Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: LiPo over-voltage|
Sorry, I meant 0.01v
However, this also begs a question as to how closely cells have to be balanced? I've checked many new batteries and found even the best have some variance in the IR.
Edited By Andy48 on 09/07/2020 14:44:24
Two possibilities. It could be I moved the battery thereby restoring a good connection before I looked at the charger, or it is possible that the poor connection corrected itself just before I looked at the charger.
Either way, I believe a poor connection in the balance lead could result in overcharging on a balanced charge. Far easier, and it seems, safer to normally do a standard charge, and only if the battery shows more than 0.1 or 0.2v difference between cells to finish off with a balance charge.
Pity really, because my chargers do quite a fast balanced charge.
Out of interest, my charger will not charge unless the balance lead is connected, and it always does a cell count first to check.
Edited By Andy48 on 09/07/2020 11:11:23
Simple, because at the time it does not realise the cell voltage is over 4.2v due to a poor connection.
It was reading under voltage when it started, however, I think the poor connection corrected itself shortly before I checked the voltages again. I'm not sure I understand either, cCould be I moved the battery, and this corrected the bad connection. I just know it happened, and I will be a lot more circumspect before using balance charge again.
I have two good quality double chargers, and yes one of my cells did overcharge. Fortunately it has the option of displaying individual cell voltages, and when I connected it, one cell looked a little low, about 0.3v which was a little unusual. Thankfully I kept checking the charger whilst it was charging, and it was then I noticed that one cell was now reading over 4.3v. The rest (it was a 5S) we just over 4.0. A poor connection was the problem. I must have used these chargers hundreds of times now without any problem until this event. This particular battery was (and still is) in good condition, and individual cell voltages remain very close to each other during flight and at the end of a flight.
Thankfully (1) I had the charger set to show individual voltages, and (2) I was monitoring it frequently. Otherwise I would almost certainly have had a fire.
For those that think it essential to balance charge every time, I would ask why? There is certainly a danger of having the same problem I had, and the possibility of a fire due to overcharging.
Its simple really, check the cell voltages and if there is a difference of more than a couple of tenths of a volt, then do a balance charge, but check individual voltages regularly, otherwise do a normal charge..
|Thread: Outdoor Workshop|
I've recently finished insulating my new garden shed. I strenghened the floor with a layer of flooring chipboard followed by a plastic click-lock laminate. I didn't bother with insulating the floor as most heat is lost through the walls and roof with only 10% lost through the floor. I reduced that further with the extra thickness of chipboard and the plastic flooring.The floor has never been cold. Walls and roof are both insulated and it has double glazed windows and door. The roof is hot roofed with a rubber roof membrane. All the joins in the wall and roof are sealed against draughts.
I just heat it with a oil filled radiator which has a built in timer. Never needed it on anything but the lowest setting, and it was quite cheap to buy.
|Thread: LiPo over-voltage|
I posted about the danger of this just 2-3 weeks ago. It only happens with balance charging, due to a bad connection somewhere between the balance plug and the charger.
For this reason it seems far better to NOT balance charge unless the cells actually need it, and then do a normal charge followed by a balance charge, watching the individual cell voltage frequently.
As for your overcharged battery, as Richard says, I'd also be inclined to discharge it and then send it for recycling. Better safe than sorry, for what such a battery costs.
|Thread: Self adhesive trim|
Water decals. You can buy water decal paper that you use in an ink jet printer - try Amazon. Then design your own decals. Once printed spray with clear acrylic lacquer and then use like any other water decal.
|Thread: Onboard Voltage Sensor|
Edited By Andy48 on 03/07/2020 17:22:54
26p a propeller is awfully cheap. I would expect to pay at least £1-2 each for them. You might find the ones you have got are very flimsy, and not very safe.
|Thread: Motor Braking|
Not made any difference with mine. It will only hang down when the glider is going slow enough and folds out of the way when landing.
Were life that simple! An electric motor will have various stopping positions depending on the number of turns. Try turning the motor, unconnected of course, by hand and you will feel them.
|Thread: Unable to save settings for S8R|
Hmmm. If you don't take reading glasses down to the field, how do you carefully check a model over before the first flight to ensure nothing has come amiss during transport?
I've never had a problem with seeing the screen even in bright light and there are some things I do need to change occasionally down at the field. I always carry a spare of glasses in my field box.
Probably nobody's made too much effort over this is because there is the LUA script on the tx which does the same job, and so much easier to use, and of course the settings can easily be tweaked down at the field.
Allan, you don't need to know anything about LUA scripts to use them. The scripts are on the OTX latest SD card. Download that and simply copy across the LUA scripts if you haven't already updated the SD card contents.
Check out the "How To Part 2", it goes through using the LUA script from the transmitter: **LINK**
|Thread: The great i.c. / electric finger chopping debate|
Eh? There is far more complexity to setting up electric? Since when?
Battery, motor speed controller and propeller.
First decide on the power required and choose the motor and battery combination. I standardise on battery sizes so only have a few. No more difficult than deciding which IC motor to choose. Look at the maximum current of the motor and make sure the speed controller is capable of handling that. Props? Electric really isn't at all fussy, a wattmeter is all that is really needed to see which prop is required.
I really don't understand the wiring and connection errors, the wiring is no more complicated than the average 9 year old handles in a science lesson. Burn outs??? Fires??? Get real. Never had either.
However, I do see many struggle with a new IC motor down at the field tinkering with them to get them running properly with fingers extremely close to the liquidiser blade. I've also seen a transmitter or two knocked when taking a model onto the field with the IC engine running.
Not at all. Very simple really, arming plug for most models and arm on the field, foolproof kill switch for small foamies where an arming plug cannot be fitted.
In contrast, I never have to have my hand anywhere near the prop once it is turning.
The FrSky radios do a similar thing, if you change model it will not start until the throttle is set at 0, and you will get a warning. Also you can pre-set any of the switches or sliders so that it will warn you if they are not in the required start position not change to that model unless you override it or move the switches to the correct positions.
Use one of the foolproof toggle switch systems mentioned earlier. Safer than the 6 position switch, even if it is voice activated, because you could leave that accidentally on and not hear the voice warning if someone nearby starts a noisy IC engine. The toggle switch system requires the switch to be moved a number of times within ,say, 5 seconds, and cannot be enabled or disabled unless the throttle is off. Voice alerts should also be added. Can't accidentally switch it off in flight either.
|Thread: Horus RTC battery|
Which Horus do you have?
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