Member postings for Graham R

Evening all

It's been a bit quiet on here lately. I'm procrastinating again. I can't decide what to do next. I have servo boxes installed also hollowed wings for the fitting of retracts.i have yet to cut out the wheel wells. i haven't joined the wings yet as it's easier to work on shorter components and lesson the risk of hanger rash. If I Glue on the nacelles first, will it make it more difficult when joining the wings as they won't rest flat on the bench. Decisions, decisions.

Hi Paul,

Nice neat solution for the flap. Have been busy today marking up the wing. Glued on l/e strips and started to make a hot wire cutter to cut out flaps etc.

DD

I like your moth, guess it won't be long before it's maiden.

Hi Paul

Thank you. I think that may be a job tomorrow. That will start the wing build.

Making good progress Paul. Are the servo wells pre-cut and hidden under the obechi or do they need cutting out from scratch..

Ps hope its not man flu!

Paul, where are the flap servos?

Are the servo wells precut into the foam and covered by the veneer, or do they need cutting out?

Edited By Graham Russell on 12/05/2017 19:54:10

Thanks Dwain.

Paul the area I mean is the area on the bottom of the fus immediately behind the tail wheel also the back end between the sides an behind former F8.

Hi Richard, I do have a spare Hacker A60(2600w) is a Hyperion zs4035 (1500w) or failing that an old laser75 cir 1990

I also would be up for one if it's a bit later in the year. My modelling budget has been hit a bit with the purchase of a WB Spitfire and Fg110.

Would it take electric or do I need to re-invest in ic (Having gone totally electric)

Nobody has shown their rear end yet! Is it just filled in and rounded off behind the tail wheel?

2. What did you do with the edge along the cockpit? It needs rounding off. Did you add an extra doubler on the inside edge so that the outside edge can follow the outside contour? Once I've sorted these 2 problems my fus will have finished the building stage.

Hi Nigel. Welcome back and trust you will get sorted soon.. I'll be very interested to see how you do your hinges for this project and for gliders.

I'm a happy chappie, got my back end sorted. All surfaces working, at last.

Dwain, like you I ended up cutting out a lot of t/p sheeting to get the rudders sorted. Have now got control rods in. I can now get on with the rest of the fus installing decking etc. Nice tidy garage you have there.

Edited By Graham Russell on 05/05/2017 20:29:24

opps wrong thread

Edited By Graham Russell on 02/05/2017 21:35:23

How much rudder throw do you need? I'm having trouble getting much movement on left fin, left rudder and right fin right rudder.

Paul, yes like yours. I have some K &S brass strip which I silver soldered after I cleaned up the joiner. I use a small blowtorch. The joint does feel pretty secure.

Dwain,

As Richard said, it's the viscosity of single cream. I found that if when you are painting it on it and it gets hard to brush out it's a little thick. The brown paper is quite absorbing. When you going over an edge e.g around the fin, I found it useful to paint some water on the opposite surface. It seemed to help. The method of application was as Richard suggested.

I have thought about some building photos, but you and Paul have covered most aspects. The only modification I have made was to silver solder an arm on the elevator so that the servo linkage is all inside the fus.

I still have the wings to cut and fus to complete.

Hope all this helps

Graham

Spoke with Richard yesterday about covering with brown paper. After that I covered the t/p and fins, It was so easy, very pleased with the result. To other warbird builders who may be unsure- give it a try.(and it's real cheap).

You ought to try Stinking Bishop - It is what is says.