Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent|
Tosh, how about this:
also, Airtek Hobbies have an SC25A in stock (?)
or a 36 if you want a bit more grunt
Edited By Caveman on 13/01/2019 19:21:20
|Thread: Latent Servo Response|
Hi Dave, whilst I can't offer any suggestions at to your lack of elevator response, I can make a suggestion ref. a new set of wings for your Pulse XT 60.
When an attack of dumb-thumb reduced my Hobby King Soar 40 from this
I dissembled the wreckage, produced a set of plans,
and built a replica of the original, using all the original hardware. It flies just as well as the original plane.
It's not difficult to do as you can see how the original was made and mimic it.
As you only need the wings it shouldn't take too long.
Food for thought?
|Thread: Flying Aces Sportster|
FB3, if you look here **LINK** there are, rather poor, images of the pages from the magazine describing the Sportster.
I contemplated building one of there as I have a spare OS26FS looking for a plane, hence I searched the net for info.
In the end I think I may build something different, but, if yours turn out OK I may reconsider!!
Aha!! Just clicked on the above link and it does indeed display the pages in question, but, they're not exactly readable!!
If you're interested, send me a PM with you email address and I'll send the original files to you.
Edited By Caveman on 10/01/2019 17:38:10
|Thread: Priory Models Silhouette|
Martin, could this be what you're looking for?:
Mostly sports type models, but a couple of warbirds thrown in.
|Thread: SC52 2stroke issue.|
Snorbitz, I had one of these models some time ago. Sadly it didn't have a happy end
However, I can make a couple of observations.
The fuel tank doesn't sit properly if you use the 'standard' mount supplied with the kit - this photo shows that I had the same problem you have highlighted:
The solution, in order that the tank sits level, make a replacement support from a piece of light-ply.
You have found that the needle valve screwed itself in during flight. Looking at one of your photos, it looks as if the spring clip, which is there to prevent the valve moving, does not appear to have been installed correctly.
If you look at the following photo the tang of the spring, marked A, should be bearing against the knurled part of the needle valve marked B. That's how it looks to me! Simple remedy, slide the spring into the right position.
Mention was made earlier of a Pitts exhaust. This one shown is exactly what I used, and can be seen in this picture.
I agree that the noise it makes is awful !! I used it in my Peter Miller CAP20L until I couldn't stand it any longer and changed the Irvine 46 two-stroke for a four stroke - much nicer sound
|Thread: IC Engine Control|
Brian, assuming the transmitter you have is the T6K then look at this page:
The last item before 'Optional Accessories' is 6K V2 Manual, a link which opens a PDF of the manual.
Have a look at page 104 which explains setting up a throttle cut and assigning a switch.
The throttle trim used to adjust the throttle idle position to suit the current temperature and atmospheric conditions, whereas the throttle cut closes the throttle to stop the engine.
I always assign my throttle cut to a momentary (sprung) switch - this saves the frustration of trying to start the engine with a fully closed throttle because the throttle cut has been left active!
|Thread: Plane for new engine - any suggestions?|
Hi Martin, I've got an OS FS26 and I too am looking for a plane to suit.
This would be a simple build and looks like it would be suitable:
What do you think?
There are lots of other suitable plans on Outerzone, just have a browse.
|Thread: Connecting Throttle|
Nigel, I use the same system as the Dubro linkage shown by Percy. However, I make my own from pieces of aluminium angle.
This one is a little 'Heath Robinson' and really needs re-working, but it does the job.
I've just finished another one for my CAP20L which uses ball-joints and is a lot less embarrassing, but this shows the basic scheme.
Note that the base angle is held in place by the engine bolts which means that no additional fixings are required.
The blue 'washer' between the throttle arm and actuating rod is there to take up a bit of slack!! I would have used a ball link fixed to the throttle arm, but I didn't want to enlarge the hole in the throttle arm.
Hope this is helpful.
|Thread: Fitting Engine|
Nigel, that looks like the exhaust for a 52/61 size engine.
If you want the standard exhaust manifold & silencer then you can get them from Just Engines, £14.86 for the FS manifold 65-91, and £17.15 for the 65FSSIL silencer, total £32.01
But Weston UK list the manifold/silencer for their RCV58CD engine, item no. R120601, is listed at £18.95 complete.
See here **LINK**
I have both the SC(ASP)70FS and the RCV58CD and can confirm that the manifolds/silencers are interchangable. The only difference is that the RCV manifold is about 10mm shorter than the SC/ASP one.
Worth a call to Weston UK?
|Thread: AstroHog tailplane dimensions needed|
Hi Merco, if you don't get a definitive reply then the info you require can be taken from this plan
|Thread: Best First Three Point Undercarriage|
Neil, I bought a Soar 40 from Hobby King some while ago, for the princely sum of $66, when the pound was worth a bit more than now, so quite a cheap plane.
Here's mine fitted with an ASP61 four stroke
It's a brilliant flier, or it was until dumb thumbs wrote it off!
So I looked around for a replacement. The obvious plane was the Kyosho Calmato, of which the Soar is a clone, but they're rather expensive (Yorkshire heritage to the fore!) and I also looked at other low wing trikes. However, I then decided that as I like the Soar so much I'd scratch build a copy.
So I measured the wreckage, took templates from formers, wing ribs and the like and produced a set of drawings.
From the drawings I built 'Son of Soar'
This plane uses all the hardware from the original. It has flown very successfully with an ASP61 four stroke, ASP 40 and 46 As in the above photo) two strokes and now sports an OS52 four stroke.
The undercarriage has never caused a moments trouble, unlike my Nova 40 trainer which need the nose-wheel straightening after every flight!
I would say that if you can get a Soar 40 from your club-mate you won't be disappointed.
Incidentally, I did plan to make a clear canopy from a 2 litre lemonade bottle, but the canopy is too large! Hence the solid item. If I'd realised I would have designed the canopy to be smaller.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
Just out of interest, the FrSky Taranis can be changed from Mode 1 to Mode 2, or the reverse, quite quickly, as per this video
OK you have to unscrew a few screws, but let's face it if you can't do that you're probably in the wrong hobby!
|Thread: How to connect battery|
Hi Ron, as Frank said earlier the simplest solution is to use a 4cell, 4.8V Nihm pack such as this **LINK**
This particular one is from HobbyKing, but they are readily available elsewhere, albeit usually at a higher price!
From the picture of your railway engine I spy what I'm pretty sure is the wing of a HobbyKing Soar 40
If this is the plane in question then the above battery is ideal. I positioned the battery in mine under the fuel tank, wrapped in cushioning foam, and the plane balanced perfectly without any additional weight.
If you put yours in the same place you may possibly need an extension lead to reach the on/off switch.
Incidentally the Soar 40 is a great flyer!
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Sabre & MiG15 RCM&E 2018 Special|
Daithi, if you look closely you will see that there is no stock available from Banggood.
I do notice that they have this **LINK**
The thrust appears to be OK from a 3S battery, would it be suitable??
|Thread: Electronics advice for a beginner|
James, Emax stuff is of good quality and Robotbirds ESCs are also good (they're re-badged Hobbywing items) both of which I've used for years.
The items listed are fine for small, lightweight models.
You will appreciate that the specification of motors, batteries, ESC, servos and the like is relevant to the type and size of model they are to be used in, but certainly, these items can be 're-homed' into other small models should the current host meet an unfortunate end
Hi James, I've looked at the links above and no-one appears to have the Flitetest power pack F in stock, not even Flitetest themselves!
But, the individual items are available here:
ESC: **LINK** not the heli one listed, but why do you need a heli esc in a plane?
Incidentally the ESC won't come with a battery connection socket, so you'll have to solder one on, or get someone to do it for you, see here **LINK** for ones which will match the battery below (do take care with polarity when fitting!!)
Propeller: **LINK** OK it's a 'gas' prop but will be quite OK and it;s the only 6x3 I could find on the Robotbirds site!! (Trying to get everything from one location to save on postal charges - typical Yorkshireman!!)
Linkage stoppers: **LINK**
Y leads and extension leads : **LINK**
Allen key and etc. : **LINK**
Hope that covers most of what you need - if you need any further help, just ask.....
|Thread: Sport plane query Whizza / Tucano|
Hi Jon, I built a Nigel Hawes Tucano as part of the 2013 mass build.
It was my second build and it wasn't particularly difficult, especially as there several others building at the same time and there were plenty of build logs to watch, and learn from.
I made mine with a removable wing to make transport easier.
I was a bit surprised at the comment above which suggests the model needs to be flown quickly. I find mine can be flown at a good speed, but it also flies slowly without drama.
All round a good model and one I recommend.
|Thread: Seagull Extra EA300L firewall|
Well Snorbitz, my printed manual says 75mm, and that's where I started!!
I suspect that the 99mm given on the Seagull website is the correct (more appropriate) setting. I can't remember what result I got from the web CoG calculator, but it was certainly a fair distance further back than 75mm.
( I'm sure that companies like Seagull cut and paste from the manuals of previous models, but omit to fully change the pictures/wording and that's how these errors occur. I've seen some manuals where the odd page shows pictures and a build description of a completely different model!! )
My idea was to slowly move the CoG further and further back until I reached an optimal setting, but, as noted above, I never got that far...........
I can't recall whether I balanced it upside down or not. I always pick whichever way balances in the most stable manner.
Good luck with yours, it should last a bit longer if you can get it to balance properly.
|Thread: im now an X10 owner|
Just to add my thoughts....
I'm a Taranis user and I do most of my model setup directly onto the tx, not because I'm against using the Companion, but at the field it's much simpler to make amendments and adjustments without having to resort to a PC.
I'm not so sure that I'd find it easy to find my way round the tx menus if I wasn't familiar with them.
|Thread: Seagull Extra EA300L firewall|
Hi Snorbitz, sorry to be a bit tardy replying but I've been on grand-daughter duty for the last couple of days....
To answer you question, I fitted an Irvine 46 with Pitts exhaust in mine which provided a reasonable amount of power and the exhaust looked the part and made fitting the cowl easy.
Here it is ready for off. Looks the part (I removed the spats for flying) but read on...................
Now to the interesting bit!! My first problem was to actually got the thing off the ground! It was extremely reluctant to take to the skies. However, with a really long run at full power and eventually lots of elevator it left terra firma and at about 6 feet above the ground dropped the right wing alarmingly.
I managed to level it and as the speed increased it became a bit more manageable. It certainly looked the part in the air. However, it wouldn't loop at all, in-fact any application of up-elevator resulted in severe tip-stall.
I eventually got in down in one piece but is wasn't an enjoyable experience.
I couldn't help but suspect that it was far too nose-heavy, despite being balanced as per the Seagull manual. In order to check the balance position I entered the plane's details on a web-based CoG site. This gave a position much more rearward than the manual's.
So I reduce the nose-weight and tried again. This time it was somewhat improved. It still wouldn't loop, although, strangely enough it did when inverted!! I intended to gradually reduce the noseweight and see how things changed.
But, before I could do that I and another member flew a bit too close to one another, and, as I tried to take evasive action, the resulting tip-stall ended with the plane plunging 'head-first' into a ploughed field.
The remains now reside in the loft in a bin-bag. One of the pilot's currently flying my CAP 20L, and the other is in the garage awaiting his own cockpit. Of the plane itself, it's about time it found its way into the dustbin.
I would normally attempt a rebuild/repair but I really can't be bothered with this model.
Sorry I can't offer any further help, but I would check the CoG position before attempting to fly this model.
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