Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Recommend a M/R for some OLD lads to have a dabble|
John, two of us in my club have the Eachine 250 racer with CC3D controller.
The other member has quite a lot of experience with a Phantom 2, whereas I have built the HK machine which was the subject of BEB's self-build thread, and have flown it briefly.
In order to try a 'more commercial' machine I bought the Racer 250 from Banggood - it came with an FPV screen and 2 batteries as a promotion for just under £100, good deal!.
I was pleasantly surprised at its stability and ease of control. However, it has no GPS or height stability, and as such needs to be flown at all times, no hands-off while it hovers until you've thought what to do next!!
Having said that it's great fun and when the weather improves I'll get practising.
Also, parts are readily (subject to delivery times from China) available for these machines, so if the worst happens it can be rescued.
The next step is to get some goggles and the screen is not easy to see in bright daylight, so not ideal for FPV use.
I'd recommend it, but I'm not aware of the difference between the various flight controllers, so can't comment on these.
|Thread: poor running sc 46|
I had a similar problem. There were air bubbles in the fuel line, but not always.
The answer was the 'brass' used in the fuel tank, which had been badly corroded by glow fuel, allowing air into the system when the tank got below approx. 50%.
Now replaced with aluminium and no further problems.
|Thread: Dakota DC3|
JM Bodey plan is available here.
|Thread: Surrey Flying Services AL-1|
Tony, also found this pdf about Slamson engines.
The main text is about the AD.9, but towards the end mentions the AC.5, AC.7 and AC.9 and suggests that the AC types have interchangeable cylinders, so, it's probable that the appearance of these engines is very similar save the number of cylinders.
If you can find a photo of any of these engines then you should have a good idea what they look like.
Tony, found this photo of G-AALP showing the AC.7 engine, but not very good definition.
|Thread: Summer is here!!....Who's been flying??|
As the weather today was as good as it's been for quite some time, I took the opportunity to have an hour or two at the field.
Flew my Soar 40, currently powered by an ASP 46 - excellent performer and a steal at the price from HK - pity it's not still being sold.
Having got a feel for it, I then maidened my CAP 20.
It's from the Peter Miller plan, increased in size by 12% to 56" wingspan, and powered by an Irvine 46 with a Just Engines Pitts exhaust.
Well, it's certainly lively! I was a little nervous, worried about having enough runway to gain sufficient speed for takeoff. In the event I opened the throttle and it took off in no more than 6 feet! Plenty of power then!!
I initally used a 3 blade 10x7 prop. I thought the engine was revving quite fast and creating a rather annoying noise - the exhaust didn't help being rather louder than the original. I tried a 2 blade 11x7 and then a 2 blade 12x6. The 12x6 certainly seemed to suit it better - might try a 13x6 next time.
Altogether though a satisfactory day. I shall consider the CAP build to be my tribute to Peter Miller as I didn't get involved in the mass build this year.
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot Motor|
Steve, I've two of the Emax BL2815-09 motors for a few years now, and both have been fine.
On 3S with 40A ESC and 11x7 prop they give around 400 Watts.
Both have had new bearings and shafts, but this was due to the (poor) quality of my flying when learning!!
|Thread: Sitting down whilst flying - what do you use?|
One of our club members has one of these. It has a padded swivelling sheet and packs away into a small bag:-
Not the cheapest, but I tried it and found it quite comfortable and the swivelling seat allows you to follow your plane without twisting your body.
|Thread: Hobby King - a good result|
I thought it would be interesting to others if I let you know about my very recent, excellent experience of Hobby King.
I ordered some goods from the Global Warehouse, including two Master Airscrew 3 bladed propellers. I have ordered these before so didn't expect any problems.
I placed my order on 15th June and received them last Friday, so pleased with the quick service.
On opening the parcel I realised that the propllers received were 'pusher' props, rather than the tractor type I needed for my ASP91FS.
I investigated and realised that the error was mine, what a numpty
So, what to do with two, to me, useless props? The value ins't high, but it goes against the grain to just discard them.
Looking at the HK website I came across their 'No Fuss Returns' policy. This allows customers to return goods which have been ordered by mistake or simply not wanted. I filled in the form, checked to see if I was elligible for free return postage (I was), and a printed postage paid return label for the goods to go to HK in Norfolk, even though they originally came from the Global Warehouse.
(Incidentally, don't try printing the return postage label at the week-end as the date won't be recognised - I had to wait until Monday.
So parcelled the props in the original box, stuck the postage label on the box and dropped it off at the local Post Office. I even got a receipt of postage and a tracking number!
Checked my HK account yesterday and result !! I have been credited with the full value of the props.
I read lots of reports complaining about HK's service, so I thought I would redress the balance somewhat and let fellow forumites know that this facility exists.
|Thread: V tail set up|
Well done Keith!!
The reason I didn't persever with channel 5 was that the Gear switch is still active and can't be over-ridden - but, as you have found, it can be made to work. Just leave the Gear switch in one position.
I have set up my 'test piece' as you describe and, yes, it works perfectly.
No need to buy a new t/x now......
A good result, and just shows what can be achieved with a little perceverance and ingenuity.
PS I use a Taranis now for most of my flying - what you wanted to achieve would have been really simple, so when you out-grown the 6EX it might be worth having a look in the FrSky direction.
Keith, I thought that I'd cracked it when I used channel 6 as a slave of the rudder channel 4 and it could control a nosewheel servo. BUT, although it controlled the nosewheel it also responded to the aileron stick.
So, I conclude that the separate VTail mixer is the way to go.
Keith, you don't say if you need the Flaps (SW6) and/or Gear (SW5).
I have a T6EX and have been playing with the v-Tail mix.
If you do require flaps and gear, then, as you've correctly surmised, a separate V-Tail mixer is necessary as you've run out of channels. (A Y-lead to channel 4 (rudder) won't work, as in the inbuilt V-tail configuration it's mixed with elevator.)
With a separate V-Tail mixer the rudder channel 4 can be tapped with a Y lead before the mixer to drive a nose wheel servo.
However, if either flaps or gear isn't required there is a solution. Advise if this is a possibility and I'll explain my findings!
|Thread: sc 46 cuts at half throttle|
Andrew, you mentioned in a previous post (Monday) that you had set the bottom needle one and a half turns out. To me this seems far too open. I could be that you have over-slackened the needle, to the extent that it comes loose.
As Dennis says, attach a piece of tube, close the needle fully and then blow down the tube while opening the the needle very slowly until you can just hear air escaping. I would expect this to be nothing like one turn out.
The top needle will then need re-adjustment for correct tune.
Try again and let us know how you get on.
|Thread: X9D and `LBT` software|
Many thanks for your prompt replies!
I now have a completely eu LBT system, including receiver battery voltage on the front screen, and, I've got a fully functioning GPS, including Google Earth display.
Let's just hope that there won't be any other 'upgrades' needed for quite some time!
Whilst we're discussing Eu and LBT, I've just updated to OpenTX 2.1, updated the XJT module to LBT and one receiver, so far, to LBT. All succesful, eventually!!
One thing that I do note is that, although I've updated the transmitter to OpenTX 2.1, from the previous 2.0.16, when I start in bootloader mode (both trims inwards and switch on) the bootloader is 2.0.16, NOT 2.1 as I would have expected!
Does anyone know if this is correct?
Also, although the receiver battery symbol, and associated bars,appears on the screen the actual voltage is not shown. Is there a way to show it?
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Whilst we're on a Peter Miller theme, and keen to celebrate Peter's achievements, I've just completed Peter's CAP20L.
I was tempted by the Ballerina, and may yet build one, but, the CAP was somehow more appealing.
I increased the wingspan to 56" (112%) as I had an Irvine 46 looking for a home, and have tried to recreate the Viterbo Aero Club scheme.
The covering is HK white, with self-adhesive vinyl trim donated by a club mate. He used to work in a motorcycle shop and acquired the ends of rolls, rather than see them go into the skip. I understand that the colours are Honda Red and Kawasaki Green - not really the Italian flag colours, but good enough!
I didn't make the spats as I suspect they wouldn't last the first taxi to the flight line on our field.
Weight is 5lb 12oz so should have plenty of power for sports flying.
To be maidened when the Northern Powerhouse weather improves.
|Thread: FrSky x9d plus and Spektrum module|
Daz, look here:
They do work, I have one in use on my Taranis.
|Thread: Aileron control rod attachment|
Andrew, I've just had a look at the Boomerang manual, and I also agree it leaves a lot to be desired!
However, to answer your query regarding removing covering to install the undercarriage, it would appear that the model can be made with either, tricycle gear - nose wheel and two main wheels, or taildragger - rear wheel and two main wheels.
For the tricycle setup you would need to use the rearmost position for the main wheels, and for the taildragger option the foremost position for the main wheels. So only remove the covering in the relevant position.
Why they don't explain this is targetted at beginners afterall, I don't know, but it's typical of these kits
|Thread: E sky disc info|
It would appear that what you have is the dummy transmitter, but you need the program to run with it.
From what I can see, the simulator program is FMS, and it look quite old. Have a look here where the program can be downloaded:
There are other, free, simulators, so if you can't sort this one you could try another.
Post again if you need for info.
|Thread: Vortex Vacforms|
David, yes they sre still in business.
On this page **LINK**
there is a hotmail email address which is/was current in an January 2016 - I know 'cause I've just bought a canopy from him.
I knew which item I needed but couldn't get the order system to work, so I emailed him and he responded very quickly. I sent a cheque (how old fashioned is that?) and received the canopy in less than a week.
Good luck, GDB
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