Here is a list of all the postings brokenenglish has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TN Hunter EDF|
|Thread: Old Keil Kraft kits|
I've been collecting KK kits for decades!
As Peter mentions, the Me109 kit is relatively recent production and not by the original company, so it isn't worth much.
|Thread: Upgrading Windows7 to Win10 for free|
Good news (I think!).
I've just installed W10 using exactly the procedure mentioned by kc in the OP.
If I'd known it was that easy, and free, I would have upgraded long ago. I think I was put off by the many reported troubles in the early days.
Edited By brokenenglish on 14/01/2020 18:27:58
|Thread: Building an electric Super Scorpion|
A few more comments are required.
The OP concerned a BB Super Scorpion kit. The plan on Outerzone isn't the BB plan, it's Ben's plan redrawn and slightly modified by some Eastern European intellectual (Slovakian or Slovenian I think) a few years ago.
IMO, the wing joiners as drawn are perfectly OK for anyone flying the plane as it was meant to be flown.
Finally, this Super Scorpion plan has always made me a bit cross, because someone simply lifted Ben's design and drawing, and presented it as a KK kit plan (no doubt through ignorance), carefully avoiding any reference to Ben!
Edited By brokenenglish on 27/12/2019 18:28:08
Clearly there never was a KK Super Scorpion. I suppose ED must be referring to the KK Scorpion, but even this was a "rare" kit until BB revived it. It was only produced for a relatively short time, and I've never seen or even heard of a KK original being flown RC. Confusion somewhere.
|Thread: Pureists Look Away|
I don't think any "pure IC lads" will be bothered about a Cox Babe Bee...
|Thread: Any better ways to store glue ??|
Another way to look at this question would be to reconsider the glues being used.
Personally, I've never even seen Gorilla Glue, but for decades I've used white woodworking glue from the local DIY store. For me, it works perfectly for most of the wooden airframe construction. Then use epoxy for the high stress hardwood areas and very occasionally a drop of cyano where appropriate, and even balsa cement where bonding to dope would be beneficial. Plus specific adhesives such as canopy bonding, etc.
These various types of glue are all kept in the workshop when in use, and in the cellar when they're not in use, and I've never had the slightest storage problem. The cyano needs to be purchased in volumes that won't exceed about one year of use, but the white glue, balsa cement and epoxy can and do last much longer.
In other words, are the adhesives mentioned in the OP worth the various storage inconveniences suffered?
|Thread: WW1 linen style covering|
I prefer Ken Willard's Sporty Forty to all the above.
|Thread: WW1 linen style covering|
If you want something that really looks authentic, for either scale or vintage, then it has to be traditional nylon/silk/dope.
The big problem with all industrially produced iron-ons is their uniformity. Not only is your vintage or WWI biplane exactly the same shade as everyone else's. But your own plane covering is totally uniform.
Now if there's one thing that real vintage models and WWI planes didn't have, it's a uniform finish. With dope, the planes have a naturally non-uniform finish, that can be enhanced by all sorts of little dodges (a drop of wood colouring varnish for example), and it's easy to get something that looks really authentic, wrinkles and all...
|Thread: Hobby king delivery charges|
I've had perfect service from the HK European warehouse for the last 7 years, and I shall continue using them.
|Thread: power panel|
One of the many useful things that I've learned from this forum is that engine starters work great on an old lipo from a Wot4 foamie!
Another advantage is that I walk out to the runway with the 2V Cyclon and leads in my pockets (separate pockets!) so, if I stall the engine, I can restart immediately, without humping the plane back to the car...
Edited By brokenenglish on 01/11/2019 16:03:40
|Thread: Fairey Gannet|
I remember all this very well. The plan for the model is on Outerzone, here:
Edited By brokenenglish on 26/10/2019 12:19:46
|Thread: Rugby World Cup 2019.|
This England performance will encourage, or perhaps even inspire, the Welsh for tomorrow's game.
|Thread: Charging LiFePo4 batteries|
Don, Yes I agree. When Nicads were "phased out" in Europe, I purchased a stock of Nicad Rx packs from the USA. Unfortunately, we had serious flooding here in June 2018, and my "stock" spent around 30 hours under water.
Playing with old spark ignition engines quickly taught me that Nimh are weak and unreliable in high-risk applications (Rx packs), and Lipos are the way to go. So I carried out some interesting experiments with Lipos for receivers, without any voltage regulator, which basically concluded on the need for LiFe.
Thanks a lot RW!
If no-one disagrees with you, then you're certainly right in saying that I needed that clarification and it is a total answer to my question.
Thanks to all who answered. I need to get this clear as I have to replace my old IC plane Rx packs. I'm still on Nicads!
Just one point. One does sometimes see other "types" of LiFe. I'm sure I've seen LiFeA123 or something like that.
Edited By brokenenglish on 22/10/2019 14:11:48
I have a very simple question for our battery experts.
Both my (excellent) chargers have a LiFe charge/balance function.
The HK web site states that LiFePo4 batteries need a specific LiFePo4 charger.
Can my LiFe charger be used to charge LiFePo4 or not?
As I'm never exactly at the cutting edge of technology, others must have already answered this problem...
|Thread: Wheel size|
Surely it must be shown on the plan.
The American "Model Builder" plan for the Red Zephyr specifies 3.5" airwheels.
Edited By brokenenglish on 21/10/2019 15:50:53
|Thread: Rubber power problem|
Both the Ace and Senator plans clearly tell you to leave an open bay in the covering, immediately behind the rear motor peg, to allow easy access and loading of the motor, etc.
On competition models, it's possible to load the motor without the rear access, but you need to make up a special "tool" (a long dowel with a specific type of "fork" on the end), and this obviously isn't worth the trouble on beginners' type models.
My own suggestion would be to avoid "fancy tricks" and do it the way it's shown on the plan.
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