Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?|
The SD cards on the Horus are micro SD cards. No real problem to use the computer to copy from one to the other.
This documentation now covers the X10 and OpenTX. The most comprehensive documentation on OpenTX, and even covers installing OpenTX on the X10:
|Thread: Rule of thumb - motor weight v power capability|
The voltage rating makes a huge difference. A 4S battery will give a third more power than a 3S battery provided the motor is capable of taking 4S voltage.
Frankly the weight of the motor is of little concern.Compare the examples above to a Turnigy SK3 3532. That weighs 134g and has a power of 616watts. That's all with the same brand and type of motor. Go to a Turnigy G3 motor, 870kv with a wattage (peak) of 650, and that weighs 193g. There is just no sound correlation between weight and power, especially across brands.
I have a simple test rig (which cost less than a tenner to build) on which I can test a motor/ESC/battery/propeller combination and measure the static thrust as well as current consumption at various throttle settings. My own rule of thumb is simple, so long as the static thrust is at least equal to the actual weight of the plane, it will be more than powerful enough for most flying. I can check the current and consumption to see everything is well within working tolerances. Once its all tested and set up, it simply drops into the model with no further setting up and away I go.
|Thread: S6R & S8R Receivers|
Try switching off auto level when in a turn. I did this when I realised my model was turning too slowly to avoid flying over the pits. Thankfully I was high enough up to recover the sudden inverted downward flight!
However auto level is very useful for checking the function of the stabiliser at the start of a flying session as the control "stay" when you have the model at an angle. In stabilise mode they counter the change of direction so its not easy to see what they are doing.
|Thread: Rule of thumb - motor weight v power capability|
I think I would find a more reliable rule of thumb. e.g. take a Turnigy SK3 3548.
700kv, weight 167g, 547watts.
840kv, weight 174g, 750 watts
1050kv, weight 176g, 820watts
9g difference, but half as much power again!
|Thread: WOT4 Becomes Racing Car|
Yes there is. BEB uses a Taranis, and the current and voltage sensors available for OpenTX will give you precisely these readings.
The answer is to plug in the lipo voltage sensor to each model when you fly it, and set up a warning in OpenTX when the lowest cell drops below 3.4v (and critical battery level set at 3.2v). That way you would have instantly got a low battery warning when you opened the throttle. You were perhaps very lucky that the 2 failed cells were as bad as they were. Had they had a little more charge in them, you might have been able to take off then lost power whilst still low down.
I have every model with a SPort lead permanently plugged into its receiver, and then swap voltage and current sensors from model to model as I fly them.
|Thread: Horus X10S|
Masher, the How To covers updating the Taranis, the Horus is different.
Stephen the link is here:
See page 27 onwards of Section 8, The Horus Transmitters.
Yesterday I posted on this forum a link to my new documentation. Its all in there how to upgrade a X10 to OpenTX. Tried and tested.
|Thread: OpenTX 2.2 Documentation|
Documentation for OpenTX2.2 is now on line, and is free to use. It covers all the current FrSky transmitters, including the X10. It is now perhaps the most complete up-to-date set of documentation in one place with 240 pages of information. It is in pdf format which can be simply downloaded or downloaded and printed out.
For those of you who would like to know more about OpenTX, but perhaps don't want to commit to buying a transmitter, download the Getting Started section. This can be used using the OpenTX simulator which is also freely available to get a real flavour of the program.
|Thread: And now for something completely different|
See here for setting up a heli on OpenTX (download the How To section)
|Thread: FrSky & Helicopters|
Using OpenTX both transmitters are very capable with helis.
|Thread: Card version Error|
Sharp intake of breath at this point Bob.
|Thread: Model Black Box|
Which is exactly what OpenTX does as BEB said! Given that OpenTX transmitters start at £70, telemetry receivers at about £25, and most telemetry sensors swap easily between models and their individual cost is low, I think that actually meets your critieria.
I have actually used this on more than one occasion on a rather dubious crash. Was able to check flight battery cell by cell, receiver voltage, the position of all controls when I lost control, even the signal strength being received by the receiver. In the end, I was able to eliminate most things except pilot error.
Edited By Andy48 on 19/02/2018 19:32:46
This is not foolproof. Even if the Rx output to the servo is logged, it does not actually tell you what the response of the servo was.
|Thread: Open tx 2.2|
|OpenTX is completely different to this. Bob has, I think, identified the issues.|
|Thread: Coming back after 50 years: bit lost|
Now there's an interesting point. If you must never extend the ESC power leads to the battery, how do you use a wattmeter, because the wattmeter effectively extends the leads?
Almost all my models have extended leads, one or two significantly so. My Puppetter probably has nearly 30cm extensions. Yet to have the slightest problem, and yet to damage an ESC. Many of my ESCs are over 5 years old. Love these doom mongers!
|Thread: A Question for the Electric Cognoscenti.|
That doesn't tell you whether a low voltage cutoff has been set. If it hasn't then the motor can drain the battery below the level the receivers or servos will operate.
One would assume that the manufacturer does set up the ESC, but they may not have done, or the LVC may have been set too low so that the receiver still cut out.
Basically use either the programming card for the make/model of ESC to program it correctly, or use the documentation for it to check the settings as a series of long/short bleeps. However, there is rarely any documentation for RTF ESCs, or to know which programming card to use.
I take it you never checked the LVC on your plane then?
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