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Member postings for 2W

Here is a list of all the postings 2W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
08/11/2018 18:41:39

Hi Danny,

Much as I would like to try litho plate, I am having enough problems as it is without taking on a new problem altogether. I am beginning to consider changing to a complete paint scheme rather than gilding the lillly and adding extra weight with the litho. It seems to me that adding litho to single curved parts is not too difficult, but something like the cowl is much more demanding.

If you have time to show us how it's done, I would certainly be interested.

William

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
06/11/2018 16:17:07

Hi Danny, thanks for the .pdf of the cockpit, but looking at your latest photos, the outline you have modelled has a curved transition from the back to the door. This appears to be in contradiction with both the plan and the Duxford photos. Am I missing something?

William

Thread: K5682 - Martyn's Fury
31/10/2018 21:03:36

Watching carefully Martin. I'm aiming to start on the wings next week. Keep up the good work!

William

Thread: Altered my clock.
29/10/2018 21:36:28

I must declare an interest: Grandad wrote pamphlets on the subject of Daylight Saving and petitioned parliament to introduce Daylight Saving before WW1; one of his supporters was Winston Churchill. He was an earlier riser, and would go out riding in the early mornings in Petts Wood when people were still in bed in the summer and felt that the mornings were being wasted at the expense of the evenings in summer, when people could enjoy more daylight for other leisure activities. Sadly he died in 1915, and did not live long enough to see Summer Time introduced as a measure to save energy for lighting in the evenings. This was a measure already introduced in Germany to save energy the year before, and was originally proposed many years earlier by Benjamín Franklin.

During the experiment with Double Summer Time in the late '60's, as a student of engineering at Edinburgh University, I well remember watching the sun rise before the end of the 9AM first lecture. Like all good students, we complained bitterly about getting up before the sun! If I remember correctly, the experiment was not repeated because the number of road accidents increased significantly, particularly involving children in the north of the UK. Double Summer time? No thanks!

William

Thread: Reduction Drive Design
28/10/2018 13:51:46

Cymaz, I don't know if this will help, but it may provide a starting point. There are various threads on other forums with power calculators for electric powered planes, but I couldn't get any of them to download or work, probably because of my security settings.

William

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
25/10/2018 14:01:13

Great pictures Martin, well done. I don't think I will live long enough to include all the detail, and if I do, my Fury will be too heavy to fly!

Chris, I'm using superphatic or aliphatic where I can. I avoid CA as much as possible and only use it when speed is necessary.

William

Thread: 2W's Hawker Fury Mk.1
23/10/2018 13:26:31

Danny, this I hope, shows what I mean:

img_1304.jpg

And this shows work in progress:

img_1305.jpg

22/10/2018 22:32:08

Then disaster struck! I had a banana on my hands:

img_1296.jpg

I tried to correct it by replacing the top 3/16" cross braces, but this left the tail end crooked. I had checked during building that all was square, but something went wrong. Drastic action was called for: I built a new rear section of the fuselage:

img_1298.jpg

This was now fitted to the front half after checking that all was square and straight:

img_1299.jpg

img_1301.jpg

Now it's left overnight.....

William

22/10/2018 21:50:24

All was going well with the fuselage, everything nice and square:

img_1287.jpg

img_1292.jpg

img_1295.jpg

I decided to add the side panels to the tail end to set the angle of the upper 1/4" piece, and glued the ply parts having drilled the holes for the rigging wire. This left a 1/16" step on the bottom panel because I cut the part with tangs from 3/16" sheet. Better perhaps to use 1/4" instead of 3/16" sheet and reduce the tangs underneath to fit F11.

Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI
22/10/2018 14:44:23

fury67.jpg

Danny, the bottom 3/16" thick tail piece you have used leaves a gap behind F11 of 1/16". The plan shows this piece as 1/4" thick, but tapering up to towards the rudder. If this piece is made using 1/4" thick balsa sheet and the tangs below the slots are shaved 1/16" to match the end of the struts, this tail piece will match the bottom of F11. I suppose the alternative is to fit some 1/16" sheet and then sand it to match the plan.

William

Thread: 2W's Hawker Fury Mk.1
16/10/2018 14:08:17

Thanks José, just what I needed!

William

15/10/2018 21:37:42

I will be using pull-pull elevators, so I cut a slot each side of the central section for the top cable using a saw to get the angle correct against the plan:

img_1268.jpg

There's a difference of 10mm approx. between the length of the upper cable and the lower cable as it enters the fuselage which will require compensation somewhere to get the lengths of the top and bottom cables the same. I propose to use an idler either in front or behind the cockpit depending on the space available, and drive it with a snake to the servo. This will enable me to run the the cables down each side of the fuselage from the idler to each elevator. Provided the cables are the same length, and the pivot points of the elevators (the hinge) is same relatively on the idler, it should work well - see the article in August RCM&E by Mike Freeman.

A question: do photos of the Fury show any any connection between the elevators, or is the wire connection on the plans only a function of the method of operating the elevators?

Here's a view of tail & elevator with the hinges trial fitted:

img_1284.jpg

The pins of the hinges will be covered, and the hinges glued in when the model is covered.

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
15/10/2018 12:54:03

I was wondering if laminating 1/32 balsa to make the spars would be worthwhile? They would certainly be stronger, but probably difficult to produce.

William

Thread: Margaret's health
14/10/2018 18:31:54

So sorry to hear of your loss Onetenor. It is so difficult to know what one can say in these circumstances, and I do know how you feel. I have just lost two cousins who grew up with me, one with PPA three months ago and the second last Thursday with Myeloma. They were almost sister and brother to me when we were young.

Only the passage of time will dull the pain.

Best wishes,

William

Thread: NEW POLL - Which part of building a new traditional balsa model plane do you enjoy the most?
08/10/2018 17:26:36

All of it except the sanding!

William

Thread: K3736- MkI Fury-Jose L.G.
08/10/2018 13:34:58

Jose, correct me if I'm wrong, but the carbon tube would be very short and limited in length by the hinge positions closest to the fuselage?

William

Thread: 2W's Hawker Fury Mk.1
07/10/2018 22:54:25

I started with what I thought would be the easiest part: the stabiliser. All was going well, until I lifted the competed part from the building board, and found it slightly warped. I have no idea how this could have happened as everything had been weighted down to hold it straight, but I must have got something wrong.

The first thing I did was to check the level of my magnetic building board: this was less than perfect and had dip of approximately 2 mm over 600mm – not good. I purchased a thick MDF board, bonded the metal plate to it, weighted it down, checked it was level, and left it overnight to dry.

I then cut a new 1/16” sheet stabiliser core, marked it up with the ribs etc. and cut the new parts. The ribs were cut from 3/16” x 1/8”, and the 3/16” x ¼” post were added to the core, and were weighted down to the board until dry. The stabiliser was then turned over and the process repeated.

img_1265.jpg

I used the Toolzone hole cutter to cut lightening holes. By calculation, the holes cut amount to the approximately the same area as the original part. In my opinion, the wood between the ribs will help make the stabiliser stiffer and stronger. The holes were surprisingly clean, only requiring minor trimming to complete them

img_1266.jpg

I cut the slots out for Dubro pin hinges because they look better than the flat hinges shown on the plans.

Edited By 2W on 07/10/2018 22:54:57

Edited By 2W on 07/10/2018 22:56:27

07/10/2018 16:07:46

I have joined the team to build this plane because I love biplanes – they are full of character. I prefer to scratch build rather than buying laser cut parts, but looking at the plans, that would be difficult to achieve for the Fury with its complexity.

I recognise that I have so much to learn, as I found out building the Albatros D.XI to the Peter Rake design in FSM some years ago. Details like bending wire accurately particularly for the cabane struts, and setting the wings when very little detail is available on angle of attack, and any relative setting difference between the upper and lower wings, which was further compounded by manufacturing tolerances in scratch building. I also want to learn to use Litho Plate for detailing.

The version I will build will be K5674. I intend to visit Duxford in the near future to take photos of the Historic Aircraft machine since there are a number of details on the plans which do not look correct, e.g. tail feather hinges and bracing details.

I have a Laser 1.20 which I want to use, but may be a little too large, in which case I will have to raid the piggy bank for an alternative.

I want to use closed loop control on the elevators to dispense with the joiner between the elevators and to save weight in the tail. Looking at Mike Freeman’s article on the subject on the August issue of RCM&E it seems the best way to do this would be to use an idler bar located behind the cockpit. If space allows, the idler could be located in front of the cockpit, in which case the cables could be routed down the sides of the fuselage to avoid cockpit, thereby allowing space to detail it. If closed loop control is used, it will be necessary to allow some extra 10mm in the lower cable to account for its shorter length compared to the upper cable.

This will not be a quick build. I seem to spend too much time correcting my errors and planning how repair the damage and how to do the next part, but here goes: it’s all part of the learning experience, and as the Greeks said “If at first you don’t succeed then Troy, Troy again!”

Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
04/10/2018 15:38:49

Stuart, please see my PM in your in box.

Cheers, William

02/10/2018 18:23:55

Hi Danny, I'm following with interest.

Whilst building the fin and rudder and waiting for the glue to dry, I started on the fuselage sides, but there's a slight problem. To get the two front panels to fit the outline I found that there is a small gap which tapers from the 'V' to F!. on checking the positions of F3 and F4 I realised that a shim is required between the two parts to get them to fit correctly.

Here's a picture to show what I mean with my shim fitted:

img_1263.jpgHope this helps.

William

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 02/10/2018 19:03:24

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Which part of building a new traditional balsa aeroplane do you enjoy the most?
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