Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Is there a new breed of servo ?|
Is that torque really low? 1.7 -presumably kg.cm means the servo would stall when a load of 1.7kg is placed 1cm from the centre of the arm. Most of my servos only have a maximum distance of 1.5cm throw, so they will clearly handle 1kg. 1kg is probably more than enough to rip a servo arm out of an aileron or rudder on a normal sized sports plane for instance. Indeed it would probably rip the whole aileron out of the wing.
While I have never actually tried calculating it, I suspect the force on an aileron/elevator or rudder on a sports plane going at full wack is far lower than the above figures.
There is a lot of value in choosing carefully first. Having standardised some time ago on a particular size and make, I bought a few packs of spare arms from Banggood for a song. Turned out each pack was actually 5 packs. Now I have a whole tray full!
As you will be aware, another point in favour of standardising is that each different type of servo has a completely different fitting for the servo arm.
|Thread: Proxxon FET 2070 table saw: I tested It!|
Got one of these. Brilliant bit of kit, cuts plywood superbly. Can't begin to guess how much I've saved by cutting my own balsa stripwood.
Just horribly expensive to buy in the first place.
|Thread: Is there a new breed of servo ?|
Yes I noticed that on the same website, as I was looking for slightly larger 17g ones, only because that size fits an ARTF I was thinking of getting. That size Emax have never been that common.
One thing I do like about the 11g Emax ES08MD/ES08MA series is the way the corner where the lead goes in is angled, so the servo can be slotted into a tight fitting servo box.
I try and use the same servos in each model. I standardised on Emax 11g ones, and so far they have been superb, and no failures. Most of my models fall into the 2-4kg sports model category and are electric, a good point as noted by Erflog. The weight saving is really significant. 4 standard servos at 44g = 176g. 4 11g servos = 44g.
A few basic rules:
1. I always buy metal geared servos.
2. Always use individual servos for each aileron.
3. I use straight pushrods wherever possible, and avoid snakes to keep friction low.I ten to use carbon fibre tubes with 2mm wire glued in each end.
4. Avoid the Chinese fakes. Even on £4 Emax servos, they are everywhere. Now I only get them from a reputable dealer.
|Thread: Isolating A Lipo.|
I've used quite long extensions -up to 30cm without adverse effect on a 5S 5000mAh system, and all my models have the leads extended to some extent. Never blown an ESC yet.
I think this is one of those things which may have been true years ago but is now consigned to the backet of old wives' tales.
Edited By Andy48 on 08/03/2020 11:30:26
This used to be BMFA's solution, but it is horrible for 2 reasons. Firstly spade fuses are not meant to be removed repeatedly, and secondly what happens if the fuse blows?
Much simpler, glue an XT60 into a strongish part of the fuselage with epoxy. Much neater than the wall plate and very robust.
|Thread: DH Tiger Moth 1400mm|
Wow! A good old Farnell power supply still going strong. It was 50 years ago I left their factory.
|Thread: On board volt & amp meter|
Use a wattmeter. Much simpler. It will give you the current consumption.
|Thread: Sd card update|
Avoid the synchronisation SD card! It is not immediately clear exactly what is happening there, and you can lose files.
The way you did it before is the best way. Copy the SD card contents to your computer, update the SD card, and then copy the sound files back plus any other files you keep on the SD card such as firmware updates and model pictures.
|Thread: Individual cell voltage of LiPo flight battery.|
Its not that easy because I measure the cells when under dynamic load, i.e. full power, and its generally one cell that shows up quite a lot more, though there is very little difference when measured under no load conditions. At the end of the day every battery is different.
Once one cell has gone you can be sure the rest will be not far behind.
Following on from Bob's comments, I use the FrSky battery sensors on all my models. I only have a couple as they swap from model to model with ease. Yes it does warn in real time.
I use them to warn when an individual cell reaches the lower limit I set when setting up a model. The sole purpose for this is to warn when a battery pack is failing, because when I get the warning message when taking off on full power with a freshly charged battery, I know one cell is failing. Measurements on the ground normally don't show up anything, but its a different matter when the battery is under full load.
Edited By Andy48 on 04/03/2020 17:03:51
|Thread: X10 Horus update|
OpenTX is far far better IMO, once you get used to the way it works. Remember FrOS is based on OpenTX and uses the basic terminology started by OpenTX.
Edited By Andy48 on 24/01/2020 17:11:50
|Thread: SWEET & SMART Acronyms meaning??|
Oh gosh! Futaba are behind the times! Spektrum has it, FrSky has it, why not Futaba?
|Thread: Capacity checker accuracy?|
I've used a couple of such battery checkers and frankly they have ended up in the bin as next to worthless. All they can do is measure the voltage. Now I use a current sensor and this give a very accurate reading of the capacity, and invariably matches the reading on the battery charger.
|Thread: SWEET & SMART Acronyms meaning??|
Bit of a laugh these days really.
S Switch on. Yeah nothing happens until you do.
M Model selected is correct - Automatic these days with binding. Meter in the green. - No meter, voltage reading instead.
A Areal secure / extended. Internal aerial thus nothing to do.
R Rate switches all in correct position. Get audible warning if any of the switches/sliders are not. Correct positions set when programming model. These days we need to consider more than just rate switches too. What about an arming switch for electric for instance?
T Transmitter voltage good. Erm yes checked that under "M". Trims all in correct position. Obviously, with digital trims the positions are stored with the model memory.
Verdict, not very smart at all. Needs a bit of updating to come into the 21st century, I've no intention of going back to use old style 35Mhz transmitters.
|Thread: FrSky Major Update for most TX and RX|
The LBT version will work with D8 and X series receivers no problem. Don't understand why you believe LBT is a problem waiting to happen.
As for when the band is full, surely that would affect any transmitter, however I read somewhere that over 100 helicopters were flown together on 2.4Ghz. DSM2 only listens once when switched on and is therefore more prone to problems when the band is busy than LBT or DSMX transmitters.
As for Spektrum kit, nearly every regular flyer at our club has changed away from it having had numerous radio failures. That's why I changed. I lost 3 aircraft in 2 weeks in very similar circumstances. Never had a problem since moving to Frsky stuff.
Thanks to Mike's efforts it is now possible to update the internal module using the bootloader with OpenTX version 2.3. Thus it is no longer necessary to reinstall FrOS.
I think you are being very optimistic to believe manufacturers could possibly test every conceivable situation in the real world. I've had no end of updates with all sorts of equipment. Cars for example, nearly every car I've had in the last 10 years has had a software update. My year old Ford Transit motorhome went in for an update last month. Think how many Transits they sell a year.
The point of the Frsky system and OpenTX is its flexibility, and with that comes the drawback of needing updates. No different to cars, smartphones, computers or even smart TVs. Its only in real world use and feedback to the designers that we have the quality of the kit we have now at a price we can afford.
There are ways to mitigate some of the inconvenience. A simple one is to have an S Port lead permanently connected to each receiver. That way receiver updates are very simple no matter how deep the receiver is buried.
Another one is to standardise. One poster above has created a nightmare of different configurations with multiple different transmitters. With a 60 model memory one only needs one transmitter, and possibly a backup. Keep to your own standardisation of receivers by deciding which types will cover your modelling needs. I've tended to sell off the occasional odd one I bought, fleabay makes that easy, and someone is always prepared to pay over the odds. I've also sold of a couple of Frsky transmitters already.
Thirdly, keeps the system up to date. By this I don't mean update the first day an update comes out, but once its settled down, then update. (OpenTX 2.3 is a good example here). That way updating is straightforward, as there is usually plenty of current info on the web, and plenty of others around who have just done it to help. But try updating from a very old version and most have forgotten what they did so help is sparce. Winter time can be utilised to perform major updates that require quite a bit of work.
Lastly, update everything, don't leave some receivers on old firmware and then when you dust the model off months later wonder why the receiver won't work any more.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!