Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Voltage sensor|
Many thanks for the disparaging comments Chris, and Onetenor!
I explored the FBVS-01 thoroughly before writing my documentation for OpenTX, and I now have at least 4 X4Rs running with FBVS-01 in them. It is perfectly suitable for the OPs use in a boat using a SLA battery. Essentially it is a simple resistor divider, and as the OP has one it makes sense for him to use it, rather than have to go about getting hold of the correct value resistors.
As so often the FrSky documentation is less than perfect and is not written the X4R receiver. I had to play around with the wiring for quite some time to get it to work correctly. I suspect if the OP follows my documentation, and discovers sensors again, it will work with no problem.
Sadly it seems pointless having spent months and months exploring, testing and writing 250+ pages of documentation when it is rubbished by a few who have never really followed it through.
CARPERFECT, reflashing the Tx is completely unnecessary, the OP is using an X4R receiver which works perfectly well with the FBVS-01 as shown in the documentation I linked to.
Gordon, basically the FBVS-01 is a simple resistor divider. The documentation I supplied the link to above shows how to wire it up to your X4R.
The simplest, and smallest, voltage sensor for the X4R is the FrSky FBVS-01. For some reason, T9 have never sold this. It is about £3 from BangGood.
Also the instructions for fitting it can be found in this documentation. Go to Section 10 part 2, the second "How To" section.
You will need a soldering iron. OpenTX can be adjusted to give the correct reading for a SLA battery.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
To give you a guide as to what my Wot 4 setup cost:
ESC Emax BLHeli series 80a UBEC £26.00 (Found these heli ESCs work just as well)
Turnigy SK3 4250 500kv 1350watts motor £30.61.
Motor Mount, included with motor
Battery 5S 4000 40C battery £31 (heavier battery balances the Wot 4 without extra weight.)
Charging cost per battery (2 flights at least) less than 1p.
I've just finished and tested a new Wot4 running on electric with a 13x8 prop. It uses 5S 4000 batteries. With static thrust I get about 3.5kg thrust at full throttle. While I had some batteries, I bought a couple extra, and far from the £60 quoted above, these new 40C batteries cost £30.88 each from HK with free delivery.
In flight, the thing goes like the clappers, as might be expected on 5S. I have full telemetry on board so I can measure the current actually used. At half throttle (plenty fast enough for most of the time) it uses just 15 amps. After an 8 minute flight there is easily enough for a similar length flight again and a 20 minute flight is, as Bob suggests, well within the battery limits provided one is sensible with the throttle. Again at half throttle, there is little stress on the battery and its life will be extended.
There is one thing to bear in mind for those who move over to electric, whilst the relationship between the thrust and the joystick position is linear, the current consumption rises significantly above half throttle. At full throttle my Wot 4 runs at 65amps. Thus if you fly flat out all the time on electric you will get very short flights. Bear in mind that with drag being the square of the speed, you will likely not see a great increase in overall speed flying like this.
As for robustness of motors, I now stick to Turnigy SK3 motors and these have proved very reliable, but cheap. No bent shafts, no bearings worn out and no magnets come loose in the last several years.
|Thread: New field needed urgently!!!|
Why not join Teesside MFC, its only 10 miles away, though further for those that fly helis.
|Thread: "SD Card Error" warning Taranis X9D Plus|
You are making a very simple task difficult. If you read the document I referenced above, it shows you a 1 minute cure. All you need to do is restore your previous files to the SD card, then simply edit the text for the version number. Job done.
In your last post you asked if someone could help, I offered the help with a dead simple solution, and you have chosen to ignore it.
I'm sorry to say but it was entirely the wrong thing to do in deleting all the SD card files. As you have found you have lost any sound and picture files you stored. If you have stored a copy of the SD card on your computer you can recover it.
There are several ways of getting rid of the error message, its pretty trivial, and can be quite annoying.
There is a section in the documentation here on updating the Taranis, and getting rid of the SD card error. it also explains how to update the bootloader.
Check out Section 7 on the Taranis transmitter.
I would also say it is considerably easier to use the Companion rather than using the transmitter for programming especially with the Taranis and X7 with their more limited screens.
|Thread: Opentx 2.2.2 flashing problems|
Its likely you have a conflict on the USB ports. Mine does exactly the same. The solution was to unplug the printer cable. My bog standard Canon printer causes the conflict. Try unplugging all USB connectors to the computer except keyboard and mouse.
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer wing fixings|
|When I built my electric pup I chopped the fus behind the cockpit. This avoids removing the wings. The tail servos are then fitted to the tail section.|
The battery is installed by using a hinged cowl which holds the motor and speed controller.
This layout may save you any problems with the fus.The Flair pup kit does not contain complete plans.
Edited By Andy48 on 14/10/2018 13:13:46
Edited By Andy48 on 14/10/2018 13:14:25
|Thread: Fake EMAX ES08M servos|
I use lots of Emax ES08MA and ES08MD servos and they have proved excellent. Very reliable. However, I ordered a batch of them from Ebay and they are clearly fakes when you know what to look for.
How to spot the fakes:
1. Notice the screws in the bottom of the servo. Two are black, two silver. All four should be silver on a genuine servo.
2. Look at the accessories pack. On the genuine servos, the screws are different, and the 2 screws for attaching the arm to the spindle should be black.
3. They are supplied without a box.
4. If you already have any of these servos, the genuine spindle is smaller, and the labels on the fake ones are poorer quality.
5. Some don't have the CE mark underneath.
6. And of course, some of the fake ones are suspiciously cheap.
Inside the gearing is quite different, and the pot does not look the same quality. The small circuit board is different. Use these at your peril! They may be OK, but..........
Obviously I've reported these to Ebay.
This one looks genuine, and it does come in the usual black Emax box.
|Thread: Taranis to Spektrum Trainer.|
Can I say I still think you are all offering inappropriate advice at this stage. All we know so far is:
a. Nobody in the club has experience of the Taranis and OpenTX.
b. We know next to nothing about the beginner except he has a Taranis.
Before offering any advice, can I ask Glenn to fill us in on the background information that will help us work with you to decide an appropriate way forward:
a. Has the beginner already set up his model using the Taranis, and has it been flown by somebody in the club using that transmitter. If not then:
b. Is he /she (I'll assume its a he) reasonably computer literate?
c. How much knowledge of setting up a trainer does he have?
d. Why and where did he buy the Taranis? This could be important, it may need updating to latest firmware, EU specs etc, before it will even bind. Also many of the documents/videos make little sense due to them referring to later or earlier versions of the firmware. Copying a file onto Companion is not that straightforward either depending on which version of OpenTX he has. For all we know he may still be on OpenTX 1 if he bought the transmitter second hand!
e. In your opinion is it worth spending your time sorting the system out for him or is he one of those that will probably drift away from the club once he realises its not all as easy as it looks.
f. How computer literate are you? Are you prepared to spend the time alongside your pupil getting to know OpenTX?
Finally there is another issue which nobody has given much thought to. Will Glenn be wanting to use his radio as the master and the Taranis as slave as would be appropriate for both users. If so then the model will need a Spektrum receiver in it or the master will need a FrSky transmitter module. If the answer to question (a) above is no, them personally I think the best solution would be to borrow a receiver or buy a cheap Orange receiver until such time as the buddy box is no longer needed. Programming the Taranis then becomes far simpler and once the OpenTX version number is known, then a very simple slave file could emailed.
I am all too well aware that there are various paths. I was simply trying to make the point that while technically it is straightforward, unless one party has a reasonable experience of OpenTX and of setting up models it can be difficult and frustrating. Much depends on how much time both instructor and pupil are prepared to spend in setting up the system.
I am also aware that making too big a hill to climb for a beginner could end up with the beginner walking away from the hobby.
A far simpler solution would be for the pupil to borrow a Spekky receiver, and use the Taranis as the slave transmitter for now.
I've been working with using computers with literally thousands of young and older for nearly 40 years, please don't lecture me on what either young people or older people can achieve!
Setting up a buddy system is in my docs too:
Section 9 "How to"
I still maintain that for a beginner who maybe understands very little of how any transmitter works, let alone OpenTX or for another club member who has no understanding of OpenTX, following either documentation or a video is going to prove difficult.
Its not just the trainer system but also about setting up the model correctly, and essential basic issues such as failsafes.
Remember guys, this is a beginner with a trainer and a Taranis transmitter, and nobody else in the club has a Taranis. I suspect your posts may well be too complex for the learner or for other club members.
Yes It can work though I've never personally tried it, the Taranis is incredibly flexible in the way it can buddy to other transmitters. Actually the Taranis could act as either master or slave, though I presume he has a FrSky receiver.
However, unless the newbie is particularly adept at programming OpenTX it may prove very difficult to set up unless you can find someone more experienced with OpenTX to set it up for him. The flexibility does make it more complex to set up.
|Thread: Wood galleon kit|
Not a swear word at all, I have a half finished one in the workshop awaiting time and a big dose of patience!
|Thread: Wireless Buddy range|
I too think this is the instructor's fault. No way should the instructor give you control as the student and then allow you to walk off to collect your model. Firstly he should have regained control as the master on the flight line and secondly you shouldn't walk onto the field with your transmitter, but left it at his side.
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