Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning after a 20 year absence!|
Rogeo, did you see my message on 13th July on your simulator thread ref the cable for your computer?
|Thread: Simulator for sanwa vanguard 35mhz|
Hi Rogeo, this is, I think, the correct one, just a tad over 1/2" diameter.
If it is then let me know. I have no need of this adaptor and if you haven't already sorted one I can post it to you.
|Thread: Futaba T8J and Detrum Istonepro gyro|
Mike, I have had a look at the manual for the Detrum stabiliser and your receiver.
The R2006GS 6 channel receiver doesn't appear to have SBus so you need to look at the PWM output.
The stabiliser requires input of aileron, elevator & rudder only. This is achieved by a special cable which plugs into your receiver in the standard fashion, but delivers only the signal to one input on the stabiliser marked A/E/R. I assume this cable is provided with the stabiliser.
Outputs to the servos are from Ail1 and Ail for ailerons, Ele for elevator and Rud for rudder.
Forget flaperons or any other fancy mix, the gyro only handles ailerons, elevator & rudder, so reset these to normal.
If the ailerons both move in the same direction from a single input, then connect both aileron servos to Ail1 with a Y lead.
All other outputs, throttle, flaps, gear etc. are not controlled by the gyro and are just plugged into the receiver in the normal way.
The operational mode of the gyro is controlled by an assigned three way switch on your transmitter, the output of which is connected to the stabilisers input marked Mode
Hope that helps. Any further problems let us know.
PS I assume you have the manual, if not it's available here Detrum Istone Pro manual
Edited By Caveman on 07/07/2020 21:21:29
|Thread: VOLANTEX asw 28|
Dennis, I think you'll find MO1 refers to MOdel 1, not mode 1 - the picture clearly shows a mode 2 transmitter.
Probably best to wait until Andrea responds to earlier posts so we can see exactly what he's got!
Andrea, do you have the manual for the i6a transmitter?
If not you can download a copy here ii6a manual
By default the channel order for both the transmitter and receiver is 1-aileron 2-elevator 3-throttle 4-rudder. This is irrespective of whether to throttle is on the left or right stick - you seem to have some confusion in this regard.
I suggest you search through your transmitter menus and try to find out which mode (1,2,3 or 4) the transmitter has been set to.
Check whether this particular model it is set to heli or acro (aeroplane) mode.
From your posts I think you want it to be mode 2, i.e. throttle on the left stick (up & down), rudder on the left stick (side to side), elevator on the right stick (up & down) and ailerons on the right stick (side to side). Is that correct?
If the throttle really is on channel 6 then some (possibly random) changes have been made in the set-up menus for this model, I would suggest that if you can answer the above questions the easiest way forward is to create a new model (there are 20 available) and start afresh - we can help you do this!
Warning - before you do anything, REMOVE THE PROPELLER FROM THE MODEL - it is not impossible while altering settings on the transmitter for the motor to spring into life - you do not want a propeller revolving at high speed any time you're not expecting it!!
|Thread: Seagull Challenger - First kit Build - First IC|
Gsky, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send them to you.
Best not to put email addresses on a public forum!
Hi Gsky, do you gave a copy of the April 2015 article of the Challenger build?
If not it's well worth reading. I can scan the article for you if you would like it.
|Thread: Simulator for sanwa vanguard 35mhz|
Rogeo, forget the software on the CDs (unless you want to try the various offerings), go here instead and download the latest Phoenix simulator which certainly runs very well on Windows 10.
There are also loads of flying site and models to download. You only need Banggood for the dongle and cables.
Rogeo, the answer to your search is here **LINK**
If you look at what's included, there is a dongle (switchable for several different flight sims), a lead with a male mini phono jack at each end, one end plugs into the dongle, the other into either the transmitter, if applicable, or into an adaptor.
With this set there are three adaptors, a square one for Futaba type t/xs, a mini DIN and, the one I think you need, a standard DIN plug.
Also there are a couple of CDs, which will I expect have several flight sims on them, all for the princly sum of £10.43 delivered!
I have looked on Ebay and similar sites for this item dispatched from the UK. Whilst similar RC flight sims are available, they crucially do NOT included the DIN plug you need.
If you haven't already got an RC flight simulator programme, there was a discussion on this site recently about the Pheonix simulator (recommended) which is now available for free download.
Hope that helps, GDB
PS I have exactly the set shown and can take measurements etc. if required.
Edited By Caveman on 21/06/2020 13:47:39
|Thread: SLEC Fun Fly - Lockdown Project|
Nice to see the Funfly finished. I do like the colour scheme!
Looking forward to your report of its performance, so photos and, if possible, a video.
|Thread: Tracing my 1st plane|
Just had a browse on Google and found this Mentor -E
It fits the description of the OP, could be a possibility.
|Thread: sc 120 fs engine|
Just Engines have the needle, or complete nva, in stock.
|Thread: Copy of Tequila Sunrise magazine article needed|
Martin, it's on Outerzone.
See here Tequila Sunrise
Jack, type 'Mijet glider' into Google and you will find plenty of info.
There is a discussion on RC Groups about the Mijet II, and the penultimate posting gives an email address which may be helpful. See here.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Hi Bob, thanks for your comments.
The Vanguard appealed to me because, it's a warbird and I haven't flown one, it's not a Spitfire, Corsair, Hurricane, i.e. not popular and I quite liked the look of it!
Yesterday I finished my Vultee Vanguard P66 from the Nick Ziroli plan available on Outerzone, increased in size by 7.5% to 65" wingspan.
It's powered by an ASP91FS and fitted with HobbyKing retracts and oleo legs. The receiver is powered by two LiFe batteries through a HobbyKing electronic switch/regulator which automatically switches between the two batteries should one fail.
It's taken me since January 2019 to build (my longest previous build was just 5 weeks!) but in my defence it is the first time I've used planking and Poly-C+glass cloth. Also, plan leaves a lot to the builder to decide how to implement the various features
It weighs in at about 9lb. which seems a bit porky to me, but we'll find out if/how it flies whenever we finally get back to the field!
The cowl is split horizontally, and is removable in seconds, to save having to remove the spinner and prop to gain access to the motor, fuel-line etc.
Neither the colour scheme nor the spinner are meant to be scale-like, they are there to aid visibility and engine starting - all in all I'm pleased with the result.
|Thread: Scratch Build Twin|
I'm watching with interest. I'm a knife and sandpaper type, but love to see alternative methods of doing things. I'm also jealous of your ability with CAD etc!
Do keep posting.
|Thread: Mad idea?|
You're not alone, I also had exactly the same mad idea!
I bit the drone bullet by building a small drone by following BEB's (RIP) tutorial on this forum. I then bought an Eachine Racer 250, an altogether more capable machine.
Then I followed that with some Eachine EV800 'goggles.
All OK except the camera on the Racer suffers badly from flare when flying into bright sunshine, and not being a real drone fan I haven't flown it that much.
However, a fellow club member is a keen drone and FPV flier and I was interested to tune my goggles into his FPV flying and it looked good. He stressed how easy it is to fly FPV.
So I bought a cheap all-in-one camera/VTX from Banggood, the TX02 Pro.
I mounted it on top of my Multiplex Funcub and it powered from the main battery via a 5v BEC. At the field, I started by taxiing around to test the system, and, with everything working satisfactorily and me feeling somewhat anxious, took off.
Well, it was just as easy as claimed and really enjoyable!!
The downsides of my (really cheap) system are:
* I can't wear glasses while wearing the goggles - fortunately I'm short sighted but my eyes are about half an inch too close to the screen, so I can't see it 100% in focus
* Even if I could remedy the above , the resolution of the camera/screen is really not that good. Good enough to see where I'm going, but not good enough to show fine detail. My fellow club member has a DJI drone which has really sharp video, but for what it costs it should be good! I can't justify the cost!
* I can't record my flights, so will need to make a twin mount so I can use my Mobius camera at the same time.
Even given the above shortcomings I'm looking forward to having some more FPV flights as soon as the weather improves.
|Thread: Seagull Christen Husky|
Hi Max, search for 'Which engine ?' (without the inverted commas) in the search facility at the top right of this page.
It's a discussion about engines for Piper Cubs. My Super Cub is 205cm. w/s and 4kg in weight. The recommended engine, 91fs, was far too powerful and a 61fs proved to be must more suitable.
Even if the Husky needs more power, the Seagull website recommends a 91fs, so that should OK.
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