Here is a list of all the postings D for Donald has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ripmax ARTF Bullet|
The quality of the covering isn't brilliant at all. The black trim is peeling off in numerous places and I haven't even completed the build yet. The plastic quick links have a differant thread to the pushrods and are therefore useless. This is not acceptable and Ripmax need to get a grip selling a model at this price - the covering quality of their competitors e.g. Seagull, is far superior.
|Thread: Wanted Irvine 53 Mk 1 manual - have Irvine 40 mark 2 manual|
Brilliant. Will do that now.
Hi Rich, the Mark 1 which is Brit made has the carb secured by 1 pinch bolt through the casing behind the carb whereas the Mark 2 which was OS Japanese made has the carb secured with 2 grub screws on each side of the carb inlet casting immediately below the carb. Both engines are red.
Thanks Rich - yours is the older Mark 1 British made version I'm after? I only ask because you say nib.
I am trying to get hold of a copy of the Irvine 53 mark 1 manual. I have the Irvine 40 mark 2 manual which is handy for part numbers and thread sizes of the various fixing bolts.
|Thread: Ripmax ARTF Bullet|
I have just bought the ARTF and it looks very good. Any thoughts on putting an ASP .60 in it? Would this be overcooking it?
|Thread: Mk 1 & 2 Irvine 40 or 46 Silencer|
Aha E-Bay! That's worth investigating. Thanks for the link.
Thanks David. It's the flange by one of the through bolts to the engine that's broken making my old silencer u/s. Cost is a factor - there comes a point when its more cost effective just buy a new engine such as the ASP 46. I was hoping, maybe unrealistically, that there might be a source of 2nd hand parts out there. Unfortunately a good source was Motorvation but dont seem to be trading any more.
Thanks Bob but checking the JE website was my first port of call and the earlier engines have unusual exhaust port dimensions. Are Q engine silencers still available for purchase - any sources would be greatly appreciated..
Hi, anyone know where to source a silencer for Irvine 40/46 Mark 1 or 2 engine? This is the earley version with the bolt on back plate and front prop shaft housing? I bought my engine 22 years ago and I don't want to consign it to the bin for want of a silencer.
|Thread: Irvine 53 carb setting|
Does anyone know where I can get hold of the manual/pamphlet for an Irvine 53 Mark 1? I've had no luck so far.
|Thread: Super Slinky|
Tested again today but the wind was a little gusty to make it ideal. However with 3 deg downthrust (to calm the 40FP) and a couple of clicks of up elevator the upward soar when full power was applied from tickover has been eliminated. It was much improved though this really is a bird that needs full attention! It still may benefit from more testing and tweaking but I'm getting there.
Hello Gary, It would seem that Worden, Andy Horseman and self all moved the COG forward between 1 and 2 cm. You are unlikely to find problems moving it forward at these extents but my advice is on no account move it back from the plan point.
Personally, I would start at 1.5 to 2cm forward and experiment from there.
Big error! In my last post I should have said COG 2cm FORWARD of plan position. Apologies.
Further tests yesterday. With the COG now about 2cm to the rear of the plan position it's much more stable. However, in flight on powering up to full throttle from tickoever I'm getting a marked rise of the nose and increase in height whereas this doesn't happen between mid and full throttle settings. The conclusion from one of the club experts is that it needs downthrust and this is probably a legacy of the OS 40FP power as compared to a .25.
I also tested the flapperon setting which threw it into a steep dive! I don't propose to try flapperons again and I will be inhibiting this facility. It would be my recommendation NOT to programme flapperons in.
Had the maiden today and my experience was and echo of Wardens! The COG was bang on per plan. Take off fine but a real porpoise in the air and very, very sensitive to elevator even with 60% expo.It needed more up trim but I had such a handful controlling it, I couldn't trim it out in the time in the air. Other trims fine. Decided the best option was to power down and land asap which I did. I also concluded like Warden that it was tail heavy and needed a more forward COG. I did this at the field and on the 2nd attempt there was an obvious improvement but then, as luck would have it, I experienced engine tune issues and I had to do a deadstick. Hairy to say the least but landed without damage and decided to quit the session whilst ahead until the motor was perfect. The 40FP does not appear to overpower it but I will know more when I have it in better tune.
It would appear however that COG is critical and for initial flights a COG a little more forward of the one shown on the plan may be prudent. Will report back.
Here is my Slinky which has yet to have it's maiden. Typical of a northern non-Jessie I took the liberty of making my own mods to the plan. These are that the wings were left square; the fin and tailplane outlines were altered slightly and the top of the fuz was rounded by chamfering 1/2" stock. As the back of the fin was upright not slanting, I increased the length of the fuz by 1".
As Alex says the model is suitable for .25 to .35 size engines and having nothing smaller available, I installed an OS 40 FP. These are pretty tame engines and I checked that the weight is the same as an OS AX25, so I'm hoping the model wont be uncontrollable beast!!
|Thread: Galaxy Magician builders|
Kev, your plan looks full size. The Mystic plan isn't and for example you have to guess where to fit the engine mount on F1 because there is no help from the plan. What I've tried to do is scale up the measurements from an approx 1/2 scale plan view. I'd like to get hold of a copy of the Magician plan.
Thanks Richard, a better idea. I think a Mystic with a 90 engine in it would be asking a lot from the original single leg wire arrangement. It would be a shame to batter the wing with the u/c in the event of an overenthusiastic landing. The Mystic comes with spats so I will have to think whether or not I use them.
By the way does the Magician come with a full size plan or the truncated version?
Hi,, I've bought the Galaxy (now My Hobby Store Mystic) which is the big Magician. Does the undercarriage really fix on the wing side of the former? The first heavy landing it will bwnd into the wing surely? Has anyone fixed the undercarriage the forward side of the former?
My only bad point on the kit so far is that I have to buy extra wood and a metal engine mount for a 90 size engine - which is what it's sold for!
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