Here is a list of all the postings Mike Freeman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model flying photos you're proud of|
With all this rain and gales we've been having over the last few weeks I thought I'd share a couple of shots from the White Horse MC patch during sunnier times earlier this year.
The model is an FVA 10A Rheinland with a wingspan of 127" making it 1/5th scale. It was scratch built by Vic Green, better known as a locomotive modeller but no mean aeromodeller too! On the sticks was ace glider guider and Vic's chief test pilot Simon Jones.
Here's a recent snap of WHMC clubmate, Pete Searle's E-flite 1.2mtr P-51 Mustang off on another sortie.
Edited By Mike Freeman on 13/10/2019 17:30:58
|Thread: RCM&E Dec 2018 - Ruckus Review Update|
I was out flying my Ruckus this morning, trying to blow the canopy off like you and Frank have experienced. I tried bunts and dives and flick rolls all to no avail...... but good fun nonetheless!!
Just a thought..... did you add the extra air outlet hole as recommended by CenturyUK? See here
Sorry to hear you are having troubles with your Ruckus.
I think your 3000mAh packs may be too heavy. I find the best CG location is 105mm back from the LE - a lot more than your 80mm!! I found a bit of differential on the ailerons helped the roll rate too. Here is the relevant bit from my review.....
Over the next few flights I tweaked the set up to suit a more aerobatic flying style. I swapped the Rx for a 6-channel version and assigned each wing servo to a separate channel so I could introduce a little differential. I finally settled on a CG location of 105mm from the leading edge (just behind the recommended maximum) and surface throws of:
Aileron 25mm up & 20mm down
Elevator 15mm each way
Rudder 35mm each way
With these settings and 20% expo dialled in I had the best of both worlds: Nice easy flying around neutral yet more exciting aerobatics with the sticks in the corners. All this and STILL that insanely slow flying speed is possible – amazing! The greater throws improved the aerobatic performance enormously with snappier rolls and super tight loops easily achieved.
The rearward CG makes the Ruckus almost pitch neutral which means it stays in a dive when the nose is pushed forward, there is just a gentle recovery to level flight when the sticks are released. Moving the CG any further back causes the Ruckus to stay in a dive or even tuck under which some may find disconcerting. Inverted flight requires only an occasional dab of forward pressure to hold level flight and inverted loops are no problem (as long as the LiPo pack is well strapped in!)
I recon you'd benefit from shifting the CG further back which should help reduce the power zoom you mention. I think I added a bit of down thrust and right thrust to mine after a while but I don't recall it being too far out out of the box.
Also, the 11x5.5 prop is more suitable for a 4S set up. A 3S pack needs a 12x6 for the best results.
I hope that helps and gets your Ruckus behaving properly. I'm still enjoying mine - a 3S 2200mAh pack and a 12x6 are just right for sports aerobatics - it won't quite climb vertical but does OK. Maybe the name makes us expect too much but, for a sports aerobatic Hack it does pretty well!
|Thread: Multiplex Cockpit Sx 9|
Mastercrashman - Phew! I'm pleased to hear you got your Taboo back and thanks for your kind comments about it.
Capt - The only way I can find to do what you want is to use one of the 3-way switches - let's say Aux3. Here's how...
1. Assign the timer 2 start (the "Switch" box on the screen) to Aux3 UP.
2. Assign the timer 2 voice activation (the "Start using" box on the screen) to Aux3 DOWN.
3. Set Aux3 to mid position while taxiing out and as the wheels leave the ground switch Aux3 UP to start the timer 2 - switch Aux3 back to mid position.
4. At the end of the flight when the wheels touch the ground switch Aux3 DOWN and Flossie will tell you the total flight time which you'll have to remember as the timer will keep running until you hit the T2 stop button back in the pits.
Edited By Mike Freeman on 15/08/2019 21:18:11
I do find the countdown feature very useful but I thought that having access to the time remaining by a swipe or a switch, when I wanted it, would have meant we would be able to turn off the minute by minute countdown - we don't really need both!! Sadly, it looks like this can't be done. The young lady has quite a domineering voice compared to the soothing voices emanating from other Tx's in the pilots box and I frequently get witty comments from my clubmates every 60 seconds when she pipes up with the time remaining!!
Sorry to hear you lost your Taboo. Did you get it back? I always put my contact details on my models just in case! The original Taboo is still going strong and regularly gets an airing, still one of my favourites!
Assigning the timer to a switch does the same as a swipe - giving the timers time. The young lady still pipes up every minute during the countdown though and I can't find an option to switch her off!!
I tried your excellent suggestion of cancelling the alarm and having the timer count up. This stops her but I loose the countdown feature - she just tells me the time on the timer whenever I swipe or flick a switch. I could use that and stop flying when the desired motor run time is reached but I do like the countdown timer!!
I'm starting to think it isn't possible to silence her - maybe the next update will have this feature.
Edited By Mike Freeman on 14/08/2019 16:28:20
Yep, that's as far as I got too! Quite reassuring that I hadn't missed something obvious but still mildly irritating that we can't stop the lady from chiming in every minute.
I must admit, I thought the "swipe up" option would automatically do away with the regular updates - I, for one, don't need both and it seems strange to have the "swipe up" option AND the regular updates running concurrently.... do folks need that much updating??
The early Cockpit manuals were great - lots of info and examples to help programming - the new manuals not so helpful!! As you say though, the gear is as good as ever!
Hello Cockpit SX fans,
I've just updated my SX9 to software version 1.40. Lots of useful additions there. I particularly like the "swipe up" for Timer 1 voice updates but does anyone know how to turn off the regular Timer 1 voice updates? I'm constantly ribbed in the pilot box when the German lady pipes up with the time remaining every minute through the flight!! I'd much rather just rely on a "swipe up" towards the end of the flight to tell me!
|Thread: Small motor ideas ?|
+1 for George at 4-Max.
He's just helped me select a motor and ESC for a little aerobatic job I've designed. He's a very knowledgeable chap and the range of motors he has is immense so there should be one to suit most situations! My little model flies great with the 4-Max gear on board.
I too have used several of his LiPo packs. He says on his website ..... "You won't be disappointed with 4-Max LiPo's". He's right! I'm not disappointed - I think they are great... 40C rating and, as Bruce says, not prone to puffing. Reasonably priced too!!
Edited By Mike Freeman on 23/06/2019 22:24:55
|Thread: Model flying photos you're proud of|
I thought I'd add a few of my favourites from recent flying sessions.
The shabby looking slope soarer is my brothers Boomerang to which he had taped a Mobius camera (viewing the results made us queezy!!) The others are clubmates models at the White Horse Model Club.
|Thread: Where can I buy Profilm (Oracover) by the metre?|
Sorry for the late reply - the day job inconveniently got in the way!!
The Rapid Models stuff looks interesting but it is a fraction of the Profilm prices is it really as good? I find Profilm very easy to use and if the Rapid Models stuff is as good (both in quality and application) it is certainly worth considering.
West London Models do, indeed, sell it by the metre and have a good selection.
Unfortunately, BalsaMart don't have the colours I'm after.
That's brilliant thanks!! WLM are favourite at the moment while I contemplate The Rapid Models stuff!
Looking at their website they only list the standard 2 mtr rolls. I'll give them a call later and find out. I'm hoping to find someone who will mail cut lengths. I live in Oxfordshire and Leeds is a bit far!
Edited By Mike Freeman on 26/04/2019 08:23:27
I'm building a little model which I fancy dressing in three shades of blue Profilm. I have one shade and need to buy the other two. The thing is, I only need a small amount and two standard 2 metre rolls would be a very expensive proposition!!
My local model shop used to sell Profilm by the metre off a 10mtr roll but they have sadly closed down.
Does anyone know of anywhere that sells Profilm by the metre?
|Thread: LiPo Internal Resistance|
Peter and Nigel,
I'd like to thank you both because between you you have given me a rule of thumb I can use, along with Nigel's anecdotal "If it's hot when you land..... etc" mentioned above.
Here's my thinking:
I like the look of Nigel's S/Ahr ratio shown in the last column of his post above. I know my 2200 packs are good and Nigel's figure of 41.3 is a good reference point. I also know I've been getting suspicious of my 1800 packs and they show 27.7S/Ahr in Nigel's table so, I'm thinking of setting a threshold of 25S/Ah and by rearranging Nigel's calculation to:
IR = 1000/(Ah x S/Ah)
For my conservative consumption of around 15C I'm starting off using an S/Ah ratio of 25:
Max IR (in mOhms) = 1000/(Ah x 25)
Max IR = 40/Ah
So, working with my packs I need to consider retiring my packs when the worst cell IR gets to:
That's just what I was after, thank you. But, thinking about it, it should be relatively easy to factor in different consumption C values using Peter's calculation above. My maximum IR's are based on my max consumption of around 15C. Those who push their packs harder would need to use a different S/Ahr ratio to my 25!!
I agree with your philosophy "if it gets hot... etc" but I was thinking about putting some science behind it and your conductance idea is certainly something to explore, thanks.
The 2200 packs are Gens Ace 25C's I have three packs and they all have similar results. A good case in point actually because when new they had IR's of around 7mohm/cell so, on my 130% threshold I "should" be retiring them BUT on your conductance argument above they appear to look good. They are good in reality too - they work a treat!
Thanks Peter, I have seen that spreadsheet. MattyB pointed us in that direction a few days ago. It is very good at determining a maximum C rating for a pack. I'm after the reciprocal of this though, I have a known C rating (12-15C for most of my models) and would like to know what the max IR should be for a given mAhr size.
With this information I can either verify or scrap my self imposed 130% threshold.
I was wondering if there is a consensus on LiPo internal resistance (IR) and if there is a recommended maximum for different mAhr packs? I know it depends on the likely current draw but does a table exist showing suggested max IR against mAhr rating?
I was testing my packs last night ready for the hammering (considered of course! ) they'll be getting now the weather is improving. To be fair, I'm quite kind to my packs, they tend to operate at around 12-15C so there're not exactly pushed to the limit!!
Years ago I set myself an IR threshold of 130% so, when the IR of a pack reaches 130% of what it was new the pack gets retired. Now, several of my packs have reached my arbitrary 130% threshold this year but are still giving good service. They're not puffed, don't get hot and have good capacity so I'm thinking my threshold is too strict.
During my testing I noticed that the larger the pack the lower the IR. This makes sense but is there a recognised correlation between IR and mAhr size and a recognised maximum for each size?
Here are some examples from my packs:
I've been measuring the IR with my icharger 106b with the packs all at storage charge and at room temperature.
If such a table exists I can maybe adjust it slightly to recognise my conservative 12-15C discharge rate, ditch my 130% threshold and get a load more flights from my packs!
|Thread: RCM&E Dec 2018 - Ruckus Review Update|
The wheel spats were commercial items - I've been trying to remember where I got them from but have failed - sorry!
They are approx 150mm long x 45mm high x 35mm wide. The opening for the wheel is approx 60mm x 25mm.
Happy New Year All!
Here are the dimensions of the recess in the wings. Just the left wing is shown, the right wing is mirror image.
Regarding the u/c, I also found the original worked fine, no hint of ground looping. I swapped it because I wanted to save some weight so I could add some wheel spats as the underside of the wings were getting covered in grass cuttings and mud!!
Hope this helps!
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