Here is a list of all the postings David Tayler has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Bolt chuck Glider|
I straightened the wings of my Lidle glider that I converted into a twin motor plane by cutting part way through them then filling the v with PU adhesive( Gorilla glue type of thing). Held it all down flat ,clamped to a board while the glue dried and it has worked a treat. I suggest some masking tape under the glue line to make sure it does not get stuck to the board! David
|Thread: Transmitter / receiver issues, help needed pls|
Daire, Do you know the brown out voltage for your receiver? 3.7 volts seems rather low for a receiver supply .However you say 2s. if that is a lipo that gives 7.4 volts which is high for many servos. I hope your new esc will give 5 volts which is fine for most receivers and servos.
|Thread: Want plans for roto duo|
If you PM me your address I am happy to send you hard copy of the plans and article. David
|Thread: Build your own telemetry sensors.|
Thank you all for the help ,especially Andy in this instance. I can now see all the cells and the total. My current sensor arrived yesterday so I will add it. I think for the air speed sensor it may be as cheap to buy the Frsky modulle,even if that seems like cheating!
Chris and Mike, Thank you for your help. Sorry to be confused by the Frsky/arduino nomenclature. I now have a module almost working for lipo voltage. I have the following display on my Taranis X9D;-
1: A2 11.1V( presumably from the receiver)
2: Cels 11.49V
3: RSSI 84dB
4: RxBT 5.0v
I only have 3S lipos and have not yet built the current sid eof the modue.The arduino pin connections are as per Chris's diagram/ PCB. VFas_SOURCE VOLT_3 to use the balance lead. Why do I not have individual cells displayed ? Also I have a series of flashing stars on the transmitter display.Why?
Thanks for the project I am gradually getting my head round it. One last question is there a cheap airspeed sensor available?
Chris, isn't A4 used for SDA in the I2C bus. David
|Thread: Lidl XL Glider|
Thank you Steve, My store will be the 23rd too.I will be there! David
Steve, How soon is soon? Last time when there were gliders Lidl had sold out by the time I got there.Thanks
|Thread: Build your own telemetry sensors.|
Chris,I am watching this tread with interest.I have read the"H" files but not yet tried programming my Arduino . I would be interested in two pcb's.
|Thread: Amber with a frog in her throat|
I have poured cough mixture into my Taranis and Amber has lost her Dakek speach. Seriously though I had the odd speach with my Fun Cub selected,I moved to my Acrowat and the speach improved .I went back to the Fun cub and all is now fine. I am at a loss to know what was wrong but it seems to have righted itself! Thanks to all who offered suggestions as to the cause of the problem. David
Chris, The sound files sound fine when played on a PC. They also sound OK when played in my friend's Taranis which is running 2.2.2. Should I try to go back to that?
I have tried two different SD cards but the problem remains the same.Thanks for your input David
I am running open Tx 2.2.3 no heli multimodule and the Amber sounds 2.2.3 on a Taranis X9D.(not plus) The initial greeting and switch warning is fine but the Amber sounds and telemetry warnings sound like a "Darlek" and are very slow. I have reloaded the SD card and the firmware to no avail. I have also checked inside the Transmitter for any lose wires. Does anyone have any ideas what to do next? Thanks David
|Thread: Vector board|
Has anyone used Vector board foam? It looks interesting.Tough like epp and fairly light ,but heavier than Depron. It is avauilable from several model shops. I am thinking of buying some but am slightly concerned about its weight.
|Thread: PIC Programmer|
I would agree with Robert and suggest starting with an Arduino. PICs are fine but you need a programmer, and to make life easier, a compiler to translate from a language like Basic or C to machine code. The learning curve is much steeper than for an Arduino which is very well supported both by the official site and loads of projects on the web. Even if the mini pro board is slightly bigger than a PIC chip it contains so much more such as Ato D converters and voltage regulators.The uno is a favourite starting board but the Nano is smaller and will do much the same-it is also slightly cheaper. What you can do with Arduinos is maily limited by your imagination. They are fabulous in my opinion.
|Thread: Ideas for articles in RCM&E|
I very much agree with Phil. There is a place for electronics in rcn&E . Thre have been lots of threads and useful articles about crashes caused bt Rx battery failure. I have a arduino based checker which will measure the internal resistance of battery packs and their capacity. I have had some very interesting results which show how dificult it is to measure how discharged ,or otherwise a receiver battery is. These micro computer boards are rediculously cheap and there are lots of people who can help beginners to master them.
|Thread: Micro magnetic actuators|
I also have some home builds in the 30 g range.Made of 2mm thick depron and a few bits of balsa.I have two Focker VII 's one awaiting a maiden but the other flies very well at a near scale speed.I have about 5 chipmunks with variable flight characteristics. I really enjoy building this type of model as when the inevitable mid air collision occurs they are so easily and cheaply rebuilt. The price of indoor ARTF models seems to have doubled in the last year or so and the "Brick" receivers certainly have.
Thank you Denis,I bought the coil and magnets from Micron rc. The receiver is much smaller than "bricks". It weighs 0.8 g. I believe Ares achieve proportional control with their magnetic actuators,or at least that is what the members of our club who fly them tell me.
I am trying to build a very light indoor model(around 6 grams) with a magnetic actuator for rudder control. These seem to consist of a coil of very fine wire with a tiny strong magnet pivoting inside. I have bought a coil and magnets but there are no instructions. How far in should the magnet be for optimun control?
I presume these are driven by a H bridge and use pulse width modulation to provide proportional control,but an not certain. Ares seem to use them on their micro models such as their tiger moth.
Any information would be welcome.Thanks
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
I have had a Leaf for 3and a half years now, It is fantastic to drive,all the torque at low speeds ,incredibly quiet and very economical.We use economy severn and our solar pannels. The servicing costs are low as is the insurance if one shops around.Amazingly some companies don't do electric cars! We do though have a deisel for long runs. Try one and you may be hooked.
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