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Indoor rubber powered plane parts

Can you suggest a UK supplier

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David Rivers12/01/2015 15:06:42
35 forum posts

I am building A Herr Engineering Fokker D-VII. I got this kit part built from a friend and the propeller is missing together with the bearing and prop shaft. Can anyone suggest a UK supplier for the parts. My local model shop could not oblige. SIG Mnf in USA can supply but with large p and p cost.

Robin Etherton12/01/2015 15:11:29
298 forum posts
45 photos

Have you tried sams models?


Monz12/01/2015 15:21:27
550 forum posts
31 photos

Yup, SAMS will supply.

Nose bearing (C10 for just the bearing or C73 down the bottom of the page for a bearing, shaft and washers.): **LINK**

Or D2 for standalone prop shafts (best get a few as spares, or bend your own) here: **LINK**

And, for the prop, E5 for the 9.5" plastic prop, standalone, or E132 which has a prop, adjustable bearing, shaft, all ready to go, here: **LINK**

And get some lube while you're at it if you don't already have some, top of the page here: **LINK**

Shout if you need a hand, I've got a build thread of the same kit : 

Edited By Monz on 12/01/2015 15:23:34

David Rivers16/01/2015 17:30:11
35 forum posts

Thanks v much for the info. Will give SAMs a try.

I like the finish on your Herr plane, how did you achieve it? I am just going to cover with tissue and dope.

Monz16/01/2015 18:13:28
550 forum posts
31 photos

No prob David.

I used laser printed tissue finished with ezedope (which is horrible stuff, don't buy it). Standard tissue and dope is perfect. Just pin down the various bits while the dope dries to prevent warps, or use non shrinking dope (banana oil).

David Rivers22/01/2015 10:27:14
35 forum posts

I'm thinking of using lite span with balsaloc. Have you ever used it?

Monz22/01/2015 10:39:45
550 forum posts
31 photos
Posted by David Rivers on 22/01/2015 10:27:14:

I'm thinking of using lite span with balsaloc. Have you ever used it?

I haven't, so can't really offer advice on it.

John Muir22/01/2015 10:45:14
380 forum posts
1 photos

I've used Litespan. It is easy enough to use and more puncture resistant than tissue but imparts very little rigidity to the structure. I'd say tissue and dope would be by far the best choice for a small open frame model. If you can be bothered researching it, tissue over mylar might give the best of both worlds, but I've never used it myself.

David Rivers22/01/2015 11:44:14
35 forum posts

Thanks for the info. What worries me about dope and tissue is that it can warp the structure. Perhaps using thinned dope would reduce this?

John Muir22/01/2015 14:07:55
380 forum posts
1 photos

Absolutely. I used it diluted 50/50. As Monz said earlier, just pin parts down while they dry or use non shrinking dope once the tissue is good and taut. I've only really used my old stash of Modelspan and that can be tightened quite nicely by applying it damp or misting it with water once it's stuck to the frame. I don't know if this is as effective with currently available tissues. I like using tissue, the pong of dope takes me back.

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