Here is a list of all the postings SDF has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: small diesel engines|
I don't think those PAW prices are correct. The Jan 2016 list price for the PAW 09 DS (non-r/c) is £62+VAT and for the r/c version its £75+VAT.
|Thread: Nichrome wires|
I've bought it from here in the past.
|Thread: C of G For Control line models|
Lets not perpetuate this nonsense. Danny is completely correct and Mal is wholly wrong. It is the leadout position wrt the CofG that matters the belcrank within reason can go anywhere. It is, however, usual to try to place the belcrank such that the rake of the lines is tangential to the arc of the lines in flight. This avoids a bend in the leadouts where they exit the wing.
|Thread: Model aircraft on Antiques Roadshow.|
(Looks like you spotted the error whilst I was typing)
I think there is and error in your calculation. You appear to have multiplied the mass by the speed then squared the result making your estimate of the force a factor of ten too big.
40 lb = 18.1kg
30mph = 13.4m/s
120ft = 36.6m
18.1*(13.4^2) / 36.6 = 88.8N
or just over 9kg
or at 40mph just over 16kg
But I think 40 mph might be too low a speed for such a machine to fly so it would probably still need to be tethered to the preverbial immovable object.
Edited By SDF on 24/06/2013 21:53:12
|Thread: Control surfaces attachments|
I like sewn hinges, cheap to make and very low friction.
|Thread: thinning epoxy|
We had a demo at the club I used to belong to of how to glass a wing but can't remember who it was by now.
Use laminating epoxy as already advised. Thin this as required using pure methanol. Lay the glass cloth over the wing. Don't try to use a brush. Pour the epoxy sparingly onto the cloth/wing and then use a camel hair paint roller cut down to about 2" wide to spread the epoxy. Gives really good results with just the right amount of epoxy to properly wet the cloth without excessive weight gain. Pop the roller in a jam jar of acetone before the epoxy sets and it can be reused.
|Thread: Gooney Bird Plans??|
Available for purchase from this very site
I think I may have a copy. What I'm not sure of is where it is. I'll have a rummage and see if I can find it.
|Thread: Can it be done?|
Are you trying to tell me you can't fly both the popular modes?
I could never really see the point of buddy leads. What is the problem with passing the TX between tutor and trainee? Thats how I learnt to fly. Keep it simple.
|Thread: Soldering piano wire for UC legs|
You could solder it with the butane torch but it would be very difficult to ensure the wire is not over heated and its temper lost. The wire won't go brittle it will go soft. Personally I would spend a little more on an electric iron they are not really that expensive.
|Thread: Holes...how to cut 'em|
You do realise Diamond is a form of carbon and will burn quite nicely. I would suggest keeping them away from the torch unless you want to buy some more.
A (probably) cheaper alternative is a bit of brass tube sharpened at the end with knife.
|Thread: I want to build a model!|
I googled Waco SRE and came up with a 3-view, a Peter Rake plan from Traplet, a Walt Mooney plan, a Sterling 33" plan, a Sterling 13" plan and an Earl Stahl 21" plan. I also found a lot of google images photos but the link to that won't work on here.
Edited By SDF on 06/04/2013 19:32:10
Edited By SDF on 06/04/2013 19:32:35
Edited By SDF on 06/04/2013 19:33:18
Edited By SDF on 06/04/2013 19:34:34
|Thread: the best aeromodelling books?|
"Building & Flying Indoor Model Airplanes" by Ron Williams - the best aeromodelling book ever published IMHO.
"Model Aircraft Aerodynamics" by Martin Simons - great book on the fundamentals of how model aircraft fly.
|Thread: Halford's Petrol Resistant Lacquer|
There has been a thread running on the other forum I frequent about fuel proofer. It would appear that Tufcote is no longer available from Ripmax but this was just relabeled Rustins Plastic Coating. Try searching for it on e-bay. The floor type is said to cure faster than the furiture type which may or may not be what you want.
|Thread: New diesel engines?|
My free flight KK Pirate had a PAW 55 BR in it - plenty of power.
Are you making the Tomboy free flight, radio or radio assist?
|Thread: Diesel fuel availability|
A model shop that stocks Model Technics fuel should be able to get diesel fuel for you.
You might like to try here for Dave Stapleton Engineering, thats certainly the address were I used to buy my FAI rubber from.
|Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread|
Just to put the cat among the pidgens I'd like to suggest a control-line mass build. And don't try to tell me this is an RC forum its ModelFlying.co.uk.
|Thread: Dynamic balance on props|
BEB, I see what you mean but the dynamic imbalance is likely to be very small as blade thickness is small compared to the diameter so the scope for misalignment of the pricipal axis is, I would have thought, quite limited. This would probably also show up as a static imbalance with the prop vertical, but I don't suppose may people check the balance of their prop in that orientation.
Erflog, I suspect the vibration would damp out pretty fast without any stimulus but can't be sure. Might be an interesting exercise to try and computer model it, not done any of that for a while.
The kineic energy of the blades may be different but I think that only becomes relevant when you try to change it. Same effect as the angular acceleration I described.
Could your post arrival vibration problem be due to a partial failure in the internal model structure making it more flexible than intended.
I have a control-line twin (same configuration as a F82) with two diesels and on the ground there is a beat frequency oscillation when both motors are running that makes the two fuselages forward of the wing visibly flex from side to side quite alarmingly but there is no problem in the air. Funny old stuff vibration.
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