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Silver Wolf's Chipper-too

A first scale build (Dennis Bryant)

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Silver Wolf26/12/2014 13:17:40
167 forum posts
151 photos

Hi John,

Thanks for the information and apologies for not replying sooner. I have also done a bit of research and according to the pilots manual for the chipmunk the control movements are as follows.

Aileron up 21˚ down 16˚

Flaps 15˚ and 30˚

Elevator up 38˚ down 15˚

Rudder 31˚ each way

After transferring the angle for the elevator to the plan 38˚ seems to be quite a lot?

A rough check for the ailerons give 20mm of up movement for 21˚.

elevator movement.jpg

It would seem that if 38˚ was used that would give nearly 50mm of movement

It will be interesting to see what we actually end up with, at the moment I would be thinking of those airsail movements. I daresay we will have a few maiden flights from others before i have to make any decisions.

Anyway not any chance of doing any building today, off for another dinner!!


Silver Wolf13/01/2015 12:03:24
167 forum posts
151 photos

Fin and rudder now complete with shroud.

fin rudder.jpg

Using the technique that Danny showed was very effective

rudder shroud.jpg

Generally quite happy with overall appearance, however the transition from top of fin to rudder seems to be about 1mm. Not sure if this is and the general fit of the rudder/shroud or correct. Not sure if any further work will be done on them as the intention is for a stand off scale, however lesson learnt.

fin rudder transition 2.jpg

rudder transition.jpg

Just about to fit shroud to tail plane but will await any feedback so that the evevator/tailplane transition is correct.

In the mean time will start to have a look at the wing.

john stones 113/01/2015 18:03:03
10604 forum posts
1480 photos

It looks o.k to me SW, it's a compromise getting a nice fit/look and enough travel on the control surface yes


Andy Muckley13/01/2015 18:11:55
365 forum posts
13 photos

Hi SW looks good to me too, 1mm is ok as you will half that when you cover/glass the fin and rudder

Andrew Price 213/01/2015 18:22:07
815 forum posts

Signing in. smile p

Silver Wolf22/02/2015 15:43:05
167 forum posts
151 photos

It's been a while since last had a chance to do some building for various reasons.

Was getting a little frustrated with lack of progress, it seemed to take an age to get fin and rudder complete. I felt the same way about the tail plane and elevator.

tailplane weight.jpg

So have decided to move onto the wing to try and move the project along.

Filled the wing rear spar with Roket powder, this seems to have worked quite well and do not think it will need any additional beefing up!

wing rear spar filler.jpg

At present just sorting through a few tasks in readiness for the wing build and have noticed that wood I intend to use for the undercarriage mounting blocks is spruce rather than beech. Does anyone have any misgivings with using spruce for this task?


john stones 122/02/2015 15:58:23
10604 forum posts
1480 photos

Spruce is maybe a little heavier than Beech, any landing bad enough to break either will destoy the wing anyway S.W. I used spruce myself was all I had


Silver Wolf22/02/2015 20:23:19
167 forum posts
151 photos

Quite happy to go with the spruce for the undercarriage, but not to sure about the main spar brace is a little warped, not to sure if this straighten out once the ribs and spars are in place?

spar brace.jpg

Silver Wolf06/03/2015 20:55:46
167 forum posts
151 photos

Checked the dihedral brace and a little sanding has given a reasonable starting point.


Holes for control rods, doublers and building tabs added to all rib.


Rear spar glued and filled


Glued the lower spar to the first dihedral brace, this is a starting point.

Used straight edge as a guide to pin spar, I use dress making pins and a panel pin hammer for securing the main spar


I think that the warp in the dihedral brace will be removed once the other spar and ribs are in place!


Hope to get a start on the wing over the weekend.

Danny Fenton06/03/2015 23:17:24
9107 forum posts
3945 photos

Good to see you cracking on SW, that's quite a warp in that dihedral brace! Hopefully it will sort itself out with some additional structure around it



Nev06/03/2015 23:27:50
592 forum posts
221 photos

Hi SW, good logical start. My braces looked like that to but straightend out nicely when glued in place. The first panel goes together quite quickly once you have the spars pinned down, it's the second half where you start scratching your head because you don't have the printed plan to work off but I'm sure it won't be a problem.


Colin Leighfield06/03/2015 23:54:20
5952 forum posts
2492 photos

I mentioned a while ago that I wetted my plan with meths and it went transparent, so I was able to build on either side of it. Weeks later the print is still visible on both sides, so I can recommend it as a working solution for the wing build.

Silver Wolf07/03/2015 10:44:29
167 forum posts
151 photos

Gents, thanks for the replies it is encouraging that the warp should build out. I think that this may be part of the reason that I have not been in a hurry to start the wing.

Although I have traced the wing for the LH panel I may just try the meths, as it should be more accurate.

A few words of encouragement do really help get things moving.

Well of up to the loft, will start with a dry run and do any final fettling, just need to decide on what to listen too.

john stones 107/03/2015 22:00:48
10604 forum posts
1480 photos

My brace was bent before gluing as well, all those ribs will sort it


Silver Wolf18/03/2015 21:12:39
167 forum posts
151 photos

The basic for the RH wing panel now complete.

Managed to use the large permagrit bar, did wonder if I would ever find a use for it.


Was a little concerned with the angle as I could only get 52mm measured under rib 18. However checked the

length of spar and double checked using simple trig and at 52mm this gives me 3.925 degrees.


There is a very small amount of warp starting from rib 15/16, not overly concerned as this is producing a very small amount of washout. It may well disappear once the panel is re-pinned to board for sheeting.


Needed to alter quite a few of the ribs to allow the top spar to line up with lower spar. Without this been done the panel would be warped.


Guess who didn't look for B1.

Will revisit RH panel to sheet top and then profile under side once centre and LH panel built. I intend to add the centre section next then will build LH panel onto the centre. I will leave the shroud etc off until the hinges for flaps and ailerons are done.

Definitely prefer to build three sections then assemble, it allows much more freedom to ensure everything is correct.

With all the additional work to get spar and ribs to fit, not to mention adjusting the dihedral brace it seem to take an age to get this far with the wing. However if the centre and other panel turn out like the LH I will be pleased and should have a reasonable base to finish the wing.

john stones 118/03/2015 22:05:31
10604 forum posts
1480 photos

Looking good S.W, I wish I had left the shroud till aileron/flap was done would have made the fitting/shaping easier yes


Silver Wolf05/04/2015 17:14:31
167 forum posts
151 photos

Both wing panels built but only top surface sheeted

centre basic.jpg

wing top sheet.jpg

I have checked the measurements for LE, main spar and TE. The main spar is ok but the LH LE is 1.5 lower than the RH and the TE is 2mm higher than the RH. I think that the problem is with the RH panel, I may attempt to correct this when I sheet the underside. If this does not happen then I think that a little bit of trim applied to the ailerons should sort it out.

scribe block_2.jpg

Will start to take a look at the under carriage next.


Danny Fenton05/04/2015 18:05:21
9107 forum posts
3945 photos
I made a slight error with my undercarriage, before sealing access add the oleos to check alignment....
Silver Wolf07/04/2015 01:54:50
167 forum posts
151 photos

Still awaiting oleos from HK first set never arrived! I intend to build under carriage as per plan then trim to suit oleos if they arrive. If they don't turn up then will look for an alternative or may just go with standard piano wire legs.

just out of interest what have people used for the retention straps?

Colin Leighfield07/04/2015 06:11:50
5952 forum posts
2492 photos

image.jpgThis is it Silver Wolf. I've used brass sheet for the straps, tin-plate will do as well. (Sorry for the foot in the picture, I was still in pyjamas and dressing gown)! I've used shortened wire legs and ground a flat as in photo one. The oleos are drilled and tapped to take grub screws, as in photo two. I think Danny's done this as well. One screw would be enough, but I've used two.image.jpg

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