Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vortex Vacforms|
David, yes they sre still in business.
On this page **LINK**
there is a hotmail email address which is/was current in an January 2016 - I know 'cause I've just bought a canopy from him.
I knew which item I needed but couldn't get the order system to work, so I emailed him and he responded very quickly. I sent a cheque (how old fashioned is that?) and received the canopy in less than a week.
Good luck, GDB
|Thread: gap between fin & elevator|
Tony, watch this
Hi Trevor, good to hear of excellent service.
Just a couple of thoughts:-
(i) have you checked that both your (new) transmitter and receiver(s) are all either, pre EU standard or all to the EU standard. Otherwise they won't bind.
(ii) Assuming that they will bind satisfactorily, then you will have the perfect system with which to maiden previously unflown models, like a Puppeteer for example.
|Thread: Help Required|
Richard, glad you've got it sorted!
The battery port is at the other end of the receiver, port 7.
Fingers crossed that it flies. Do ensure that the ailerons and elevator operate in the right direction - more experienced people than you have got it wrong.
Mowerman, my thought exactly!!
Richard, I strongly suspect, having watched your video again, that if you move the servo plugs all down one slot, i.e. what is now in slot 2 into slot 1 and so on, then all will be well!!
Richard, I think I can see where you're going wrong.
I have extracted this photo from your video.....
You will notice that you have nothing connected to the set of pins highlighted - according to the manual this is channel 1 and should be connected to the aileron servo.
However, this may not be the case. So, in order to proceed I would suggest that you establish which channel is which by a process of elimination.
(1) Disconnect the three wire which connect the ESC to the motor. That will stop the incessant noise from the motor and allow you to think!
(2) Plug the servo lead from the ESC into the topmost connector (channel 7) on the receiver. This will power the ESC.
(3) Plug only one of the servo leads into channel 1
(4) Connect the battery, and then operate each transmitter stick in turn and observe which one moves the servo.
(5) Lets say that moving the right-hand stick up and down moves the servo, then that channel works the elevator.
(6) Try each channel in turn, from 1 to 6, until you have established the channels for elevator, aileron, rudder and throttle. Whereas the control surface channels will self-centre, the throttle channel will move the servo from one extreme to the other.
(7) Having established which is the throttle channel, disconnect the battery. Then, plug the ESC into the throttle channel and other servos into their correct channels. Then re-connect the three motor wires.
(8) Reconnect the battery and see what happens. The ailerons etc. should now be operated by the correct stick. It may be that the motor still bleeps, and the surfaces move in reverse, but that can be addressed separately.
Please try this and do let us know how you get on.
Incidentally, whereabouts in country are you?
Richard, I also don't know this transmitter, but I've downloaded the manual. The throttle is on channel 3 and this is the same as Futaba radios.
On that basis it may well be that the other channels follow the Futaba basic scheme. So, the ailerons will be on channel 1, elevator on channel 2, throttle on channel 3 and rudder on channel 4.
Plug the relevant servo into the receiver. Do make sure the connector is the right way round, i.e. black wire furthest from the aerials, red in the middle and the signal wire (usually white or orange) closest to the aerials.
Assuming your throttle stick is the left hand one, then (with propeller removed), switch on the transmitter, then the receiver. If you have already correctly bound the receiver, then the left hand stick horizontal movement should operate the rudder, and the right hand stick should operate the ailerons when moved horizontally and the elevator when moved vertically.
Have a go at this and let us know how you get on!
|Thread: help with flight stabilzer needed|
Hi Alan, I'm assuming that you are using channel 5 to switch the stabilisation on and off?
If so then it's similar to the Orange flight stabiliser.
Try reversing channel 5 and see if that has the desired effect. On the Orange stabiliser I couldn't switch on/off with the channel in normal operation, but, changing to reverse got it working straight away.
|Thread: Buddy Futaba T8J and Spektrum Dx6i|
Martin, see my post here
This saves lots of frustration and expense!
|Thread: Small can be beautiful|
So, been out in the garden 'flying' my quad. I had to place an order for a massive number of props, I've getting through them at a fair rate!
I decided that a larger base was needed to prevent it falling over on my rather poor arrivals. A trip to B&Q produced some 7.5mm sqaure aluminium tube, from which I've made a 250mm cross. This is fitted to the bottom of the quad using longer screws. It works well.
Having fitted the u/c I decided that it was time to do a decent and tidy job of fixing the motors and ESCs. Until this morning the ESCs have been dangling and the motors secured by only 2 screws.
So, ESCs secured, u/c fixed and motors attached by four screws each, it was back to the garden for a trial flight.
I armed the quad and the motors started, but, as soon as I increased the throttle motor 9 started stuttering really badly. I reset everything and tried again, but with the same result. The motor was very hot to the touch.
Now, I remembered Chris Bott having the same problem, so resigned myself to having to buy a new motors. Just, to be sure it was a motor problem and not the ESC I connected the motor to another ESC, with the same result.
Not being one to accept defeat, and expense, easily, I retired to the garage with the offending motor. I prised the circlip from the motor shaft. The circlip pinged off and flew into the darkest recesses of the garage (didn't matter as I considered the motor was kaput anyway), and pulled the motor apart.
Everything looked OK, all the circuits had a 5 Ohm resistance and all the magents were secure, so I was at a loss to understand why it wouldn't work.
However, when I looked closely a the motor coils directly under the fixed cover of the motor, where the fixing screws go, I noticed that the copper wire coils were abraded. The fixing screw ends had scraped on the wires!!
I put the motor back together, minus the circlip, and replaced it in the quad using only 2 screws, each with a washer to effectively shorten them, and fired it up.
All the motors started and reved up to full throttle!! I did notice that motor 11 stopped before the other each time, so I removed 2 screws from the mount, and this time it started and stopped in synch with the others. All the motors were now running cool, no overheating.
Problem solved! The supplied mounting screws are too long and rub against the motor coils, presumably shorting some of the wiring and electrically unbalancing the motor.
To restore the motor to its former glory I then needed the circlip! I attached some magnets, wrapped in masking tape, to the end of a length of carbon fibre tube, and dragged it around the floor, behind the rubbish and through countless cobwebs, knowing I was wasting my time. But, after 30 seconds there was the circlip stuck fast to the magents, together with loads of iron filings, strands of wire-wool and the like. The motor is now returned to full health.
I would suggest that any other X230 builders look closely at the motor fixing screws and be prudent by inserting a washer, or two, under the screw heads.
Incidentally, while sorting all this out I removed the propeller guards. My propeller destruction ratio is now minimal! I'm pretty sure that the guards, bending upwards on impact, were breaking the props quite efficiently!
Hope this helps, GDB
|Thread: Steerable tail wheels|
This is how it is done on the SLEC Funfly, a brass loop with a length of fuel tube as a shock absorber:
Simple and effective!
|Thread: buddy box setup|
I use a buddy system from HobbyKing:
The system is merely a switch, which, together with the master and buddy receivers, is installed in the plane.
The buddy needs only turn up with transmitter and bound receiver and, after a few checks and adjustments, we can fly. The master can instantly take control at any time.
The real appeal of this system is that slave and master can be entirely different systems. Mode 1 can be mixed with mode 2, 35MHz with 2.4 GHz, Futaba with Spektum etc. etc.
I have the four channel one, but an eight channel version is available for more advanced models.
It's very cheap, reliable and versatile.
|Thread: Small can be beautiful|
Just got my quad built.
Tried a few flights this evening, which resulted in 5 broken props!! I guess I'll have to order some more pretty quickly as I'm now on my last set!
My last flight, in angle mode, ended with the quad disappearing over the garden hedge and colliding with a small copse of trees! It took ages to find it, and then I had to lash two long bamboo canes together to reach it. However, no damage, other than, yet another, chipped prop!
I was actually more successful in manual mode!
I'm going to have to devise a way of indicating which is the front of the machine and make some sort of feet, to make it more stable on the ground and when landing.
Incidentally I'm using an Frsky D4R-II receiver in CPPM mode, so only one lead between the receiver and the FC. It seems to work well and, even allowing for the warning fro Frsky about it not being reliable when 8 channels are in use, it will provide the 6 channels needed for this project.
Just got to get in some more practise, order some more props and wait for the GPS equipment to arrive from China. Then the fun starts all over again.........
Thanks very much BEB, all items now ordered.
I'm really looking forward to having a go at this, it's something quite different.
If I can get it all working properly I'll mount my Mobius on it for a bit of aerial photography.
On the asumption that it will take a while for all the component parts to arrive, and I've got some substantial domestic DIY to complete, it will be a few weeks before building can begin.
So, those of you with all the answers and experience have a few weeks grace before I begin pulling my hair out (what's left of it) and bombard you with questions - stand by!
I've been following this, and I'm quite keen to have go.
To that end I've been drawing up a list of items needed. The only item I can't identify, and forgive me if I've missed it in the, lengthy, thread, is the ublox to I2C translator board. Can you give either, a specification for the board, or, a link to where it may be obtained?
|Thread: The Atom Special|
Rich, just had a look at your 'RC Autogyro Developments' site, to which you linked in your post above.
Just to let you know that my model is shown twice, an accolade I'm sure it doesn't deserve!
It's the shown in the left hand column, 4th row down, and at the very bottom of the second row.
Last Monday I decided that, as the weather was reasonable, it was time I maidened my Atom Special.
The grass and dandelions at our field were a bit on the long side, but there was a good breeze to spin up the rotor.
My first problem was keeping the take off run straight. Then, when I did achieve lift, it simply veered to the left and tipped over.
Eventually I managed a straight(ish) run and she lifted off gracefully, and vertically! First time I've ever prop-hung anything!!
Thinking the angle of attack of the rotors was too great, I reduced it and tried again. Off she went, airborne but almost uncontrollable. The flight ended as she nose dived into the potato field next to our strip. No damage except a broken prop.
Over the next half hour took off another half-a-dozen times, ending with the same number of
This culminated in a broken mast, but no other damage.
Back at base, out with old mast and a new one made. I also installed the ESC under the body to allow more room in the battery bay.
Took her to the field yesterday, with much reduced angle of attack on the rotor, and, despite an audience, she took off beautifully. I flew a couple or three circuits and attempted to land. I expected this to be a real handfull, but she simply descended steadily and, with a touch of flare, landed light as a feather.
One more equally sucessful flight ensued, and I put her away while I was on top!
All in all really pleased with it, just need some more practise and adjustment to the servo throws.
Thanks to Richard for a great design......
Glyn, it's probably easier to use a plastic spinner to begin with. They're readily available in all sizes and colours, and are quite cheap.
The prop is fitted first, followed by the backplate, then the washer and prop nut. The spinner then is screwed on with two screws. See below:
I know this is an IC motor but there's no difference
Another type of spinner uses a metal backplate with a plastic spinner held on with two screws. A similar principle.
The type of spinner which is in your photo has a central screw. This needs a prop nut/adaptor which replaces the standard prop nut and has the threaded central hole to take the fixing bolt.
Note that whichever type you use you may have to ease the prop blade apertures such that the blades are not in contact with the backplate or spinner, depending on the type
Hope this helps, GDB
Glyn, rather than use plain 'washers', the following fixing is a lot easier, and has the advantage of adjustability.
Fix the magnet to the removeable section, and insert a small woodscrew into the fixed part. Turning the woodscrew allows for precise adjustment so that the magnet holds firm and the gap between the hatch and the fuselage is optimum.
Below are photos of the motor/ESC access hatch on my Tucano
Hope this helps, cheers GDB
|Thread: New FrSky EU firmware - an unwelcome surprise|
OK, I've tried to bind a brand-new, 2015 EU version X8R in D8 mode and it wasn't the slightest bit interested!
Changed to D16 mode and it bound instantly.
So, if like me you're new to things Taranis and have only 2015 X series receivers then the EU transmitter update XJT_eu_150413.frk is the way to go, but, if you've got pre-2015 receivers requiring D8 mode then it's probably best to stick with XJT_eu_150122.frk.
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