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WOT4 XL Tailplane

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Kim Taylor18/05/2016 18:56:04
299 forum posts
55 photos

Hi to all

I'm currently building (assembling) a WOT4 XL, as per the thread title.

I'm currently looking at the tailplane fixing stage. The destructions specify the use of epoxy to fix the tailplane, which is shown located in an open ended slot, meaning the tailplane itself is slid into position from the back of the fuselage.

On my kit, the slots for the tailplane are letterbox type (i.e. not an open end).

If I try to use epoxy, all that will happen is that it'll get smeared all over my shiny covering as I push the tailplane through from one side to the other.

What do you think would be the most appropriate method of glueing the tailplane? I was thinking of locating the tailplane, then wicking in some cyano on each of the four 'bearing' surfaces. Or maybe there's something more suitable?

On a wider note, would it really be too much to ask for the instructions to match the reality of the kit, rather than leaving it to the hapless builder to make their own method up? There must be at least half a dozen discrepancies on this kit, the major ones being the above, and the firewall not being fitted with captive nuts (as per the book of words), As it happens, this does me a favour, but the principle stands, once you start having to drill, modify and 'do your own thing' it ceases to be ARTF.

Rant over!devil

Kim

Jon - Laser Engines18/05/2016 19:17:40
5101 forum posts
219 photos

I had the same issue so I put it in, used cyano on the bottom and thinned epoxy on the top. Its not come off yet!

ChrisB18/05/2016 19:25:39
1220 forum posts
34 photos

Personally I'd avoid cyano as it tends to make the wood brittle. I used epoxy. I smeared thin 24hr epoxy on the 4 'mounting' points and then cleaned any excess off with meths.

Kim Taylor18/05/2016 20:43:19
299 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by ChrisB on 18/05/2016 19:25:39:

Personally I'd avoid cyano as it tends to make the wood brittle. I used epoxy. I smeared thin 24hr epoxy on the 4 'mounting' points and then cleaned any excess off with meths.

Chris - I hear what you're saying, but in this situation, I don't see that there will be enough (any?) glue left on the structure where it needs to be once the tailplane is pushed into place.

Kim

Kim Taylor18/05/2016 20:50:50
299 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 18/05/2016 19:17:40:

I had the same issue so I put it in, used cyano on the bottom and thinned epoxy on the top. Its not come off yet!

Thanks Jon

On balance, I think I'll go with this. I'll also try to get a fillet of epoxy on the inner fus wall / tailplane joint via the slot the fin goes in to. The fin will also glue to the centre of the tailplane within the structure, which will add strength (once I've modded the fin, so that it's the right size - another error in the kit which has been there since the year dot!!)

Kim

cymaz18/05/2016 21:12:48
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8926 forum posts
1180 photos

I don't have a Wot XL. Would it not be possible to use Robart pin hinges??

Norrland18/05/2016 21:34:44
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31 forum posts
41 photos

Hi Kim,

What I have done in similar cases is to insert the tail plane into the slot and position it correctly. Put masking tape on the tail plane a few millimeters outside the joints. Apply some thin epoxy to the four joints and work the epoxy into the joints by moving it slightly sideways. Add more epoxy if needed. Check the tail plane for correct alignment. Wipe off the excess epoxy, remove the masking tape and, if needed, clean up with some methylated spirit. Worked for me this far.

I assume you have removed the covering on the tail plane where it should be joined with the fuselage.

Edited By Norrland on 18/05/2016 21:37:30

Tim Flyer18/05/2016 22:13:39
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1175 forum posts
222 photos

Norrland has it exactly... Slide it in first then work epoxy in by sliding it ...I have built 3 WOT 4 XLs... and thats how I did it. If you are using a Nitro /Petrol engine I would far prefer Epoxy as it is less brittle than cyano which dries hard but can be susceptible to cracks which can let in fuel residue/oil. Cyano is not as fuel resistant as epoxy either..

Make sure you internally reinforce the wheel fixings in the fuselage too. I first remove the blind nuts then reinforce it with fibreglass tape and epoxy.

I hope you enjoy flying it... mine was great!

Kim Taylor19/05/2016 10:04:46
299 forum posts
55 photos

Thanks for all the feedback and advice - I appreciate it.

In answer to the various points raised, yes I have trimmed the covering away from the areas to be glued.

The model is to be electric powered, but I take on board the point regarding the nature of a cyano joint, so I will get some thin epoxy and work / wick this into the joint. You never know, I may yet decide to go back to glow at a future date (returning to the hobby after a 30 year break - where did that time go!!)

Kim

Bob Cotsford19/05/2016 10:17:04
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8152 forum posts
449 photos

I've used Norrland's method using both epoxy and PVA on various models. You can also add a wash of glue through the fin slot to form a fillet on the inside iirc.

Kim Taylor19/05/2016 10:43:42
299 forum posts
55 photos
Posted by Bob Cotsford on 19/05/2016 10:17:04:

You can also add a wash of glue through the fin slot to form a fillet on the inside iirc.

Yes, I was going to try to do this as well.

Also, forgot to say earlier, I've already been told about reinforcing the u/c plate - I've got some fibreglass tissue on hand, and I'll use some epoxy to hold it all together.

Kim

Edited By Kim Taylor on 19/05/2016 10:44:42

Tim Flyer29/06/2017 12:48:51
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1175 forum posts
222 photos

A question for Wot 4 XL enthusiasts. Is anybody using tail mounted servos?

I am considering either those or snakes as I don't like the pushrod method.

On previous Wot 4 XLs the rod resonated badly at certain throttle settings when using my trusty old OS120ax. It's going to be a tug plane so the over powering is useful.

cymaz29/06/2017 12:55:41
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8926 forum posts
1180 photos

Yes, I did. Works well. I did a build blog on the forum. Here's a picture or two

 

elevator servo.jpg

elevator.jpg

Edited By cymaz on 29/06/2017 12:56:15

Tim Flyer29/06/2017 13:14:54
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1175 forum posts
222 photos

Cheers Cymaz very useful . Will do the same I think , just like I used on Wot4xl . Will take a good look

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 29/06/2017 13:16:59

cymaz29/06/2017 13:17:07
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8926 forum posts
1180 photos

Yes, wanted to use 2, the fuselage was too narrow for the Hitecs to sit opposite. I did a build blog and was disgusted about the poor assembly of the elevator push rod and hardware in general face 8

Edited By cymaz on 29/06/2017 13:18:26

Martin Harris29/06/2017 13:35:19
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9107 forum posts
225 photos

If you do manage to get epoxy on the covering, simply use a cloth dampened in methylated spirits to clean it off (before it dries!!!).

Mark a29/06/2017 13:53:34
321 forum posts
3 photos

Another point is to make sure when you put the fin in that it touches the tail plane and is glued in securely. One or two have come loose mine did spotted it before flying it.

cymaz29/06/2017 14:24:54
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8926 forum posts
1180 photos

tail tin.jpg

 

tail slot.jpg

I added a fillet of balsa to the bottom of the fin. Epoxied in the cocktail sticks and these went through the horizontal stabiliser into the rear of the fus....that won't fall out.

Edited By cymaz on 29/06/2017 14:28:18

Tim Flyer29/06/2017 15:23:21
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1175 forum posts
222 photos

Good very helpful tips chaps Thank You😊. My old Wot4xl was a lovely plane to fly but sounded like a rattle on low/intermediate throttle as the single old school pushrod was quite near the internal fuselage formers and it would start resonating 😊. I will make some little carbon pushrods and put servos on each side having 2 servos Should reduce risk of elevator fail too. I will do the tail fillet too if needed. I will certainly bin most of the hardware too.

cymaz29/06/2017 16:03:21
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8926 forum posts
1180 photos
Posted by Timothy Harris 1 on 29/06/2017 15:23:21:

I will do the tail fillet too if needed. I will certainly bin most of the hardware too.

I think you might, on both... smiley

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