Here is a list of all the postings Mike Etheridge 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cambrian funfighter spitfire as a slope soarer|
Some years ago my nephew Nigel removed the engine from his Club 20 racer and added an equivalent amount of lead in the cowling. We went to Devils Dyke in Sussex to test the plane out on the slope . After one failed take off he asked me to launch the plane (Chuck it !) as hard as I could into the wind. The plane then sped off like a rocket and covered the width of the slope several times very quickly, and had a tremendous roll rate. Good fun!
|Thread: Flair Cub|
Doc, the crankcase on the Enya 400 SS is square shaped in front and behind the mounting lugs and as such it would still need to fit between the bearers with a bearer plate. The engine fits OK now and bolts up without issues. I think that bearer plates should be part of the cowling / bearer design in the first place, which is now the case I think with old designs such as the Junior and Super 60 ? However it did flash through my mind today that a bearer plate might have worked in this case but perhaps not with the amount of cowling I have retained ?.
Windscreen fixed but extra gluing is required plus some masked painting. I thought I would fix the engine permanently today and had anticipated a quick exercise. But due to carrying out the fuel proofing and internal cowling painting after installing the engine fixing bolts, it took me a long while to fix the engine due to creepage of finishing resin and paint which secured the fixing bolts leaving them without any flexibility. Also the lower crankcase on the engine would not fit between the bearers despite being OK when the bearer holes were drilled. So trimming of the painted bearers was necessary. Note the hammer, I was tempted!
Well done David and Trish with the Super 60, I am most impressed and look forward to a flying report.
I went through a period of buying engines on E-bay some years ago which was probably a touch of Hoarding ?. I did buy a Merco 61 with Chris Olsen's name and address inside the box. Needless to say the engine is very warn and I have never used it. I do have his last Uproar in my loft but that has an OS 46 with a tuned pipe installed. I also have two part finished planes of his hiding in the loft.
As for the Cub, I will re-fix the windscreen today having failed yesterday with the 'Glue and Glaze' which just did not go off.
I would agree Doc , the finish I have got with Hammerite it not that good compared with the spray finishes I have put on other planes, but that said the finish overall is not good on the Cub fuselage ,it's just about acceptable but will not win any competitions.
After 24 hours the Hammerite paint viscosity thinned at normal room temperature and I was able to apply further coats to the cowling of the Cub which is not perfect but acceptable. Prior to the painting I tried to re-fix the celluloid wind screen using some 'Glue and Glaze' for the first time, in the house rather than the cold garage. However the glue proved unsatisfactory for the job and looked like PVA to me and cost £6.50. I will revert to using Z-Poxy 5 minute Epoxy to glue the screen once the paint has dried.
You may well hold the record for owning the most Super 60's David ? -I have some Merco engines but to date have only used a 49. I do have at least one 35 and a 29 plus some new unused silencers which I gather were not that effective ? I will be interested to know what your electrical set up is for the Super 60 and how it performs?
Having dried off and sanded where appropriate the finishing resin on the Cub, I foolishly tried to paint it with white Hammerite paint in my garage where the temperature was less than 8 degrees C. The paint had a thick consistency and when applied it looked awful so I had to remove it from the front of the cowling. I then read the paint instructions where it indicated that the ideal painting temperatures were between 8 and 25 degrees C. It also warned that the paint can cause drowsiness but failed to mention stupidity !. I have brought the paint tin indoors plus a tin of red Solarlac in the hope that the warm temperature will improve the viscosity of both ?
Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 20/11/2020 12:56:19
Yes David , refurbishing the plane has taken a while but having fuel proofed it today I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, but after some hours the finishing resin is still tacky, I hope it's dry by tomorrow. I took note of your engine selection and have matched it with the Enya SS40. I will not mix the rudder with the ailerons as suggested by Jon of Laser engines. This could mean plenty of practice on the simulator. I will get a club colleague to do the maiden flight and probably take the transmitter from him if things are OK. It seems that the club members who started off with helicopters have had plenty of left hand transmitter use and subsequently fly planes better. In the past with slope soarers my left hand was used just to hold the transmitter.
How are you getting on with your Super 60 David, I assumed you might try it with your surviving Junior 60 wings. ? I have committed myself to building some Super 60 wings . The second hand wings I have are a mess and are the aileron types . I might need to salvage them if balsa supplies are a problem, but various people have commented that the aileron Super 60 is not so nice to fly? . It might need a bit of dihedral?
This is how the Super 60 looked 10 years ago, but don't be fooled by the appearance of the wings , they were constructed badly and the fuselage fell apart once the covering was removed.
Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 18/11/2020 20:12:43
Cowling is now ready for internal fuel proofing despite there being signs of previous proofing it still seemed necessary. I decided to sort the new fuel tank out and feed pipes first prior to the fuel proofing, in case new holes in the cowling were necessary. One job that I have struggled with in the past is the bending of the brass pipes that enter the fuel tanks. I though about full size plumbing and how plumbers avoid kinks in pipes using pipe springs, indeed I have one. The nearest item that resembled a miniature pipe spring I had was a very small diameter nylon snake which fitted inside the brass fuel pipes. This worked a treat and in no time I had set the pipe bends without any kinks and without any problems releasing the snake. After completing the tank I cut the fuel pipes serving the engine and threaded them through the fuselage using electrical insulation tape to bind them with a short length of a larger diameter snake in much the same way as electricians draw cables into conduits.
Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 18/11/2020 13:46:49
There were some very useful comments on favourite fuel proofer on this web site as this is the next stage on the plane, and my current feeling is that I will use some Z-Poxy finishing resin on the interior of the cowling despite various alternatives. Once dry I will paint the interior of the cowling with white Hammerite paint. Today I did a bit more sanding on the plane and ripped out some fibre material which was covering some lead ballast inside the cowling. The fibre was coated with oily residue and obviously could not be fuel proofed. Once the fuel proofing is dry I can finish off the fuselage and permanently fix the engine and throttle link. I can also test out the existing throttle servo which I hope to retain although I have got some new Futaba servos if there are problems. My plan is to set the plane up on my Futaba transmitter by copying a similar model and adjusting as necessary. There is an existing aileron servo which I can also test.
The fibre material cover removed
|Thread: What's your favourite fuel proofer|
I have just had another look in my cupboard for fuel proofer. Apart from the Aerokote and catalyst, I have a Ripmax Tufkote catalyst but I have three tins of Spectra spray that is fuel resistant, (Red, Orange and Black ) so I may use the Black on my Flair Cub inside the cowling.
|Thread: Flair Cub|
I merely copied the arrangement recommended on my 1962 New Junior 60 Geoff. Some copper tape would have been useful or some old earth bar material but none was to hand. It's good that others are making other suggestions for these model plane building tasks as they may be useful for future projects.
I did not expect to be sent cross head countersunk as these did not comply with the suppliers website. The replacement slotted head screws they sent were countersunk also but I have to agree they need not have been.
Well the slotted head bolts arrived so I now have 200 M3 bolts a 100 of which are cross head bolts. So I now need about 50 new planes to fit them in.
Today I have carried out the fixing of the two pairs of bolts through the tin plate so that they could be introduced beneath the engine bearers to fix the engine. The tin plate which I cut with special scissors was from the lid of Waitrose Apricots, and this proved a very easy exercise as was the drilling of the tin plate for the bolts. Instead of soldering pins across the slotted heads I used 5 minute 'Z- Poxy' glue to fix them and the bolts to the tin plate. Once complete I did struggle to fit the bolt arrangements through the underside of the bearers but eventually found that using long nosed pliers and securing one bolt at a time it was possible to thread the bolts / tin plates through. I have for now secured the bolts with nuts and have trial fitted the engine which could do with bit of cleaning.
|Thread: What's your favourite fuel proofer|
Thanks Alan and Engine Doctor, I have a vague recollection that Aerokote when I first bought and used it, the drying time was several days, so a test is vital as suggested.
I have just found some Aerokote with a catalist in my cupboard. I assume this is similar to Clearkote and a useful fuel proofer ?---I am not sure when I last used this stuff and have briefly read through health and safety comments on some of the other preparations described on this blog. Anyone used this stuff, I am proposing using it tomorrow on my Flair Cub cowling prior to using Hammerite paint ?. I think I will do the painting operation outside.
I have just noticed a couple of earlier references to Aerokote.
Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 11/11/2020 17:01:13
|Thread: Flair SE5a restoration|
To add lead on my second hand SE5A, I rolled up two lots lead that I had cut into strips and left holes in the top to take wood screws. The width of the rolled lead was the same as the engine bearers so I was able to fit it either side of the engine and just in front of the engine fixing lugs and fix it with the wood screws..
I had to add lead to my SE5A despite it having a weighty SC 52 4 stroke upfront. On the few visits to the flying field I have fixed it together at home as it fits in my car OK
Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 10/11/2020 21:55:39
|Thread: Flair Cub|
Well spotted Doc, best deal so far, I should have taken more time to look on E-bay.
It looks like they would have been a better bet especially as they sell smaller packets of 10. It's a shame model shops are closed and disappearing as I would always tend to buy from local shops in the past.
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