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Member postings for 2W

Here is a list of all the postings 2W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Oracover(profilm), solarfilm & HK Film
27/05/2018 14:17:20

RC Plane flyer. Thanks for your input. It's surprising what can be found in the most unlikely places. At one time I was seriously thinking of buy thin polyester lining material from John Lewis! In the end I chickened out and bought nylon from the LMS.

FlyinBrian. Thanks for the tip. I didn't want to buy 3 or 4 different rolls of film only to find that when using different colours for trimming it would shrink out of shape.

Thread: This forum...
26/05/2018 11:35:40

Nearly 44,000 topics with (say) an average of 20 posts per topic amounts to a lot of work for the Mods. I admire the dedication and the even handedness they demonstrate, particularly when we express our views too strongly in more extreme language than we should.

Full marks, and thank you for maintaining an excellent forum.

William

Thread: Oracover(profilm), solarfilm & HK Film
26/05/2018 11:21:34

In the past I have only used Solarfilm and added decoration with Solartrim. Searching the HK site has revealed no similar trimming material, so I assume that any decoration in done by ironing on different colours of HK film, but doesn't this lead to the trim shrinking back from the desired positions? If so, how do you add trim patterns and colours? Help!

William

Thread: All change at RCM&E
25/05/2018 10:49:10

Best wishes David, and I hope that the "blip" is just that and not going to prevent you doing all the things you enjoy. As one suffering a "blip" I know how it feels to have to have to slow down to the point that everything takes so much longer to do.

Good luck for the future,

William

Thread: Ask..Peter Miller
11/05/2018 10:05:26

Many thanks Peter. It look like I will have to raid the piggy bank again to get another engine!

Best wishes,

William

10/05/2018 21:38:09

Hi Peter,

I am building a CAP21 from your free plan in RCM&E, but need to select an engine: I have the choice of a SC30 FS or SC52 FS if the smaller engine is too small. Either would be mounted inverted to allow the exhaust to blow out below the fus. I would prefer to use the 30FS but is it too small?

Best wishes,

William

Thread: Off to RCHotel
29/04/2018 19:11:25

Just returned today from the RCHotel, where the temperature was 29C, to near freezing London (or so it feels!).

What a fantastic, well run, friendly place, with excellent facilities. The accommodation was fine, food was good, and the staff were relaxed, efficient, friendly and all spoke good english. Spiros greets everyone at the door on arrival and works hard to ensure that everything runs smoothly and efficiently.

The range of people, as with most flying clubs, came from widely differing backgrounds and mixed well much like any flying club and most to them have returned several times. There were people flying fixed wing, hells and 4 chaps flying mini quads with FPV. There are a wide range of models available to fly (I gave up counting them when I passed 50 planes) from trainers to warbirds and gliders so all tastes are catered for. After a frustrating 2 years of trying to learn to fly (my problem of availability for instruction compounded by the weather last year) Dimitri, with the patience of Job, finally got me to fly solo for the first time on my last flight.

Will I go again? Try stopping me!

William

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
09/04/2018 13:57:19

There's an article by Alex Whittaker with some good pictures about Richard Dalgleish's Fury in this month's RCM&E.

Thread: Fuel Proofer ?
08/12/2017 18:39:59

Thank you all for your responses.

I purchased the Wot 4 as a kit and have a SC52FS engine. But when I finally came to build it, I found the foam veneered wing had a crack in the veneer, so I filled the crack as best I could and glassed the wing to give it more strength. I have found film coverings difficult to apply well onto large surfaces, so In a moment of madness and as an experiment, I chose Valspar emulsion (poor choice!) in mid blue and yellow stripes, so that I would be able to see the model clearly in the sky - my flying abilities are not good.

The paint is not very durable, will mark easily, and the plane would look better if it is glossy, not matt. When I researched the use of different fuel proofers on the forum, it seemed to me that Rustins seemed to offer the best choice of effectiveness, so using it will kill two birds with one stone.

08/12/2017 11:10:45

I want to spray Rustins plastic coating on my Wot 4 to fuel proof it. Can anyone advise what and how much I should use to dilute it (cellulose thinners, Rustins thinners), type of spray gun to use (air brush, touch up spray gun) and air pressures to use?

William

Thread: Supermarine 317 Bomber, Mitchell's last design.
11/10/2017 13:33:49

Good luck Colin! You've got 12 months until the Fury build starts..... Sounds as though you had better stop working and concentrate on the things that matter in life!!

William

11/10/2017 10:01:22

As a Mitchell fan, I'm keen to prick you conscience! How's it going, or is it totally and permanently stalled?

William

Thread: My Ultimate Biplane Build
04/10/2017 19:00:31

Lovely work, Gary. I've been watching at a distance, and am scratch building an Albatros D.XI to the Peter Rake design. As happens with scratch building, tolerance errors build up, requiring minor adjustment of the Interplane struts in my case. I am intrigued by by the lack of adjustment available on your model for the wing settings to get them correct and also the adjustment of the Interplane struts. Could you please post a picture showing the details of the Interplane struts fixings to the wings? On the Albatros, the adjustment is only by the strip of brass plate connecting the struts to the wings, and as the wings are already covered, it means removing a patch of covering to get to the fixings in the wings, something I want to avoid if I can.

Keep up the good work,

William

Edited By 2W on 04/10/2017 19:02:12

Edited By 2W on 04/10/2017 19:03:10

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
16/09/2017 09:46:35

Is there a lawyer in the house? If I take the drawings of a true scale model, trace them, make some modifications and send them to a company to be turned into a set of cut parts because I don’t like the details of the original design, does this infringe any copyright? Are we not free to order a set of cut parts from whomsoever we wish?

Starting from scratch to design a 1/6th scale model of a 30ft wing span plane, one is fairly limited in how it could be built strong enough, but light enough to fly well, and the Bryant design is one way it can be done for the Fury. The method he uses of a core fuselage structure is not uncommon, and the skin structure is a logical finishing technique. However, the plan could be updated to use light ply for the rear formers, and a lighter method of construction of the tail feathers could prove beneficial to the C of G.

Personally, I don’t like the method of fixing the top wing to the fuselage, clever though it is, and this too could be changed, but I have no views on how it could be done better.

I would support a mass order from Danny, SLEC, Balsa Cabin or whoever gives the best price for good quality components and materials.

William

Thread: October 2017 issue
12/09/2017 09:57:02

I first started reading RCM&E on an occasional basis many years ago, because I am interested in building models. I became a subscriber 10 years ago and have found that over the years the magazine has changed out of all recognition: the quality of presentation and the number of photos is much better, and the print is larger (yes, I have joined the ranks of the grey-headed with glasses). I agree with C8 and Stevo: I am not interested in ARTFs and I feel too much space is wasted on them, but it is a personal thing and I can quite understand that very few of us today ‘balsa bash’, so something is required to fill the pages. Whittaker’s articles are always worth reading and his photography is excellent. Will we see more of his ‘Funky Fokker’?

But oh dear me! Some of the grammar and lack of the definite and indefinite articles, and ‘s for plurals indicates a lack proof reading which would make the content easier to read. Please don’t let it sink to the level of another, well known, magazine where even pictures are mis-captioned on occasions.

William

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
10/09/2017 18:54:11

Danny, as others have said I greatly appreciate your efforts, but I am sure you have enough on your plate without making dozens of hinges and brass fittings etc.

Having said that, please also include me for the hinges. I am proposing to use a RCV 90sp so the spinners is probably no use to me, and I want to make the brass parts myself. I have sent a PM to Dylan re Cut Parts sets, but if he is not able to supply them, then include me in the "bulk order" for the cut parts.

I intend to make my own cowl from fibreglass by making a plug and using a flower pot and plaster of paris to make a mould. Should be interesting!

Regarding copying the drawings into TurboCAD, this is something I am also doing to teach myself how to use the program. I have tried tracing the drawings, but have found the .pdf file gives a picture which is approximately one degree out of square, and copying the shapes of the curves requires measurement of intersecting parts to get them correct, e.g. for the formers. It seems to me that the design is a little heavy at the tail end, and would benefit from using 1/16 lite ply in place of 3/32 balsa for the formers and tail feathers.

For the RCV engine, the first couple of formers will need to be modified, but that is simple enough.

William

01/08/2017 14:16:36

Hi Danny,

I was about to sign up for the build, but the Traplet problem put me off !

I am game for this challenge, having nearly completed scratch building the Peter Rake designed Albatros D.XI which had a number of issues as far as I am concerned:

  1. Accurate wire bending,
  2. Wing settings and the construction of an accurate jig, and
  3. Wheel construction, for which I used air hose.

I hope the plans can be made available at least – I don’t mind cutting the parts, but without a plan…..

William

Thread: Lozenge WWI covering
01/06/2017 20:03:49

I have been looking for a way to paint Solartex with a WW1 5-colour Lozenge Pattern Camouflage using Vallejo acrylic paints on my (Peter Rake designed) Albatross D XI. This design uses a Clark Y aerofoil, so spray-painting the underside using stencils will be relatively straight forward, but the wing top surfaces present a problem using this method, particularly with the leading edges, which I could hand paint, but this is not my forte!

I am therefore thinking, why not tape the Solartex to a flat surface before covering, and use the stencils to spray paint? I could then iron on the covering, saving the problem of tackling the leading edges. But….

BEB has pointed out elsewhere in an earlier post that it would be wise to apply an undercoat to avoid paint leaking under the stencil edges. Could the leaking problem be avoided by first applying one or two layers of thinned dope to seal the surface of the Solartex before painting, or will this create more of a problem with shrinkage than it will solve? If so what other primer or sealant could be used? Will the solartex still tighten without damage or distortion when ironed onto the wings?

I will be fuel proofing the D XI with Aerocote, because I have converted it to take and SC52FS. Tightening the fabric if it stretches at a later date by using dope will then probably not work.

I would be grateful for any comments or advice would be most welcome.

2W

01/06/2017 19:04:49

I have been looking for a way to paint Solartex with a WW1 5-colour Lozenge Pattern Camouflage using Vallejo acrylic paints on my (Peter Rake designed) Albatross D XI. This design uses a Clark Y aerofoil, so spray-painting the underside using stencils will be relatively straight forward, but the wing top surfaces present a problem using this method, particularly with the leading edges, which I could hand paint, but this is not my forte!

I am therefore thinking, why not tape the Solartex to a flat surface before covering, and use the stencils to spray paint? I could then iron on the covering, saving the problem of tackling the leading edges. But….

BEB has pointed out elsewhere in an earlier post that it would be wise to apply an undercoat to avoid paint leaking under the stencil edges. Could the leaking problem be avoided by first applying one or two layers of thinned dope to seal the surface of the Solartex before painting, or will this create more of a problem with shrinkage than it will solve? If so what other primer or sealant could be used? Will the solartex still tighten without damage or distortion when ironed onto the wings?

I will be fuel proofing the D XI with Aerocote, because I have converted it to take and SC52FS. Tightening the fabric if it stretches at a later date by using dope will then probably not work.

I would be grateful for any comments or advice would be most welcome.

2W

01/06/2017 17:50:33

A search of the internet some years ago found this:

http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/Colors/German/loz2/index.html

There are a few others which cover the same topics of colour, but this is the best I have found.

2W

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