Here is a list of all the postings Max Trent has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mini Panic disappointment|
I would just like to add that you could not get bettet guys than Rob and Al at Avicraft.I also bought a Mini Panic kit and found one of the Ailerons was mis-shapen.I took it back and it was replaced with no problem at all BUT the best one was when i messed up the 1st wing build went back to ask Rob if he could supply/cut me a new set of ribs.He did this and charged me nowt!
Ok the odd mistake might happen in the kit part selection but i gaureentee if you see Rob it will sort it with no question at all.I am not tied to the shop at all just a repeat customer who likes there customer service and readness to help.
|Thread: Bending 2mm steel wire?|
Alan,Its a Flair Magnatilla.Each elevator is apx 7 inchs long.Kinda big.
Being new to building i have now got to a point that i need to bend wire.The first piece will be 2mm to join the elevators.Tool wise i have no specialised items,just a big bench vice and pliers.I would like to get sharpish bends and have no idea the best way.Do i literally place in the vice and pull the longer side of wire OR do i hit to hit the wire at the vice to get the sharp/square bend.Bending the smaller wire has been ok,its just the larger 2mm and 3mm.I have not got much if any spare in the kit and did not want to waste what i have testing.
|Thread: Magnatilla engine mounting?|
Thanks for the pointers guys.If anyone is still reading this,can i ask about the cowl.The scout range has several kits with the ali circular cowl.I have seen pictures of models and the cowls have been cut away at the bottom ,so you could kinda slip it on your wrist if you get my jist.Is this done on certain models copying the real thing or done to aid fitting of motor and cooling?
The Magnatilla i am building is my 1st large build,only a couple of guillows FF kits and a West Wings Pinto elec park size built before,so loads on this build are new to me.Have looked here and asked for help when needed on the build,the main issue i keep dodgeing is the engine mounting.I got the SC 52 fs and now know i need to mount it furher back into the firewall,which means material needs to be removed and boxed in.I have really finding it hard to work the placement so it finally ends up central in the cowl.At first i was just placing the motor so it fit in the firewall/cowl neatly and was told (luckily)do not forget to make it central!!!!
Any way because i am finding it hard to find the correct position AND THEN cutting and boxing the firewall i am going to cut the firewall so i end up with a sort of "U" shape.This will stop me having to cut some of the fuse side being cut also and the engine can be mounted vertically.This leads to my problem now,bare with with....
Exhaust placement/exit... If mounting sideways i think the exhaust would of layed at the bottom of the cowl,and i think the cowl is cut away at the bottom on the Mag????? If not where do you exit the exhaust? And can you run the exhast in any direction with adapters etc.
I think the Flair scout range are very similar at the front so if anyone as any pictures to give me some ideas that would really help me out here.
I think i should show how the build is going because it might help other novices also.My errors can be pointed out : ) and there will be many.
Built the front fuse box section and rear lattice work,too late to post do you think? and if not where is the best place to start the thread?
|Thread: Help with DB S&S Moth e Built up TE please|
Tomas,Many thanks for the help.I am really glad to see someone with more skill than me is doing a build on the Moth e. I hope you continue to add pictures.I have looked at the curved area which i am stuck on and see you have added some packing at the front of TE and it looks like a feathered packing piece at the rear also it looks like you added some height to part 232.
The only thing i see different is that i shaped my TE at the curve first,yours still looks straight.Perhaps me shaping first made it more complicated.I am going to keep watching to see how you handle the resr of the TE,please add more pictures.
I have been checking the post often to see if any more help came.Eddy from DBS+S did post and offered the original poster to contact him for help.Not wanting to take advantage and phone myself i PM`d him to ask if i can phone him but i think he does not visit here much so still waiting for a reply on that BUT it looks like you have solved my issue.Do you intend to keep the build posted Tomas?
|Thread: Flair scout kits|
Into my first Flair scout build,i got the magnatilla.At the moment i am just looking/checking parts out and reading the manual.Because i am a novice,(only done a couple of small build before)i have been looking at builds here for tips etc.I am not sure but looking at several builds on the scouts it looks like the wings are built very similar and this leads to my question.It is intended that the bottom cap strips are layed out first then the ribs are glued to these at the flat section and the front area is finished whe nthe wing is removed from board.They need to be final trimmed to meeT the LE. I think i will find it easier to add these later.Is it ok the pack the ribs up then build THEN add the strips.OR am i missing something obvious that requires the strips done first.
Also while i am here and on a different tack,I have got a SC 52 4stroke to fit.Should i go with the wood bearers or get palstic engine mount.If using plastic mount do i need to modify the bulkhead at all,not sure of best connection method.
|Thread: Scallop TE.|
Richard, I got the Magnatilla and was told the SC 52 4stroke would be ideal so i got that also.
To be honest i am a bit let down with the wood quality,much of the wood is badly warped.Found some build threads online and this is mentioned,wish i read them first.The posts said that the fuz parts turn out ok whem laminated but the wing ribs have caused many headaches,some even cutting new from balsa and ditching the lite-ply.My wing ribs could not be worse,ok the warp along the length might be aesy to remove but the warp on mine from flat bottom to top curve is mighty.I suppose if you were to use CA you could get the warp out bit by bit but i want to use aliphatic this time.
Why is lite-ply used any way? is it cost? or does it die cut better? i for one would sooner pay more for the kit with good parts.
Do not mean to bash Flair,the rest of the kit is great,just that lite-ply.I will not buy another Flair scout without looking in the box first.If lit-ply is present it will be shut and put back.
Lovely build there Richard,would love to build that good.
Can i just ask,,,,with a straight TE like i have just done,the top or bottom TE strip gets chamfered at the rear so they sit together,what happens with the scallop,do you chamfer the curve area?
I am after a kit for my second build and it looks like it will be another Flair kit.
The only problem i have is that the kits i like Fokkers,Attila and Mag have or can have scalloped TE. I have no idea how you accomplish this only having done straight Built up TE to date.Leaving the bottom TE strip as is and then chamfering top strip rear was easy to work out,not so with scallops!
|Thread: Laser/cnc kits?|
Thanks for the pointers guys.Spoilt for choice now.
I have built a couple of basic West Wings kits,flair and a DB S+S. I am now looking at getting something else but find a lack of kits in the shops.So i will look to buy from the tinternet but have no idea whats out there brand wise and if the quality is good.
Looking for something semiscale/scale 36"-60" ish, WWI to late,really not fussed.quality is the main concern.
|Thread: Wing seat area on fuse|
The wing seat area`s on the fuse i am building does not match the wing centre section very well at all,too tight and too big in areas.The same goes with the small doubles,again the profile does not match the fuse even! I can cut knew doubles to match easy enough but i do not know if it will be ok to cut out the fuse wing seat area and inset a new protion of balsa so i can cut the new wing seat.I was thinking just to cut 3 straight edges and glue in.Perhaps cover the join lines with some thin ply/balsa.The kit is a semi scale 45 inch bipe.
|Thread: Help with DB S&S Moth e Built up TE please|
Eddie,Sorry to jump in on Gary`s post but i have had that same quandry also.I have got slightly further at the root area by filling with scrap like manual states also i altered the last rib at the TE contact area,shorter and steeper.My scrap piece when shaped filled the area in gary`s photo,waffer thin at rib,thicker at the curve.But i do not see how this is right because the top TE strip carries across higher than "232",corner piece.It does not seem right that the TE gets sanded down?
I have looked high and low for pictures of a wing built this way with no luck.The trouble i have with the "if it looks right method" is that having little if no experience i dont really know right from wrong.
Being my first "proper kit" i will admit to making a couple of mistakes but so far i have managed to correct all of them,but i really can not get the jist of this.
Gary,You are not alone i had and have the exact same problem! So much so that the build is put to one side.I even built rough copies of the root area so experiment with so the kit would not get spoilt but could still not work it out.The trouble is every picture i see of the kit OR similar model is covered.Can not blame the kit or manual because i suppose its not a build for novice,i got this after several guillows and a basic westwings kit.But as you say there are no views of the area to give any idea of the build method.I also think the TE goes past the last tip rib BUT i see a picture of a Flair kit with the same tip method but that had the TE end at the last rib.If you are like me a picture tells a 1000 words.I am going to follow this with fingers crossed,only by chance i see the title.The fuse is less problematic i built that hoping to sort the wings after but no luck yet.Good luck.
|Thread: Tack gluing with CA|
I am new to building and learning as i go.I have mainly built small wood kits so far and being impatient used CA .I have recently buit a larger kit again with CA and where there was no rush pva.I can see the advantage with pva on formers etc BUT the proping up etc edges me away from it.So it as been ca then later i run super thatic along join,not sure if doesany good.But i have just seen "tack gluing mention.How would that work on formers say? do you apply pva to former then place and then ca as normal OR leave space in the pva for ca also.Not sure what to do here,with the pva being wet etc.
Thanks guys,i will give PB a go then.Much easier to find than Sundeala,well,can not find sundeala!
Looking to make a bigger building board and i see plaster board is always mentioned.I have been using 3mm cork tiles glued to mdf which i think the 3mm is not deep enough.With plaster board does it take pins ok with fingers and does it not crumble pretty quick?Also do you need to glue it to a backing board or just lay it on it?
|Thread: DB Cirrus moth E.|
Hi Dan, i have the smaller version which i think varies somewhat. I can not work the wing tips out. i do not know if the TE strips go past the last rib or end at it? There is a packing/infill piece that goes in the same area and i do not know if the plan shows that shaped or the TE full length.One wing on the plan shows a vert line at rib "suggesting" to me at least a cut but the other wing as no line.It could b a blemish on the plan which is not copied very crisply.
Into a build of the cirrus and would like to ask a couple of Q`s on the build if possible.
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