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Warbird Replicas Ju88 Night Fighter build

Build of the pre production kits from Warbird Replicas UK

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Ady Hayward20/03/2016 21:37:34
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi Folks. Me again
Following the build of the Mk9 Spitfire from Warbird replicas UK, I have taken the plunge to carry out a Beta build of one their twin engine projects.
This one will be a Ju88-G6 Night Fighter built using a mix of ABS, Foam/ veneer and balsa/ plywood. At 74" wingspan it looks quite huge and will utilise the same motors as used in the Spitfire. It has a massive clear canopy which will suit those that like their scale detail and will use 6 channels for the primary flight controls and flaps/ undercarriage. A friend (ZeroG_RC) will also be building one and he intends to go to town on his build and having seen some of his models will enhance the model no end. Here are some pictures of the kit as it was found and ZeroG Has kindly provided a wide angle shot of his pack of bits which shows well how much stuff is crammed into the box.


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Ady Hayward20/03/2016 21:47:30
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Now started the build with the fuselage. The fuselage is very long requiring the front section to be spliced onto the rear fuselage side. When done the ply doublers are glued in place ensuring they fix along the lower part of the fuselage side leaving a small gap along the upper edge for the fuselage crutch to seat.

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Front side section glued on

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Ply doubler glued in place

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Kevin Fairgrieve20/03/2016 22:14:32
1685 forum posts
2989 photos



lightning 75922/03/2016 06:13:20
148 forum posts
10 photos

looking foreword to this build


mightypeesh22/03/2016 08:08:15
691 forum posts
898 photos

Looks good, keep it coming.

Cheers, Simon

Andy Meade22/03/2016 08:58:46
2789 forum posts
717 photos

Signed in for this one! I love the '88.

Danny Fenton22/03/2016 09:10:02
9789 forum posts
4561 photos

Should be interesting

Keiran Arnold22/03/2016 14:19:54
261 forum posts
20 photos

Hmm Converted to a JU88C4 and I think I might be waiting for this one.

Ady Hayward22/03/2016 15:13:01
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi again,

Continuing with the fuselage build and adding formers to the front and rear fuselage ply crutches. Ensure that the formers are perpendicular at all times otherwise the formers will not locate as intended into the slots in the fuselage side doublers and to this end I marked the former positions on to both fuselage sides.

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I decided to add the fuselage sides at this stage, and maybe should have added the lower square section longerons first. In the end it has made little difference but if the longerons are added first then they must be accurately placed or the formers will not fit when the fuselage sides are added to the crutch assembly. It would appear that the best method of assembly would be to fit the front crutch assembly first, then the main rear section as I found it a little tricky to get Former 2 in position. I clamped and taped the sides in position and left them weighted down on the bench for several hours for the PVA to set to ensure that the fuselage was straight and the main crutch was flat on the bench.


I then added the rear balsa fuselage doublers making sure that they matched the tailplane seat followed by the square section longerons again making sure that they seated fully in the slots and rear doublers.

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The final job of this section of build was to cut and fit the wing seating triangular sections to the fuselage sides. Again, it is debatable whether they could be fitted before the sides were added but in any case I used a razor saw to cut many slots around 2/3 of the thickness to enable the sectioned balsa to bend around the wing seating aperture. I made sure that PVA was pushed into the slots before they were glued in place and held with clamps or pins as needed. The whole was then left overnight to dry completely.




Edited By Ady Hayward on 22/03/2016 15:18:40

Jon - Laser Engines22/03/2016 23:05:00
5672 forum posts
272 photos

I need to get my hurricane done so I can shoot it down

Nice model though, I saw the prototype at Richards house when I collected some kits. I will keep an eye on your build, looks great so far

Ady Hayward24/03/2016 06:05:51
742 forum posts
1240 photos

That's not fair Jon Mine will only have wooden guns! LoL

Yesterdays work commenced with the former for locating the ABS nose sections.

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This former is glued to the forward end of the fuselage to give a firm seating for the ABS nose shell. I angled the edges slightly so that the shell will easily take form when it is finally glued in place. There needs to be a ½” overhang for the bottom fuselage sheeting.

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I commenced work on the tailplane whilst the glue was setting on the fuselage by fixing the leading and trailing edges followed at the end by the wingtips. The centre section joining tape which will be fixed using wbpu. The fin had the same treatment carried out

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Two short pieces of ½” triangular balsa were glued into the front upper corners of the forward fuselage so to have some extra meat there for when the corners are sanded down to conform to the ABS nose shell.

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The rear of the fuselage crutch needs to be cut at an angle to suit the shape of the tailplane leading edge when it is fitted in place.

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I then sanded down the top of the fuselage crutch to make sure that the top decking will seat correctly and then fixed both pieces of the top decking in place with PVA and held it in firm contact until the glue had set. A quick check of the fin/ tailplane fit was made validating the decking position.


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I then returned to the nose section and cut off the surplus plastic from the rear fuselage nose shell and carefully sanded the edges down until the faint cut line was reached. A test fit to the ply former showed it to be a good tight fit. I then glued the ABS shell in place using an ABS formulated adhesive and held it in place with masking tape.

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Edited By Ady Hayward on 24/03/2016 06:19:30

John Dennier24/03/2016 07:05:07
35 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Ady what a luxury to have a Ju88 kit to work with. I had to scratch build mine. I am intrigued by the build materials and concept. Are you planning to install retracts? How about propulsion, electric or ICE? From my experience I would advise a serious effort to keep the rear end light as there is not a lot of room to put ballast in the nose. Mine is powered by three 4S batteries (in parallel) all in the forward section under the canopy and they are accompanied by a lead weight . Mine is an A4 but with your Nachtjager you might have some additional space in the nose for ballast.

Looking ahead to flying I quickly discovered that despite having props running in opposite rotation there was serious yaw instability in the early phase of the take off roll. This necessitated a rudder gyro which can be switched off once airborne as once trimmed and the plane fly's fast and true. Landing is also pretty hot, probably because mine is a bit heavy due to my overbuilding a few areas.

Looking forward to seeing your results. I have some pics in one of my posts if you are interested.

Ady Hayward24/03/2016 10:37:58
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi John,

Many thanks. I am very glad that you have looked at this blog as it has shown where I have been somewhat remiss and have not stated the power system. This one is intended for electric power although there will be scope for using IC engines as well. I am using the manufacturers specified motors here: **LINK** These turn the Dynam 3 blade props 13x7 and look very scale like. The motors have their own 4 cell 3000+ MAh Lipos that are placed behind each motor in the nacelles. There is a detachable front section of the nose moulding to allow fitment of a larger lipo in the fuselage if desired. I have no idea of the flying weight of this one but I am hoping for less than around 3.5Kg 7.5lbs. The prototype did not show any vices but we will have to see when the maiden comes around. Please feel free to add your pics here to show different ideas.


zeroG_RC26/03/2016 15:04:53
2 forum posts

Hello From Me smiley

I just thought id pop in and let you know I'm not just a figment of Adrian's imagination
So far Adrian is ahead of me in this build as he is an incredibly fast builder. I tend to be much slower! I haven't posted any pictures or thoughts yet simply because Adrian is ahead of me and pretty much covered all I could say or show. This is a pretty straight forward build and considering the fact its a pre production kit with no instructions and no indication for things like battery placement, servo placement etc is going together very nicely. For my pennies worth after a conversation with Adrian, I decided that I'm going to put the rudder and elevator servos in the tail so I can hide the linkages to keep a more scale appearance. I suspect the production kit will be using snake/pushrods with the servos in a more traditional place like under the wing seat for ease of access, and as I will be posting pictures as I go along with these little alterations it will serve as a "ready made guide" for those who wish to do the same. I have chosen this route because I intend to do most of my hard work after the bulk of the model is finished. I will be adding as much scale detail as I can possibly manage. That is where I come in on the blog later on . I hope this makes sense, this is the first time I have posted properly on a build blog (except for the odd question on other peoples!).
See You soon


Edited By zeroG_RC on 26/03/2016 15:07:24

Edited By zeroG_RC on 26/03/2016 15:08:04

Ady Hayward27/03/2016 17:46:04
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi Folks and Happy Easter to you all.

Many thanks Paul and I will be looking forwards to your detail work.

The build has been progressing with work done on the fuselage, wings and control surfaces. I started with the wing and bored a hole of around 1/2" diameter from the root to the nacelle centre line some 4" (100mm) rearwards of the leading edge. This will be used for the wiring needing to go to the motor, servos etc. and its position marked on the wing surface. Unfortunately the tube I had was only just long enough to reach the nacelle but it will be suggested for the future production (Should it go ahead) to have a hole through the entire wing. The wing halves were joined together with 15 minute epoxy and left to set ensuring the panels were symmetrical to each other.

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I then turned on to the leading edges and glued the centre section leading edge in place so it bridges the centre break adding to the overall strength in that area. One the PVA (Aliphatic resin) had set I then chamfered the ends to match the outer panel and glued the outer leading edge section in place.

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I decided to leave the leading edge in one piece as the slight change in angle of the outboard section is easily accommodated by bending the wood and taping it down well. The adhesive was spread liberally as both the foam and balsa will absorb some of the adhesive but not so much as it would ooze out everywhere. The same was repeated for the other leading edge.

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I then did the same with the trailing edge but had a simple overlapping join at the centre. Like the leading edge the changes in wing taper were taken care of by use of lots of masking tape pulling the leading/ trailing edges in firm in place.

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Edited By Ady Hayward on 27/03/2016 17:46:36

Edited By Ady Hayward on 27/03/2016 18:17:06

Ady Hayward27/03/2016 18:04:43
742 forum posts
1240 photos


Following swiftly after, I turned my attentions to the control surfaces which need leading edges attaching. This was a simple job where I simply glued each one in place on the strip of leading edge balsa supplied. Again plenty of tape was used to hold them in good contact with the balsa.

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Finally I assembled the engine mount frames. These are nicely cut by laser and all parts fitted well. I took the trouble to remove the burned wood from the scorched edges so that the adhesive has the best surface to hold well. The frames are handed so care must be taken to ensure that they are built as left and right assemblies.

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The leading edge profiles on each plate end either at the bulkhead (Inboard section) or stands off by around 1/2" (12.5mm) which is the outboard section. Now on to sanding everything on the wings and tail to shape crook


Ady Hayward28/03/2016 23:06:26
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi All,

Getting on towards the interesting bits now. All of the control surfaces have been sanded to shape and have been set aside for later. I have decided to fit the engine/ motor mounts as it seems about the right time in the build.

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On the prototype these were simply glued into place onto the veneer and locked to the wing by a plate located behind the top mount bulkhead to another plate let into the wing running span-wise so that the mount is anchored in place. Simple but effective. At this time I have just glued the mounts in place as the motors show.


Jon - Laser Engines29/03/2016 10:44:11
5672 forum posts
272 photos

Looking really smart.

I think i will be done first, but i need the extra time to climb to altitude so i can bounce you


Ady Hayward29/03/2016 17:38:38
742 forum posts
1240 photos

Hi Jon,

That is looking really sweet and I like the built up tail feathers. It really adds to the scale looks. Jeeeez! How much paint are you going to put on it then LoL

Robert Parker29/03/2016 18:29:33
1030 forum posts
1446 photos

Hi Ady / ZeroG,

Just caught the thread, now watching with interest, I'm enjoying the build/s so far.



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