Here is a list of all the postings Nick Cripps has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: If I fit floats to my Senior Telemaster will I need a more powerful engine?|
For those who are interested in trying out float flying, the British Waterplane Association organises 3 events a year at Colwick Park in Nottingham and have monthly meetings at Billing Lake near Northampton.
You'll be guaranteed a warm welcome and any assistance you might need with this fascinating branch of our hobby.
Dates for these and other events around the country can be found on the BWA website:
I agree with Denis.
I would imagine that the TT91 is more than adequate for your STM currently so the extra drag and weight of the floats would easily be coped with. Adding yet more weight with a larger engine just isn't necessary.
More important is to get the dimensions of the floats correct to support the weight of the model on the water and especially important is the positioning of the step so that the model can rotate and take-off successfully.
The Windermere Model Waterplane Flyers website is worth a look, this write-up by Phil Davies provides some good information:
Also worth a read is Chuck Cunningham's article from RCM Magazine:
|Thread: SE5a - dogfight double|
If you haven't already glued the snakes in place, you might find easier to get a smoother run by crossing them over before they exit the rear fuselage.
|Thread: Zulu E|
If you put "Zulu" into the search box you will find a few build threads for this model. I vaguely remember that there was some confusion over the sizing of one of the formers on the plan compared to the laser-cut kit. I'm sure you'll find the answer in one of the threads.
|Thread: Please Help Me Out With The Arithmetic On This One Gentlemen!|
Well, David, as someone who confesses to struggling with mathematics, I'm sure you're now totally confused with the technobabble that this thread has drifted off to, so I'll just give you a couple of simple recommendations to consider.
As stated by TWS and a few others, you only need to carry sufficient extra capacity to complete the full pylon race distance of 5 laps. You already have a reference point from this year that shows your current battery capacity of 2200mAh will only achieve 4 laps so you need another 25% battery capacity. That would suggest a minimum of 3000mAh but going up to 3300mAh would give you a bit of extra margin, assuming the model has space to accommodate it within a tolerable cg range.
Secondly, buy a battery with the highest "C" rating you can reasonably afford. The reason for this is, for a given current, a higher-rated battery will maintain a higher voltage during discharge which in turn gives more power and hence more speed.
Best of luck!
The other way to look at this is to consider that you need sufficient capacity to run at full throttle for 5 minutes in the pylon race rather than the 4 minutes you actually achieved. You then simply need to increase your battery capacity by 5/4 ie a 25% increase. That means you need to use a battery of around 3000mAh or maybe a bit bigger to give you extra margin.
It sounds like the best option is to double up on the 2200mAh packs as has already been suggested.
|Thread: Death Warmed Up|
Actually, Chris, you've got your moments the wrong way round . You'd only need to remove about 3.5oz from the tail to balance without the 9oz noseweight.
Nice build, by the way.
|Thread: WMWF Ullswater March 2018|
Hangar Monkey (and Mike) adapted well to waterplane flying - it looked great!
As did Helvellyn in the sunshine...
A little belated, but here's a selection of my photos from last weekend.
Usual excellent organisation by the WMWF team, especially with arranging the weather which was about the best I have experienced at Ullswater over the 8 or so years I've been attending.
Edited By Nick Cripps on 31/03/2018 15:06:12
|Thread: wot4 on floats|
More likely that the floats have moved the cg back a bit, a common problem when converting a land plane.
I would advise that you balance the model at the most forward point recommended in the instructions as a starting point. Ideally, add any required weight to the nose of the floats so that when you convert back to wheels you don't have to remember to take the weight out again.
The Wot 4 should cope ok with the extra weight, though. It may stall at a slightly higher speed but it won't be a problem so long as you are aware of it.
Having said that, if you have the opportunity to reduce the weight then that's good, too!
Surely you mean tailplane?
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Watching Neil Tidey starting a v-twin in his waterplane at Billing Lake last year, he simply attached a croc-clip to one glow plug, started it up on that cylinder, and then just touched the clip on the other cylinder's plug which fired instantly.
But then, he is the master
|Thread: Fokker EIII Scratch build|
Why don't you keep the tailplane fixed and use wing incidence to control pitch as well as roll?
|Thread: Winters Here Who's Been Flying ?|
According to the Met Office, winter officially starts on 1st December, so I thought it was about time to revive this thread.
I managed to get to the field late this afternoon for an hour or so and was surprised to find the conditions better than expected. Why the other 160-odd club members didn’t take advantage of the good weather is anybody’s guess but I was happy to have the field to myself.
I’d picked up this Wot 4 at a local swapmeet about a month ago for just £65 including engine (40LA) and servos. After fitting a rx and battery, and tidying up a few bits and pieces (including removing a screw from a servo lead!), I was pleased to find out how well it flew and in the conditions today, it excelled. No surprise, I guess, it’s a Wot 4!
I had just 3 flights, taking my time, practicing touch and goes, from left and right hand circuits, wheelers and 3-pointers, until sunset and I could barely see the model - magic!
If this is winter, I can take some more of this!
|Thread: Pushing a Spitfire|
The flaps have to be raised after landing to prevent the engine from overheating as the flaps block the radiator outlets when lowered.
In this video, the flaps were raised as soon as the aircraft touched down so I think there are probably other reasons the pilot chose to do so, such as those mentioned by Jon and Peter.
Incidentally, an "unnamed pilot" put the RR Spitfire onto its belly at East Midlands Airport a few years back trying to raise the flaps after landing:
Note to self - read all pages of a thread before posting, I now see that Josip has already mentioned this - doh!
Edited By Nick Cripps on 05/11/2017 10:08:15
|Thread: ARTF - The Stevo way|
Re: servo installation
We all know (don't we?) but it's worth emphasising in a back-to-basics guide to ensure that the little brass thingies are inserted the correct way round.
PS - I like your servo choice
|Thread: 1.5 volt lead acid for cox engine|
The easiest way is to buy a glow charge lead, remove the bullet connectors and solder the wires to the cox glow clip. Then you can power it from a standard push-on glow starter.
|Thread: Model Gliders & the Law|
Your best source of information is the British Model Flying Association (BMFA) website. Details of the laws regarding operation of model aircraft can be found here:
Note that there is no distinction between powered and non-powered models.
You should also consider having 3rd party insurance to protect you in the event of an accident. Again, the BMFA can help here.
Welcome to this fascinating hobby, I hope you and your fellow students enjoy learning about all it has to offer.
Edited By Nick Cripps on 24/03/2017 14:13:42
|Thread: Can You Name ALL These WW 2 Aircraft?|
43 for me, better than I thought...
|Thread: Jiant Jabberwock refurb|
Have a chat with Pat Dare, he's been flying a Jabberwock with floats for as long as I can remember.
I enjoyed the video, too. When will we see you back at the Colwick meetings? The dates for this year are on the British Waterplane Association website **LINK**
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