field today to give it a go. The wind was a very light breeze gusting up slightly then dropping to nothing again, nice warm day about 24C.
It was partly successful in that I didn't break anything but apart from a couple of short hops I did not get very far. The biggest issue was getting the blades to spin fast enough and preventing a roll to the left. I had most success by waiting for a gust of wind to spin the blades whilst still stationary then going forward into the breeze and taking a short hop. Most of the times I just got a roll to the left. I understand that this is the blades not spinning fast enough.
If it was a fixed wing tail dragger I would be holding up elevator to keep the tail on the ground but I'm not sure if I can do the same thing with an autogyro.
I did panic on one of the hops as it turned right towards a ploughed field and I just backed of the throttle and down it came and stayed upright.
Not sure where to go from here, is the model poorly setup or is the pilot doing the wrong thing? Probably both.
Edited By Outrunner on 20/05/2020 18:51:33
|Thread: RCM&E Plans Available?|
Sarik Hobbies are the people for RCM&E plans and parts.
|Thread: Vampire EDF|
Hello John. I love the Vampire and I love your Vampire model. Great work and thank you for sharing. Will there be a plan? It looks too good for there only to be one of these flying around.
Hopefully this lockdown will be over soon and you can fly your Vampire. I have one new model and two rebuilt models ready to fly. I can't wait.
|Thread: Hitec Aurora 9 / 9x LCD screen|
It's confusing, yes the UK left the EU via Brexit on 31st January 2020, but we are in a transition period until 31st December 31st 2020. So, until the end of this year we are still in effect still in the EU following all the customs procedures etc as before. As of next year, who knows what will happen.
I too have a Hitec Aurora 9 that fortunately still works, but if and when it stops I have a lot of receivers and telemetry gear than will be useless. When it finally does fail I will switch brands, hopefully to one that does not drop it's support like Hitec have.
Can you get a new screen direct from Hitec or maybe Germany will be a good place to try as Hitec own Multiplex.
|Thread: The Big Guff.|
David. I recently recovered my Junior 60 using tissue over doculam. I used balsalock around the edge of the ribs and spars, it stuck as good as the original Solartex but much lighter. We went into lockdown before I managed a test flight.
Enjoying your Big Guff build, should be ready for when we can fly again.
|Thread: Stand or sit|
Stand, I do have a chair in the workshop but I only use it to stand on and reach things.
|Thread: Coverings: not sure...|
I got my Mylar from Mike Woodhouse who runs Free Flight Supplies. I can't remember what thickness I used but Mike can advise. Brush on some thinned balsa lock to the frame, cut the mylar a little oversize and iron on and shrink like solarfilm. When the model is covered I laid on wet tissue then brushed on thinned varnish to stick the tissue down. When dry give another coat of thinned varnish.
When dry the model is now ready for decoration. You should not have any problems with the model warping like when using shrinking dope. Talking of dope some people recon that varnish does funny things in damp weather and they use dope instead. I've never had any problems with varnish, it's very cheap and doesn't pong.
Tissue over mylar, very light, strong and easy to put on. I believe it is lighter than doped tissue too as you don't have to keep putting dope on to fill the weave, I just do two coats of thinned water based varnish. Extremely ding proof too.
|Thread: Corona Lock-Down Microaces Combat|
I thought the Dalek would have shot them down!
Have fun, stay safe.
|Thread: The Whipitteer|
That looks very impressive Rich, nice looking model and you fly it very nicely. Hopefully the plan will be published soon.
I'm hoping to fly my Whippish this week it's just about ready to whirl.
Thank you Rich
I will give it a go and hang my Whippish up!
More photos soon and of course a maiden test flight!
Getting close to finishing now, all the gear is just got to connect rudder cables and fit a prop. I can't find any mention of balance point on the plan, anybody know where this should be? I can't do the usual finger under the mainspar trick on an autogyro!
Hopefully the weather will calm down a bit so that I can get down the flying field.
I had some enamel spray paint sitting in the cupboard, flo red and flo yellow, perfect for a nice bright colour scheme. I tested on some scrap depron to see if there was any reaction, it was OK on the shiny part of the depron but the cut edges reacted.
So I had a bright idea, I got at tester pot of the brightest red emulsion paint I could find and painted this all over but it came out a bit dull, so I then tried spraying the flo red but the can gave up. So then I tried spraying the flo yellow but it just looked like a boil has burst over the red paint and looks awful. Ho Hum, it's fairly bright so hopefully I will be able to see it in the sky.
The pilot is ready to go....
Should be finished soon.
The blades are nearly finished. I started with 4 blades.
One blade got sanded a bit thin so then there where 3 little pink ones
I popped all the bits on the scales and with a 3s 2200 Lipo it weighed in around 717 grams and with a 3s 1500 Lipo it was about 658 grams.
Out of interest do know what sort of weight Whippit's coming in at?
I'm enjoying making the blades, it much nicer working with ply and balsa than depron. The model is now painted although it was a bit of a disaster, I will explain and post some photos later.
I can come up with a close estimate of all up weight tomorrow as I have everything to hand and I'll put all the bits on the scales.
I enlarged and printed the blade section then stuck this to a piece of thin ply
Then marked around template onto end of blade blank, as Rich recommended I'm making four blades
Nice new blade in the David plane and roughed out the profile
Roughed the leading edge
Now the trailing edge and ready for final sanding
I'm following Steve Jones blog within the Atom Special thread on blade making, this has been really helpful, thanks Steve
After gluing the blades together and trimming the ends they are 415 long by 60 wide, is this too short?'
I'm working on the blade profile at the moment.
I will post some photo's later.
Rich. I've scaled up the rotor blade dimensions from the RC Flyer plan and it gives me a rotor blade size of about 61mm by 400mm. Is this correct.
I've got some 1/4" X 3/8" spruce and cut some 1/4" X 2" balsa to make up the blade but looks huge. Is this right?
Many thanks. Phil.
Edited By Outrunner on 29/02/2020 15:46:02
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