Here is a list of all the postings Foxfan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
So, Jon, what is a good solvent/cleaner for castor in your experience?
|Thread: Lidl glider conversion|
I have converted a Lidl glider to R/C. It is a pitcheron with a Blue wonder motor and a 700 3S battery. I tried to fly it today and it went straight up even on a partial throttle! Before I could do anything but shut the throttle it flipped over and nosed in breaking the nose off.
I think the prop was too big. Can anyone say from experience what size prop would suit this little, but powerful motor.
Also, having glued it back together at the field, the motor wouldn't do anything but buzz and soon, nothing. Switched it all off, switched on again, 1/8th of a turn in the wrong direction and nothing. The shaft seems fine. the prop saver worked. Can the ESC (which was new) be affected like that after a fairly soft nose-in?
|Thread: Litho plate substitute?|
I'm sure you could find a traditional offset litho printer who would have spare sheets, but if not, try K&S Metal Centre's aluminium sheet. It is wonderfully malleable and only slightly thicker than litho plate. Available in most toy/model shops. I have used it to make scoops, blisters and all the more difficult shapes on a 1/12th scale model of the record boat Miss Britain III, no annealing necessary.
|Thread: Batteries during no use times...|
Torsten, many thanks. I'm sure even I could follow that!
My charger is an iMax B6, but the instructions are useless!
I'm a little worried about my Eneloop, Lipo and LiFe batteries during this period of disuse. How do I discharge batteries and should they be recharged partially? In which case how do I do that? My charger can discharge and storage charge, but only for people who speak fluent Chenglish. I can't make head nor tail of it.
|Thread: Chrome covering|
Your the only one who seems to have taken umbridge. I explained that I was looking for a covering and that could be chrome film. In my first post I was not aware if such existed. I was merely assuming as I have seen aircraft covered in something very bright. Ken helpfully proved there is with his Pushy cat pics.
Everyone else has offered their experiences, all helpful, but I do NOT want to use paint, whatever some of you think, that's where the discussions seems to be happening. Argue all you want, but I won't use paint to represent aluminium. I was just asking if some kind of covering would work for that and still be safe for radio. The upshot I have taken is that as long as the aerial ?s is/are outside you have a chance.
I mhave already thanked those who answered. Maybe in your rush to score forum points you missed that. Maybe you could get tested and return to work. You clearly have too much time on your hands.
I really have had enough of this forum finally.
Litho plate is free, from printers! I have sheets of it. But it's not easy to use. Foils are very cheap, but require a very good base substrate, but are what I use on model cars and static model aircraft. It would be those rather than chrome films that I would use and I'm sure glassing would be necessary for getting the right substrate for foiling.
There is a very usable aluminium solder now which is easy to use, if making special silencers, cowlings, etc.
Yes I was not necessarily asking about plastic film as such, but rather "covering" more generally, which, yes, includes Iron-ons, although I wasn't aware they did a chrome. I don't like chrome, but I don't like paint either. I would always counsel the use of foils, no matter how good paints might get. I was not poo-pooing the bove pics. They are very good, but only in so far as they are paint.
Not bad, if that's paint, but the quality is more suggested by the realism of panel by panel changes of tone. For a basic mill finish they're not bad for paint, but will never look like aluminium. Some, like Alclad (what a steal of a brand name!), but it's a huge faff and doesn't always work and doesn't like being handled or clear coated or Molotow chrome (fine for small details) can be fairly convincing, but if you want metal, make it of metal, even if it's just a covering.
Edited By Foxfan on 03/04/2020 13:53:06
Alan, glassing and painting will never look like polished ally! However the brushed aluminium sounds good. I have seen several Ercoupes in a dullish mill finish ally, rather than the unbelievably time consuming polished version. The Spartan Executive at Little Gransden is almost too bright to look at! I have covered 1/32nd scale slot cars in Sellotape Aluminium foil and they look fine, so natural metal in the MUCH larger model aircraft scales is fine if properly done.
Thanks to all for the warnings and the solutions.
Thanks Ken, I like that Pushykat. Are there plans?
As, let's face it, is yours, Callsign, by definition.
Sounds like you've been lucky according to everyone else.
Do you have the aerials outside or in the canopy?
Thanks, Ken, will do.
Thanks, Ken, will do.
thanks. I was thinking how it's not so easy, with very short aerials to keep both poking out. Would a second satelite Rx. be a good idea in this situation?
in this time of stay in and think of what you'd like to build and fly, I'm seriously considering an Ercoupe. I've liked them since one used to fly over us when I was a kid and I identified it from my Observer's Book of Aircraft.
Now, they look great in natural metal (what doesn't), so I'm thinking it would need covering in chrome film, but what is opinion generally of radio signal corruption with shiny birds?
|Thread: Manual for a three year old DX7|
I've downloaded to store, Don.
Shaun, I don't possess a mobile 'phone. I have no need for one.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!