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Here's how you build a fuselage and keep it straight without a jig

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Former Member24/01/2015 13:07:24

[This posting has been removed]

Old_Robin05/08/2015 15:34:27
28 forum posts
16 photos

Hi,

>I like this very helpful thread. Many thanks.>

I am in the process of building my Challenger. I thought the jig a complete waste. The alignment of the front end is very well served by the laser cut battery tray etc. >>

Incidentally. one old stager told me to remove char from all the laser-cut joints for better glue penetration and adhesion, which isn’t in the instructions. Agree?>>

In the factory RTF build clearly the sides are single pieces of balsa. Since these will not fit in the box they have introduced a dove-tail joint and the alignment of the back end depends almost entirely on the fit and gluing of this. Mine were quite loose and despite care I have a smidge of misalignment, but acceptable. If I have to make another oneI will do better.

>>dscn0728.jpg>>

My main gripe is this joint. The kit have two “doubler” pieces which glue on the inside of the sides. The fuselage is spanned by former F8 here and it is clear to me that they have not changed the design of this former in the kit so it is too wide by two thickness of balsa. F8 has to be trimmed or the fuselage has an unconvincing bulge!

>Also the fit of the jig was so tight in each of the formers is positively asking for damage removing it.>

But as my first laser-cut build I am having great fun with this kit.

Old_Robin

Rich too06/08/2015 06:44:19
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3060 forum posts
1070 photos
Posted by Jon Harper on 23/01/2015 08:53:59:

I am interested in this but can find zero information about these models. Perkins website has nothing, the sussex site has that one model listed but I cant find it by navigating the menus. Im also confused as its seems to be a challenger super sporter, which they do as an artf, and yet the quoted span is larger at 61 not 52? and yet the wing area is the same :\

Do they do any others in this range?

Google is your friend!

**LINK**

Phil May06/08/2015 07:18:31
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1520 forum posts
154 photos

I use a simple dowel pushed to holes in the formers on my correx builds....works a treat.

fuz & tail glued in place.jpg

Former Member06/08/2015 07:32:21
3577 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Old_Robin06/08/2015 16:57:01
28 forum posts
16 photos
Posted by Rich2 on 06/08/2015 06:44:19:
Posted by Jon Harper on 23/01/2015 08:53:59:

I am interested in this but can find zero information about these models. Perkins website has nothing, the sussex site has that one model listed but I cant find it by navigating the menus. Im also confused as its seems to be a challenger super sporter, which they do as an artf, and yet the quoted span is larger at 61 not 52? and yet the wing area is the same :\

Do they do any others in this range?

Google is your friend!

**LINK**

Rich. There has been a long running misprint in the data on this, the Seagull Challenger Sport LW. It is and always has been the same as the Seagull Challenger ARTF at 1340 mm which is 52 inch , nearly 53. It even has the wrong numbers in the instruction manual for the build! It is being "muddled" with the Boomerang I think. Bad word processing! This is the other "ATF" that has been kitted for a build too.

I am quite a way through the wings and enjoying it. Main design change I have done is to bury proper wing servos in the wing rather than having huge standard servos sticking out under the wing. All I have is a slot where the servo arm emerges. Pictures to follow...

 

Got mine through Hurricane Models. Thoroughly recommend them. Ordered one day and arrived at 10am the next! Many people offered the model but were out-of-stock...

Regards

Robin

 

 

 

Edited By Old_Robin on 06/08/2015 16:59:19

Old_Robin06/08/2015 17:00:20
28 forum posts
16 photos
Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 06/08/2015 07:32:21:

I have strived for years to convert everyone I meet to ARTF, then Seagull does this on me.

sad

Tom, Do you not like the smell of balsa sanding in the morning......?

Geoff S06/08/2015 17:18:57
3765 forum posts
36 photos

I also had some difficulty finding this model - and I even tried Facebook!

It looks very similar to the sports low winger I've recently built and converted to electric power - a Skyshark Fantasy. Both are a similar wingspan and intended for 40/46 power though the Fantasy is 60" ws and has swept back L/E with built in washout. Both look slightly old-fashioned with the upright engine out in the fresh air.

It's an interesting trend for an ARTF company to supply kits. It shouldn't be too hard to pack the parts they already cut into a box, print a set of plans and write some instructions so perhaps there will be more. We can only hope.

What power are the current builders intending?

Geoff

Former Member06/08/2015 19:28:33
3577 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Old_Robin07/08/2015 15:38:30
28 forum posts
16 photos

Geoff, In the April RCM&E in the article about the build David Ashby fitted a Overlander 3548/05 900Kv on a 13" x 6.5" prop, battery being 4S 3200-4000 mAh.

My pockets are a bit shallower for motors so i have gone Hobbyking Prodrive 3548 900. which was considerably less....still on a 4S 3200...which I have for other planes. Another few weeks and I will know how it flies....

Hope this helps with the decisions

Robin

Old_Robin15/08/2015 14:50:21
28 forum posts
16 photos

Final lap after 5 weeks..

dscn0784.jpg

with a big BUT. took several hours to get the root rib of each wing to match up to the recess in the side of the fuselage... rather unexpected problem. Profile cut in the side of the fuselage too small. Had to bevel the ends of the wings to match the recess. Be warned and check that W0, the root rib fits to the fuselage side before you get too far into the build. In my kit the "doublers" of the fuselage sides came ready glued together in the kit.

Maiden flight tomorrow after adding 180 grams of ballast around the nose....

Old_Robin16/08/2015 22:06:58
28 forum posts
16 photos

Well, survived the maiden, just. Instructions say 60mm from l.e. to c of g which is WRONG WRONG WRONG. Far too far forward. Should be much further back... another inaccuracy due to bad word processing by Seagull in the instructions...

dscn0792.jpg

jacks2.jpg

Will move the C of G back to the spar, about 75 mm for starters..

Robin

Erfolg17/08/2015 16:51:09
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11799 forum posts
1346 photos

The idea of a jigging tube I think goes a long way back.

I think that  "Ron Warring", in his book "Construction for Aeromodellers", described the technique using a stout cardboard tube. My copy is long gone. If not Ron, I would hazard a guess that Vic Smeed described the technique.

None the less, whoever it was, the description of a present day Laser cut kit using the idea is great to follow. I wonder if more kits using the technique will follow?

Edited By Erfolg on 17/08/2015 16:52:53

gangster26/08/2015 21:24:03
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1041 forum posts
29 photos

Nice kit

BUT ............. I am sure there will be a lot of people who buy it as a step from artf to self build and will be put off building for life, I guess a lot will not be finished.

If Seagull intend to move in this direction they will have to improve their documentation. I have been building from plans for half a century but this baby had me scratching my head a few times

A supposedly simply to build model has been turned into an "experienced " build by numerous ommissions in both plan and book.

On first glance that thick book and large plan look the finest ever seen in any kit shame the plans dont show all the parts and the bloke who wrote the fusalage section on the book went awol,before he finished it and wasnt replaced.

Shame because it lets down a great kit and the stuff that is in the book is in good english

I really hope this does not put anyone off having a go though cos all is not lost The RCM&E review clarifies some of the shortcomings and there are also some fantastic step by step instructions on you tube.

Have a go it looks a great model ( I am at the covering stage .)

Old_Robin31/08/2015 16:48:36
28 forum posts
16 photos

Gangster,

I couldn't agree more. The fus instructions only take you through the first half of the build and leave out the fitting of the turtle-deck sheeting, fus through-tube, and numerous other bits. No instruction at all about fitting and retaining the canopy hatch and the plastic bolts and small tabs for the underside of the hatch are not even in the parts list!

Anyone "stuck" with their build, I would be happy to advise how I coped.

I broke the fus with a tip-stall while turning crosswind leg to land and have just completed the repair.

CofG at 75mm was not far enough back so I have set it at 85mm and will fly when the weather improves.

I have checked for wing-warp carefully and I have none, so I wonder if they build in wash-out in the RTF version in the wings to reduce the tip-stall tendancy... anyway, keep flying reasonably fast on the way down and minimise the bank in turns near the ground.

Also it does need opposite rudder to come out of a spin or it just keeps on going. It comes out with just a prod of it, so be mentally ready to apply rudder.

It does look a treat in the air, but mine has been sledging along on its tail with lots of up elevator trimmed in to get it flying which is why I am moving the CofG. I also put in more down-thrust than specified on the motor if this helps.

Robin....

Edited By Old_Robin on 31/08/2015 16:52:39

Old_Robin31/08/2015 16:58:09
28 forum posts
16 photos

Picture of the under-wing without the "drop-tank" servos.dscn0791.jpg

gangster31/08/2015 19:00:12
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1041 forum posts
29 photos

Thanks for the heads up on the tip stall Robin. I wouldn't have been expecting that. I don't know if you have seen the Mojo vids on you tube gotta take my hat off to the guy whoafe then. I think I would have had to have built three of them to be ready to make that vid

gangster31/08/2015 19:00:13
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1041 forum posts
29 photos

Thanks for the heads up on the tip stall Robin. I wouldn't have been expecting that. I don't know if you have seen the Mojo vids on you tube gotta take my hat off to the guy whoafe then. I think I would have had to have built three of them to be ready to make that vid

Old_Robin05/07/2016 22:19:07
28 forum posts
16 photos

Now got the Challenger flying as I want! C of G should be on the wing joiner tube. Some forums posts say front of the wing joiner for "gentle" and mid-joiner tube for "fun". Now the 45 degree dive test and the change of elevator on level inverted flight tests both show I am getting there. I braved the final touch and spun it. Quite sudden kick into spin, and fast rotation, but came out as I centred everything... don't think I needed opposite rudder.

From being a poo of a model I think this may become a keeper! Amazing what a bit of concentrated trimming does to your impression of a model!

Former Member06/07/2016 06:56:14

[This posting has been removed]

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