Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What are the rules?|
Hi, I've got two relevant pdfs, both from the internet, but I've no idea where from!!
The first about aerodynamics (quite detailed enough for modellers) and the second describing the design of a trainer, including the maths necessary to explain the choices of the dimensions.
If you would like them PM me with you email address and I'll send then to you.
|Thread: OS MAX40 fp Carbeurator|
There's one for sale here:
Bit pricey but if you really want one.....
|Thread: Greg's Cap 20L 2018 Mass Build|
Hi Greg, simply took the published plan to Staples and ask them to copy it 12% larger! In all they made 4 copies and it cost me about £12.
Unfortunately with the demise of Staples in the UK that's no longer a possibility. However, there are other print companies who can do this, it's just a case of finding one in your locality.
Alternatively you can scan the original drawing in parts, e.g. ribs and formers, and print at 112%, but that takes a lot longer and is potenetially more error prone.
|Thread: Paul's CAP 20 L build 2018 MB|
My model is covered in HobbyKing film, as are all my scratchbuilt models. I've never used Solarfilm, or anything else for that matter, as the HK stuff is half the price!!
In this case the coloured flashes are adhesive backed commercial sign makers plastic film, given to me by a club member, having been rescued by him just as it was about to be dumped in a skip!
I attach the film at 100 deg C with no sock, and then shrink it tight at around 140/150 deg C with sock. It goes round curves etc. quite well.
The lettering and logo are inkjet printed onto clear decal paper.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on.
|Thread: Greg's Cap 20L 2018 Mass Build|
Hi Greg, when I built my model, a year or so ago, I trawled the internet and found a reasonable amount of info about the CAP 20 L including the photo of IZAB. I even found the Viterbo club website and logo, which I reproduced on the fin of my model.
However, I've done a search today and can't find much at all, not even a photo of IZAB with spats, and I've definately seen one in the past.
So I don;t know where they've all gone. But, the colour scheme you've found look good to me, and I'm looking forward to seeing your finished model.
PS I make a kit of parts before starting to build, and for a model like this with the inset ailerons towards the wing tips, separate servos in each wing is my preferred method. Even if you don't have spare TX channels a Y lead operates them.
|Thread: Paul's CAP 20 L build 2018 MB|
Hi Paul, I haven't progressed to making canopies yet, so I used the 'standard' Vortex canopy and with a bit of careful trimming it does the job quite nicely. Although it's smaller than scale (?) who would know?
Here it is, complete with pilot and FrSky GPS unit.
I do like the way you've designed the cowl. That should be a good sturdy fit, and easily removable.
As I fitted my engine sideways I made the lower half fixed and the upper half removable.
Also, note the Aluminium spinner - much better!
Incidentally, although my first few flight were fine, take-offs and landings were not. The model nosed-over at the slightest provocation.
I have now bent the legs much further forward and that's solved the problem. I don't know if I installed the leg mountings in the wing at the wrong angle, or what, but this is where the legs are currently.
Just one more poimt; going back to the GPS unit installed, this shows that the plane is easily capable of well over 80 mph ground speed, and there's no hint of flutter, so perhaps the counter weighing is doing its job
HI, i agree with Paul, spats and longish grass are probably not a good mix!
This is my CAP 20 L, from Peter's plan but increased in size by 12% ( I had an Irvine 46 with Pitts exhaust, and as the plan was originally based on a 32 I went for a larger airframe)
It's based on a this full size example:
I felt that as the full size plane didn't have spats I was justified in keeping to the scale-look and left them off.
PS Mine's now got an aluminium spinner in place of the white plastic one, even more scale!
|Thread: Lipo storage, slight swell|
Hi Tony, I've got this charger, which is mentioned above:
You can read the manual here:
It will do all the functions you need.
As far as I'm concerned it's a cracking bit of kit!
|Thread: Ford Flivver - Help needed|
Martin, I've used this formula to determine wingspan or engine size when scaling a plan. It's from a previous discussion thread on this forum:
This would suggest a 1.00 FS, so perhaps a 0.91 FS would be suitable.
An excellent result. I've thoroughly enjoyed following your refurbishment.
Next job, a decent video is needed.
However, no music please, I can't understand why people make videos of planes and then replace the audio with music! I want to hear the engine(s), and I'm sure I'm not alone....
|Thread: Piper J3 Cub|
John, have a look here:
It's the right wingspan, but, a different reg. number. However, Super Flying Models make a larger model:
This one has the same reg. no., so the smaller one could have used your number in the past when suppied to a different importer?
|Thread: Friday the 13th|
Too bad Steve,
I had a Hobbyking Soar 40, a Calmato lookalike/copy (?). It was a lovely flier, which met its maker due not to any mechanical or electrical failure, but by my brain malfunction!
I looked around for a replacement, but finally decided to recreate it from new.
So, from the remains I drew up plans;
and built a new one, using all the salvaged hardware..
I intended to make a canopy from a coke bottle, but the bottles are all too small. Had I realised that before hand I could have made the canopy shorter. In the end I made one from balsa and painted it.
It flies just as well as the original - well worth the effort.
|Thread: key fob camera|
Here's how I mounted mine on my Whizzkid glider. The mounting plate is held by the wing mouting screw.
I worked very well - I used plenty of bands as I didn't want it to fall off in flight!
|Thread: OS max 20 carb|
Hi Brian, David's comments above are probably the best way to go, but, if you want the challange of doing it yourself, the adjustment instructions are:
Brian, here's the info you're looking for
I've got 2 1A carbs and a 1G - they all have a fair amount of end float, somewhere around 1.5 to 2mm, so perhaps it's normal.
Do you have the instructions for adjusting the needle valve and air-bleed screw? If not I'll scan those and post them.
|Thread: Help with identifying an unknown plane(Kit)|
Colin, it's not a CAP 20L as this plane has the undercarriage set in the wings.
Here's my model from Peter Miller's plan
However, Traplet have Peter's plan from August 2007 for the CAP21 which has the u/c just like your model here
The wingspan is given as 53", but that may not be reliable.
|Thread: Taranis question|
Here's how I do it:
On the 'inputs' page, edit the throttle input setting for 'Offset' give a value of 20.
This will cause the servo movement related to the throttle stick to be from -80 to +100.
On the 'Special functions' page I set switch H to override the throttle channel with a value of -100. This closes the throttle to below the set idle and will cut the engine. I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released.
You will, of course, have to adjust the throttle servo linkage to operate the throttle from idle to fully open using the -80 to +100 range.
PS If that's not clear I can add some photo of my screens if necessary, just ask.
Edited By Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:32:30
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
First outing this year, 5th January I had an attack of dumb-thumbs and managed to destroy my go-to model, a HK Soar 40
After I'd removed all salvagable parts, the remainder went into the dustbin.
I had a trawl round the internet for a replacement but didn't really fancy any of the candidates, except the Kyosho Calmato, which is identical to the Soar 40, but quite pricy at £125!
So, the remains were extracted from the bin and thoroughly inspected and measured. I also extracted a wing rib to ensure the correct aerofoil.
From the measurements I drew up a set of plans and set about building a replica, 'Son of Soar'!
An order to SLEC and a fews weeks later, 'Son of Soar' is ready to fly. I made a few design changes to suit the available materials, e.g. a balsa turtle deck rather than the balsa covered foam of the original and solid balsa sides rather than laser-cut ply, but, the replica feels no heavier than the original and is definitely stronger!
Curiously, if anything, it's slightly nose heavy, even with the receiver battery right at the back of the canopy, whereas in the original the battery was under the fuel tank, just behind the firewall.
All we need now is a bit of decent weather and we'll see how it flies.
Incidentally, I did intend to make a clear canopy from a 2 litre Cola bottle, but it wasn't big enough! I even had my pilot ready for action, but I hadn't realised how big the canopy is. Had I known I'd have made it a little smaller.
Also, the motor is now an ASP 46, the ASP61FS I first used is now powering a Super Cub.
|Thread: Futaba 9251 Servo|
Servos available here:
|Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano|
Hi Tom, as you haven't had a reply yet, I thought I'd jump in an offer my observations.
I use a single 2200mAh battery 25C, Tower Pro MG90S servos, Emax GT2815/07 motor with APC 11x5.5E prop and, 40A ESC.
The motor provides about 350 Watts and provides quite a llvely performance.
I did try running 2x2200 batteries in parallel, mainly to increase the weight of the plane for better capability in windy weather. However, the extra weight did reduce the agility of the plane more than I liked, although the endurance increased significantly, so I went back to only one battery.
I have since experimented with an Orange stabiliser/gyro, which does help in gusty weather, but isn't really necessary.
I've a build log of my efforts here **LINK**
Hope that helps.
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