|Phil 9||06/07/2016 07:12:44|
4287 forum posts
a similar idea can also be used for building wings
|28 forum posts|
While quite a good idea, the fun of fitting leading and trailing edges to this wing makes me wince.
I think a thick and strong base layer to your bench with a soft pin-surface is still the best bet, with spacer blocks for the LE and TE and even the ends of the spars if you want washout. I am not a believer in plate glass and I think significant minor warpage can easily be created during covering, so why be in anguish about the last 2 thou (that's 2 mils to you guys over there) during the gluing up of very flexible assemblies....
I keep hearing a song "....castles in the air...."
1901 forum posts
Personally never had any probs using a flat board pins and weights. for wings and fuselages
|Mike T||12/07/2016 01:20:09|
|435 forum posts|
Why a square tube, though? A round tube can be gently twisted to aid extraction. A sq. tube requires a straight pull and my luck would see a former or two getting cracked!
The move towards CNC kits is welcome though - I'd much prefer to put those lovely jigsaws together myself. Just think of all the KK Flying Scale models that would actually have flown, had they been CNC cut from balsa (not teak).
11556 forum posts
The requirement for drilled or punched holes is seen by myself as a potential issue. To avoid twists and good LE/TE alignment requires that these mandrel holes being reasonably accurately made.
This requirement may be slightly more difficult to achieve if the holes are not on the CL of the rib. This wood come into play where the top surface or lower surface of the wing is normally built flat, to the building board.
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