Here is a list of all the postings trevor wood 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Best translucent wing covering|
I have a number of slopers with open structure wings (albeit with sheeted leading edges) that are covered with HK solid coloured heat shrink. I can't think of any occasion where "normal" landing on long grass/scrub/heather has caused tears or punctures to the covering. The translucent heat shrink seems to be just as puncture resistant as the solid colours.
The Hobbyking translucent film (when you can get it) is easy to apply and remains wrinkle free when exposed to sunlight. This afternoon I've just finished a lock-down Vic Smeed Popsie finished in yellow with black Solarfim trim. as you can see, the structure is clearly visible under the covering. Recommended.
|Thread: Super Scale Avro Anson|
If you want to produce something that approximates to an Avro XIX you will also have to change the wing and tailplane shapes. These later marks of Anson had metal skinned wings with more taper on the outer panels and narrower tips.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Piers, there's just a touch of up thrust (between 1 and 2 degrees), and the ailerons are rigged with 3mm T/E up to provide a little reflex. It flew so well on its first flight that I'm reluctant to change the aerodynamic config too much, so for the time being the central fin stays.
With the arrival of the first spell of fine weather for what seems like months, ii went down to the field this morning with a couple of models that had patiently been waiting for their maiden flights. Surprisingly, I was the only person there, so no in-flight shots.
The first was a Wot 4 foamie "clone" that was created from a cracked wing and motor cowl "jigsaw puzzle" donated by a fellow modeller. The fuselage and fin/tailplane were my first attempt at building with Depron, and went easier than anticipated. As you have probably guessed already, it flies just like a Wot4.
The second maiden was my "Messerschmitt Me901 Ente". This is an own design canard that uses Nigel Hawes' Candoo as inspiration. The "Ente" is about 50% larger than the Candoo and weighs just over 4lbs. And is therefore fitted with tricycle landing gear. It ihas nose wheel steering, a centrally mounted aileron servo, and a pair of elevator servos, so flying requires the 'bank and yank' approach. For the first flight there was no mixing used, but I will probably change the forward surfaces to elevons in due course. Power ones from a cheap HK donkey out runner, a 4S 2200 lipo and 3 bladed 9x6 prop ( to ensure sufficient ground clearance).
A series of fast taxy tests just before Christmas showed that directional stability was marginal, and uncommanded pitch up suggested the CG was too far aft. Before the first actual flight, I fitted a third, centre line fin and moved the battery much further forward. The CG is now 4.5 " in front of the main plane LE ( just in line with the number 8).
The actual first flight was a lot less exciting than I anticipated, but it didn't prevent the knees from knocking for the first few minutes. Pitch and roll trim were perfect and the only change I made during the flight was to increase the aileron rates from the conservative setting used at take-off. The first approach was rock steady but a little high. I could probably managed to land, but chose the sensible option and powered up for a second circuit . The second approach was much like the first but I reduced power to zero as the plane came over the fence. This produced a nice flat descent that was arrested with touch of up elevator and smidgen of power resulting in a short roll out on the soggy field.
|Thread: Raptors in BBC Countryfile|
Not Raptors, but a feature on "one of the oldest model aeroplane flying clubs in the country"' to be broadcast on Countryfile at 6pm, Sunday 15th December. Apologies if this info has already been posted elsewhere on the forum.
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
Having spent most of my time so far working on the fuselage, I decided a change was needed so had a look at the wings. BEB had made the sensible decision to group all the wing wiring onto a multi pin socket firmly attached to the centre section. This will simplify wing attachment when preparing the model for flight. I thought it prudent to undertake a continuity test of the wiring as it was more than 5 years since this had been installed. I connected the multi pin plug into the socket and then attached a servo tester and battery to each of the flying leads in turn. The ailerons and landing gear checked out OK, but only the RH bomb release functioned correctly, the LH one just made a buzzing noise as though the servo had stalled. When I loosened the release attachment screws and retested the releases, the buzzing noise was reduced but I saw the RH side move forward as the LH side moved rearwards.
At this point the only conclusion I could come up with was that the sevos had been installed as mirror images as you would for twin aileron servos and not in the same orientation as you find with twin flap servos. BEB had posted a photo of the RH side when he was constructing the wing, which showed the servo was intended to be permanently attached with no provision for easy removal. Using this photo plus the TN build plans I was fairly certain where the LH servo was located. After thinking about it for a while and failing to come up with any alternative course of action, I marked the top skin and cut out a rectangle about 2" x 2". Fortunately, the servo position was a mirror image of the RH side so fixing the problem was looking as though it would be easy.
I removed the two attachment screws and tried to lift the servo, but it wouldn't budge. It appeared that BEB had used the "screwed and glued" method of attachment (and why not - it was never meant to be removed). Access was limited with little chance of levering it to break the glue joint, so I got out a small razor saw and started to cut off the attachment lugs. After removing the outboard lug I managed to twist the sego sufficiently to separate the LH lug from the bearer. It was then a simple task to turn the servo through 180deg and reattach with a screw on one side and a balsa wedge on the other side that was CA'd to the adjacent inboard rib. Having struggled to get the sevo out, I was confident that this method attachment would be more than strong enough.
I then tidied up the edges of the aperture by cutting at a 45deg angle rather than vertically, and made a matching closure panel with 45deg chamfers. This method was described by Danny Fenton in his Chipmunk build articles that appeared in RCM&E a few years ago when he needed to repair the landing gear attachment. It allows the cover to be dropped into place without falling into the void and provides an increased gluing area. A light sanding and one more job was ticked of the list.
Bob, I thought I might be pushing the motor a bit too much, and your calcs show that is more than likely. I was at Weston on Saturday and found some Master Airscrew 15x7 3 blades. By the time I've rounded off the tips they are likely to be 14.5 x 7, so that could be one solution. As you say, TN flew his on 800W, although it was a bit lighter than mine is likely to end up. I'm aiming for no more than 1000W, which should be achievable with the 15x7 perhaps with a bit of end point adjustment on the throttle to limit the power.
Trevor, I'm also thinking of using a 500kv motor (a Propdriive 4258 from HK) with a 3 blade prop. HK's 16 x 8 with the tips rounded off looks to be about right, but only a watt meter will prove whether that's true. I understand your warnings about keeping an eye on the weight, especially at the back end and the electric scales have a reserved parking spot on the work bench for this project. Because the prop is possibly a little larger than the norm for this model, I'm going for a 5s Lipo rather than a 6s. I made some cardboard 'space models' of batteries in the 3,500 to 4,000 mAh range but couldn't get them to fit through the radiator opening. I was reluctant to leave them in the model for charging, so came up with a plan B.
Robotbirds had some 2,600mAh/35c lipos on offer which would just fit through the cowl and lie horizontally below the motor. Better still there was space for two of them, so connected in parallel I will have a 5200 set up that should give flight times approaching 8 minutes.
Dale, thanks for the link to your build. It's confirmed my thoughts/fears of the importance of weight control. As you've read above, I've already made a start saving every gramme, and like you, intended to make a built up rudder in place of the solid 1/2" sheet one shown on the plans. My servos and Rx will be fitted to a shelf immediately behind F1. I've got space for a 2s Lion battery and UBEC immediately below the motor. I like your method for installing the cannons, and will borrow that for my model. I noted that you said the taxiing was 'interesting' with a fully castoring tail wheel, so I plan to fit a short link rod from the rudder control horn to provide tail wheel steering (yes, an extra 3 or 4 grammes just where you don't want it!).
With the airframe mostly complete and most of the electrics now sourced I put everything on the scales, and making an allowance for glassing and painting, I have a target AUW of 8.5lbs, plus whatever amount of lead is needed to get the CG into the acceptable range.
The observant amongst you may have noticed that something had been overlooked in the last photograph; I had (another) senior moment and forgot to install the elevator joiner before completing all the reskinning and fillet work. This was in spite of the clear warnings included in TN's original build instructions that appeared in RCM&E. I was now faced with drilling an accurate hole close and parallel to the hinge line. The space limitations meant I couldn't even use a conventional pin drill to make the hole. After a few moments thought l made my own pin drill by epoxying a short length of discarded aerial tube onto a piece of snake outer. The end of the aerial tube was roughed using a hack saw blade and then pressed into position and the snake rotated between finger and thumb. The flexible snake acts as a universal joint and allows the clearance necessary to rotate the tool by hand.
With the hole drilled , a length of 12swg piano wire was bent into a right angle at one end and slipped into place. The next job was something I wasn't looking forward to - trying to bend another right angle on the other end without damaging the balsa. I gripped the wire very tightly in some mole grips, slipped an extension tube over the end of the wire and pulled. I was lucky and ended up with a good bend.
|Thread: Bryant Percival Gull 6 E conversion|
You seem to have all the bases covered; a good motor installation and easily accessible battery will make it easy to prepare for flight when you take it to the field. Also, that motor should be reasonably unstressed at the quoted max power level. It should give the Gull very acceptable performance. I'm sure that Cindy will be very happy!
|Thread: Dambusters Raid|
Interesting radio series by the Australian Broadcasting Company from 65 years ago telling the story of the Dambusters raid, and what 617sqn did next. Much better than listening to Radio 4's 'Book at Bedtime'
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
With the fuselage snakes installed, I was now able to reattach the tailplane using expanding Gorilla glue after carefully sanding one side of the seat to make it level and square. The area around the attachment was covered with masking tape and I used only sufficient glue to minimise any excess needing removal after it had foamed and set. Thanks to Craig and Robin, the iPad photos illustrating the work can now be displayed in the correct orientation.
Whilst the tailplane was, subjectively, the right weight for its size, the fin just felt too heavy even though it only weighed 28grammes. I decided to make a replacement in the hope I could save some weight.
The original was 12mm thick and made from thre laminations of balsa (4.5mm/3mm/4.5mm). I constructed a central frame from 6mm square balsa which was covered in 3mm sheet. Once sanded to shape the new fin produced a magnificent saving of 11grammes. Whilst this may not seem much, the short forward fuselage of the Typhoon produces a 6 to 1 moment ratio and therefore means that 66 grammes less lead will be needed in the nose to achieve the correct CG.
To finish off the tailplane structure, a couple of balsa fillets were attached to the inboard end of the elevator aperture.
I've just been playing with the iPad photo edit feature. If you rotate 180 deg and save, then rotate another 180 deg and save (ie. the photo in the iPad now reverts to being the correct way up), when you upload it to this site it no longer inverts. Success, but why?
Craig, thanks for the info. It all made eminent sense, but guess what....... I uploaded an inverted photo from my iPad album and, infuriatingly, it also appeared inverted in this forum's album!
I've turned the screen upside down with the screen rotation locked and unlocked and taken photographs, but in both configurations the actual photo recorded on the iPad is always displayed correctly orientated. Perhaps Apple should develop their technology and incorporate it into a Rx as a 'panic mode' anti-crash feature!
Since collecting the model, t's been residing in the corner of the workshop whilst I finished a couple of HK laser cut kits. With the bench clear of clutter I decided to have a closer inspection of the airframe so I could decide what still needed completing and to plan a work schedule for later in the year. Well, you know what it's like; one thing leads to another, and before you could say "quick set epoxy" I was in to the build process.
The first thing that caught my eye was the tailplane. In BEB's earlier posts he described in some detail the care he took to ensure the incidence was correct, and the surface was correctly aligned. However, a quick eyeball check suggested the RH tip was 7 or 8mm higher and further forward than the LH tip. Hoping this was an optical illusion, I got hold of a tape measure, spirit level, string and set square to double check. No matter which way I measured the alignment, the results were the same - it wasn't mounted squarely. So realising it wasn't going to fix itself, I got hold of the razor saw, put a new blade in the scalpel and took a deep breath.
About 20 minutes later I had completed a successful fin and tailplanectomy.
I was able to take further advantage of this situation and instal the snakes that BEB only realised he had overlooked as he applied the last pieces of fuselage sheeting. He signed off his post with the famous words " it'll be alright. Trust me, I'm an engineer". Well I'm an engineer too, and trust me when I say that installing them was a real struggle. Cutting the holes in the fuselage sides was easily achieved using a section of old aerial as a boring tool. However I wanted to ensure the snakes were adequately supported along their length to prevent buckling when compressive loads were applied. Access to former immediately forward of the tailplane cut-out was through an aperture about 3/4" wide by 1 1/2" long. An hour and multiple failed attempts later, I had a snake support bridging the former.
The next former was more easily accessed through the wing cut out, but it was still located about 8 " aft of the trailing edge and so took another half hour to attach the support. However with that completed I was satisfied that there would be no unintended control slop.
Apologies for the inverted photos. It just seems to be an occupational hazard of using an iPad on some sites. Any IT advice to rectify the problem is appreciated.
Next time, re-attaching the fin/tailplane and finishing the fuselage sheeting.
I stumbled on this thread a couple of weeks ago whilst looking for BEB's Wot4XL rebuild info. It made great bed time reading, particularly the historical instalments. I was saddened when I reached the last page to learn that BEB hadn't managed finish and fly the model, and that it was now for sale.
Out of curiosity, I looked at the eBay listing and saw that bids had only just reached £90. A quick check of the TN Design web page showed the price of the plans, wood packs and mouldings was £191. With the retracts, oleos, wheels and sevos the total was probably closer to £300, so it was fair to assume that a final auction price would be in the region of £150, particularly when the models provenance was taken into account. A quick glance into my hangar ( the upstairs box room) showed there was no more space for something the size of a Typhhoon, but caught up in all the excitement, I made a silly maximum bid of £100, expecting to be sniped during the last minute..
Long story short, the snipers must have run out of ammunition and I ended up with the winning bid. I collected the model at the weekend, and was surprised to learn that it was being sold by a non-modeller who had obtained it at another auction as part of a job lot.
A quick examination showed the Typhoon condition was very much as it appeared in BEB's photograph of New Year's Eve 2013. The plan now is to carry on with the build, although initial progress will be intermittent until the 2019 building season starts in earnest later in the year.
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