Here is a list of all the postings Stuart Rusby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Hi Ernie. That is kind of you. Perhaps you would lighten the background, I think the diamond was off-white, so the colours of the cock would also be stronger.
Perhaps you would PM the final version to me in as high a resolution as the transmission allows.
I thought if I get a number of the class interested we could keep the price of decals etc. within bounds!
Thanks Danny. Yes, I have looked on your flicker pages and one or two of the cock images would be fine if I could download/save the emblem alone. I was hoping you would do it for me as I don't know how to select part of the total image and then save it ...
Sorry about my lack of technical ability!
I have been in touch with Nigel Wagstaff of Flightline Graphics re the possibility of him providing decals etc. of K5674 at Duxford. He says this is possible but he would particularly need a detailed image of the cock on the fin of K5674 to do a good job.
I wonder if Martyn, Tony, Danny or any other member could PM me any such image and I will pass it on to Nigel.
He has recently moved house so there will be a delay before the new workshop is up and running..
I have given him a few images of my own to start him thinking...
Any ideas about getting the 'Mercury' wing fasteners (or similar) shown on the plan?
I have been doing a bit of research regarding wing-rigging accessories. It maybe of interest to some members of the gang...
I found the following:
1. Prime-Miniatures (www.prime-miniatures.co.uk) for:
shackles, turnbuckles, eyebolts, Al swaging ferrules, miniature 7x7 stainless steel wire rope, etc.
2. Model Shop Leeds (www.modelshopleeds.co.uk) for:
Sullivan gold-n-clevises and Dubro 4-40 rigging couplers.
3. Topmodel (French) (www.topmodel.fr) for:
miniature turnbuckles etc.
4. Tecni (www.tecni.uk) for:
double copper swaging ferrules for miniature wire rope
5. Vogelsang Aeroscale (USA) for:
miniature cable thimbles, etc.
I can recommend the Prime-Miniatures steel wire rope; it is a miniature 7x7 construction and surprisingly flexible. I wouldn't think it would need thimbles. The Sullivan clevises are high quality with a safety-lock, but they need the Dubro 4-40 thread couplers (not metric).
Anyway just a thought...
Thanks for your comments Danny. The hinge line actually isn't outside the trailing edge, what you are seeing is the slightly curved carbon rod external to the wingtip. When the wing is finally covered this will be cut off and 'tacked' to S2 where it lies in a V-groove.
The ailerons do hinge freely and the gaps look OK.
Many thanks for the advice on F6, I will 'fettle away' and I'm sure it will fit.
The aileron construction went OK, if somewhat laborious. As you may see from the photo I fitted a 1.5mm carbon rod to act as the shaft for the hinges, threaded through a v-cut in the back of the 1/2 inch balsa curved shrouds. To ensure correct alignment of the aileron with the wing the rod was threaded before I glued the hinges in place. Any ideas about securing the outboard end of it will be welcome!
As you can see I went to town on the wing servos, having experienced too much 'chatter' from some cheaper makes.
Following Andy's good example I will fit webs to the wing spars, particularly as they are of balsa.
I have completed the wings so I have started on the fuselage - problem is I am confused about F6. You were good enough to draw up a revised layout for F6 but I see that Andy has fitted the shaped former shown on the plan and Graham LL in his valuable description of his Fury build does not mention any problem with F6.
Hence my dilemma!
Any help appreciated,
Many thanks Andy for all the trouble you took to show me so clearly your intended layout of the wing servo mounting. Because the drive axis is at right angles to the bellcrank axis the end of the servo arm will be below the wing covering and the drive to the aileron horn will be roughly parallel to the underside of the wing. This geometry should be OK, I think, although the horn arm will be at an angle to this drive shaft..
I have used Hitec HS-85MG wing servos on my 1/6th scale Mick Reeves Spitfire to good effect after I had problems with cheaper 'Chinese' servos. The new MacGregor MG2611WHV 11Kg.cm high voltage looks very interesting, also its slightly smaller twin the MG2107WHV 6.6Kg.cm version. They would appear to have a high quality specification.
Andy, Danny kindly sent a copy of your method of mounting the wing servos. What servos would you recommend ?
I have been looking at flat wing servos, they seem powerful enough but I am unsure about the servo arm length I can fit in. Any tips welcomed...
I was perusing the Peter Warburg drawings taken from the original Hawker Siddeley Fury1 production drawings (approved by Sidney Camm) and came across the following useful wing info:
Top wing: dihedral 1 degree, incidence 3 degree 20 minutes
Bottom wing: dihedral 3 degrees 30 minutes, incidence 3 degrees 50 minutes.
I shall 'press on' with using litho, I love the really shiny parts of the Fury.
Capstrip bending worked a treat Gordon. Used a 1/2in dowel.
Many thanks Gordon and Danny. I will get my old pen into action!
Danny, whats a good way to attach the capstrips to the wing ribs, re bending, glueing and securing?
I have pinned 1/8th balsa strips between each rib position on the plan to raise the lower wing spars so that the wing lies flat and so the ribs don't touch the plan. I have also introduced 1.5mm dia carbon rod into the trailing edge to try and reduce any warping - I am not sure if this will achieve anything!
I'm impressed with the quality and accuracy of the Sarik wood components.
I am ready to send off the litho plates to the following:
William 2W, Richard Mallam, Martyn K, McG 6969, and David Avery.
Please give me your adresses, cost is £10.
Thanks Ernie - they really are things of beauty and like Martian I think I will hang them on the wall and retire from all this sound and fury...
Thanks for the response thus far on my litho offer. When I have sorted out how to safely package the plates I will contact each of you with the price. I had hoped to use cardboard tubes but a little experimentation showed that the plates were vulnerable to damage when putting them in and removing them. I think the better way is to use stiff-backed envelopes and three different samples are being sent for me to try. It will not be possible to send such large plates by post, the 'large parcel' cost is too great so I plan to cut them in half - so you get 6 for the price of 2! I expect the cost of packaging plus postage will work out at about a tenner (except for our Belgian friend!).
The plates have been used so most of them have an advertising image on the emulsion side which can easily be removed with spirit or solvent. This leaves the grey substrate which is very securely bonded to the aluminium. There is no need to try and remove this since a range of glues, including epoxies, superphatic and zap, adhere very well to it.
If any other members would like to join the lithographers do let me know, plates are available...
Thanks Ernie, I look forward to admiring all the bits...
For those thinking of going down the litho route I have some 450x520mm aluminium sheets, 0.15mm thick. They should be good for forming the plating over the engine cowl and also the fuselage sides. With some annealing they should also be OK for making the blisters on the engine cowl.
If anyone is interested then let me know. Cost would be just for packaging plus postage. Depending on the response I can provide 2 or 3 sheets each.
Hope this helps,
My apologies, Ernie, I have sent you a message with my address.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!