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Highside Glider

Design by Lindsay Todd

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Paul Hampshire10/11/2017 10:50:46
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30 forum posts
27 photos

Hi Two Six. If I can help in any way then please feel free to ask away. I'm no expert and lack a lot pf balsa building knowledge but its always helpful to chat with someone who has been there and had to overcome the same problems. Its a real pity that the model doesn't come with a decent set of build Instructions. This would make this a great model for the wider market. I know a certain level of building experience is required for a plan build model but how can you get the experience first. I love the kit but have enjoyed it a whole lot more with a pragmatic step by step build instructions. That's the reason why I started taking pictures as I went along to try and help others or to get some feed back from others how they have done it...........

Two Six10/11/2017 11:05:43
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23 forum posts
2 photos

Reading you blog now, I can't see the pictures for some reason. The wing seat bit....I hope I haven't messed up already. I have glued the two halves together and did nothing special.

 

Actually I can see them using Chrome.  Waterfox isn't showing them....

 

Great blog!  This will be super-Helpful  I am doing a blog too:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:06:09

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:07:30

Edited By Two Six on 10/11/2017 11:17:43

Paul Hampshire13/11/2017 15:36:15
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30 forum posts
27 photos

Build almost complete:

To see the build develop from the start

Paul Hampshire21/11/2017 10:08:35
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30 forum posts
27 photos

Now covered and virtually ready to go.

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 21/11/2017 11:29:20

Paul Hampshire27/11/2017 10:04:30
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30 forum posts
27 photos

The maiden flight of my Highside glider at Cissbury Ring in West Sussex

 

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:05:38

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:08:33

Edited By Paul Hampshire on 27/11/2017 10:09:01

Two Six27/11/2017 11:36:19
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23 forum posts
2 photos

That's great that is! Well done!

It flies really well and it looks like it makes the most of moderate lift and has a nice flat glide.

I have started building a wing now and so far so good, it all looks OK. Hopefully I won't mess it up.

I need to have a talk with you about how to proceed with the balsa wing sheeting, the wing tips, the dowels and the wing fastening bolt before I can proceed much more. I will try to PM you.

I might build the canopy part before I do the wing tips as I am not sure how much wood I have to make the wing tips with. I like the idea of solid wing tips and I can't see how the plan wants me to do them.

I really hope mine flies like your one does. With a big helping of luck it might just work....

Two Six28/11/2017 15:24:52
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23 forum posts
2 photos

I have updated my build blog now Paul, you can see where I am with my build.

I have a few questions there about a few things I am not too sure about. Things like, the sheeting, the wing joining, fixing it to the fuselage, and the wing tips.....

Any tips or comments would be very helpful.

My build blog is here: http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

Paul Hampshire18/12/2017 09:15:53
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30 forum posts
27 photos

Having flown my Highside glider now on three occasions now, I feel I can comment on its performance with a little more knowledge.

Its second flight was in light conditions. One of those days that you have to fly the model with the least input to try and maintain the little height you have gained. Making every turn as gentle as possible but the Highside does lose out on its turns.

The third flight was in much better lift. The glider climbed well and with some height it could loop, roll well and just about maintain inverted flight. Its penetration wasn't too bad as my Highside is on the heavy side. Speed and energy retention isn't good but this must be expected given its size and wing profile.

My Highside has been nick named the Easybrick. Given its colour and performance. Some people can be so cruel!

I must say the model flies really well as long as you don't expect too much from her. She is very stable with no bad habits that I have noticed. Slows to nothing on landing. very responsive ailerons but a week elevator for aerobatics.

The joy for me was the building and the flying has been a very welcome addition. Mine will be accompanying me to the slope together with my F3F model and my M60.

If you are new to model building and want a challenge buy one of these gliders and you wont be disappointed if you can manage without a decent set of instructions.

I hope you enjoy my blog build. Click here to view

Two Six31/03/2018 18:44:07
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23 forum posts
2 photos

I have done a little more to my Highside now.

My build blog is updated here:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

Two Six28/05/2018 13:39:25
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23 forum posts
2 photos

I have added some new info on my build blog, here:

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=20650.0

Jeffrey Cottrell 225/10/2020 11:36:16
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Guys

Old thread, I know, but I hope there's someone lurking who can answer a question.

So, planning on this for my next build. Got the cnc and wood pack from SLEC and the pull out plan from the magazine. Also three build logs on tap.
Pretty much got everything clear in my mind except for how to do the leading edge. In his build log, Lindsay seem to indicate that the le is fitted first and planed down to the rib section, then the le sheet is fitted over it.
However the plan shows the sheet butted up to the rear edge of the le. In addition, the wood supplied by SLEC is only wide enough to do it this way.
Recall I saw this mentioned in another blog, where the builder replaced the sheet with wider stock.
Seems a lot of these models have been built, so how did you do it?

Thanks

Jeff

Lindsay Todd26/10/2020 13:27:32
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1764 forum posts
1826 photos

In the original as i was using stock sheet in the workshop and simply my own process of doing things, shaping the leading edge and then overlapping the sheeting would be my normal route however fitting the leading edge then butt gluing the sheet before blending works just as well and you should have no issues or strength implications. Highside has a tough old wing. Linds

Jeffrey Cottrell 226/10/2020 18:25:09
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Lindsay

Thanks for that. Nothing better than getting info direct from the designer.

In the same vein, what would you recommend as wing servos?

I have Emax ES09's available, but they seem a bit 'weedy' at 2.3Kg, or HS82's, bit better at 2.7, or 3.4 at 6v.

Your thoughts?

Jeff

Lindsay Todd27/10/2020 22:54:10
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1764 forum posts
1826 photos

hi jeff bit of a hitec man so HS85MG would always be my personal preference but i am sure there are others equal to them in truth but you tend to stick with what you know to be reliable and also what is on the worshop shelf at the time i find. I must get round to the Highside Extreme Plan at some point, much more aggressive design with fully symetrical section and big movements all good fun. Linds

Jeffrey Cottrell 229/10/2020 21:50:54
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Lindsay.

Thanks for that, Hitec it is then.

Jeff

Jeffrey Cottrell 230/10/2020 19:04:37
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Guys

Sorry to be a pain, but I'm having some issues with my Highside build, and I could use some help. I am using the SLEC cnc cut pack, which is pretty good quality overall.

So, to horse.

The wing is pretty much done. Just the sheeting to add, but I wonder if someone might have a picture of the rear centre section, where the wing bolt fits.
SLEC give two ply plates, spaced to fit between the rib extensions W1A, with 6mm holes in the middle. These are obviously designed to be laminated together and glued to the rib extensions. What is not clear is whether these plates are glued flush with the upper edge or the lower edge of W1A's.
I would guess flush with the upper edge. If they are glued to the lower edge that only leaves one glue joint holding the wing on. Not really in keeping with the strong build of the rest of the structure.
Anyway, some confirmation would be useful.

Main thing, though, is the fuselage, namely formers 2, 3 and 3A.

The instructions call for a strip of 6mm x 6mm to be glued in flush with the lower edge of the cockpit opening. Although not mentioned in Lindsay's build log, the plan also shows a strip of something glued under the wing seat.
SLEC include a mystery length of 6mm x 3mm in their pack, and I assume that goes in here.
Former 2 includes a notch for this. However former 3a has two notches at the bottom, spaced to go over the under wing strips, but the notches are 6mm x 6mm. Also has nothing where it goes over the under canopy strip. Easy enough the cut notches for this, if that's what's intended.
F3 is the real puzzle, in that it can be fitted two different ways.
This former has two 6mm x 6mm notches on one end. Going by the lettering on the plan, the former is designed to be fitted with these notches at the top, but I see no mention of any secondary longerons at the top, only on the bottom.
Fitting it this way up, there are two 6m x 3mm notches which line up with the underwing strip, but again nothing where it goes over the 6mm x 6mm under canopy strip.
In fact there could not be notches here. Where the centre of the former has been cut out, that leaves the edges only 6mm wide, so having notches here would cut the former into two halves.
Fitting it the other way up, gives the 6mm x 6mm notches at the bottom. I understand that the lower secondary longerons terminate at F3, not through it, no big issue, and the 6mm x 3mm notches fit exactly where the under canopy goes, but again 6mm x 3mm, not 6mm x 6mm.
Guess I could do some sort of a 'halving' joint in the longeron, (knew my 'O' level woodwork would come in useful) but would this sacrifice too much strength?

Sorry to go on at such length, but this is my first purpose built slope soarer, and I know they need to be more robust than flat field, to withstand the rough and tumble involved.
Far rather ask the questions first, rather than guess at a solution.

Thanks

Jeff

Lindsay Todd30/10/2020 23:46:24
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1764 forum posts
1826 photos

Hi Jeff, its been a few years since i designed this one but will try my best and of course the prototype was not from the slec cnc kit, that came later however will try my best to help, although any other builders please chip in.

it might be easier if you can post some photos to help identify issues you are having identifying the way forward.

From memory the rear wing ply plate sits flush with the underside of the wing and then has balsa block infill, then the second ply plate on top before sheeting such that the wing bolt does not crush into the surface. I sometimes wish they did not pre cut the six mm clearance hole as it makes alignment so much more critical that just drilling through later straight through and into the captive nut plate below. he photo below shows the infill which is sitting on top of the first ply plate.

s2940001.jpg

6 mm x3mm strip is glued flush to the wing seat internal faces for added strength to the wing seat area as cab be seen in photo below

s2990002.jpg

regarding F3, the only photo i have is the prototype however the cnc version should have 6mm square cut outs to clear the top longerons yet to be glued here on the right hand side identified by the black line

s2800005.jpg

i hope that helps a bit for you. Linds

Jeffrey Cottrell 231/10/2020 10:36:36
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Lindsay

Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
Also apologies for my previous post being a bit 'wordy'. They say a picture paints a thousand words. I decided to go with the thousand word option and ended up reading like War and Peace.

So I have added a picture, hope this helpsdscn0003#1.jpg

The formers in the picture match those on the plan, and orientated the same way. F2 has two notches, one 6 x 6 and the other 6 x 3. These line up with the strips at the canopy join and also below the wing seat. All good.
Former F3 has 6 x 6 notches at the top, as does F3A, which would seem to indicate that there are secondary longerons fitted to the top of the fuz, same as the bottom.
Not mentioned in the build instructions, would these be a later addition?
Also, F3 has 6 x 3 notches just below centre, which line up with the underwing strips.
What concerns me most is that neither F3 or F3A have notches to go over the 6 x 6 strips along the canopy edge.
In fact F3 could not accomodate these strips, since the edges are only 6mm wide, so would mean cutting the former in half.
Appreciate the 6 x 6 canopy strip need to be full length to add strength where the canopy join is, so that's staying as is. Question is what do I do with the formers where they go over this strip?

Looking at the picture you posted of F3, you note that the cnc version would have 6 x 6 cut outs for the top secondary longerons. Yet another indication that these are fitted to the top of the fuz, not just the bottom. Could you confirm?
Main thing is, maybe the camera angle, but the under canopy strip looks like 6 x 3 not 6 x 6. This would be a problem if I deepened those notches to accomodate 6 x 6. As can be seen, that would cut right through the former edges and leave it in two halves.

So, that's the issues. All can be fixed but I'd rather talk to you first, see if I'm reading this right.

BTW, thanks for the picture of the wing bolt fixing. Much clearer idea now of how that goes.

Cheers

Jeff

Lindsay Todd31/10/2020 15:44:05
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1764 forum posts
1826 photos

Jeff, F3 sits behind the wing cut out so is not cut in half, F3a is the rear former to the canopy section so logerons are a but joint hence no cut outs see photo below

s2840006.jpg

hope that helps

Lindsay

Jeffrey Cottrell 231/10/2020 18:32:14
223 forum posts
39 photos

Hi Lindsay

Thanks, that helps a lot. Think it solves the mystery of F3A at least.
As your picture shows, F3a extends from the top of the cockpit longerons up to the top of the fuz. Measuring off the plan this should make it about 54mm high, about the same as the rear cabin former C3.
That's what's fooling me. The F3a supplied by SLEC is acually 89mm high.
I assumed that F3a extended below the cabin longerons and engaged with the underwing longerons.
The outline of the formers supplied matches those on the plan, so I guess an error must have crept in when they re-drew the plan for inclusion in the magazine.
No biggy, just have to cut F3a down to size.
Still leaves a question about F3.
The notches as supplied by SLEC are only 6 x 3. The width of the edge of F3 at this point is only 6mm wide, so if I deepen those notches to accomodate the wider longerons, that would effectively cut the former in half.

This should illustrate what I mean


dscn0002-001#1.jpg

I'm tempted to cut through the longeron to half its depth, forming a halving joint, but would this detract too much from the strength in this area?
Finally, on that same photo, your text says the cnc version will have 6 x 6 cut outs to 'clear the top longerons yet to be glued'.
Can you confirm for sure whether there should be internal secondary longerons fitted at the top of the fuz, same as at the bottom?

With your help, I'm slowly getting there.

Cheers

Jeff

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