Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Taranis to Spektrum Trainer.|
I am all too well aware that there are various paths. I was simply trying to make the point that while technically it is straightforward, unless one party has a reasonable experience of OpenTX and of setting up models it can be difficult and frustrating. Much depends on how much time both instructor and pupil are prepared to spend in setting up the system.
I am also aware that making too big a hill to climb for a beginner could end up with the beginner walking away from the hobby.
A far simpler solution would be for the pupil to borrow a Spekky receiver, and use the Taranis as the slave transmitter for now.
I've been working with using computers with literally thousands of young and older for nearly 40 years, please don't lecture me on what either young people or older people can achieve!
Setting up a buddy system is in my docs too:
Section 9 "How to"
I still maintain that for a beginner who maybe understands very little of how any transmitter works, let alone OpenTX or for another club member who has no understanding of OpenTX, following either documentation or a video is going to prove difficult.
Its not just the trainer system but also about setting up the model correctly, and essential basic issues such as failsafes.
Remember guys, this is a beginner with a trainer and a Taranis transmitter, and nobody else in the club has a Taranis. I suspect your posts may well be too complex for the learner or for other club members.
Yes It can work though I've never personally tried it, the Taranis is incredibly flexible in the way it can buddy to other transmitters. Actually the Taranis could act as either master or slave, though I presume he has a FrSky receiver.
However, unless the newbie is particularly adept at programming OpenTX it may prove very difficult to set up unless you can find someone more experienced with OpenTX to set it up for him. The flexibility does make it more complex to set up.
|Thread: Wood galleon kit|
Not a swear word at all, I have a half finished one in the workshop awaiting time and a big dose of patience!
|Thread: Wireless Buddy range|
I too think this is the instructor's fault. No way should the instructor give you control as the student and then allow you to walk off to collect your model. Firstly he should have regained control as the master on the flight line and secondly you shouldn't walk onto the field with your transmitter, but left it at his side.
|Thread: June RCME|
June mag plonked through the letterbox yesterday. Great to see the beautiful model of the Bleriot featured, but what a shame that you have to read through to the third page of the review before you find out who built it. Surely this should have been included under the Title on the first page?
|Thread: New Hobbyking 40 amp ESC not working.|
It might help to say which transmitter/receiver you are using.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
Have to admit I'm curious about this, and I know BEB did something on this forum about it which involved a heated debate. I'm strongly leaning towards your way of thinking. Will put no side/down thrust on Peggy S.
B&Q don't sell M3 rod, and this is stainless steel which is tougher.
M4 rod would involve drilling out the motor back plate, and the nuts end up very close to the motor body. This is particularly difficult if one uses locking nuts as they have a greater depth.
Hmmm, I think the word is slowly! Currently very involved in family issues. I got the short kit of SLEC, and am on with the wings at the moment and all looking good. Putting small servos in each wing half rather than a crank system. Am thinking of dropping the battery at an angle from above by removing the wing. This will save a fiddly hatch somewhere, and give plenty of room for the current sensor which is about 6cm long and has to plug in between the battery and the ESC.
As for motor mounts, I have found by far the simplest way is M3 threaded rod made out of stainless steel and M3 locking nuts. This is about £2.50 per 20cm, and forms a very rigid mounting for this size of motor. This arrangement allows for any downthrust or sidethrust and to adjust the motor forward and backward to suit CofG. In a nosedive, the rods bend, but the motor usually remains undamaged. With this arrangement it is often better to test fly the plane without any cowl, and when all is correctly set up, then build one to make a perfect fit.
I've started Peggy Sue 2 and based on the weight of the plane I will be using a 650W motor with a 4S 3000. An underpowered electric plane will always be underpowered, but electric motors like to run at about 2/3 of maximum power, anything above that and you find a very steep current rise for very little more performance. Telemetry is really useful at times!
|Thread: New TV Channel|
Its been out for quite a while now, and does feature many British programmes too.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
I have converted a few plans and kits to electric, and BEB is, as usual quite correct. Almost invariably the battery is close to the bulkhead.
One feature I do, is to put a liteply tray from the front bulkhead to just behind the wings, usually about a third the way up the fuselage. This allows the ESC to sit under it close to the engine bulkhead with a hatch below, and as you have done, no formers until the middle of the wing. The small servos sit in this tray in roughly the same position as yours appear to be. The wing bolts can be incorporated in this tray too. This makes a tremendously strong fuselage with plenty of space to move the battery back and forward to get the CofG right. Its also worth considering the increasing use of current and voltage sensors with electric. This requires extra space behind the battery. In the picture below (this is a Galaxy/Pegasus Musketeer) the CofG is almost exactly on the position of the former behind the battery.
Edited By Andy48 on 03/05/2018 14:40:58
|Thread: Companion2.2 - Taranis X9D anomalies|
I Know. Mike already stated that above.
The missing slider issue is a known issue and is still an open issue to be resolved for version 2.2.2 when it comes out. Mike's answer will solve the problem for you, however.
On the simulator, the switches are now placed alphabetically. This is because OpenTX now supports so many different transmitters and some have their switches in different physical places.
|Thread: The shape of things to come.|
At under a tenner for a receiver though?
I think this new mini receiver also has the redundancy feature built in:
The latest 900MHz receiver from FrSky the R9 Mini. This receiver brings forth all the features of previous R9 receivers in an extremely compact and lightweight design. Super low latency and it supports the redundancy function to ensure your aircraft's safety. Ipex antenna connector makes it easy and quick to replace damaged antennas.
The other thing though is the price. The offer on at the moment is £7! Even with postage from China it is still under a tenner, and below the limit to get clobbered for import taxes and handling charges.
Edited By Andy48 on 26/04/2018 16:30:46
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