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Peterf's 1/4 scale Falcon Models Tiger Moth

Build log for my quarter scale Tiger Moth

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PeterF23/05/2017 18:00:53
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321 forum posts
546 photos

Manish,

Yes, I forgot to mention the hand grips, these were milled out from solid aluminium block. Machined a recess around the backside to create the mounting flange, then put it into the mill the other way around and cut out the hand slot with a ball end mill. Here is a close up photo. I did not take any before they were glued in.

The rods on the controls are just styrene.

dsc05132.jpg

Manish Chandrayan23/05/2017 19:24:01
408 forum posts
56 photos
Thanks Peter, I will beat out some from litho sheet. I did make some but they appear too small so will make larger ones
Manish Chandrayan25/05/2017 14:21:32
408 forum posts
56 photos

Made this today. Spring will be bolted to top and the bottom piece will be soldered on and then the assembly painted. 

What is the the considered opinion about best method to get the scale that needs to be affixed to the bottom of the ASI?

img_20170525_112414_01.jpg

img_20170525_112402_01.jpg

Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 25/05/2017 14:23:13

cymaz25/05/2017 19:31:09
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7589 forum posts
981 photos

The figures were just too small to put up n...so I ignored them. No one has noticed

gipsy moth detailing 001.jpg

PeterF25/05/2017 21:21:03
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321 forum posts
546 photos

Manish,

I hope you have calibrated the spring so that it is accurate.

For this sort of thing I have laser printed onto adhesive vinyl previously. I have bought the sheets of printable self adhesive vinyl sheets from ebay.

Manish Chandrayan26/05/2017 08:53:46
408 forum posts
56 photos

Oh dear Peter, now that you mention it, I will have to really calibrate the spring and the scale cheeky

Manish Chandrayan19/06/2017 11:55:44
408 forum posts
56 photos

Peter

I managed to hook up my ailerons closed loop and run into a problem. While I am getting the desired throw on either side, the aileron do not return to neutral. I have tried the following

1. Tightening and loosening the cables to vary the tension and see if it works

2. Loosening the idler bar to ensure that it is not binding

But despite these there was no improvement. Could you take a look a the video and see if you can spot that is causing the issue

Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 19/06/2017 11:57:25

Engine Doctor19/06/2017 14:45:10
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1949 forum posts
19 photos

If the nylon horn is the servo horn then it looks like the servo is not centering. What servo are you using ?

Manish Chandrayan19/06/2017 15:01:05
408 forum posts
56 photos

The crank that sticks out of the fuse bottom is 2mm G 10 sheet and runs on on brass tube bearing on 4mm bolt. The crank is operated by servo. The servo being used is KST 125 mg with 97 Oz torque

**LINK**

PeterF19/06/2017 20:58:50
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321 forum posts
546 photos
Manish,

I am with engine doctor on this one, the servo may not be centering properly. Is there any slop in the connection from servo arm to the crank, is the crank pivot sticky or very loose, is the crank in perfect alignment with the servo output arm. Is the crank pivot in line with the axis of the servo output arm. Is the position of the servo output to the crank sufficiently far from the pivot to get a full range of movement on the servo output arm. Finally, I am not sure that the servo is robust enough, it claims high torque, but it is still a mini servo the plane was designed to have one of these for each wing. Now you have one servo for both wings plus a complex multi stage scale rendition. I will check my servo specs.
PeterF19/06/2017 21:21:46
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321 forum posts
546 photos
My aileron servo is a Hitec HS-7955TG and running on 6.0V as my plane is set up for produces up to 333oz.in. of torque. I have also set the crank and output arm geometry to give maximum servo arm rotation which maximises leverage and minimises servo torque.
Manish Chandrayan21/06/2017 11:25:12
408 forum posts
56 photos
Posted by PeterF on 23/05/2016 22:04:36:

Here is a video of the ailerons all working very nicely if I may say so myself. The down going action is pretty close to full scale I believe, perhaps it does not quite return to neutral, but I can live with that. To try and make it return to neutral would require me to strip down th gear boxes and change the flats filed onto the shafts, and I am not planning on doing that now everything is so good. The up going movement is 2.5" which is 25% of full scale and the down going is about 3/4", which again is scale.

Peter

I see that even your ailerons do not return to neutral, what do you think is the cause? And if you do not fix that, will it not affect the flying?

PeterF21/06/2017 17:06:27
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321 forum posts
546 photos

I had not noticed that they were a tiny bit out. Will keep it in mind when I put it back together.

PeterF23/10/2017 20:29:16
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321 forum posts
546 photos

5 months since I last put some time into the Moth, partly due to work commitments and holidays and more recently a downturn at work and the offer of an early retirement package. I now have more time to put into getting this plane finished. To make a start I have covered the tail plane, elevators, fin and rudder.

I am covering with natural Solartex and that has gone on well. For the rib stitching I have used the products from "Scale Rib Stitch" of Canada (Click). This is a very thin and sticky tape with thread attached at intervals to the glued side. I have tapes with the threads at 1/2" and 3/4" spacing at 1/4 scale for 2" and 3" stitching pitch at full scale. The tapes are about 2" wide and you slit them down to the width you need, tease the backing layer off and glue them down over the ribs. A thin coating of ClearCoat is then applied to make sure that everything adheres well on the next step. For the tapes I am using Mick Reeves Models laser cut tapes (click) of the correct number of pinks per inch cut from natural Solartex. These get ironed down over the stitching and the ClearCoat holds everything together. The sheets of pinked tapes come with some wider tapes for finishing the circumference of the components.

Scale Rib Stitch tapesdsc05405.jpg

Mick Reeves Models pinked tapesdsc05410.jpg

Rib Stitching added plus ClearCoatdsc05414.jpg

Pinked tape added to ribsdsc05416.jpg

Close up of completed rib coveringdsc05417.jpg

Close up of edging tapedsc05423.jpg

Completed tail plane and elevatorsdsc05425.jpg

Manish Chandrayan24/10/2017 12:29:34
408 forum posts
56 photos

Looking nice, good to see you back on the build.

I used the same rib stitches but got them all in the same pitchsad

My pinked tapes and peri tapes were bought from pink-it as I found the serrated edges cleaner when compared to Mick's tapes

propogandhi10/12/2017 21:02:35
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356 forum posts
273 photos

Hi Peter.

I've been watching your progress for some time on and off and seen lots of great idea's that I'll carry across into my 1/4 Stampe restoration. But I was wondering, do you have a link for where you got the U/C from on your TM? I found the site 'falcon-aviation' but could not find the U/C nor the TM kit for that matter.

Regards,

 

prop

Edited By propogandhi on 10/12/2017 21:03:00

PeterF10/12/2017 21:16:40
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321 forum posts
546 photos

Prop,

The kit was from Falcon Models NOT Falcon Aviation. Unluckily, Falcon Models stopped trading some time ago.

I do not know if the Flair Models undercarriage kit is still available.

Peter.

cymaz10/12/2017 22:01:43
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7589 forum posts
981 photos

There was talk of Flair Models re-kitting some of its models. The website is still running with a number to contact the office.

propogandhi10/12/2017 22:10:53
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356 forum posts
273 photos

Hi gents,

Well that is a shame, and I've contacted Flair and they say they are no longer able to produce the U/C for the TM.

Does anybody have an U/C they want to sell?

prop.

bert baker10/12/2017 22:13:39
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1128 forum posts
232 photos

Or a drawing and some pics

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