Here is a list of all the postings Fraazen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lidl £8 foamie glider - Great for RC conversion - my full video here|
Hallo to everybody!
I would like to know what's the wingspan of this model?
|Thread: Babybolt RCM&E Feb 2017 free plan|
I wish to build one later this year, actually some home refurbishment is blocking any model activity. Anyhow, may question is: do you think it is possible to fit a retractable landing gear?
Other thing: I read the article on RCM&E, and the power set you suggest seems little small. What power to weight ration did you consider or suggest?
|Thread: Clean Sweep!|
Yes, I settled my elevator to have a max of +/-20mm, measured on the center of it. Then I adjust the throw using D/R to suit my preferences.
|Thread: First steps in CNC milling with StepCraft|
I found really useful to buy a UC100 USB-to-Parallel port controller and change my CNC control software to UCCNC. I found this to fix all the issues I had before with WinPC-CN, like program freezing, connection problems, limited number of tools etc. The license wasn't so expensive, about 200€.
Additionally, I'm using ESTLCAM to produce the G-Code. It's easy to use, fast and also good for 3D milling.
|Thread: Clean Sweep!|
Of course you can post wherever you want!
Many months after I started the building, my CleanSweep finally took-off!
Everything went perfect, as per your article: smooth and straightforward, with just few click of the trim to have it flying level and straight at just 60% of power. By the way, I'm using a 3S 3200mAh Lipo battery, a 50 Amp ESC and an Himaxx 3516-1130 brushless out runner, spinning a 11x5,5 prop. During next flights I'll try to reduce the prop to smaller size, just to see. With this setup, flight time seas in excess of 5minutes, although I avoided the temptation of staying longer in the air!
Landing was quite simple, just a matter of playing with the gas.
Here is a short video of it (perhaps the only video of the CleanSweep!):
|Thread: How to make a pilot bust|
After the putty is hardened, you can start you job of smoothing it off. I used a combination of sanding paper and fine files, tracing the basic contours of the figure using a black pencil, just as a reference. I've also printed out a copy of the original 3D model to use as a guidance during the "sculpting process".
After you are satisfied with the shape, you can take acrylics colors and fine brushes to give your pilot a better, more realistic color. The finished job you can see here (ok, there is still some painting to be done...).
Ok, guys, I think the idea is clear enough and the process is not as complicate as it seems. I'm quite happy with the result that gave the opportunity to develop some different skills!
Hope you will get inspired by this idea!
I suggest to apply a first layer of putty using a spatula, and a second one using your fingers, as the latter are more useful to follow the complex contour of a human body.
After few minutes of works I put the bust aside to let the putty cure and becoming workable with file and sand paper. The shape is now much, much better!
As you may see, having not used any dowel as reference during the assembly stage resulted in a shape that is a little bit torn rather than straight. This error can be (at least partially) corrected by adding some more putty on a single side only.
Edited By Fraazen on 01/02/2015 11:52:12
So, I does my pilot looks at this stage?
More or less like a mummy!
Now, it's time to build your pilot bust and transform the mess of balsa pieces into something with more sense!
For my first trial, as I said, I followed a very simple way: I hand cut the parts and I didn't use any reference dowel, just like many of you will do, and although imperfect, the result is good enough!
To glue, you may use the glue of your choice. I opted for the Super 'Phatic resin from Deluxe Materials, which cure in few minutes and it's easy to sand.
After you have glued together all the parts, your pilot should look (something) like this:
Recognizable, but not finished yes... unless, of course, you like a "Picasso style" pilot!
To improve it, I used some putty in order to fill the steps between the layers and obtain a more continuous shape. I used a type of putty with very low shrinking ratio and that contain fiberglass fibers that provide extra strength, a characteristic very desirable when sanding to avoid the putty to fall off as a result of your efforts!
Here is the putty I used:
After you have your set of drawings printed out, you can switch off your PC and we can move to the building board.
Then you can cut around each shape and have it glued on the balsa sheet (or other material of your choice). I did this not only to save material (by the way, you can also use scrap balsa!), but also to change the fibre orientation so that there will be less warping on your build later on.
After the glue is cured (which will take few minutes, anyhow), you can take your scalpel (I suggest a blade no.10) and cut along the lines. This, mind you, is going to take some time, let say a full evening. In my case, I cut precisely along the curved lines and in approximate way where there was a more finer detail; these ones had been refined with a small file later on.
The benefit of having the paper glued on top of balsa are three: first, it's more easy to follow the lines, then you keep the numbering for staking the parts together and finally the paper is providing some extra strength to your build.
For me it was not so complicated, only time consuming!
You're right, selecting the proper paper is a little bit complicated, I also had some problems on it. Anyhow, I finally managed to create a proper set of stacks to be printed, as well as a DXF copy to use with my StepCraft cutting machine.
For the first experiment, I've anyhow resorted to manual cut each part for this is more similar to what most of us have to do!
In this case, considering a thickness of 3mm it will look like my second image, a little bit "schematic", but still recognizable!
Not that much!
in fact, it's going to take a n hour or two to cut out the parts, and gluing is only 10-20 minutes, depending on the glue you are using.
Ok, last couple of picture and we can finish with this boring (although very quick) software!
Click on the little arrow on the top right corner: a new panel will appear showing you the number of sheets and parts that are going to compose your pilot.
Next, a click on the "Get plans" button (bottom left) let you export the plans in different formats or print them on your desktop printer. The first option let you create a DXF file that can be used also with CNC machines for easiness of construction. In my case, I had my stake printed out on a couple of A4 pages.
Ok, for today we have finished! Recap: we downloaded a model fro Internet, then we used the 123D Make software to slice the model into something we can build and finally we have printed (or exported) the slices so that we can now move to the construction phase.
Stay tuned for further development!
For my needs, a thickness of 1,5mm seems to be ok. This is the result.
After that, playing whit the "Dowels" panel let you add a dowel which is very helpful for aligning the stack when gluing them together. I would suggest a vertical dowel that has the further benefit of being able to keep the stake aligned in both X and Y directions, while a round one will leave some play to turn them left or right, that could be good if you want to create a bust that faces on either side of the plane. If you choose (as I did) a vertical dowel, this is automatically added to the project as well and will pop-up on the screen.
The next step is the magic one! With few clicks we are going to transform the model in something more realistic.
Click on "construction technique" and choose "Stacked slices": the model will change dramatically, becoming something like this:
At this stage you should have guessed what my idea is: to transform a complex, detailed 3D model into a series of balsa slices that will be glued in stack and refined to our needs.
Now you have to change parameters a little bit to make a balance between the number of slices to be cut and the level of detail, nothing that thinner slices will provide a much, much better level of detail. The picture above uses 4,5mm balsa slices, while the following ones are created with 2,5mm and 1,0mm respectively. Impressive difference, true?
Ok, I'm back from my trip in the cold russian winter, so I can continue on this project.
The first step is to find a suitable bust figure in 3D. OBJ data format works well, but other are suitable, too. The one I'm going to use was downloaded for free from the site **LINK**. You need to login and become member, but that all, nothing to pay.
Another useful tool for our purpose is the 123D Make software, also available for free both for Mac and PC. I like Mac, but this is just my preference. This is a powerful yet easy to use software that let you convert this complex 3D model into something more simple and, most important, real.
After you have downloaded the 3D model and 123D Make software, let import the model by clicking on the "Import" command. Then browse to your file and click "Open". After few seconds (or minutes, depending on your machine!) your model will appear. Notice that the user interface is now a little bit more complete, with additional commands.
Rotate the model and fit it to screen size up to the point you're satisfied with it, using the commands I've hi lighted on the right.
Now, looking at the left panel, change units to suit your preference and needs, choosing from in, cm, mm or ft.
Now, adjust the size: it's enough to modify to height to have all the others scaled accordingly. Of course, you can also deactivate the control "Uniform scale" to achieve a somehow different (maybe hugely?) effect.
I'm going to use a height of 7cm.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!