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Just another Ballerina

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john stones 115/01/2016 15:04:03
11430 forum posts
1511 photos

Great building photo's and descriptions yes

Enjoy your day with the wife giftcocktail


McG 696915/01/2016 15:42:48
3138 forum posts
1191 photos

Have a nice day 'off', Chris

Enjoy the celebration cocktail & HHH BD to the LotH gift



BRU - BE / CTR Party Control

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator15/01/2016 23:43:16
15748 forum posts
1460 photos

Smashing work Chris - so neat I really do feel like a old bodger now!

I know what you mean about putting things like the pull through string in when you think of it. The number of times I've said to myself "I must remember to do X before a sheet the bottom - I'll do it later" and of course the inevitable happens I end up spending an hour wriggling and wiggling some bit that could have gone in within 5 secs - had I remembered!


Chris Barlow16/01/2016 16:07:35
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

Building briefly interrupted to celebrate the wife's 40th birthday...

vicky 40.jpg

Building will now recommence! laugh

Chris Barlow16/01/2016 20:22:40
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

After unpinning the first half wing from the board and checking the plan to make sure I hadn't missed anything I made a start on the second half.

First part was to cut and pin down all the 1/16 sheet and cap pieces.


These were pinned down and tack glued with cyano then I left them for 10 minutes to make some coffee.

When I returned the rib positions were marked on the edges of the sheet which was then unpinned, the rib positions transposed over to the opposite face and flipped over. The 1/16 "template" was then pinned down again but this time the leading edge lined up with the trailing edge and the trailing edge lined up with the leading edge, making sure R1 was still in line with the edge of the template. The marks for the rib positions were then joined with a straight edge.


The wing was then built exactly the same as the first half but opposite handed. I laid the first half in front of the second just to make sure. laugh


john stones 116/01/2016 21:19:05
11430 forum posts
1511 photos

I like how all your pegs line up and same colour pins, is that just for a photo shot ?

Bet your right untidy when no ones looking wink


Good blog as usual 10/10 yes

Chris Barlow16/01/2016 21:23:39
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

I hadn't noticed! Looks a bit OCD blush

Notice there's no photos of the floor? I'll take one later! surprise

Chris Barlow17/01/2016 12:48:17
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

Just for John S here's the workshop floor...


I need to get the sweeping brush out soon!

The wings were ready for joining so I set up a 2" prop with some balsa packers and a strip of angle


The wing was set up and dry fitted with the brace and packer in place as a trial run. I marked a line across the trailing edge and used a square to check that the trailing edge of the elevated wing lined up.


The brace, spars and R1's were then glued up and the wing reassembled and pinned/weighted down, finally checking everything was lined up before leaving it to set.



I prefer to leave off the remaining top sheeting for now so I can see that the brace is sufficiently glued and close fitted.

So whilst the wing was setting I did a few bits on the fuselage. The front turtle deck was cut to a close size then one edge on each side tack glued to the fuselage sides. The hole for the cockpit was marked using TLAR and cut on one side. The offcut was then used to mark and cut the other side. The balsa was then bent over the formers and marked to the centre line of the 1/4 sq stringer down the nose. The cut was made by firmly holding a 12" rule against the balsa whilst cutting with a scalpel. One side was then tack glued down then the other side was cut in a similar fashion. Final adjustment and fitting was done with 120 grit sandpaper to get a good joint.


At the rear of the cockpit where it meets F5 I cut a short piece of 1/4 triangle to match the curve of the former and glued. The rear of the cockpit sides were then glued and pinned to it.


I also cut the fillers between the rear stringers, realising the gaps are not as even as I'd like! All the fillers were cut and fitted then superphatic was brushed on the inside to be drawn into the joints between the fillers and stringers. The curves on the fillers will be filed and sanded in later.



I cut down some 1/2 sq balsa into triangular stock and braced out between F1 and F2 before I forget and glue on the bottom sheeting. surprise


Last job was to joint 2 pieces of medium 1/4 balsa for the tail plane ready for marking and cutting later today.

Former Member17/01/2016 13:10:24

[This posting has been removed]

AndyD17/01/2016 15:30:01
746 forum posts
519 photos

i like the workshop floor makes me feel at home.

john stones 117/01/2016 16:36:40
11430 forum posts
1511 photos

Those infills tie it all in nicely, not my favourite job building fuzzs


Chris Barlow17/01/2016 19:07:55
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

Using some transfer tape I drew a template of one half of the tail plane/elevator and transferred it to the jointed 1/4 sheets, then flipped it over about the center line and marked the other half. I did a little bit of shaping on the elevators tapering them down to 1/8th from the hinge line to the trailing edge then separated them by cutting along the hinge line. I made a joiner from piano wire and drilled the holes in the elevators. The piano wire was let into the leading edge of the elevators so it was flush.



I then hinges the rudder and elevators using these pinned hinges. I like them because they don't work against the servos like mylar hinges do.


Mylar hinges can be fitted by just cutting a slit with a scalpel but these hinges are a lot thicker and need an actual slot to push into. If you don't have one I recommend a hinge slotting tool!


The hinge center position is marked on the balsa then the dividing jig is placed on the edge and closed up, automatically centering on the balsa.


The forked tool is then used in the centering jig to start the slot. The jig pretty much keeps it parallel to the balsa but care should be taken not to let it drift off course.


The fork cuts the slot at the ends and leaves the center ready to be removed with the hooked gouge.


By inserting the gouge at the ends of the slot and levering the point towards the middle the remaining balsa can be removed to the full depth of the hinge.


The pinned hinge can then be inserted into the slot and the control surfaces trial fitted together.


The pin sticking out at 90 degrees from the hinge is pushed into the balsa along with one side of the hinge during final assembly so that it can't fall out during flight! Rudder and fin were also hinged. Tail plane and fin are now ready for covering before gluing the hinges in.


Chris Barlow17/01/2016 19:21:37
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

With the fuselage close to the sanding stage I don't want any dents in the wood so I set up the model stand to hold it whilst working on the snakes


The hole positions in the formers were transfered to the bottom of the fuselage and a 2' rule used to line them up and mark the exit position at the tail. The depth of the last hole in F10 was measured from the bottom of the fuze and also tranfered to the exit position. A slot was cut and then filed at an angle to suit the snakes position then both snakes fitted through the fuselage, adjusting the position of the hole to ensure the straightest run possible.


Finally some 20 minute epoxy was mixed up and the snake outers glued in position to the formers.


Whilst I had some epoxy mixed I also ran some around the T nuts for the engine mounts and into the plywood between them.


Whilst the epoxy dries I have taken the opportunity to make a coffee and update this blog! Next up, sheeting the underside of the fuselage and setting up servo mounts!

john stones 117/01/2016 19:29:23
11430 forum posts
1511 photos

He's building quicker than I can read crook


Craig Thomas17/01/2016 19:36:06
478 forum posts
161 photos
Looking great Chris. Very neat. 👌 Any advice on drilling the holes in the elevator half's for the joiner wire? The woods not all that thick.
Chris Barlow17/01/2016 19:44:14
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

I use a drill bit between my fingers & thumb and go carefully, checking the drill bit is square to the edge and face!

I also hold the balsa either side of the hole with my other hand between finger and thumb and "feel" the drill going through, adjusting the angle if needed.

Low pass Pete18/01/2016 06:46:16
252 forum posts
139 photos

I use any left over epoxy to fuel proof the lower areas of the tank bay during the build.. Less waste and saves fuel proof exercise later on.

cymaz18/01/2016 06:57:30
9172 forum posts
1179 photos
Posted by Low pass Pete on 18/01/2016 06:46:16:

I use any left over epoxy to fuel proof the lower areas of the tank bay during the build.. Less waste and saves fuel proof exercise later on.

+1 yes

john stones 119/01/2016 23:53:55
11430 forum posts
1511 photos

I see in your pics of the t/plane seat in the post showing the stringer infils, you cut as plan, later on it looks like you recut as the later mod ?

How you gonna get the elevators in through the fin fillets ? have you left the wire joiner unglued, cut a slot, or have you an ingenious method you're not sharing ?wink I like to glue the joiner whilst elevators are pinned down to ensure they're level and that's why I'm asking.


Chris Barlow20/01/2016 01:32:58
1904 forum posts
1308 photos

John. I'll probably fit the tail plane first with the joiner loose. fit the fin & fillets then glue in the hinges and joiner to the elevators, clamping some wood to the tailplane on each side of the fin to level the elevators, finally gluing in the rudder. Maybe. crook

I couldn't post an update last night as for some reason I couldn't upload any photos, just kept on getting connection to server timed out!

I added the center sheeting and rib caps with the wing pinned to the bench and supported on the 2" support. This prevents the sheeting inadvertently pulling and warping the wing as the glue dries.


The small balsa stripper is ideal for cutting up balsa scraps to make the rib caps


Whilst the sheeting was drying I added the cross grain sheeting to the fuselage


and installed the servos. I left the snake outers long so I had an option to install the servos in front or behind the F4 former. With the engine up front it appears at the moment that it may be heading towards nose heavy so I fitted the servos behind f4.


The servos are mounted on a couple of 3/8 x 1/4 spruce let into 1/8 doublers glued to the fuselage sides.


As just mentioned to get an idea of balance the tank and engine were fitted and after fuel proofing the inside of the tank area the bottom of the nose was sheeted with 1/8th hard balsa



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