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Member postings for robert chamberlain

Here is a list of all the postings robert chamberlain has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Prop selection
24/05/2018 02:54:08

Just for comparison purposes for the load the prop puts on the engine/motor, I have sometimes used,----P X D X D X D to give me a raw number. Truthfully, I have never correlated this to anything like amps or RPM. Just a thought to put out there. Maybe I drink too much coffee.------Bob C

PS--I usually just follow the manufacture's advice

Thread: Electric motor for WOT4
05/05/2018 06:42:15

have not worked it out yet

Thread: Instruction Manuals How Useful?
08/04/2018 03:26:25

I think sometimes it is a matter of a solution looking for a problem. Why the engine kill when years ago we just pulled the throttle trim back? On my transmitter, in the airplane mode, flaps are called " flaps".---In the glider mode, flaps are called " CAMB" ie camber. Took me awhile to figure that out. I admit this is my first computer trans. Should get better as time goes by.-------------Bob C

Thread: Returning to hobby
10/02/2018 03:23:50

I am getting serious about getting going back into flying again, but have a couple of quick questions.

1. I have several Futaba servos, never used, that are over 20 years old. I suppose they have nylon gears. Does this material degrade over time and become brittle?

2. I have several feet of very flexible, multi strand 13 gauge wire, but am not sure how many amps it is good for. I'll check around the internet, but so far only found references to A/C current.

3. I have many Sermos/Anderson power pole connectors but can not find anything in my notes as to their amp rating. As I recall, one could buy them in different ratings.

Any ideas?------Thanks in advance----Bob

Thread: Changing connectors on my Lipo batteries
13/01/2018 06:32:05

I was under the impression that Sermos and Anderson Powerpole were the same. True? I was told some years ago that the Sermos had one or two different Amp rating available. Hobby shop is no help. I am going to guess that either is good for 30 Amps which is all I need right now. Any thoughts? Bob C

Thread: Nickel based batteries
13/01/2018 06:16:42

Hello, just had an Enlope 5 cell pack made for me. I was told it was 1900 MAH using AA cells . It is nicely done with shrink wrap and glue but I can not peal it apart to see the charging rate. The builder didn't have any idea. Before I cut into the wrap can anyone tell me if they are any different from other NiMH units? 10% or 1C?

I have some similar NiMH cells sold as "fast charge" but when I looked, it said 10% overnight.

I read Tim's piece above and found it interesting, but still have questions. -------------Bob C

Thread: Electric motor for WOT4
02/01/2018 17:13:22

Thanks Robin for this information. It is exactly what I needed. Great picture too! Happy New Year

01/01/2018 19:58:00

Thanks Percy and John. I do have a watt/amp meter and will see how the GL pulls . Thanks,---Bob

01/01/2018 06:43:50

Hello all and Happy New year. Trying to put an electric motor on a Gentle Lady but am confused on the rating as published. The AXI says 25A30s. Does this really mean I can only pull 25 amps for 30 seconds? This probably would be fine to launch the GL, but I could not use it to fly an airplane. No guidance on lower amps. Could I run it at 12 amps for how much longer ? I'll do some bench testing to see how hot it gets and how long it takes to cool off. Lower throttle setting and smaller prop to lower amp/watt draw, of course. What are people putting on gentle ladies for launching? Thanks, Bob C

Thread: Nickel based batteries
05/12/2017 06:31:09

hello all,---My charger is set to the "default" setting which looks like around 7mv for the cut off on NIMH batts. When the charger says "fully charged" , I can test the batt and it is indeed not fully charged. I noticed that I can hit the button again and it will continue charging again for a short time. I assume the mv is a little low if this can be done. I have the safety features all set ,--time, capacity, temp etc . Any suggestions on a safe mv to set the charger on? Thanks for any advice,---Bob C in Kansas, USA

Thread: Eneloop battery
03/10/2017 02:47:14

Hello all,--my peak detection charger has a setting of "Default' to set the peak shut off point, I suppose. It also offers the ability to set the M/V of my choice. What would be a good number, or just leave it alone. "Let sleeping dogs lie' Bob C

Thread: Charging low dischrge NiMh batterries.
03/10/2017 02:19:49

Hi Nigel, My biggest worry is the temp. I peak charged a 1900 Rec pack (NiMh) at 800 Mah and it got quite warm. I would call it HOT really. I'll try it again and use a contact loop around it as well as a non contact type (infared)? We'll see just what we are dealing with as far as temp goes and will report back. You say the Eneloop web site made no mention of temp? I'll noodle around the Web and see what's up,------later Bob C

01/10/2017 05:28:15

All good info above.--much needed. To sum it all up, ---1/2 C is going to set off peak detection and low charge (100-200) Ma is better at balancing for my 1900 MA Enlope trans batt. I called Hitec and they said wallwart was just a trickle charger which I measured at 90 Ma. The issue is---- I do not know when to take the trans off the wallwart as I do not know the state of charge left in the trans batt after the last flight. It sure gets more that warm at 90Ma if left on for a few hours..Hitrc suggested removing batt from trans and connecting it to peak charger. Ever try to get that little bugger disconnected? You can not peak charge through regular port because of the diode. I thought I would just carefully cut batt wire and splice in a male/female plug making it easy to remove batt and not play around with that little plug in trans. Yes ,another failure point, but would make it very easy to peak charge .What makes it confusing is that there is at first a red light ,then a green light on the wall wart.

Another setting on my peak charger is "M/V cut off. I have it set to 'default', but is there a better setting? Thanks everyone for your time. Bob C

Thread: Nickel based batteries
29/09/2017 06:11:24

Hello all,---I recently tried to charge up my Hitec trans with the included wallwart unit. The trans had been sitting for about 3 months and I thought I would give the 7.2 nickel metal batt a charge. Usually this doesn't take all that long but this time I left it connected for about 3 hours. The little red light stayed on and it never went to green as usual so I figured all was well. Boy, was that batt HOT ! I could touch it ,but it was more than just a little warm. So-----either the wallwart went crazy or the batt has a problem. Could it be that one cell went dead and the charger kept trying to bring the voltage up? It did read 8.2 on the trans screen, however. Maybe the other 5 cells now are over charged?

I measured the output of the wallwart on another batt and it showed 80 MAH. I was thinking of cutting open(carefully ) the bat to see if a cell was dead. Are these wallwart chargers just trickle chargers? I would think not if they had both a red and a green light.

Maybe I'll just make up a cable and charge it from my charger( assuming the wallwart goes directly to the battery and not through some circuits inside.----Any thoughts would be appreciated.!

Oh, while I am here, what is a good setting for the MV /cell cut off for the peak detection charge? I owe you

Bob C

Thread: Help required to leccy convert
12/09/2017 03:51:54

Yep, there it is on their web page.----depending where you read it. either 20/30/ 60 sec run time! No wonder it got hot in 3 min! ----Bob

12/09/2017 03:21:52

Simon, thanks for the good info. I can't find that 60 sec note anywhere on the paper that came with the motor. Is that true for all 2814/20 motors and if so, what good are they except to quick glider launches?! According to the Hobby Express catalog it is good for 3 and 4 Lipos. Sorry I spent $100 on this. At what temp do magnets not become magnets anymore? Thanks again--Regards, Bob C

Thread: First electric glider suggestion
12/09/2017 01:34:32

Hi all, I am converting an old GentleLady to a motor/Lipo launch. I know that as the battery depletes the prop stops but there will/should be enough power to run the receiver and servos for a period of time. If this were a powered airplane, the best idea would be to land . But ,If there was a lot of thermal activity going on I just do not want to land right now. SO,---the way I figure it is to cut the small red wire which usually goes to the receiver, tape it over, and plug in a separate battery pack into the receiver of a size I know will be OK for several hours or until my neck gives out. Does this sound about right? ----------Another silly question if I may.( I have not flown in years) if I plug the servo in the wrong way will anything bad happen or will it just not work?-------Regards, Bob C

Thread: Help required to leccy convert
11/09/2017 22:22:02

Hi Piers, I tested the set up with one of those Amp/Volt/Watt meters units. Recommended prop is an 11/5 although I have an11/6 on it. I bought it through Hobby Lobby here in the U.S. Note: now called Hobby Express . The next step is the ESC . Maybe motor timing? Motor is rated for 3 or 4 Lipos and 25 Amps

11/09/2017 21:34:39

John, I understand what you are saying and thanks for input. Timing is the next to take a look at if only to understand how it is done. Another hobby shop just went out of business,--sign of the times

11/09/2017 21:26:17

Hi Frank, you are right on about air flow but in this case the motor is sitting completely exposed bolted to the firewall. I think there is something else going on here.

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