Here is a list of all the postings Fatscoleymo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: adhesive for hinges|
I've been using canopy glue with Robart hinges for years - never had a problem. Much easier than epoxy. A quick rub with sandpaper before fitting.
Edited By Fatscoleymo on 25/04/2020 07:51:51
|Thread: NEW POLL - do you use a throttle kill switch?|
Arming switch and kill switch. Use a kill switch on IC as well.
|Thread: Mounting servos between ribs|
As KC suggests. I have used Hot Melt glue for decades now - never had one come loose. Don't even bother with the masking tape - just rough up the side of the servo. Easy to prise off if ever needing to change or use in another model.
|Thread: Grass Cutting|
John Stones - gawd bless you my son - you do talk a lot of common sense - which we need in bucket full's at the moment.
|Thread: How to remove glue from ARTF before recovering....|
Now you tell me!!!
Got it all done using Isopropanol - Isopropyl Alcohol. Mind-numbingly tedious.
What worked for me was using cotton sheet offcuts (donated willingly by swimbo) - apply solvent to one cloth and rub a small area, then use another clean cloth to remove residue. Repeat at least twice for each area then move on. Change both cloths frequently as they both pick up glue and redistribute it...…. Then go back over everything, check and do 50% again....
Bert - It's no good leaving the residue on as it is too tacky to apply film over - the film would stick to areas in 'the middle' before it had been shrunk.
Presently finishing off the addition of flaps, then will be ready to recover.
As the title suggests. I have almost completed stripping back a HK Giant Stik that was covered in that self adhesive very brittle covering. Looked good but punctured extremely easily and had become 50% patches. I will recover in HK film which I am assured is good stuff.....but the adhesive residue left on all surfaces is very sticky. Can anybody offer any pointers as to what will best remove it?
|Thread: Charging LiFePo4 batteries|
Beg to disagree Don...NIMH AA are all I use, just use a wall wart charger and never had a problem....all I do is check them the day before I am going to fly and top them up...easy peasey...
|Thread: Martyn's Chippie RCAF 671|
Lovely job Martyn....definitely going to finish mine this winter....
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
|Thread: OS MAX 46 FX - what are they like?|
Powerful engines, but they suffered from the coating on the liner 'de-laminating'.
Worth pulling it apart to check.
|Thread: Fresh petrol in a lawnmower every season?|
I've never had problem in 14 years leaving petrol in over the winter in both ride on and hand mowers - they start ok in the spring. But I have had a problem twice when the ride on was left with an empty tank and the feed hose dried out, cracked and had to be replaced. No other fuel related issues at all. Plenty of others though...
That Lee Richards design looks like the 'toilet seat' guitar that Ronnie Woods played on one of The Faces TOTP appearances....maybe Ronnie was an Aeromodeller?...….or....maybe Lee Richards was really Keith Richards and he loaned Ronnie his model?......it's late..I'll get my coat...
With a shot up rudder like that, the Fury might end up in a Pear Tree...very nice effort Ernie..
|Thread: How to build an engine test stand|
For throttle I just use a bit of piano wire suitably bent with clevis or z bend on the throttle end, and fed through rubber bands around the tank...easily tweaked for different engines. Bands hold it firmly enough. Seems like a lot of trouble to mount servo, then rx. then battery, then switch..and then you need tx.. A servo tester would be simpler if you wanted to use a servo..
|Thread: Glow Sticks|
No...of course not..... apologising to Don for 'making public' that he destroyed his Cub after taking off with the wrong model selected....while my glow stick was still attached....he's over it now....
Ron Gray - that glow driver you linked to is $129!!! What's that? about £100?
Nothing, but nothing needs to be that expensive to start a glow engine, or save having to go to all the trouble to have to charge it more than once a year, or to save blowing plugs (how many plugs can you buy for £80). And I just cannot image ever having to start a glow engine under water. Still, each to their own.....a bog standard el cheapo glowstick does it everytime for me...had them for years and years.. even the one my mate left attached to his cub which then piled in due to mismatched model and tranny..kept on working.. Must be having a grumpy day methinks
|Thread: extension leads|
Andrew, not sure why you are asking about the crimp? You will be using new leads, so plugs should be fine.... If you want plug them into a servo tester to check them before you extend. Leads and extension cable from Hobbyking / Bangood if you can wait (no delivery charges from Bangood no matter what the value of the order I believe) otherwise ebay or any number of retailers.
Buy a bunch of short extension leads for next to 'nowt and a 'roll' of extension cable from Hobbyking or Bangood.Cut the leads in two, solder in and heatshrink whatever length of cable you need. Not difficult to do. Six small soldered joints for each extension cable. You will always have materials around to make exactly what you need.
I too tried the crimping method years ago and it was so frustrating and never did manage to get it done correctly.
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