Here is a list of all the postings Chris Freeman 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brian Taylor Spitfire Mk 1 C of G|
Pleasure Tim, on the YT models Spitfire they add a packer of ply onder the rear mount to get more forward rake. I have found that all my Spitfires that I have built and flown have had very few nose overs on take off as the thrust of the motor and wind over the elevators prevent it. The challange is to hold enough up to keep the tail down but not to take off without enough airspeed. Landings are the hard one, I try to land in a tail low attitude but not 3 point. I also tend to use the scale curved approuch as it is easier to control the speed and height. A long approach can be very tiring with a warbird as the elevator is very sensitive. Once down you need to hold all the up you can but with a grass runway you should not damage the plane if it does nose over. I am sure that once you are used to the flying you will see that the nose overs will be few and far between. You can see from the above picture that even the fullsize was not great at taxing around.
Do Not move the CG back, a Spitfire has very sensitive elevators due to the small taiplane size which was also evident on the full size. A Spitfire will need a lot of lead to get the CG correct so do not worry about that. You can try to rake the unercarraige forward a bit more to improve the ground handling. Take time to set up your control movements correctly and ensure that you do not have too much elevator movement. I set up the dual rates so I can reduce the movement once in the air and even land on reduced rates. If you have retracts you will find the Spitfire will drop the nose a little when the retracts are lowered and also more when flaps are used. Due to the nose over issues and nose down pitch with retracts, I have also found that expo can be an issue as about 10% is all that is needed as it will work against you when trying to get the nose up in certain situations. My Spitfires needed very little elevator movement and once set up correctly are very smooth flying aircraft.
Another trait of the Spitfire is that when you do a loop you need to increase the up at the top of a loop and not reduce it like most other aircraft, as a Spitfire will try fly out inverted and you will need to pull it around. Many Spitfire models have been lost due to a spin fron the top of a loop.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
|Thread: Hello all. Cambria Piper Tri-Pacer|
The TriPacer is a great aircraft but not that large, I have scratch built 2 from the kit that I have, The first one had a Super Tigre 90 that had plenty of power enen in the hot and High conditions in Johannesburg. The new one that I am building will have an old Enya 120 that just fits in the cowl. My kit cowl has shrunk over the years so before you start check the cowl fit to the firewall as I had to reduce the firewall to get it to fit.
|Thread: A big pile of shavings later!|
Great build so far, I love a Mustang and have had a few over the years as they sure do fly well. I alsways drill all the holes in the lower cowl just like the real one as it is a good way to get air out and it is scale. This is my Electric one scratch built from Top Flite plans
|Thread: Have you passed the model flying/building bug onto anyone else?|
Been building models most of my 52 years, My son is very active and grew up in our workshop. I have taught many people and my friends are mostly rc nuts, including my doctor. I ran an aviation awarness campaign for South African Airways for a number of years and built Delta Darts/ BMFA Darts with kids all around South Africa, about 20 000 of them.
|Thread: Power Setup for Top Flite DC3|
Great flying aircraft this, mine was 4.5 kg and I had a total of 700 watts power which flew it better than expected as I stay in Johannesburg and can have are density issues with the heat and altitude. Trevor helped me with his power suggestions and can confirm his suggestions are good. The flaps are essential on this aircraft.
|Thread: YT Spitfire|
I shape the balsa in a battery powered drill used as a lathe, the balsa has a dowel in the center that the drill chuck can grip. Once shaped the cannon is cut with the front portion having a nylon bolt inserted in the place of the dowel. The rear portion is tapped to take the nylon bolt and is then shaped to be glued onto the wing without cutting the leading edge. I hope the picture makes sense, the cannon is not fitted yet, just the part glued on the wing.
|Thread: Retro aircraft|
A flying buddy of mine challanged me to build an airframe for a diesel motor as he said I need experience the pleasures of diesel as my electrics are not for real men! As I have been building and flying models for over 45 years and never flown a diesel motor I thought it was a good idea. My Buddy gave me a Webra 2.5cc so a airframe had to be found. My son had recently built a Super 60 with a ED Hunter so I knew what to expect, lots of oil! My son posted a picture of a Super Murgatroid on the South African model forum and soon a link was posted to RC groups that included a basic plan which was soon printed and enlarged to the size wanted 1.6 m. A kit was made as I was going to visit my wifes mother for a few days and they love shopping so I build on the coffee table in her lounge! The airframe was built in the 4 days we were there and completed when we returned home. The fuselage is covered in silk and has a 2 k clear coat. Wings are plastic, the green is 30 year old Monokote. Weight is 1kg ready to fly and was maidened on Saturday after a little fiddling with the motor.
|Thread: Christmas Caption Competition!|
It was not my fault, it was him!
|Thread: Autumn is here!!.....Who's been flying??|
I am South African and we had the opposite problem this weekend as the temperatures were around 34 degrees. Our Altitude in Johannesburg is 5000 feet above sea level so with the heat density it was around 8000 feet so not the weather for heavy wing loadings.
|Thread: Hole cutting in Liteply|
I still use an old original dremel jigsaw, I hand cut most of the parts for my Scratch built projects. Busy with a 1/4 Tripacer that I cut parts for, I did not want to build the kit that I have as I thought it could be lighter
|Thread: LIPO charging bags - are they any use ?|
The problem with a lipo is that it is very hard to extinguish once it starts burning as if not in a lipo bag or contained it spits flames in all dirrections. We lost 2 dogs in the fire and just made it out alive, this was during the day and we still lost everything due to the fire spreading so fast. No wallets, cell phones or ID's were saved. Over 140 built aircraft ready to fly and around 50 kits and 50 motors all lost. Insurance rebuilt the house but I never insured my hobby stuff, I had cover on the rest of the house contents and cars.
The nice thing now is that the house maintenance is done so I can spend more time building new aircraft and had space for them! New collection is already around 35 airframes.
I lost my house to a lipo fire nearly 3 years ago when a 2 cell 2200 mih receiver pack let go in my sons brand new 100 cc aircraft that he had just been sponsored. Do not under estimate the potential fire risk of a lipo! The biggist advantage of LIPO bag is the fact that it is not being charged in the airframe which is what my son was doing at the time. I fly plenty of electric aircraft of all sizes even after the fire but make sure that I am around when charging, now that the charger and lipo are good and double check charge settings whilst charging and also check the monitor the cells whilst on charge. I wrote an article on the experiences for another magazine but they have not printed it in 2 years!
|Thread: Spitfire build|
The Mick Reeves Spitfire done as a clipped wing would be about that size and it is a great flying aircraft that can carry the extra weight of a glass and paint finish. Smaller Spitfires can be a little heavy once detail and paint is added making them a challange to fly. Clipped wings also has the added benifit of improving the percentage of stab to wing area. Mine is electric and flies very well even in the thinner air of Johannesburg in South Africa.
|Thread: Whirlwind No3|
David, no problem. The house fire was 09/11/2013 and life continues. I have written an article that will be in the other publication as I hope that some people might be able to learn something from the experience. I have been building and flying RC for over 44 years and had over 120 aircraft in the house, some were 30 years old.
I had communicated with Barry originally when I built my Whirlwind as I am from South Africa so you do not have that many people building this type of aircraft and when you read the blogs you can often get the wrong information. Barry sure knows his Whirlwinds and mine was a pleasure to fly. The plan that I had survived as it was in a shed so I am tempted to enlarge it and build another.
Nice building, love the shape.
Lipo storage is only one aspect, the fire started when a 2 cell 2200 receiver pack exploded in my son's new giant scale aerobatic aircraft and he was not in the room when it happened. A fire speads much faster than you can imagine. we lost everything in the fire, including 2 dogs. My advice is to be more cautious with all items that could caus a fire and also make sure you have good insurance.
I did not change the size of the tailplane and only fully sheeted the structure. A friend of mine also built one from the same plan but his was glassed and quite a bit heavier than mine but it still flew well. He then got plans from the USA for a lage one that I think is about 120" wingspan. My Whirlwind was great to fly and had quite a few flights on it but was lost when my house burnt down due to a lipo fire.
I will watch this thread as I enjoy the Whirlwind as well. Not sure if you recall but I built the Peter Wilson one a few years ago for Electric. It was a great flying aircraft, might still enlarge the plans and build one around 90 inches.
|Thread: Squeeky bum time ..test flight time|
Love the colours of your Spitfire, really nicely done. Spitfires are not bad flying aircraft and once you get past their reputation, you love them. I have just recently test flown my 1/6 scale Spitfire that still has to be painted as I was worried that my wings were too thin on the leading edge at the tips and was also concerned as it is electric and needed to see what the power was like. Flew very well and lands nice and slowly with flaps. I cut my own foam wings and made my own fiberglass fuselage for this project.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!