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Member postings for Foxfan

Here is a list of all the postings Foxfan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Autumn is here...you been flying ?
05/12/2019 12:18:34

Wish it was at our field. Weather's lovely, but access track is a quagmire and can't be used. Too far to walk for me!

Martin

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
27/11/2019 17:33:01

I think I would use ball races as the flatter wheel and simply make new upper anvils (wheels) on my lathe and mount them on smaller ball races. I must give it some thought.

Martin

27/11/2019 17:25:20

That's the kind of thing I have. Just a slightly bigger base. Useless for models except it's excellent for removing digs and dents in older sheets of material! A rather OTT use for such a machine, but a miniature would be good, or are you saying that IS a miniature, being Chronos and all that?

Martin

27/11/2019 16:17:56

My full sized one was a fair bit dearer than that, but my dear bride considered it a splendid present and so it was, but part way through building my Austin 7 Special I lost all my storage and had to get rid of it all. The wheel is all that remains along with a large box of hand coachbuilding hammers, dollies, etc. I occasionally use them on my son's 1951 Triumph Renown, but they are largely unused.

I suppose with a miniature wheel should come a miniature stump for starting the process. Hmmm, getting more complicated!

Martin

27/11/2019 16:09:47

One problem with making a miniature English wheel is deciding what range of anvils and base wheels to have in order to be of any real use. I had considered for my model cars just scaling a full size wheel as the curves would all be in scale to the model panels. I really think it might be a suitable project to consider making.

M

27/11/2019 14:56:13

I think you would have to make a small English wheel, Danny. I have often thought about doing one based on a cast iron G cramp, but these days have little need for it. And even less for the lovely hardly used full sized one I have!

I havce used K&S ally to make a complete Morgan 3 wheeler body in 1/32nd scale and have just made a model of John Bolster's Bloody Mary hillclimb Special in the same material, including the "radiator surround". Once again beaten over a steamed pear pattern, so it will definitely go round tight shapes, without annealing.

Martin

27/11/2019 12:58:52

I use the thin ally sheet from K&S metal centre for making cowls and blisters. It is a most malleable, yet crisp sheet and always gives me an excellent result. I make a pattern (hammer form) in steamed pear, then hammer it with a piece of lignum vitae held in the palm. The flange is then turned up with smooth faced pliers. Trim with files. Dummy rivets punched in with a model railway style riveting machine. Flush rivets made with a tool for doing plastic model kits.

Martin

Thread: JB Weld
19/11/2019 00:46:55

The only thing it won't stick is polythene, like everything else. If your fuselage is styrene or more likely ABS, give it a good scratch up for a key and you'll be fine.

If it can stick the magnesium sump of a Maserati 4.5Litre V8 in a Cooper Racing car it can mend a toy aeroplane!

Martin

18/11/2019 23:13:05

Indeed, a coloured second half would help on some epoxies. JBWeld off the 'net is probably, like most things, much cheaper. I paid over £4 for a tube of Evo-Stik from a shop (the only one in a large town) because I had to have some to finish a job, but my wife then got me 5 packs for the equivalent of £2-50 a tube off ebay. That is why shops are dying. I know the online shops have no overheads, but £4 for a tube is stupid. If it was £3 I would stick with the shop, but £4? No, too much extra.

Give it a little heat. I put some on a model car last night, put it under the lamp today and it's hard as rock now. brass on plastic.

M

18/11/2019 21:24:13

Like epoxies generally it will react well to a gentle heat. A desk lamp with a proper bulb, not one of those silly spaghetti things. 30 watts in an Anglepoise will do nicely. Works a treat on Milliput too. Milliput won't go fully hard without some heat.

Martin

18/11/2019 18:15:19

Just make sure you mix the Hell out of it and when you think you're done, mix it some more! Like all epoxies in fact, but that's the only safety measure for getting a great result. The beauty of one black one white resin is that mixing means a nice even grey is your best guide.

Best of luck.

Martin

18/11/2019 00:18:39

Milliput is not an adhesive and the slightly different newer formula is even less adhesive (except on your hands). Believe me I make whole model cars from it. I'm on my 7th pack this year. I know Milli.

JBWeld, however, is massively strong and very workable. I know racing car restorers who use it where no other repair has done the job. Engine blocks and even cylinder heads repaired with it . ON RACING CARS!!!

If you can't heat the joint enough for solder, then JBWeld is the answer. I was using it just this evening to glue brass to plastic where there was no room for even a small screw.

BTW, solder won't corrode. It's uncleaned flux that corrodes. My Dad was a proper craftsman plumber and would solder zinc and lead flat roofs, using a half pint blowlamp, a stick of tinman's solder and a tallow pad, but was always very careful to clean the joint thoroughly.

Martin

Thread: Autumn is here...you been flying ?
09/11/2019 19:04:41

We seem to be lucky here. Our field's track is closed, but the field itself for them as wants a walk is fine. Today was chilly but sunny all day as is tomorrow forecast to be and a few more days too. The benefits of living in the East, driest part of Britain. Just nowhere to slope! We've had some overnight rain, but I've been outside spraying models daytime for several days

M

09/11/2019 17:03:13

Erfolg, that seems like a lot of faff. My batteries are all in the indoors workshop which is heated as much as the other rooms.

I was more wondering about so called storage voltages, etc.

Martin

09/11/2019 16:46:54

Haha, I have enough trouble getting my aircraft and boxes in the car, much less a golf trolley!

We need the local ME club to provide us with a raised electric railway from the lane to the flying field. AGM Tuesday, I'll suggest it!

Martin

09/11/2019 14:46:12

Being noo, what does one do about batteries? I have 2 x700mAh Lipos and 2200 3s and a brand new set of Eneloops for the Rx. Not to mention dry cells in one Spektrum and a LiFe battery in the other. No idea what to do.

I'd fly, but can't make the long walk down the muddy track carrying aircraft, TX case and flight box! Too far, iffy leg.

M

Thread: Is it just me or do we all take ages to do things?
08/11/2019 10:40:10

I used to do it for a living and the sooner I finished, the sooner I could invoice and start the long wait for payment. I'm still quick. Great Planes Electri-Cub...3 afternoons from the kit. Alongside household chores, shopping and other model stuff.

Martin

Thread: Spares for my Mini drill
08/11/2019 10:15:10

I bought a Proxxon on a deal once and the speed control went napoo after just three weeks! I just took it out and wired the thing direct...flat out. Been doing flat out ever since and I mill brass with a dental burr in the chuck and have been for over thirty years! Still going strong, as is its transformer.

Martin

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
04/11/2019 19:04:38

Or scrape it off with a chisel or wash it off with hot, soapy water. Been there a few times, done that.

 

Martin

Edited By Foxfan on 04/11/2019 19:04:58

Thread: Favourite clear gloss?...
28/10/2019 19:41:34

Hello all,

Before I go and get another litre of my favourite Lechlers Akrifan clear gloss one shot, can I ask if anyone here has a favourite for glossing up a model and protecting the decals, etc.? I ask because I also do a lot of slot cars for people and need to use a tough clear that isn't going to argue with paints and decals, something "cool" that I can spray for a good finish, preferably enamel or polyurethane and in a tin from somewhere less expensively. Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Martin

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