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Wot4 XL artf Build

Yes, another one

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cymaz25/07/2016 18:48:35
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

So, following on from my Wot4 XL servo placement question, I thought that I had do a proper build thread.

Anyone interested???????

All the bits have been ordered...just waiting for them all to arrive. Just had a quick email from Kings Lynn Models telling me they are having stock at the end of the week.

So far, I've been hunting through all my bits and pieces to find bolts, clevises, and salvaging all the pushrods and anything else of use from the death of the Giles.

I did manage to find a very useful engine mount. I can't think where I got it from but there are theaded fixing holes in the beams that are a perfect match for the Evo 20gx2.

The picture shows my old non pumped 20gx Pitts muffler that survived the crash.



Edited By cymaz on 25/07/2016 18:51:19

cymaz29/07/2016 18:43:22
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

The plane and eninge arrived today. A quick glance over the Wot and all looks OK. The aileron push rods seem a good size, not measured them yet but they look about 3mm...could be US thread though. Covering was excellent. Tail wheel and engine mount will be consigned to the back of the parts box. I will get a 2 3/4" spinner. I can now sort out what batteries to have.

The Evo 20gx2 is a jewel of and engine. I have offered up the old engine and Pitts muffler too the fire wall and looks a good fit.

Rich too29/07/2016 18:49:30
3060 forum posts
1070 photos

yes subscribed

BackinBlack29/07/2016 20:00:22
118 forum posts
1 photos
Posted by Rich2 on 29/07/2016 18:49:30:

yes subscribed

Me too

iqon29/07/2016 20:27:15
1481 forum posts
239 photos

Watching with interest. !!!smiley

cymaz31/07/2016 10:38:30
9179 forum posts
1180 photos


The boxes arrived Friday, so once again Kings Lynn Models are true to their word and so is the courier. Flying all day Saturday so it wasn't until Sunday that i could check everything out.

The engine is a jewel....perfect.

The Wot has a few issues. The covering is good, no winkles. There are a few loose edges around the bulkhead where they have been really mean with the width of the seams. Packaging was excellent.

However the hardware is woeful. Well its not hardware, it just stops the cowl from moving around. Let me show you...

I gave the elevator push rod a tug to see if it was glued. It wasn't. There was one single drop on the dowel. The heat shrink tubing was keeping them in. The pushrods need replacing with m3, reglued and recovered. Or simply have rear mounted servos.

elevator pushrod.jpg

The pushrod horns have too much flex. Throw away and get decent ones. I will use my old Giles horns.


Don't forget to mark the ailerons and servo hatch on the wing. There is a ply plate doubler on the aileron for the horn to sit on.

wing markings.jpg

There is a decent incidence peg at the TE. The wing join slot is a fraction bigger that the wooden plate that slides into it. The plate is very strong made of decent wood. Its a little on the short side but this means plenty of epoxy will be able to get all around and really wet the joint out.


The bulk head ( pictured on its side) is not fuel proofed. It is 100mm wide and 110mm high. My engine mounts are 70mmx63mm. There is plenty of room on the firewall. There is so large triangle bracing inside the tank bay. We will see if the captive nuts foul this. Anyhow the inside of the bulk head and the outer face will get a good soak of epoxy.


Throttle cable looks OK, Z bend one end and plenty of length. Spinner,wheels and axles, tailwheel and closed loop wire will all be thrown away. I have yet to look at the closed loop fittings.

So far 6/10....generous

cymaz31/07/2016 12:59:31
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Just had a look at mounting the engine. The firewall lines intersect over the hole. I assume that is where Foss wants the centre of the cranksahft. So haw do I overcome that???? Me has brain wave.

I have some coffee stir sticks that came from McD's. I glued these onto the centre lines of the engine bearers and engine crankcase with a bad of CA.

engine marker.jpg

Cut them to length

engine marker (2).jpg

Line them up the the firewall marks

engine on wall.jpg

lightly tapped a wood bit through the mounting holes to mark the bolt positions

Put some tape over the firewall hole

x lines.jpg

That will do !







Cut them to length so the ends just touch the firewall

engine marker (2).jpg

Have I missed anything ????????

Edited By cymaz on 31/07/2016 13:01:31

trebor31/07/2016 13:29:59
1928 forum posts
216 photos

How does the prop shaft position look with the cowl centre hole ? By the way I hate the black paint don't know why they bother putting it on.

cymaz31/07/2016 14:06:56
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

TBH...I won't be putting the cowl on.

But for the purposes of photos will place it over.laughphoto

trebor31/07/2016 14:13:45
1928 forum posts
216 photos

laugh I've got 3 planes without cowls, my excuse is I'm leaving them off due to tuning yes

cymaz31/07/2016 14:17:17
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Ahahahaha smiley

Just measured the cowl. It is 150mm deep from edge to edge. The thrust washer is 138 mm from the firewall.

So you could have 13/14 mm over the nose. BTW the cowl won't go on, the cylinder gets in the way blush . So no photos

Edited By cymaz on 31/07/2016 14:18:12

Shaun Robinson 131/07/2016 20:51:04
18 forum posts

I'm interested 👍

Kim Taylor31/07/2016 22:48:27
307 forum posts
55 photos

Hi Cymaz,

I'm just finishing off one of these, electric powered.

My elevator pushrod had cotton or similar whipping around the end, reinforcing the wood to metal joint which yours seems to be missing. I was tempted to replace it with a carbon tube and may still do so if I'm unhappy with it in practice.

Mine had no ply reinforcing of the ailerons, but it would have been an improvement as they've crushed a bit.

Do you think any two of these kits is the same?wink I wonder, having looked at various build threads.

Anyway, I'll be following with interest.


Edited By Kim Taylor on 31/07/2016 22:49:40

cymaz01/08/2016 06:20:56
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

The same faults keep coming up! Trouble is, once you have put a bit of effort in to the build, they fly so damn well in all weathers.

After work, I will have a closer look at putting some rear servos in for the elevator and look at reinforcing the undercarriage plate area.

I will probably have to drill a hole through the engine mount for the throttle cable.

I did recover a new standard size Wot4 a few years back. Just as well I did. There were places that had been sanded down to almost nothing. They needed beefing up. The hardwood mounting point in the tail was far too small for the hole it was supposed to sit into.

cymaz01/08/2016 19:33:09
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Did a bit more tonight after work. Had a long hard think about the rear servo situation. I cut out the covering from the rear most two tail openings to see what was what. No problem as I have some gloss black covering.

I quickly realised that two servo simply wouldn't go in side by side. If I put another servo further back there would be too much play on a long push rod.

So its one servo and a tail joiner ( from a smaller Wot). The servo plate is 3mm ply faced with balsa to bring it up level with the fuselage sides.

elevator servo.jpg


Edited By cymaz on 01/08/2016 19:34:40

cymaz01/08/2016 19:38:42
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Before I glue the servo plate in I will face the horizontal stab slot top and bottom with some hard balsa. This will bridge the gap of the tail fin and give far more glue area.

The tail will be braced top and bottom with carbon rod.

cymaz02/08/2016 20:36:00
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Installed the port servo. I ran some extra thread into the wing just in case I need to run an extra wire in the future, for some bizarre reason. Also glued up the elevator joiner. Also installed the elevator servo. So far so good.

Kim Taylor02/08/2016 22:45:04
307 forum posts
55 photos

Hi Cymaz

Just for my own interest, did you open up the slot for the tailplane to the rear of the fuselage, or did it come like that?

Mine had a letter box style slot, i.e. closed fore and aft, not like yours (and the destruction booklet), which made it a pain to get the glue into the joint between the fuselage and tailplane without getting it all over the covering (and my fingers, ....................and trousers...........................and hair).

I've been doing mine for 2 - 3 months now and I reckon you'll be ready to fly before me. My excuse is my daughter having a baby - only been able to get to the flying field once since, the wife and I are spending so much time at daughters house. frown


cymaz02/08/2016 22:56:07
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

I took a saw to mine. It is a method of tail insertion used by Seagull on a few of their planes. It is a neater way of getting the epoxy into the fin join where it counts.

Im happy the way the rear servo has gone in. Hopefully photo photo Tomorrow

BTW , took a soldering iron to open up the holes in the film...never use a knife 

Edited By cymaz on 02/08/2016 22:57:38

cymaz03/08/2016 20:21:19
9179 forum posts
1180 photos

Tail servo. Really quite pleased with the result. Very positive movement and no slack

tail pushrod.jpg

Wing Servo. Likewise, good fit

wing pushrod.jpg

The push rods are roughed in at the moment. It will be all taken apart and CA fed into the holes to stiffen the balsa, bolts cut and trimmed then CA glue used as thread lock.

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