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Hanger 9 Inverza 62

More a piece together rather than build!

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Adrian Smith 122/01/2015 16:55:04
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

The main wings are attached to the fuz using tabs through the fuselage (along with a metal spar as is customary). The tabs are bolted into the wing and thead locked and then bolted to plates inside the fuz. Never seen it done this way and it looks quick sturdy. Beats turning nylon wing bolts on cold days!

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Adrian Smith 122/01/2015 16:58:46
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Next I test fitted the servo pushrods to the horns on the ailerons. Also temporarily fitted a servo. It seems odd to me the angle of the pushrod, but as can be seen it's what the manual shows. May be somebody can tell me if there is any advantage in that,p1020141.jpg as I always thought servo arms and pushrods should be at 90degs at neutral?.

Adrian Smith 123/01/2015 14:38:43
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2151 forum posts
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Anybody got any thoughts on the angle of the pushrod on the aileron servo arm? It seems counterproductive despite it being shown that way in the manual.

john stones 123/01/2015 15:18:40
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10343 forum posts
1475 photos

With a servo arm that length it's gonna be at an odd angle at some point during it's travel Adrian, other than side mounting the servo to get a straight push/pull you have what you havewink you can always tune the movements via the tx if the geometry gives odd amounts of travel

John

Adrian Smith 123/01/2015 15:36:18
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Thanks John. Thought I'd better ask as the installation appears to break all the "rules" that I have been brought up with. Hoping to get the servos in this weekend along with the pull-pull systems so more snaps later.

Adrian Smith 126/01/2015 17:28:26
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

I have screwed in the aileron servos and loose fitted the servo arms and pushrods to the horns. I am not a great lover of centring the servos at this stage and I leave the more precise adjustment when I am setting up the final testing with all the gear installed.

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Adrian Smith 126/01/2015 17:29:54
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Next as I am using a pull-pull method for the elevator with one HD servo I have had to epoxy a couple of plates in the rear of the fuz so I can make some stable exit points for the elevator wires. In this case the elevator wires are below the rudder pull-pull wires. Next thing to think about is where to locate the elevator servo in the fuz. I will probably use a ply plate across the fuz rather than hardwood bearers although I have not made up my mind yet. Additionally, the rudder servo mounting plate in the fuz will need altering because the cutout is the size of a standard servo whereas my Hitec HS 755 1/4 scale servos are somewhat bigger.

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Adrian Smith 103/02/2015 17:03:28
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

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I can get moving again now. I took delivery today of the Hatori manifold and canister and I must say it's a thing of beauty. I know it costalotta, but it is made specifically for the OS 55GT/60GT and also others. It's pretty well the quietest set up around. The thing I like about it is there is a ball joint to muffler and header which allows for side thrust, down thrust with up to 20mm movement. There is an extension pipe allowing flexibility with canister location. Can be cut to size too. I am going test fit it tomorrow and also try and finished off the elevator and rudder servos with pull/pull cables. More photos later this week when I have done that.

john stones 103/02/2015 17:15:43
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10343 forum posts
1475 photos

Have used them on helis and pattern ships, very well made and quiet yes

John

Adrian Smith 104/02/2015 19:29:42
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Test fitting the Hatori manifold confirmed my hopes that it would line up correctly with the canister as can been seen from the photo. I will be using the the supplied extension pipe to allow the canister to be set back a little way into the fuz. However, this is when it all got a bit tricky. The fuz has inbuilt ply canister supports along much of its length and is ideally suited to a tuned pipe. Because the Hatori canister has an angled outlet pipe it was impossible to insert the canister no matter how much I twisted it in a confined space! I basically had to cut out notches of wood in the supports to allow the canister to slide in. These will be repaired in the final build. The angled outlet pipe slipped nicely through the fuz bottom though a ply template and will look nice and tidy. Whilst the exhaust set up means I won't have cut the cowl by anything like I thought I would, I will still have to open a hole in the port side of the cowl to accommodate the bend in the manifold that shows just outside of the fuz side profile. But hey!! I can cope with that. Lastly, I intend to use the supplied Hatori metal support brackets, but I need to to think how to gain access to do that. Furthermore, they will have to be suspended below the servo/Rx trays because the gap is too large. My first thought is to temporarily remove the throttle servo/RX trays and introduce a false floor with the brackets already attached and then replace the original throttle servo/RX support trays. Gonna have to think about that one.

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Adrian Smith 104/02/2015 19:36:36
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Because of the fiddling with the exhaust and deliberation required I decided to get on with the elevator and rudder servos. The elevator servo sits on two hardwood bearers that have been reinforced and line up nicely. The rudder servo also partly sits on bearers rather than completely on the ply plate because it would be impossible to enlarge the standard servo slot that is in the ply plate without making a mess. This arrangement has also been reinforced as can be seen. Hope to do the control wires this weekend if I can't out flying.

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Adrian Smith 106/02/2015 17:23:54
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

I decided to bite the bullet and fit & secure the exhaust system before I do anything else. Header, extension and couplers all line up well.

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Next job was to fit the rear bracket. I cut out a piece of the radio gear tray for access and fitted the metal canister bracket prior to measuring for height from the false floor.

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Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 06/02/2015 17:31:19

Adrian Smith 106/02/2015 17:29:39
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Next I built the false floor using ply and hardwood blocks attached to the canister suspension arms. I made a couple of hardwood bearers to hold the false floor which is fixed using screws.

p1020164.jpgNext I replaced the radio gear tray cutout and supported it underneath with pieces of hard balsa and glued with cyno.p1020166.jpgThat's it on that part. I have got to do the front bracket now which I am not looking forward to as it will be more fiddly, but Hey Ho got to be done!!

Adrian Smith 113/02/2015 19:20:47
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Got a bit waylaid this week as I managed to get out flying 3 days this week which is very unusual. Anyway made the false floor for the front support on the Hatori canister and replaced the servo/and tank tray back in situ.

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Adrian Smith 113/02/2015 19:22:34
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

As can be seen from the underside the installation lines up nicely despite the 4deg side thrust thanks to the ingenious Hatori swivel joints on the teflon joiners.

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Adrian Smith 113/02/2015 19:26:39
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

p1020172.jpgNext I decided to string the elevators and rudder with my pull/pull systems, not a job a like but has to be done. I used Secraft tensioners on the elevator with the supplied fittings for the rudder. This has all been done loose fitted ready for when i power up all the servos in the final setup.

p1020171.jpgnext job will be to sort out the throttle and choke pushrods which I should try to do after the weekend.

john stones 113/02/2015 22:20:23
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10343 forum posts
1475 photos

Never seen those tensioners before they look good

John

Adrian Smith 114/02/2015 09:19:39
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Yes John they are. Belt and braces as the wire is held with a brass tube within the casing and the use of two grub screws to compress the tube. Also you have a couple of ways to adjust them in or out. So no need to mess around in the fuz. They are about £9 a pair in various colours like red, black and silver. Various outlets do the King Lynn models for one and I think RC World do them too.

Adrian Smith 117/02/2015 16:46:22
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

I thought I would do a bit more work on the front end today as I am hoping the fly tomorrow early before the wind is due to pick up. Now that the canister is all lined up I thought I would tighten up the mounting bolts and blue thread lock them. I added more button washers with one nylock and one airtight nut per bolt inside. Hopefully that should hold. Gawd what a pain that was! I needed a socket set that went round corners to do it half a turn at a time as the internal frame got in the way. As an observation other kits of this size leave the firebox/wall half built to allow all the fitting to be done before finishing off the build. Not this one afraid. i needed small hands and about 2-3 hours of patience!

p1020180.jpgI took the precaution of fitting the throttle and choke pushrods to the engine along with the fuel pipe and just fed them through the firewall before bolting it all up. At least now I can clip the push rods to size when I put the servos in.

Adrian Smith 117/02/2015 16:50:11
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2151 forum posts
835 photos

Next I fitted the ignition unit to the starboard side to help balance things up a bit at the front. The power wire which will be attached eventually to a Rexcl kill switch was fed through a hole drilled in the firewall and cushioned using a hot glue gun.

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