Here is a list of all the postings Graham R has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Some ideas for scratch built Depron fuselages.|
Very much like your work Ray.
Depron is soft and easily marks/dents. How do you prevent this and do you use a covering to smooth out the texture before painting.
|Thread: Westland Wagtail|
Once shaped the tape is removed
I am building the wagtail and have almost completed the fuz. Forming the depron was the bit I most dreaded it sit is really quite easy. I found that you must tape up the outside face with parcel tape. To shape it just roll the depron over the top of a piece of tube with your hands. Take your time and it will curve.I found it easier to remove the curves of the formers and then build the fuz upside down top. That way you have a clear datum line..
|Thread: Free Plan of the Mini Lec Roo|
Has anyone made provision for removing the motor if so how?
Not sure that your colour scheme can be improved upon
Thanks for your help Pete. Just started cutting fuz parts.
Thanks for your help, now looking for a 350ish watt motor on 3s. I am interested in seeing your vid.
The reason I asked was that fitting a hi kv motor with a small prop tends to generate a high pitched scream which is not so good on a noise sensitive site.
Are there any updates as to motor/battery/prop combinations?
|Thread: BAE Hawk - Skyways Models|
No i'm not from perma grit.
concerning glueing abs to veneer I th ink I used epoxy with the abs roughened. With the tailpipe I seemed to remember tha we made ours from balsa with a removable end piece as the rx battery needed to be right at the back to balance it.
I used to help Phil at skyway models.I built 2 of the original prototypes back in the early 90's (I think that about the date). It with 5 others flew all around the shows during theat tine and even survived a fly away at the woodspring wings show. It was found by a farmer some 3 mile away completly undamage apart from some hinges that got pulled out. Mine was only retired last year and the other is still being flown at our club.
From what I remember the canopy was indeed built in 2 pieces. The molded canopy finishing at the hoop. The front part of the canopy was a piece of thin acetate sheet.
The guy who designed it was well into slope soaring and I believe it made a good slope soarer.
It certainly was a good flyer (with a 40 up front) very smooth, flew on rails and with flaps down would fly very slowly.
Good luck with the build.
|Thread: Models Database - any interest in one?|
How about one for a smartphone maybe using handbase. Very useful when in shop/model show trying to remember what prop/battery size etc a model needs.
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