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Pulsar 3.2 electric glider.

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Martyn Johnston24/07/2015 11:28:10
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811 forum posts
249 photos

Just bought myself a 'beautiful' Pulsar 3.2 electric thermal soaring glider. Second hand and hardly flown. I've yet to fly it but the quality looks absolutely marvellous.

I'm surprised to see so little (ie no) discussion about this sort of glider on these here forums.

Surely someone else out there must fly these....

Piers Bowlan24/07/2015 11:36:22
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2001 forum posts
53 photos

Looks very graceful and relaxing to fly Martyn. Here is a video from uTube, Link. Maybe e-gliders have more appeal these days because of their self launching capability although I may be completely wrong on this. Have fun anyway.

Martyn Johnston25/08/2015 14:34:38
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811 forum posts
249 photos

I need some serious help from the 'Model Flying Technical Support' department.
I've bought this beautiful second-hand 3.2m thermal glider, in all good faith, from a bloke somewhere.
The motor is a Hacker A20 8XL with a 'Maxon' 4.4/1 gearbox; surprisingly small but remarkably powerful (and expensive). And the prop is a beautiful carbon 23" x 12".

At very low revs it runs well and sounds fine. At middle revs it runs as rough as a badger's arse, and at high revs it squeals in absolute pain.
With no prop on it's a little better but not much, it still rattles (a lot) at middle to high revs.
I could email the bloke who sold it to me but I've no doubt he'll says it was fine when he had it !

I've looked inside the gearbox and there don't seem to be anyteeth missing, but it's really, really tiny.

Who on this here Interweb could help?

Or who could I send it to to have a look and tell me what's wrong with it ?

What size prop would people recommend? The 23"x12" looks huge.

G194025/08/2015 14:54:03
3523 forum posts
1 photos

Not sure if this is relevant but we have a few F3a (aerobatic) pilots at Ashbourne and they also use Hacker motor/gear box combinations (bigger ones, obviously). I know one guy was complaining about a noisy gear box and returned it to Hacker for service/reoair. On return it was OK for a while but became noisy again. I don't if he resolved it but another F3a pilot said they're all noisy and need packing with lubricant (grease, I think).

So perhaps there's nothing wrong with it and it just needs packing with grease.

Geoff

Steve Houghton 125/08/2015 14:58:20
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1899 forum posts
128 photos

Hi Martyn. I fly electric thermal soarers, although I haven't had much opportunity this year as it's generally been far too windy.

I have two models, both balsa built from Hollein in Germany, the 2m Climaxx Compact which has an Atlas geared motor with built in ESC, and the 2.85m Thermal Instinct, which has a hacker motor fitted. Later this evening I'll take a look and see exactly which motor it is and what prop size.

PatMc25/08/2015 15:16:04
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4297 forum posts
524 photos

Hyperflight advertise the Pulsar 3.6, the same motor/GB you have as one of their recommended options but they specify a 17x9 prop on 3s lipo. **LINK**

Are you running on 3s or 2s ?

It might be wortwhile emailing Hyperflight for their advice.

PatMc25/08/2015 15:31:14
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4297 forum posts
524 photos

Just come across this at West London Model. Seems they advise a 23x12 prop so maybe the GB or motor need new bearings or the GB need re-lubricating.
Again an email or phone call might be the best bet for advice.

Martyn Johnston25/08/2015 15:49:22
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811 forum posts
249 photos

I've emailed Hyperflight but not got response yet. They're usually very knowledgeable about these things.

(NB: It's a 3 cell).

That one at WestLondonModels looks just like it. I don't want to spend another £112 though if I can help it.

It's 'Definately' not right, it's not just a grease thing. It squeals and then seazes up at full throttle. For future info, do you know what sort of grease it needs ?

PatMc25/08/2015 18:07:14
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4297 forum posts
524 photos

Sorry, I don't know what grease is suitable.

Also I made a mistake re the Pulsar 3.6 at Hyperlink, they recommend a Hacker A20 6XL not the 8XL. So the 23x12 is probably the right prop after all.
OTOH if you're not after all out competition performance it would be kinder on the motor, GB, ESC & battery to use a smaller prop but still have a personaly satisfactorily performing model.

Martyn Johnston09/09/2015 12:24:55
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811 forum posts
249 photos

I got NO support from Hacker at all, ie NO response to my web-form comment, and NO reply to my email.

Doesn't bode well for future purchases does it.

In the end I though I'd take it apart and see what happens. There were three magnets loose, so I simply glued them back in (I used CA, others recommend epoxy). And now it works prefectly, and extremely powerfully.

I also toned down the EPA adjustment on the throttle a bit, and bought a slightly smaller prop, a 20"x12", to reduce the strain on the motor a bit.  

Might actually get round to flying the thing soon.

 

Edited By Martyn Johnston on 09/09/2015 12:26:22

Paul McCaughey10/09/2015 16:35:48
110 forum posts
11 photos

Martyn, the motor magnets are likely lose through vibration or on the tape competition landings. epoxy is what they are stuck in with at the factory. keep an eye on them and inspect if any strange noises reappear.

The maxon gear box is decent enough if kept below 400w. Had the detail explained by our expert up here with regards another gearbox similar to maxon. Apparently the front bearings won't last long if consistently above 400w. If you have further problems drop me a msg and i will pass on details for you to contact him. He repairs/supplies motors gearboxes for thermal soarers in the competition scene.

The pulsar is a competition level model and if you check the new airframe price you will see why few are about in general circulation. They tend to stay in the hands of competition flyers who frequent more specialised forums. (barcs, esoaring, etc) Get some practice in and visit a comp. It's fun and one of the best challenges out there.

As for gearbox grease, I am sure those that need greased use the white lithium grease.

Martyn Johnston20/10/2015 09:19:53
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811 forum posts
249 photos

Flies beautifully. Really smooth and just doesn't want to come down.

Landing without crow would be difficult; it just keeps going and going.

Each panel looks perfect on its own but there is a slight twist somewhere because the left wing-tip is slightly above the flap, which is slightly above the right wing-tip. Needs looking at one day.

One concern I have is that there is no switch; you make all the battery connections before screwing the nose cone on. So you cannot turn it 'off' between flights. Has anyone got any suggestions about a switch? They only ever seem to switch the ESC connection, not the power line but I'm not sure what's best. Anybody used anything like this 'Zepsus' switch (link here) ?

Dickw20/10/2015 10:33:16
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563 forum posts
79 photos

Magnetic switches like that are fairly common in F5B competiton electric gliders and seem to work well, although I still use a conventional switch in mine.

The motor power circuit is usually too high a current for any regular switch to handle, so electric planes with a switch just use it to switch the Rx power supply (e.g. separate battery, or the red wire between ESC and Rx if using the BEC). When doing this you need to treat the plane as "live and dangerous" as long as the main battery is connected even if the Rx is turned off.

Dick

MaxG20/10/2015 13:22:15
160 forum posts
3 photos

Not really a switch as such but you could (should?) put the throttle hold function, set at shut throttle, on the program for the model. Then when you turn on the Tx switch this function on before connecting up the model. Then if you accidentally nudge the throttle the motor does not spring to life.

Not as good as air between contacts on the power line I agree but an additional safeguard.

HTH

Maxg

FilmBuff03/07/2019 13:12:20
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256 forum posts
28 photos

Old thread I know - but I have just bought one of these second hand.

Looks absolutely gorgeous!

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