Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Best First Three Point Undercarriage|
Neil, I bought a Soar 40 from Hobby King some while ago, for the princely sum of $66, when the pound was worth a bit more than now, so quite a cheap plane.
Here's mine fitted with an ASP61 four stroke
It's a brilliant flier, or it was until dumb thumbs wrote it off!
So I looked around for a replacement. The obvious plane was the Kyosho Calmato, of which the Soar is a clone, but they're rather expensive (Yorkshire heritage to the fore!) and I also looked at other low wing trikes. However, I then decided that as I like the Soar so much I'd scratch build a copy.
So I measured the wreckage, took templates from formers, wing ribs and the like and produced a set of drawings.
From the drawings I built 'Son of Soar'
This plane uses all the hardware from the original. It has flown very successfully with an ASP61 four stroke, ASP 40 and 46 As in the above photo) two strokes and now sports an OS52 four stroke.
The undercarriage has never caused a moments trouble, unlike my Nova 40 trainer which need the nose-wheel straightening after every flight!
I would say that if you can get a Soar 40 from your club-mate you won't be disappointed.
Incidentally, I did plan to make a clear canopy from a 2 litre lemonade bottle, but the canopy is too large! Hence the solid item. If I'd realised I would have designed the canopy to be smaller.
|Thread: Which Set Should I buy|
Just out of interest, the FrSky Taranis can be changed from Mode 1 to Mode 2, or the reverse, quite quickly, as per this video
OK you have to unscrew a few screws, but let's face it if you can't do that you're probably in the wrong hobby!
|Thread: How to connect battery|
Hi Ron, as Frank said earlier the simplest solution is to use a 4cell, 4.8V Nihm pack such as this **LINK**
This particular one is from HobbyKing, but they are readily available elsewhere, albeit usually at a higher price!
From the picture of your railway engine I spy what I'm pretty sure is the wing of a HobbyKing Soar 40
If this is the plane in question then the above battery is ideal. I positioned the battery in mine under the fuel tank, wrapped in cushioning foam, and the plane balanced perfectly without any additional weight.
If you put yours in the same place you may possibly need an extension lead to reach the on/off switch.
Incidentally the Soar 40 is a great flyer!
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Sabre & MiG15 RCM&E 2018 Special|
Daithi, if you look closely you will see that there is no stock available from Banggood.
I do notice that they have this **LINK**
The thrust appears to be OK from a 3S battery, would it be suitable??
|Thread: Electronics advice for a beginner|
James, Emax stuff is of good quality and Robotbirds ESCs are also good (they're re-badged Hobbywing items) both of which I've used for years.
The items listed are fine for small, lightweight models.
You will appreciate that the specification of motors, batteries, ESC, servos and the like is relevant to the type and size of model they are to be used in, but certainly, these items can be 're-homed' into other small models should the current host meet an unfortunate end
Hi James, I've looked at the links above and no-one appears to have the Flitetest power pack F in stock, not even Flitetest themselves!
But, the individual items are available here:
ESC: **LINK** not the heli one listed, but why do you need a heli esc in a plane?
Incidentally the ESC won't come with a battery connection socket, so you'll have to solder one on, or get someone to do it for you, see here **LINK** for ones which will match the battery below (do take care with polarity when fitting!!)
Propeller: **LINK** OK it's a 'gas' prop but will be quite OK and it;s the only 6x3 I could find on the Robotbirds site!! (Trying to get everything from one location to save on postal charges - typical Yorkshireman!!)
Linkage stoppers: **LINK**
Y leads and extension leads : **LINK**
Allen key and etc. : **LINK**
Hope that covers most of what you need - if you need any further help, just ask.....
|Thread: Sport plane query Whizza / Tucano|
Hi Jon, I built a Nigel Hawes Tucano as part of the 2013 mass build.
It was my second build and it wasn't particularly difficult, especially as there several others building at the same time and there were plenty of build logs to watch, and learn from.
I made mine with a removable wing to make transport easier.
I was a bit surprised at the comment above which suggests the model needs to be flown quickly. I find mine can be flown at a good speed, but it also flies slowly without drama.
All round a good model and one I recommend.
|Thread: Seagull Extra EA300L firewall|
Well Snorbitz, my printed manual says 75mm, and that's where I started!!
I suspect that the 99mm given on the Seagull website is the correct (more appropriate) setting. I can't remember what result I got from the web CoG calculator, but it was certainly a fair distance further back than 75mm.
( I'm sure that companies like Seagull cut and paste from the manuals of previous models, but omit to fully change the pictures/wording and that's how these errors occur. I've seen some manuals where the odd page shows pictures and a build description of a completely different model!! )
My idea was to slowly move the CoG further and further back until I reached an optimal setting, but, as noted above, I never got that far...........
I can't recall whether I balanced it upside down or not. I always pick whichever way balances in the most stable manner.
Good luck with yours, it should last a bit longer if you can get it to balance properly.
|Thread: im now an X10 owner|
Just to add my thoughts....
I'm a Taranis user and I do most of my model setup directly onto the tx, not because I'm against using the Companion, but at the field it's much simpler to make amendments and adjustments without having to resort to a PC.
I'm not so sure that I'd find it easy to find my way round the tx menus if I wasn't familiar with them.
|Thread: Seagull Extra EA300L firewall|
Hi Snorbitz, sorry to be a bit tardy replying but I've been on grand-daughter duty for the last couple of days....
To answer you question, I fitted an Irvine 46 with Pitts exhaust in mine which provided a reasonable amount of power and the exhaust looked the part and made fitting the cowl easy.
Here it is ready for off. Looks the part (I removed the spats for flying) but read on...................
Now to the interesting bit!! My first problem was to actually got the thing off the ground! It was extremely reluctant to take to the skies. However, with a really long run at full power and eventually lots of elevator it left terra firma and at about 6 feet above the ground dropped the right wing alarmingly.
I managed to level it and as the speed increased it became a bit more manageable. It certainly looked the part in the air. However, it wouldn't loop at all, in-fact any application of up-elevator resulted in severe tip-stall.
I eventually got in down in one piece but is wasn't an enjoyable experience.
I couldn't help but suspect that it was far too nose-heavy, despite being balanced as per the Seagull manual. In order to check the balance position I entered the plane's details on a web-based CoG site. This gave a position much more rearward than the manual's.
So I reduce the nose-weight and tried again. This time it was somewhat improved. It still wouldn't loop, although, strangely enough it did when inverted!! I intended to gradually reduce the noseweight and see how things changed.
But, before I could do that I and another member flew a bit too close to one another, and, as I tried to take evasive action, the resulting tip-stall ended with the plane plunging 'head-first' into a ploughed field.
The remains now reside in the loft in a bin-bag. One of the pilot's currently flying my CAP 20L, and the other is in the garage awaiting his own cockpit. Of the plane itself, it's about time it found its way into the dustbin.
I would normally attempt a rebuild/repair but I really can't be bothered with this model.
Sorry I can't offer any further help, but I would check the CoG position before attempting to fly this model.
|Thread: Motor Mystery|
Levanter, this motor looks suspiciously like the one you have;
There's a pdf spec sheet on the page.
|Thread: Oracover(profilm), solarfilm & HK Film|
Geoff, ref. cleaning the white glue residue,
I use acetone - actually I use Boots nail varnish remover, the cheap/budget stuff £1 per bottle. Shifts it almost instantly!!
|Thread: what grass treatment do you use?|
Cliff, we've just treated about 900 sq.yds of our grass with this:
Can't comment on the effectiveness at this stage as it has only been applied for a few days, but fingers crossed!
|Thread: Taranis Checklist|
Aha! No golf today due to thunderstorms and rain, so, I'm now onto OpenTx 2.2.1
I copied all the images and sounds from the 'old' SD card as the 2.2V0013 didn't come with many sounds and no images.
Happy bunny now.
Might investigate the Amber sounds pack later.
Thanks for your help, GDB
BEB, Andy & Matty, many thanks for your replies.
Quite right! You've given me the incentive and I must drag myself into the 21st Century and update to OpenTx 2.2.
I'll do it , hopefully, this weekend.
If I encounter any problems, I'll be back!
Thanks for your reply BEB.
I have actually managed to get it to work. The CAP_20L.txt file in the last photo above is the checklist for my CAP and it works perfectly.
However, while I have separate model definition entries for some models, Easyglider, Microcub and Supercub, these are only 3 models out of more than 12 I have created.
So why is there not a file for my Magnatilla, or CAP for example?
There doesn't seem to be any consistency!!
I realise that as long as I can create a checklist which is recognised it really doesn't matter, I'd just like to know why it's like it is....
We had a discussion yesterday about the availability of a checklist function for the Taranis, either to check the status of a model before flight, or as a memory aid to the functionality of the switches etc. for a particular model.
I attempted to set up a checklist for my CAP20L as an example this afternoon.
To this end I watched a video on YouTube and it all appeared to be fairly simple.
The video suggested that for every model there would be an entry in the MODELS directory of the SD card. But, when I looked at the contents of my SD card this is not the case!
These are the models as they appear on the tx screen
This is them downloaded into Companion
i.e. one and the same. However this is the contents of the SD card
My Easyglider, Super Cub and MicroCub appear as individual models, but none of the others do!
I don't have a Slow Stick,I think this must be a deleted model.
Does anyone know what's going on?
PS The CAP_20L txt file is for that model and does indeed display, even though the model doesn't!
|Thread: Chapter One Rib Section|
No need to pursue Sarik; I've got the magazine with the original 3 channel Chapter One plan (November 2014) and the one with the aileron wing plan (November 2015)
If you pm me with your address I'll stick both plans in the post to you. I not going to build a Chapter One or A Cruiser so I don't need them.
Also, do you have copies of the build articles (there were about 7 in total) which were published in RCM&E early in 2014?
If not, also let me have your email address by PM and I'll scan them and email them to you so that you have the full picture!
Hi John, plans in pdf format can be printed to any size you require by printing in them 'tiled' on multiple sheets, which can then be taped together to recreate a full size plan.
It's a bit long winded but it means you can do it 'in house'.
Assuming you're using an up-to-date copy of Acrobat Reader, than set it up as follows:
Select your printer
Ensure 'All' pages are set to print
Click on the 'Poster' box as shown - this should show, in the preview pane, the drawing overcast with the lines to represent the multiple pages which will be printed.
Note: you can print the plan at any scale by altering the scale figure.
If the 'cut marks' box is checked then alignment marks will be printed in each corner of each output page to allow for accurate alignment.
Then click on 'Print'
Lastly, spend a long time sticking the pages together!!
PS Use a straight edge laid along straight lines , eg wing spars & fuselage lower edge, when joining the pages to ensure correct alignment and avoid wavy edges
|Thread: What are the rules?|
David, no mystery about the pronunciation of Leonhard Euler's name. He was born in the German speaking part of Switzerland, and in the German language 'eu' is pronounced 'oy', hence his name sounds like 'oyler'.
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